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Re: Felder slider and Mitre gauges
I put mine on a long pegboard peg. The clamp hooked over the peg, and the fence dangled straight down. Not very elegant, but since I did not use it I did not care. (Now it is on a pallet, as I try to find a buyer for the saw).
--
John Hinman Boise ID Kappa 450X and A941 |
Re: Felder slider and Mitre gauges
Parallel guides may be quite helpful, along with a device to set one to match the other.
?
DRO for the crosscut fence stop. If you did not get one from Felder with your saw, the Lamb Tool Works version is very good.
?
DRO for the rip fence. Cheap Chinese DRO can be adapted to the rip fence fairly easily.
--
John Hinman Boise ID Kappa 450X and A941 |
Re: Felder slider and Mitre gauges
I see.? I was hoping to use it more so I won't have that long fence out the side all the time.? Maybe only use the long fence when I really need to.? I should have enough room, but it's still better to have some space.
?
What would be the most useful jig or fence like item for a slider saw?? For miter and overall use?? I know the F&F type of jig is probably one of the most used, anything else?? Is there a thread which talks about just jigs?
?
Also, I have seen people talking about Mac's clamp, but can't find anything in Google, what is it exactly?
?
Thanks
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Nelson |
Re: K 700S T slot nut
Thanks for the info David, this is very helpful.??
?
It seems the bushing location on the Felder T nut is just 1 and you have 2 such locations on your design.? I have not seen any of the Felder accessories or the fence, have a few more questions:
- What is the bushing typically used for?? I see you use it for vertical alignment in the videos, I can see how it's used.? If you don't care too much about vertical alignment, like securing a clamp, the bushing is not really needed right?
- Is there a pin on the Felder fence to go into the bushing as well?? I can not tell from anything I have read or on videos.? If the Felder T Nut can not be aligned like your design, then the accessory may not be vertically aligned corrected.
- In you revised design drawing, there is a --1.74mm gap at the edge of top left corner.? I'm not sure what that's showing, is it tapered from the bottom to the top by 1.74mm?
-? Also, what is the "5/8 end mill cutter" note on the left upper corner?? I have not seen much mechanical drawings before, not too familiar with these notations.
?
Thanks,
?
Nelson? |
Re: K 700S T slot nut
David:? I watched all these video you posted related to the short fence and how you fixed the problem, it is clear to me what you did and why.? Thank you.
?
I was just wondering, if you made a T Nut with the side set screw adjustment, and instead of using bushing like your design, just machine the hole to tighter tolerance (+0.05mm) over the Felder shaft that goes into it, will it help a great deal with the alignment as well?
? |
Re: Mirka DEOS 3x4 vs Surfprep
I have an older model, the Ceos, with a 150mm pad. The difference between the Ceos and the Deos is that the Deos comes with the transformer built into the sander, while the Ceos requires an external, separate transformer. As a result the Ceos is a little lighter in the hand, but the Deos is more convenient to set up.?
I love using this little sander, which was purchased over a Festool. It is especially kind to us physically when planing vertical sections - obviously originally made for the motor refinishing industry. The paddle will feel unusual at the start, and then is forgotten once you become familiar with the sander. Mine is the lowest sander in vibration I use used, and the dust control is the absolute best (used with Mirka mesh and a Festool vacuum).?
Regards from Perth
Derek |
Re: Profil 45Z commission and setup
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýThe sliding table and the splinter tongue shown in those drawings is of a pre-X-roll machine circa 2002. ?Just FYI. ?That said, the wing-screws and rhombus t-nuts could be used with the current crosscut fence to secure a shop-made tearout preventer such as shown below.?David Best - via mobile phone? On Dec 14, 2024, at 3:10?PM, PK via groups.io <pk@...> wrote:
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Re: Mirka DEOS 3x4 vs Surfprep
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Tom Gensmer via groups.io <tom@...>
Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2024 5:42:23 PM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [FOG] Mirka DEOS 3x4 vs Surfprep ?
Hi Michael,?
?
I have the Mirka 6" random orbit sander and I really like it. With the sander in hand I don't notice the paddle switch. For shop work I wouldn't hesitate to go all-in on Mirka. If you opt for Mirka, I suggest getting one of their ~18" hose sections which
can thread directly onto the sander, this makes for a more well-balanced sander which is easier to handle.?
?
If you're on the go, I'd suggest also considering the new Makita sanders. I recently ordered a Makita BO005CGZ 80mm x 133mm sander and I really like it. Very similar ergonomics to the Mirka Deros and Deos sanders, with the benefit of being cordless, running
on the Makita 40V XGT platform. At present, the only way to get these sanders is to import from Japan or the UK via e-bay sellers, though it does look like Makita USA will be introducing the 6" 5mm random orbit sanders in early 2025, presumably with the others
(6" 3mm, 5" 5mm, 5" 3mm, 80x133, and Delta) to come some time later.?
?
Makita GOB01CZ: ?
?
Standard 27mm hose bayonets fit the Makita XGT sanders fine, though for more finesse I suggest using a Makita vac as their hose will thread onto a special adapter, similar setup as the Mirka. I make extensive use of my Makita GCV04PMUX, best when paired
with 8.0Ah batteries: ?
?
Hope this is helpful,?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC Minneapolis, MN -- Michael Marsico |
Re: Mirka DEOS 3x4 vs Surfprep
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of PK via groups.io <pk@...>
Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2024 6:04:57 PM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [FOG] Mirka DEOS 3x4 vs Surfprep ?
Michael,
?
I have used the SurfPrep 3x4 and subsequently bought and use a Ekasand 3x4 from Uneeda.? They seem to be identical and the Ekasand had a longer warranty.? Prices are the same, but Uneeda has far more sales than Surfprep.??
?
?
I use the sander with the sponge sandpaper and I am very happy with it.? It excels at working on finishes and I have yet to see a pigtail from it ever.? Lots of shops use them to scuff before coats and the results are far better than hand sanding.
?
There are lots of videos out there on them and how to use it on doors etc.
?
They sell an adaptor to use it with the festool vacuums.
?
PK
-- Michael Marsico |
Re: Profil 45Z commission and setup
Netaniel,
?
I went out to check out what I have and I have the answer:
?
These are for a sacrificial piece of wood to be added to the crosscut fence:
?
?
This is for a sacrificial piece to be added to the front of the fence:
?
The other parts I cannot speak to.
?
PK |
Re: Mirka DEOS 3x4 vs Surfprep
Michael,
?
I have used the SurfPrep 3x4 and subsequently bought and use a Ekasand 3x4 from Uneeda.? They seem to be identical and the Ekasand had a longer warranty.? Prices are the same, but Uneeda has far more sales than Surfprep.??
?
?
I use the sander with the sponge sandpaper and I am very happy with it.? It excels at working on finishes and I have yet to see a pigtail from it ever.? Lots of shops use them to scuff before coats and the results are far better than hand sanding.
?
There are lots of videos out there on them and how to use it on doors etc.
?
They sell an adaptor to use it with the festool vacuums.
?
PK |
Re: Mirka DEOS 3x4 vs Surfprep
Hi Michael,?
?
I have the Mirka 6" random orbit sander and I really like it. With the sander in hand I don't notice the paddle switch. For shop work I wouldn't hesitate to go all-in on Mirka. If you opt for Mirka, I suggest getting one of their ~18" hose sections which can thread directly onto the sander, this makes for a more well-balanced sander which is easier to handle.?
?
If you're on the go, I'd suggest also considering the new Makita sanders. I recently ordered a Makita BO005CGZ 80mm x 133mm sander and I really like it. Very similar ergonomics to the Mirka Deros and Deos sanders, with the benefit of being cordless, running on the Makita 40V XGT platform. At present, the only way to get these sanders is to import from Japan or the UK via e-bay sellers, though it does look like Makita USA will be introducing the 6" 5mm random orbit sanders in early 2025, presumably with the others (6" 3mm, 5" 5mm, 5" 3mm, 80x133, and Delta) to come some time later.?
?
Makita GOB01CZ: ?
?
Standard 27mm hose bayonets fit the Makita XGT sanders fine, though for more finesse I suggest using a Makita vac as their hose will thread onto a special adapter, similar setup as the Mirka. I make extensive use of my Makita GCV04PMUX, best when paired with 8.0Ah batteries: ?
?
Hope this is helpful,?
--
Tom Gensmer Heritage Home Renewals, LLC Minneapolis, MN |
Re: Mirka DEOS 3x4 vs Surfprep
Thanks Jason - I have read really good things about both of them ¡ probably cant go wrong with either Thank you? Michael On Sat, Dec 14, 2024 at 4:45?PM Jason Holtz via <jholtzy=[email protected]> wrote:
--
Michael Marsico |
Re: Mirka DEOS 3x4 vs Surfprep
I have been using a 5" Mirka Deros since 2020. It just went kaput one day a couple weeks ago. Sent it in for service, they made it a very easy process. Came back with virtually every part replaced. Cost $320. It gets used a lot.? A finisher of mine uses the Surfprep and likes them a lot.? Jason Holtz J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406 612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406 |
Re: Felder FB610 Fence Support problems
Pictures converted to jpg in case they don't open for you. Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Saturday, December 14, 2024 at 01:57:19 PM MST, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote:
Here are some pictures of the rip fence housing on my KF700 nand how they adjust the fence to be square. First picture is from the top showing the screws that limit how hard you can clamp. Then the next two pictures show the adjustment screws to set the fence to 90?. If you "knuckle" doesn't have that feature, you will need to add it, or get Felder to replace the knuckle with one that is square. Personally bI would want the ability to adjust the fence for square. Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Saturday, December 14, 2024 at 01:41:24 PM MST, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote:
As I posted before, the set screws are there to limit how hard you can clamp on the aluminum extrusion using the center bolt. It sounds like the machined surface of the slot that rests on the F bar, is not machined square to the faces that the fence extrusion mounts to. If that is the case, and you don't want to wait for Felder to come to their senses, fix it yourself by having the slot re-machined, or adding a set screw to the slot so it bears on the F bars and cures the issue. Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Saturday, December 14, 2024 at 01:22:31 PM MST, Ron Pomeroy via groups.io <rpomeroy@...> wrote:
<disclaimer - this is my understanding of things>
?
No. It in fact exposed the problem with the knuckle.
?
The mounting (flat) bars need to be parallel (coplanar) to the table surface. Otherwise the fence will rise and fall as it travels left and right. At some point the fence can run into the table surface. ?
?
The nylon screws underneath need to be adjusted so that:
?
A) there is a small consistent gap between the aluminum fence extrusion and the table so that the fence sits just above the table. ?
B) the groove in the knuckle that rides on the flat bar sits perfectly flat and doesn¡¯t rock so your fence is stable and square to the table. If the nylon screws underneath are not adjusted correctly the fence assembly will rock and squareness will not be repeatable as you move the fence. the nylon screws underneath serve only two roles:
?
As for the set screws in the knuckle - truth be told - I think it¡¯s a design flaw. Maybe they have a completely different purpose I don¡¯t know about. The rail and fence assemble designs are roughly the same on the Hammer N4400 and the Felder FB lines. ?It¡¯s interesting that the knuckle on the N4400 doesn¡¯t have any set screws. I also had to shim the fence on the N4400 to get it square (again I aligned the rails parallel to the table first). Drift/toe-out was adjusted by adjusting the bolts that hold the rail to the table.
?
If I¡¯m wrong someone speak up and correct me.
?
|
Re: Felder FB610 Fence Support problems
Here are some pictures of the rip fence housing on my KF700 nand how they adjust the fence to be square. First picture is from the top showing the screws that limit how hard you can clamp. Then the next two pictures show the adjustment screws to set the fence to 90?. If you "knuckle" doesn't have that feature, you will need to add it, or get Felder to replace the knuckle with one that is square. Personally bI would want the ability to adjust the fence for square. Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Saturday, December 14, 2024 at 01:41:24 PM MST, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote:
As I posted before, the set screws are there to limit how hard you can clamp on the aluminum extrusion using the center bolt. It sounds like the machined surface of the slot that rests on the F bar, is not machined square to the faces that the fence extrusion mounts to. If that is the case, and you don't want to wait for Felder to come to their senses, fix it yourself by having the slot re-machined, or adding a set screw to the slot so it bears on the F bars and cures the issue. Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Saturday, December 14, 2024 at 01:22:31 PM MST, Ron Pomeroy via groups.io <rpomeroy@...> wrote:
<disclaimer - this is my understanding of things>
?
No. It in fact exposed the problem with the knuckle.
?
The mounting (flat) bars need to be parallel (coplanar) to the table surface. Otherwise the fence will rise and fall as it travels left and right. At some point the fence can run into the table surface. ?
?
The nylon screws underneath need to be adjusted so that:
?
A) there is a small consistent gap between the aluminum fence extrusion and the table so that the fence sits just above the table. ?
B) the groove in the knuckle that rides on the flat bar sits perfectly flat and doesn¡¯t rock so your fence is stable and square to the table. If the nylon screws underneath are not adjusted correctly the fence assembly will rock and squareness will not be repeatable as you move the fence. the nylon screws underneath serve only two roles:
?
As for the set screws in the knuckle - truth be told - I think it¡¯s a design flaw. Maybe they have a completely different purpose I don¡¯t know about. The rail and fence assemble designs are roughly the same on the Hammer N4400 and the Felder FB lines. ?It¡¯s interesting that the knuckle on the N4400 doesn¡¯t have any set screws. I also had to shim the fence on the N4400 to get it square (again I aligned the rails parallel to the table first). Drift/toe-out was adjusted by adjusting the bolts that hold the rail to the table.
?
If I¡¯m wrong someone speak up and correct me.
?
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