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I use iphone 14 pro for now. ?Just started doing more videos. ?I'm learning to edit them with LumaFusion on ipad. ?
I'm using concrete Home Depot bucket with gas pipe and 3D Printed articulating arm with Edelkrone FlexTILT head on it. ?Here is a little video overview i did of the setup
https://youtu.be/SVIpIAY98kc
?
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Re: Some questions on the Overhead Guard
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Re: Processing Rails & Stiles for Cabinet Doors: Trimming Rails and stiles to length
Jared,
That is fair response. I did start with bigger doors first. If a stile has a longer tear (beyond getting trimmed) it can be used for a shorter door.?
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Show quoted text
On Jan 5, 2025, at 8:47?AM, Jared Sankovich via groups.io <Sankovichj@...> wrote: ? I never glue up doors at their final size. They get trimmed to size/square after. Any tearout there gets cut off in the process.?
I used to fit them on my jointer. On Sun, Jan 5, 2025, 8:31 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Jared,
Yes, that was my original question and no one has really addressed that because their workflow does not include that step. The short version of responses is:
For stile, cut to length and then profile the long grain
For rail, cut to length, do cope and then do the long grain
You mentioned you run long pieces thru for long grain profile. I did the same with climb cut and PF and it was quick but with the thumbnail (qtr round) profile, I was getting occasional tear out when cutting to length. I solved it with inserting the counter profile piece but it took longer to trim rails and stiles to length with that method.
As I write this I probably would have gotten clean cut upside down with profile side being cut first. However, I can only do it on one side. Issue was chipout at the lower edge pointed to by the arrow when the grain was not straight.
How do you trim?
Imran Malik On Jan 5, 2025, at 8:07?AM, Jared Sankovich via <Sankovichj= [email protected]> wrote: ? I just realized I read your original post incorrectly. I thought ypu were getting tearout when coping the rails after sticking. As I read it again, it seems like the tearout issue you are having is when you are crosscutting at the saw?
On Sun, Jan 5, 2025, 7:39 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Thank you David. One thing I was too lazy to do was employ the tenoning plate. I had slight variation at the joint even though all pieces were milled upside down (actually required by the router bit set). It was easily sanded but I would definitely use the tenoning plate next time. On Jan 4, 2025, at 7:41?PM, David P. Best via <dbestworkshop= [email protected]> wrote: ? Imran,?
I employ the same workflow that Tom outlined.? I will often machine the linear profiles employing a backfence rather than against the shaper hood fence.? A few years ago I posted a series of videos demonstrating this workflow using a Freeborn cutter set similar to yours.? You can view the videos at this link: ?
|
David Best - via mobile phone?
?
Hi Imran,?
?
My method is to perform all of the cross-grain work prior to performing the linear work. So, when I'm producing stiles and rails for a window (for instance), my sequence is the following:
-- Perform counter-profile milling operation on rails
-- Perform slotting operation on stiles
-- Perform linear profiling work
-- I over-size my sashes so that I can take 1mm off each side after assembly?
?
The above operation ensures that any tear-out produced during the cross-grain operations will be removed by the linear operations. When I'm running the assembled sash through the shaper to remove the extra 1mm I'll feed a "chaser" board after the sash to prevent tear-out.?
?
For short parts it's optimal to use an outboard- or back- fence, rather than the hood fence plates.?
?
I hope this helps,?
?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
<image0.jpeg>
Re: Processing Rails & Stiles for Cabinet Doors: Trimming Rails and stiles to length
Final Squaring / sizing on a saw/shaper with an alternating shear rebate block works a lot better though.
On Sun, Jan 5, 2025, 8:47 AM Jared Sankovich via <Sankovichj= [email protected]> wrote: I never glue up doors at their final size. They get trimmed to size/square after. Any tearout there gets cut off in the process.?
I used to fit them on my jointer.
On Sun, Jan 5, 2025, 8:31 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Jared,
Yes, that was my original question and no one has really addressed that because their workflow does not include that step. The short version of responses is:
For stile, cut to length and then profile the long grain
For rail, cut to length, do cope and then do the long grain
You mentioned you run long pieces thru for long grain profile. I did the same with climb cut and PF and it was quick but with the thumbnail (qtr round) profile, I was getting occasional tear out when cutting to length. I solved it with inserting the counter profile piece but it took longer to trim rails and stiles to length with that method.
As I write this I probably would have gotten clean cut upside down with profile side being cut first. However, I can only do it on one side. Issue was chipout at the lower edge pointed to by the arrow when the grain was not straight.
How do you trim?
Imran Malik On Jan 5, 2025, at 8:07?AM, Jared Sankovich via <Sankovichj= [email protected]> wrote: ? I just realized I read your original post incorrectly. I thought ypu were getting tearout when coping the rails after sticking. As I read it again, it seems like the tearout issue you are having is when you are crosscutting at the saw?
On Sun, Jan 5, 2025, 7:39 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Thank you David. One thing I was too lazy to do was employ the tenoning plate. I had slight variation at the joint even though all pieces were milled upside down (actually required by the router bit set). It was easily sanded but I would definitely use the tenoning plate next time. On Jan 4, 2025, at 7:41?PM, David P. Best via <dbestworkshop= [email protected]> wrote: ? Imran,?
I employ the same workflow that Tom outlined.? I will often machine the linear profiles employing a backfence rather than against the shaper hood fence.? A few years ago I posted a series of videos demonstrating this workflow using a Freeborn cutter set similar to yours.? You can view the videos at this link: ?
|
David Best - via mobile phone?
?
Hi Imran,?
?
My method is to perform all of the cross-grain work prior to performing the linear work. So, when I'm producing stiles and rails for a window (for instance), my sequence is the following:
-- Perform counter-profile milling operation on rails
-- Perform slotting operation on stiles
-- Perform linear profiling work
-- I over-size my sashes so that I can take 1mm off each side after assembly?
?
The above operation ensures that any tear-out produced during the cross-grain operations will be removed by the linear operations. When I'm running the assembled sash through the shaper to remove the extra 1mm I'll feed a "chaser" board after the sash to prevent tear-out.?
?
For short parts it's optimal to use an outboard- or back- fence, rather than the hood fence plates.?
?
I hope this helps,?
?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
Re: Processing Rails & Stiles for Cabinet Doors: Trimming Rails and stiles to length
I never glue up doors at their final size. They get trimmed to size/square after. Any tearout there gets cut off in the process.?
I used to fit them on my jointer.
On Sun, Jan 5, 2025, 8:31 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Jared,
Yes, that was my original question and no one has really addressed that because their workflow does not include that step. The short version of responses is:
For stile, cut to length and then profile the long grain
For rail, cut to length, do cope and then do the long grain
You mentioned you run long pieces thru for long grain profile. I did the same with climb cut and PF and it was quick but with the thumbnail (qtr round) profile, I was getting occasional tear out when cutting to length. I solved it with inserting the counter profile piece but it took longer to trim rails and stiles to length with that method.
As I write this I probably would have gotten clean cut upside down with profile side being cut first. However, I can only do it on one side. Issue was chipout at the lower edge pointed to by the arrow when the grain was not straight.
How do you trim?
Imran Malik On Jan 5, 2025, at 8:07?AM, Jared Sankovich via <Sankovichj= [email protected]> wrote: ? I just realized I read your original post incorrectly. I thought ypu were getting tearout when coping the rails after sticking. As I read it again, it seems like the tearout issue you are having is when you are crosscutting at the saw?
On Sun, Jan 5, 2025, 7:39 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Thank you David. One thing I was too lazy to do was employ the tenoning plate. I had slight variation at the joint even though all pieces were milled upside down (actually required by the router bit set). It was easily sanded but I would definitely use the tenoning plate next time. On Jan 4, 2025, at 7:41?PM, David P. Best via <dbestworkshop= [email protected]> wrote: ? Imran,?
I employ the same workflow that Tom outlined.? I will often machine the linear profiles employing a backfence rather than against the shaper hood fence.? A few years ago I posted a series of videos demonstrating this workflow using a Freeborn cutter set similar to yours.? You can view the videos at this link: ?
|
David Best - via mobile phone?
?
Hi Imran,?
?
My method is to perform all of the cross-grain work prior to performing the linear work. So, when I'm producing stiles and rails for a window (for instance), my sequence is the following:
-- Perform counter-profile milling operation on rails
-- Perform slotting operation on stiles
-- Perform linear profiling work
-- I over-size my sashes so that I can take 1mm off each side after assembly?
?
The above operation ensures that any tear-out produced during the cross-grain operations will be removed by the linear operations. When I'm running the assembled sash through the shaper to remove the extra 1mm I'll feed a "chaser" board after the sash to prevent tear-out.?
?
For short parts it's optimal to use an outboard- or back- fence, rather than the hood fence plates.?
?
I hope this helps,?
?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
Re: Processing Rails & Stiles for Cabinet Doors: Trimming Rails and stiles to length
Thanks Bryce. Nice trick.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 5, 2025, at 8:09?AM, Bryce Comer via groups.io <bryce@...> wrote: ? Hi Imran,
When checking your doors for square, try using an offcut with a? small nail through one end. That will go on the inside of one corner, then mark on the stick the opposite corner. Change to the corner oppposite the first and check the mark. No measuring needed! :)
--
https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
|
Re: Processing Rails & Stiles for Cabinet Doors: Trimming Rails and stiles to length
Jared,
Yes, that was my original question and no one has really addressed that because their workflow does not include that step. The short version of responses is:
For stile, cut to length and then profile the long grain
For rail, cut to length, do cope and then do the long grain
You mentioned you run long pieces thru for long grain profile. I did the same with climb cut and PF and it was quick but with the thumbnail (qtr round) profile, I was getting occasional tear out when cutting to length. I solved it with inserting the counter profile piece but it took longer to trim rails and stiles to length with that method.
As I write this I probably would have gotten clean cut upside down with profile side being cut first. However, I can only do it on one side. Issue was chipout at the lower edge pointed to by the arrow when the grain was not straight.
How do you trim?
Imran Malik
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 5, 2025, at 8:07?AM, Jared Sankovich via groups.io <Sankovichj@...> wrote: ? I just realized I read your original post incorrectly. I thought ypu were getting tearout when coping the rails after sticking. As I read it again, it seems like the tearout issue you are having is when you are crosscutting at the saw?
On Sun, Jan 5, 2025, 7:39 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Thank you David. One thing I was too lazy to do was employ the tenoning plate. I had slight variation at the joint even though all pieces were milled upside down (actually required by the router bit set). It was easily sanded but I would definitely use the tenoning plate next time. On Jan 4, 2025, at 7:41?PM, David P. Best via <dbestworkshop= [email protected]> wrote: ? Imran,?
I employ the same workflow that Tom outlined.? I will often machine the linear profiles employing a backfence rather than against the shaper hood fence.? A few years ago I posted a series of videos demonstrating this workflow using a Freeborn cutter set similar to yours.? You can view the videos at this link: ?
|
David Best - via mobile phone?
?
Hi Imran,?
?
My method is to perform all of the cross-grain work prior to performing the linear work. So, when I'm producing stiles and rails for a window (for instance), my sequence is the following:
-- Perform counter-profile milling operation on rails
-- Perform slotting operation on stiles
-- Perform linear profiling work
-- I over-size my sashes so that I can take 1mm off each side after assembly?
?
The above operation ensures that any tear-out produced during the cross-grain operations will be removed by the linear operations. When I'm running the assembled sash through the shaper to remove the extra 1mm I'll feed a "chaser" board after the sash to prevent tear-out.?
?
For short parts it's optimal to use an outboard- or back- fence, rather than the hood fence plates.?
?
I hope this helps,?
?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
Re: Processing Rails & Stiles for Cabinet Doors: Trimming Rails and stiles to length
Hi Imran,
When checking your doors for square, try using an offcut with a? small nail through one end. That will go on the inside of one corner, then mark on the stick the opposite corner. Change to the corner oppposite the first and check the mark. No measuring needed! :)
--
https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
|
Re: Processing Rails & Stiles for Cabinet Doors: Trimming Rails and stiles to length
I just realized I read your original post incorrectly. I thought ypu were getting tearout when coping the rails after sticking. As I read it again, it seems like the tearout issue you are having is when you are crosscutting at the saw?
On Sun, Jan 5, 2025, 7:39 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Thank you David. One thing I was too lazy to do was employ the tenoning plate. I had slight variation at the joint even though all pieces were milled upside down (actually required by the router bit set). It was easily sanded but I would definitely use the tenoning plate next time. On Jan 4, 2025, at 7:41?PM, David P. Best via <dbestworkshop= [email protected]> wrote: ? Imran,?
I employ the same workflow that Tom outlined.? I will often machine the linear profiles employing a backfence rather than against the shaper hood fence.? A few years ago I posted a series of videos demonstrating this workflow using a Freeborn cutter set similar to yours.? You can view the videos at this link: ?
|
David Best - via mobile phone?
?
Hi Imran,?
?
My method is to perform all of the cross-grain work prior to performing the linear work. So, when I'm producing stiles and rails for a window (for instance), my sequence is the following:
-- Perform counter-profile milling operation on rails
-- Perform slotting operation on stiles
-- Perform linear profiling work
-- I over-size my sashes so that I can take 1mm off each side after assembly?
?
The above operation ensures that any tear-out produced during the cross-grain operations will be removed by the linear operations. When I'm running the assembled sash through the shaper to remove the extra 1mm I'll feed a "chaser" board after the sash to prevent tear-out.?
?
For short parts it's optimal to use an outboard- or back- fence, rather than the hood fence plates.?
?
I hope this helps,?
?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
Re: Processing Rails & Stiles for Cabinet Doors: Trimming Rails and stiles to length
Thank you David. One thing I was too lazy to do was employ the tenoning plate. I had slight variation at the joint even though all pieces were milled upside down (actually required by the router bit set). It was easily sanded but I would definitely use the tenoning plate next time.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 4, 2025, at 7:41?PM, David P. Best via groups.io <dbestworkshop@...> wrote: ? Imran,?
I employ the same workflow that Tom outlined. ?I will often machine the linear profiles employing a backfence rather than against the shaper hood fence. ?A few years ago I posted a series of videos demonstrating this workflow using a Freeborn cutter set similar to yours. ?You can view the videos at this link: ?
|
David Best - via mobile phone?
On Jan 4, 2025, at 7:53?AM, Tom Gensmer via groups.io <tom@...> wrote:
?
Hi Imran,?
?
My method is to perform all of the cross-grain work prior to performing the linear work. So, when I'm producing stiles and rails for a window (for instance), my sequence is the following:
-- Perform counter-profile milling operation on rails
-- Perform slotting operation on stiles
-- Perform linear profiling work
-- I over-size my sashes so that I can take 1mm off each side after assembly?
?
The above operation ensures that any tear-out produced during the cross-grain operations will be removed by the linear operations. When I'm running the assembled sash through the shaper to remove the extra 1mm I'll feed a "chaser" board after the sash to prevent tear-out.?
?
For short parts it's optimal to use an outboard- or back- fence, rather than the hood fence plates.?
?
I hope this helps,?
?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
Re: Processing Rails & Stiles for Cabinet Doors: Trimming Rails and stiles to length
Thanks Jared. That is definitely worth it on a large project as one would need to flip the cutters as well so one more setup.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 5, 2025, at 1:00?AM, Jared Sankovich via groups.io <Sankovichj@...> wrote: ? Correct.? (See attached pictures)
On Sat, Jan 4, 2025, 10:30 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Jared,
So you reverse rotation and feed for each side of the coping operation to ensure the cut exits on the exterior end of the stile. Ensuring that the inside corner is clean. Correct? On Jan 4, 2025, at 11:20?AM, Jared Sankovich via <Sankovichj= [email protected]> wrote: ? I alson run sticking in long lengths then for coping I run left and right (clockwise and counter clockwise) cope heads.?
I process the same way as Tom. Everything cut to near net length, run through shaper/router with a backer and then trimmed later. Note that I do only inset cabinets so all of the doors are oversized and scribed to size for perfect reveals.?
James Hi Imran,?
?
My method is to perform all of the cross-grain work prior to performing the linear work. So, when I'm producing stiles and rails for a window (for instance), my sequence is the following:
-- Perform counter-profile milling operation on rails
-- Perform slotting operation on stiles
-- Perform linear profiling work
-- I over-size my sashes so that I can take 1mm off each side after assembly?
?
The above operation ensures that any tear-out produced during the cross-grain operations will be removed by the linear operations. When I'm running the assembled sash through the shaper to remove the extra 1mm I'll feed a "chaser" board after the sash to prevent tear-out.?
?
For short parts it's optimal to use an outboard- or back- fence, rather than the hood fence plates.?
?
I hope this helps,?
?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
<Screenshot_20250105_001341_Instagram.jpg> <Screenshot_20250105_005647_Instagram.jpg>
|
Re: Processing Rails & Stiles for Cabinet Doors: Trimming Rails and stiles to length
Correct.? (See attached pictures)
On Sat, Jan 4, 2025, 10:30 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Jared,
So you reverse rotation and feed for each side of the coping operation to ensure the cut exits on the exterior end of the stile. Ensuring that the inside corner is clean. Correct? On Jan 4, 2025, at 11:20?AM, Jared Sankovich via <Sankovichj= [email protected]> wrote: ? I alson run sticking in long lengths then for coping I run left and right (clockwise and counter clockwise) cope heads.?
I process the same way as Tom. Everything cut to near net length, run through shaper/router with a backer and then trimmed later. Note that I do only inset cabinets so all of the doors are oversized and scribed to size for perfect reveals.?
James Hi Imran,?
?
My method is to perform all of the cross-grain work prior to performing the linear work. So, when I'm producing stiles and rails for a window (for instance), my sequence is the following:
-- Perform counter-profile milling operation on rails
-- Perform slotting operation on stiles
-- Perform linear profiling work
-- I over-size my sashes so that I can take 1mm off each side after assembly?
?
The above operation ensures that any tear-out produced during the cross-grain operations will be removed by the linear operations. When I'm running the assembled sash through the shaper to remove the extra 1mm I'll feed a "chaser" board after the sash to prevent tear-out.?
?
For short parts it's optimal to use an outboard- or back- fence, rather than the hood fence plates.?
?
I hope this helps,?
?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
What do folks use for editing videos?
|
I posted about this before, but here is what I do for shop still and video photography. ? I do a LOT of shop still and video photography. ?Although I have a full studio rig for??work, I don’t bring any of those cameras or lighting into the shop - ever. ?Instead, most of my shop work is done with an iPhone 15 Pro Max, and iPad Pro, and a Canon EOS M50 Mirrorless for vlogging. ?I find the iPhone newer models to be absolutely fantastic in terms of image quality, and is what I used exclusively for my recent??on indexable tooling.?
?I like the Cannon M50 for blogging because of the flip-out screen that moves to the side rather than over or under which compromises use with tripod or on-cameral lighting. ?This way I can see the composition while making videos with me in the frame and still use it with a mount underneath or with hot-shoe lighting. ?If I had to make the choice today, I might opt for the?Osmo Pocket 3 like Paul has because of the subject tracking capability. ?If I wanted a compact interchangeable lens DLSR for vlogging today, I would probably go for the Sony?Alpha ZV-E10, although I haven’t tested it. ?Still looking for a mirrorless DLSR with a body in Mauve.
To me, one of the most important and often overlooked aspects of shop photography is how to hold the camera (if not handheld). ?Although I used tripods for studio and field work, I detest using a tripod in the shop - simply because they are difficult to position and set up, and are a terrible trip hazard, all because of the splayed legs. ?Instead I use a Manfroto setup with Super-Clamp (that I can attach basically anywhere) in conjunction with an??system, ball head and Arca-Swiss quick mount system. ?You can see this setup in this video: ??
For those who don’t know, the??system is a dovetail-type quick release mount that attaches to the threaded tripod mount and allows for quick release and moving the camera from one mounting setup to another without lots of fuss. ?
In addition to the articulating arm system, I use a really sweet desktop tripod () with ball head that converts to a selfie stick as shown below. I use this with the??(although there are other similar brands) with the Arca-Swiss mount for quick release. ?
For camera work on machines, I have adapted the Arca-Swiss quick mount to the Noga Mag Base units with articulating arms as shown below. ?I have a number of strategically placed steel plates overhead which I can use as mounting points for this Noga setup.
Hope this is informative.
On Oct 31, 2024, at 8:55?AM, Bob Wise via??<bob@...> wrote:
Maybe slightly off topic, but wondering if the members would be willing to share what gear they use to shoot shop videos? Especially if you self-shoot without an assistant. Are you using a phone? Dedicated camera and tripod? Something like an Osmo 3?
-Bob
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Re: Processing Rails & Stiles for Cabinet Doors: Trimming Rails and stiles to length
Imran,
I do what Tom suggests, plus adding domino in the joint, it makes the assembling/gluing so much easier.
James
On Sat, Jan 4, 2025 at 10:57?PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Thanks Tom. I was getting such accurate cuts on the length of rail and stiles that I thought there is no need for extra width, as I could get a square frame by just ensuring that the rail ends match stile ends. However, I could it to be difficult to ensure that during clamping. They were not bad but most of the times if you drag the nail across, either one of them could be a hair proud. So lesson learned.
Another thing, that can’t ?be done easily, with exact width rail & stile, is to be able to put a clamp on the long diagonal to square the door. Could end up marring. That is eliminated with trimming all 4 sides.
? Hi Imran,?
?
My method is to perform all of the cross-grain work prior to performing the linear work. So, when I'm producing stiles and rails for a window (for instance), my sequence is the following:
-- Perform counter-profile milling operation on rails
-- Perform slotting operation on stiles
-- Perform linear profiling work
-- I over-size my sashes so that I can take 1mm off each side after assembly?
?
The above operation ensures that any tear-out produced during the cross-grain operations will be removed by the linear operations. When I'm running the assembled sash through the shaper to remove the extra 1mm I'll feed a "chaser" board after the sash to prevent tear-out.?
?
For short parts it's optimal to use an outboard- or back- fence, rather than the hood fence plates.?
?
I hope this helps,?
?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
Re: Processing Rails & Stiles for Cabinet Doors: Trimming Rails and stiles to length
Thanks Tom. I was getting such accurate cuts on the length of rail and stiles that I thought there is no need for extra width, as I could get a square frame by just ensuring that the rail ends match stile ends. However, I could it to be difficult to ensure that during clamping. They were not bad but most of the times if you drag the nail across, either one of them could be a hair proud. So lesson learned.
Another thing, that can’t ?be done easily, with exact width rail & stile, is to be able to put a clamp on the long diagonal to square the door. Could end up marring. That is eliminated with trimming all 4 sides.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 4, 2025, at 10:53?AM, Tom Gensmer via groups.io <tom@...> wrote: ? Hi Imran,?
?
My method is to perform all of the cross-grain work prior to performing the linear work. So, when I'm producing stiles and rails for a window (for instance), my sequence is the following:
-- Perform counter-profile milling operation on rails
-- Perform slotting operation on stiles
-- Perform linear profiling work
-- I over-size my sashes so that I can take 1mm off each side after assembly?
?
The above operation ensures that any tear-out produced during the cross-grain operations will be removed by the linear operations. When I'm running the assembled sash through the shaper to remove the extra 1mm I'll feed a "chaser" board after the sash to prevent tear-out.?
?
For short parts it's optimal to use an outboard- or back- fence, rather than the hood fence plates.?
?
I hope this helps,?
?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
Re: Processing Rails & Stiles for Cabinet Doors: Trimming Rails and stiles to length
Hi Brett,
Thanks for the details. I did not make stiles longer than needed because I would have had trouble measuring the diagonals. You just helped me big time by sharing that all of the excess can be on one side. That is very helpful.
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On Jan 4, 2025, at 1:59?PM, Brett Wissel via groups.io <Brettwissel@...> wrote: ? 1. Calibrate stock batch with intentional?extras, lay out to rest/acclimate and see which sticks stay most stable. 2. Check calibration and make sample reference?blocks for profile and counterprofile pieces. Start with counterprofile (cope), Specifically make lengths of counterprofile for use as sacrificial fit-pieces for backer tearout boards. Usually prefer my shaper?setups to be "zero compensation", i.e. a 100mm wide stock will still be 100mm at max extents after processing profile or counterprofile. This puts the onus of accuracy on running stock perfectly dimensioned by prior steps to arriving at shaper, but also allows a cope that should be 500mm to be crosscut off the saw and will still be 500mm pushing through shaper regardless of how many times it goes through, and allows for "sneaking up" on a desired length if an adjustment is needed in dry fitting steps.Sometimes I sneak up with the infeed shaper fence, other times trimming with crosscut on saw.? 3. Then switch setup to profile (stick). 4. Check best stock for longest lengths, run sticking profiles. plus intentional extras in case you need them later. 5. Trim sticking?to length?+ extra (I often start with 10mm) for each stick and make matching pairs at saw, starting with longest straightest parts first and working shorter. 6. Swap shaper setup to coping again. 6. Trim copes to length on saw, attach sacrificial?counterprofile piece as backer to profiles to prevent tearout, cope cut counterprofiles on shaper each end. 7. Assemble dry fits on frame?press or clamp table, press one cope flush to ends of sticks, result is? 3 reference square edges with 4th edge holding all the excess remaining proud?to trim off later, mark square references on the pieces with pencil for assurances on glue up later without need for measures. 8. Swap shaper setup to panel processing. 9. Glue/assemble/repeat. 10. Trim excess edges to fit, run outside profiles as needed, send on to surfacing/finishing steps.
I can't figure out how to do it with less work that also prevents me from making stupid mistakes along the way. On Sat, Jan 4, 2025 at 10:20?AM Jared Sankovich via <Sankovichj= [email protected]> wrote: I alson run sticking in long lengths then for coping I run left and right (clockwise and counter clockwise) cope heads.?
I process the same way as Tom. Everything cut to near net length, run through shaper/router with a backer and then trimmed later. Note that I do only inset cabinets so all of the doors are oversized and scribed to size for perfect reveals.?
James Hi Imran,?
?
My method is to perform all of the cross-grain work prior to performing the linear work. So, when I'm producing stiles and rails for a window (for instance), my sequence is the following:
-- Perform counter-profile milling operation on rails
-- Perform slotting operation on stiles
-- Perform linear profiling work
-- I over-size my sashes so that I can take 1mm off each side after assembly?
?
The above operation ensures that any tear-out produced during the cross-grain operations will be removed by the linear operations. When I'm running the assembled sash through the shaper to remove the extra 1mm I'll feed a "chaser" board after the sash to prevent tear-out.?
?
For short parts it's optimal to use an outboard- or back- fence, rather than the hood fence plates.?
?
I hope this helps,?
?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Re: Processing Rails & Stiles for Cabinet Doors: Trimming Rails and stiles to length
Jared,
So you reverse rotation and feed for each side of the coping operation to ensure the cut exits on the exterior end of the stile. Ensuring that the inside corner is clean. Correct?
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On Jan 4, 2025, at 11:20?AM, Jared Sankovich via groups.io <Sankovichj@...> wrote: ? I alson run sticking in long lengths then for coping I run left and right (clockwise and counter clockwise) cope heads.?
I process the same way as Tom. Everything cut to near net length, run through shaper/router with a backer and then trimmed later. Note that I do only inset cabinets so all of the doors are oversized and scribed to size for perfect reveals.?
James Hi Imran,?
?
My method is to perform all of the cross-grain work prior to performing the linear work. So, when I'm producing stiles and rails for a window (for instance), my sequence is the following:
-- Perform counter-profile milling operation on rails
-- Perform slotting operation on stiles
-- Perform linear profiling work
-- I over-size my sashes so that I can take 1mm off each side after assembly?
?
The above operation ensures that any tear-out produced during the cross-grain operations will be removed by the linear operations. When I'm running the assembled sash through the shaper to remove the extra 1mm I'll feed a "chaser" board after the sash to prevent tear-out.?
?
For short parts it's optimal to use an outboard- or back- fence, rather than the hood fence plates.?
?
I hope this helps,?
?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: Processing Rails & Stiles for Cabinet Doors: Trimming Rails and stiles to length
Hi Jim,
Trimming after long grain profile is where I had the issue of tear out. Does not happen every time but if it happens on the 2nd cut then the piece is wasted. This may be an issue with the type of profile. My profile below was more prone to tear out. Granted it would be on top or bottom of the door. Plus if the rail and stiles are made wider then the end can be trimmed away.
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On Jan 4, 2025, at 11:08?AM, Jim Dayton via groups.io <jd74914@...> wrote: ? I process the same way as Tom. Everything cut to near net length, run through shaper/router with a backer and then trimmed later. Note that I do only inset cabinets so all of the doors are oversized and scribed to size for perfect reveals.?
James Hi Imran,?
?
My method is to perform all of the cross-grain work prior to performing the linear work. So, when I'm producing stiles and rails for a window (for instance), my sequence is the following:
-- Perform counter-profile milling operation on rails
-- Perform slotting operation on stiles
-- Perform linear profiling work
-- I over-size my sashes so that I can take 1mm off each side after assembly?
?
The above operation ensures that any tear-out produced during the cross-grain operations will be removed by the linear operations. When I'm running the assembled sash through the shaper to remove the extra 1mm I'll feed a "chaser" board after the sash to prevent tear-out.?
?
For short parts it's optimal to use an outboard- or back- fence, rather than the hood fence plates.?
?
I hope this helps,?
?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: Processing Rails & Stiles for Cabinet Doors: Trimming Rails and stiles to length
Imran,?
I employ the same workflow that Tom outlined. ?I will often machine the linear profiles employing a backfence rather than against the shaper hood fence. ?A few years ago I posted a series of videos demonstrating this workflow using a Freeborn cutter set similar to yours. ?You can view the videos at this link: ?
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David Best - via mobile phone?
On Jan 4, 2025, at 7:53?AM, Tom Gensmer via groups.io <tom@...> wrote:
?
Hi Imran,?
?
My method is to perform all of the cross-grain work prior to performing the linear work. So, when I'm producing stiles and rails for a window (for instance), my sequence is the following:
-- Perform counter-profile milling operation on rails
-- Perform slotting operation on stiles
-- Perform linear profiling work
-- I over-size my sashes so that I can take 1mm off each side after assembly?
?
The above operation ensures that any tear-out produced during the cross-grain operations will be removed by the linear operations. When I'm running the assembled sash through the shaper to remove the extra 1mm I'll feed a "chaser" board after the sash to prevent tear-out.?
?
For short parts it's optimal to use an outboard- or back- fence, rather than the hood fence plates.?
?
I hope this helps,?
?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
imran
Bryce Comer
David P. Best