Re: Profil 45Z commission and setup
Neither one of those t-nuts will meet the requirements. ?You need two set-screws to anchor the T-nut in the slider, and counterbores at each end so you can reverse the T-nut for leveling with grub screws in the shoulders on one side of the T-nut.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Dec 9, 2024, at 1:54?AM, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
I am meeting tomorrow with the metal shop guy to discuss the final details.
The new T-nut is still faulty and doesn¡¯t register properly. Here is a comparison between the two.
ill give more detials Tomorrow
?
thanks for the help.
<photo-3.jpg>
?
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Re: Profil 45Z commission and setup
I am meeting tomorrow with the metal shop guy to discuss the final details.
The new T-nut is still faulty and doesn¡¯t register properly. Here is a comparison between the two.
ill give more detials Tomorrow
?
thanks for the help.
?
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Re: Profil 45Z commission and setup
Say more - I don¡¯t understand. ?I was wondering today if you¡¯d gotten a quote for the T-nut and how you were moving forward on this.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Dec 9, 2024, at 1:39?AM, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
By the way, they also changed a bit the T nut that secured the short cross cut fence.
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Re: Profil 45Z commission and setup
With these two adjustment points you should be able to get the feeder tires perfectly aligned to be coplanar to the cast iron top:
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Dec 9, 2024, at 1:27?AM, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
For the complainer, I don¡¯t see the 2nd lever you refer to.
?
i only have 3 lever there, one that control the tilt, but it has a fix indexing ping that prevent it from doing small increments.
the 2nd control the elevation and the third just lock the elevation.
<photo-2.jpg>
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Re: Profil 45Z commission and setup
By the way, they also changed a bit the T nut that secured the short cross cut fence.
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Re: Profil 45Z commission and setup
On Dec 9, 2024, at 12:49?AM, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
This is the thumb screw
That ¡°thumbscrew¡± looks to me like the element you called out in the parts diagram. That device secures the tension end-stop lock for the belt when the motor is articulated fully back and the belt engaged for driving the spindle. On some spindles (router spindle in particular) you must re-tension the end-stop belt locking position, and this arrangement gives you the ability to do that without the need for an idler. DM me if you are confused about how to set the end-stop belt tension position. 2)Just to make sure we are talking about the same thing, I am not referring to the picture you attached where you move the PF, but to move the base that is attached to the shaper.
I tired to change the part that is attached to the machine chassis without any success, but base is stuck. When do you place the PF when you try to swing it away? I don¡¯t quite understand your question, but when I swing away the feeder, it¡¯s usually to get fuller access to the entire top of the machine for feeding material. With the ¡°memo¡± feature of the smart stand, the need to swing-away the entire feeder stand is reduced, but is still necessary sometimes when template profiling a large panel or oddly-shaped piece, or doing a pattern trim in the middle of a panel. This swing-away mount was initially provided for feeder stands that do not have the memo capability provided by the smart stand. 3)I actually create a spacer from aluminum block like you did only to found out that Felder changed the design and now they use 3 holes an not one. now I need to order a new block from Mc-master I guess Felder left it to the user community to debug the lack of rigidity at that mounting plate. It only took them 20 years to fix that inferior mounting bolt arrangement. That¡¯s a better response time than other issues I could cite. 4)I'll contact Felder after I'll get some mileage Good idea - you will need to open the electrical enclosure. David Best DBestWorkshop@...
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Re: Profil 45Z commission and setup
For the complainer, I don¡¯t see the 2nd lever you refer to.
?
i only have 3 lever there, one that control the tilt, but it has a fix indexing ping that prevent it from doing small increments.
the 2nd control the elevation and the third just lock the elevation.
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Re: Profil 45Z commission and setup
This is the thumb screw
.  ?
2)Just to make sure we are talking about the same thing, I am not referring to the picture you attached where you move the PF, but to move the base that is attached to the shaper.
I tired to change the part that is attached to the machine chassis without any success, but base is stuck. When do you place the PF when you try to swing it away?
?
3)I actually create a spacer from aluminum block like you did only to found out that Felder changed the design and now they use 3 holes an not one. now I need to order a new block from Mc-master :\
4)I'll contact Felder after I'll get some mileage
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Re: Profil 45Z commission and setup
On Dec 8, 2024, at 11:41?PM, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
I am setting up my shaper and I faced couple of issues with the process.
1) When I picked up the machine from the warehouse and when I stopped to charge my truck I found a thumb screw in the machine wrapping plastic.
After looking at the schematic of the machine, it looks like the thumb screw is item #33
What is this part and what it used for? I asked two FOG members for pictures of their machines, and one of them has the thumb screw connected and one doesn't.
I am not sure if this part is supposed to be there or not.
Show a photo of the ¡°thumb screw¡± you found in the wrapping please. 2)I am not sure I understand how the swing away mechanism supposed to work, but from my understanding, I am suppose to loosen the 2 kipp lever on the swing away and lift the power feeder base 4-5mm in the air so it will clear the small steel plate that supposed to help with alignment.
I was able to do that when there was just a first part of the base, but when I tired it after I finish the installation of the DC400, the swing away stay connected. What am I missing here?
Or it is simply the DC400 that weights 65KG and has a lever effect that makes it harder to pull?
Do you ever swig the PF away at all?
Yes, I swing away the feeder often. ?You can adjust the mounting for the articulated arm where it attaches to the machine chassis to offset the weight, but a small amount (2-4mm) of upward lifting on your part is normal. ?You may also want to add a spacer to the mount at the cast iron table so that the hood will raise/lower without the fence plates hitting the feeder stand. ?
3)I installed the power feeder (DC400) but the wheels of the power feeder (and the feeder itself are at a slight angle). When I lowered it to the cast iron surface, one
wheel touches the cast iron while the rest are 1-2mm higher. How can I adjust that?
By using a combination of these two adjustment points you should be able to align the tires of the feeder wheels to be coplanar to the cast iron top of your shaper. ?Lower the PF tires onto the cast iron top, loosen the levers, push down on the feeder so that all wheels are in contact and level with the top of the machine, then lock the levers.
4)Somehow I got a machine with power feeder outlet (euro 3PH plug), I didn't order this config, but I am glad it got it. This outlet should only be active once the motor is running.
Did someone try to rewire this outlet so it will work when the shaper is off but the e-stop will kill it?
I suggest you call Felder about this. ?They can instruct you on wiring within the electrical panel to achieve your goals. ?There are pros and cons of having the feeder power switched by either the spindle motor being on, or killing it with the E-stop. ?Think through what you want based on your own workflow. ?I prefer to have the power feeder under manual control and completely unrelated to the power at the spindle motor or E-Stop.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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Profil 45Z commission and setup
I am setting up my shaper and I faced couple of issues with the process.
1) When I picked up the machine from the warehouse and when I stopped to charge my truck I found a thumb screw in the machine wrapping plastic.
After looking at the schematic of the machine, it looks like the thumb screw is item #33
What is this part and what it used for? I asked two FOG members for pictures of their machines, and one of them has the thumb screw connected and one doesn't.
I am not sure if this part is supposed to be there or not.
2)I am not sure I understand how the swing away mechanism supposed to work, but from my understanding, I am suppose to loosen the 2 kipp lever on the swing away and lift the power feeder base 4-5mm in the air so it will clear the small steel plate that supposed to help with alignment.
I was able to do that when there was just a first part of the base, but when I tired it after I finish the installation of the DC400, the swing away stay connected. What am I missing here?
Or it is simply the DC400 that weights 65KG and has a lever effect that makes it harder to pull?
Do you ever swig the PF away at all?
3)I installed the power feeder (DC400) but the wheels of the power feeder (and the feeder itself are at a slight angle). When I lowered it to the cast iron surface, one wheel touches the cast iron while the rest are 1-2mm higher. How can I adjust that?
4)Somehow I got a machine with power feeder outlet (euro 3PH plug), I didn't order this config, but I am glad it got it. This outlet should only be active once the motor is running.
Did someone try to rewire this outlet so it will work when the shaper is off but the e-stop will kill it?
My machine with the "missing?" thumb screw
Schematic:
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Re: Hardware for hanging wall cabinets
If you build your uppers with a 1/4" back with nailers, then you can route a space for a 1x4 to sit under your nailer. This is how I typically hang my uppers. I can do all the prep work of fixing a 1x4 exactly level, and screw all the cabinets together I can, then just need a hand to lift the cabinets up on to the wall until I get a screw or two in. Doing it this way you will find it way easier to get everything lined up and installed with a minimum amount of fuss, and perfectly level and without any distortion of the boxes. When you pop the doors on, you will be amazed at how easy it is to get all your doors closing properly and the reveals right.
--
https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
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Re: Hardware for hanging wall cabinets
Sorry if this is too simplified¡.cut in a 1X6 into the drywall at the top and bottom (which would necessitate removing a bit of each stud as well) or use half inch ply and cut that in to the drywall. Often rough carpenters will cut a 1X6 into during rough?? Kind regards,Brian D. Milidrag
I have used similar that I get from Hafele for years on many cabinet installs. It works well as long as you can catch enought studs or have blocking in the walls. Mollybolts on an end if you absolutely can't get a stud... like at the end of a cabinet run.
On Sunday, December 8, 2024 at 05:49:28 PM MST, Rob Pritchard via <bobbydazzler2248= [email protected]> wrote:
Hi All
?
Any suggested/recommended hardware for hanging kitchen wall cabinets? Ideally I would like to install a steel rail to the wall, picking up the studs, and then make minor alterations on the fittings that would be attached to the inside of the cabinet sides.
?
Something like this?
?
I have a lot of cabinets to build and install. The base units are already installed (long story), so I'm looking to make this as easy for myself as possible.
?
?
Thanks in advance.
?
Cheers,
Rob P.
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John,
This is how I connected my RL200 with Nordfab.
I think I used a coupler over the RL200 flange, then a cut off 5¡¯ section of pipe coupled to the 90.
Joe
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On Dec 8, 2024, at 5:59?PM, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression via groups.io <airtightclamps@...> wrote:
? Air Handling systems ?contact Ka Designing and building for 50 years On Dec 8, 2024, at 6:10?PM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
? Just ordered the right part from our handling systems talk to Kay Designing and building for 50 years On Dec 8, 2024, at 6:07?PM, John Whitley <john@...> wrote:
? Hi Andrew,
?
There¡¯s a rivet, but the head isn¡¯t large and is under a lot of caulk/epoxy gunk at the seal at the bottom of the inlet. (Dear Felder, this could be a lot cleaner.) The adapter fit has never quite gotten far enough around the inlet for the rivet head to register as a problem (or not).
?
I like your idea of using a short section of hose to adapt the machine to the ducting. I have a small complication in that the ceiling to inlet drop isn¡¯t 90¡ã to the floor ¨C it angles upwards to hit the line the first section of trunk needs to be on. ?That suggests wanting a little mechanical support on the bottom end, but I can rig up something if need be.
?
I¡¯ll see what my Nordfab vendor has to say, and report back if they have any helpful suggestions, in case anyone else hits this snag.
?
¨C John
?
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Re: Hardware for hanging wall cabinets
I have used similar that I get from Hafele for years on many cabinet installs. It works well as long as you can catch enought studs or have blocking in the walls. Mollybolts on an end if you absolutely can't get a stud... like at the end of a cabinet run.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Sunday, December 8, 2024 at 05:49:28 PM MST, Rob Pritchard via groups.io <bobbydazzler2248@...> wrote:
Hi All
?
Any suggested/recommended hardware for hanging kitchen wall cabinets? Ideally I would like to install a steel rail to the wall, picking up the studs, and then make minor alterations on the fittings that would be attached to the inside of the cabinet sides.
?
Something like this?
?
I have a lot of cabinets to build and install. The base units are already installed (long story), so I'm looking to make this as easy for myself as possible.
?
?
Thanks in advance.
?
Cheers,
Rob P.
|
Air Handling systems ?contact Ka Designing and building for 50 years
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Show quoted text
On Dec 8, 2024, at 6:10?PM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
? Just ordered the right part from our handling systems talk to Kay Designing and building for 50 years On Dec 8, 2024, at 6:07?PM, John Whitley <john@...> wrote:
? Hi Andrew,
?
There¡¯s a rivet, but the head isn¡¯t large and is under a lot of caulk/epoxy gunk at the seal at the bottom of the inlet. (Dear Felder, this could be a lot cleaner.) The adapter fit has never quite gotten far enough around the inlet for the rivet head to register as a problem (or not).
?
I like your idea of using a short section of hose to adapt the machine to the ducting. I have a small complication in that the ceiling to inlet drop isn¡¯t 90¡ã to the floor ¨C it angles upwards to hit the line the first section of trunk needs to be on. ?That suggests wanting a little mechanical support on the bottom end, but I can rig up something if need be.
?
I¡¯ll see what my Nordfab vendor has to say, and report back if they have any helpful suggestions, in case anyone else hits this snag.
?
¨C John
?
|
Hardware for hanging wall cabinets
Hi All
?
Any suggested/recommended hardware for hanging kitchen wall cabinets? Ideally I would like to install a steel rail to the wall, picking up the studs, and then make minor alterations on the fittings that would be attached to the inside of the cabinet sides.
?
Something like this?
?
I have a lot of cabinets to build and install. The base units are already installed (long story), so I'm looking to make this as easy for myself as possible.
?
?
Thanks in advance.
?
Cheers,
Rob P.
|
Just ordered the right part from our handling systems talk to Kay Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Dec 8, 2024, at 6:07?PM, John Whitley <john@...> wrote:
? Hi Andrew,
?
There¡¯s a rivet, but the head isn¡¯t large and is under a lot of caulk/epoxy gunk at the seal at the bottom of the inlet. (Dear Felder, this could be a lot cleaner.) The adapter fit has never quite gotten far enough around the inlet for the rivet head to register as a problem (or not).
?
I like your idea of using a short section of hose to adapt the machine to the ducting. I have a small complication in that the ceiling to inlet drop isn¡¯t 90¡ã to the floor ¨C it angles upwards to hit the line the first section of trunk needs to be on. ?That suggests wanting a little mechanical support on the bottom end, but I can rig up something if need be.
?
I¡¯ll see what my Nordfab vendor has to say, and report back if they have any helpful suggestions, in case anyone else hits this snag.
?
¨C John
?
|
Hi Andrew,
?
There¡¯s a rivet, but the head isn¡¯t large and is under a lot of caulk/epoxy gunk at the seal at the bottom of the inlet. (Dear Felder, this could be a lot cleaner.) The adapter fit has never quite gotten far enough around the inlet for the rivet head to register as a problem (or not).
?
I like your idea of using a short section of hose to adapt the machine to the ducting. I have a small complication in that the ceiling to inlet drop isn¡¯t 90¡ã to the floor ¨C it angles upwards to hit the line the first section of trunk needs to be on. ?That suggests wanting a little mechanical support on the bottom end, but I can rig up something if need be.
?
I¡¯ll see what my Nordfab vendor has to say, and report back if they have any helpful suggestions, in case anyone else hits this snag.
?
¨C John
?
|
Re: EGL Mounting at 45 degrees
I agree with Brett. ?The EGL should be solid in all positions.
You mention calibrating. ?Using a dial indicator against the fence in the 90 degree position is a good way to calibrate. ?Use a magnetic mount on the saw table near the saw blade then move the slider back and forth while indicating to the EGL fence. ?The indicator should be constant along the length of the fence. ?The EGL will be accurate at all settings after calibrating but you still have to set the 90 degree position for the other 90 degree position. ??
Joe
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On Dec 8, 2024, at 12:51?PM, Brett Wissel via groups.io <Brettwissel@...> wrote:
? John,?
When the egl is adjusted to fit your slider, there should be a strip on low-friction material on each leg of the 90-degrees barely contacting table. I found I had to fiddle with the bracket set bolts numerous times to get it right. When it is clamped tight, it should be solid. I installed my new EGL today.? Have not calibrated it yet with test cuts , I just setup / mounted it to get familiar with it.? One issue i see is when it¡¯s at 90 degrees it is very solid without any play.? When i set it at 45 degrees there is play from side to side. Is this normal since there is less support on the slider?
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Re: EGL Mounting at 45 degrees
John,?
When the egl is adjusted to fit your slider, there should be a strip on low-friction material on each leg of the 90-degrees barely contacting table. I found I had to fiddle with the bracket set bolts numerous times to get it right. When it is clamped tight, it should be solid.
I installed my new EGL today.? Have not calibrated it yet with test cuts , I just setup / mounted it to get familiar with it.? One issue i see is when it¡¯s at 90 degrees it is very solid without any play.? When i set it at 45 degrees there is play from side to side. Is this normal since there is less support on the slider?
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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David P. Best
Bryce Comer
Brian
Rob Pritchard