Re: Cantilevered Lumber Storage Ideas
Patrick,
It was a hot day (mid 90's) and the loading took me 1:45 in the morning. Then I pulled it out and stacked it in my garage which took over 2 hours. Somewhat delayed by the insanity of Saturday afternoon.
The bummer is, I will have to cut it all to under 112" to fit it in the shed. Most of it is 8' and 10', but a few are 12'. It is going to be a long day of cutting lumber.
PK
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Re: Cantilevered Lumber Storage Ideas
The racking I have is interlake Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jul 15, 2024, at 1:06?PM, mac campshure <mac512002@...> wrote:
? I have the big heavy I beam stuff but I also have 80¡¯ 14¡¯ tall of pallet racking the ends are 1 ¡® deep ?with 3¡¯ arms two supports 1500# Designing and building for 50 years On Jul 15, 2024, at 12:34?PM, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote:
? Two 8' long pallet racks along each side and just span across them. You could put in as many cross members as levels you desire. That or Metro style racking and again, span between two units to create levels of storage.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Monday, July 15, 2024 at 10:05:15 AM MST, PK <pk@...> wrote:
On Saturday I was lucky enough to find a shop selling a stack of Walnut, Mahogany and White oak for an amazing price. I jumped at it and rented a 6x12 uhaul trailer. Upon arrival at the shop it was obvious that they had come into the wood for free and really had no way of using it in the cabinet business they had. They were making builder paint grade stuff. It totally filled the 6x12 trailer. It is about 4000 pounds of lumber. When I got home I sorted it. These numbers are conservative:
- About 200 bdft of walnut - off cuts mostly and not very valuable IMHO - cutting board stuff
- About 600 bdft of 4/4 mahogany - nice, wide and clear some 16" widths
- About 100 bdft of 5/4 mahogany - nice, wide and clear
- About 350 bdft of 5/4 rift sawn white oak - really good stuff - a few 13" widths
- About 140 bdft of 4/4 rift sawn white oak - some skip planed
- About 25 bdft of 6/4 rift sawn white oak
I paid less than 10% of what it is worth in So Cal. Now that the gloating is done, I need a way to store this. I have a 10'x10' shed on a concrete pad that is 8' tall that is my wood storage. The traditional wall mounted racking will result in this sheds demise as it is not built to handle those loads. I have looked into the traditional 8' tall steel cantilevered rack. I can get it for about $1k locally with 4 adjustable shelves, and that may be a great investment. The drawback is that it is way over engineered for my use. the uprights are 10" deep and the bases are the same 10" tall. The shelves are only 4" thick. Anyone have a better idea? I do not have a welder... PK
|
Re: Cantilevered Lumber Storage Ideas
I have the big heavy I beam stuff but I also have 80¡¯ 14¡¯ tall of pallet racking the ends are 1 ¡® deep ?with 3¡¯ arms two supports 1500# Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 15, 2024, at 12:34?PM, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote:
? Two 8' long pallet racks along each side and just span across them. You could put in as many cross members as levels you desire. That or Metro style racking and again, span between two units to create levels of storage.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Monday, July 15, 2024 at 10:05:15 AM MST, PK <pk@...> wrote:
On Saturday I was lucky enough to find a shop selling a stack of Walnut, Mahogany and White oak for an amazing price. I jumped at it and rented a 6x12 uhaul trailer. Upon arrival at the shop it was obvious that they had come into the wood for free and really had no way of using it in the cabinet business they had. They were making builder paint grade stuff. It totally filled the 6x12 trailer. It is about 4000 pounds of lumber. When I got home I sorted it. These numbers are conservative:
- About 200 bdft of walnut - off cuts mostly and not very valuable IMHO - cutting board stuff
- About 600 bdft of 4/4 mahogany - nice, wide and clear some 16" widths
- About 100 bdft of 5/4 mahogany - nice, wide and clear
- About 350 bdft of 5/4 rift sawn white oak - really good stuff - a few 13" widths
- About 140 bdft of 4/4 rift sawn white oak - some skip planed
- About 25 bdft of 6/4 rift sawn white oak
I paid less than 10% of what it is worth in So Cal. Now that the gloating is done, I need a way to store this. I have a 10'x10' shed on a concrete pad that is 8' tall that is my wood storage. The traditional wall mounted racking will result in this sheds demise as it is not built to handle those loads. I have looked into the traditional 8' tall steel cantilevered rack. I can get it for about $1k locally with 4 adjustable shelves, and that may be a great investment. The drawback is that it is way over engineered for my use. the uprights are 10" deep and the bases are the same 10" tall. The shelves are only 4" thick. Anyone have a better idea? I do not have a welder... PK
|
All my greases are Kluber Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jul 15, 2024, at 12:59?PM, mac campshure <mac512002@...> wrote:
? 140 sae heavy stuff ? Designing and building for 50 years On Jul 15, 2024, at 10:44?AM, taylor donsker via groups.io <tdonsker@...> wrote:
agma8
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|
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Re: Cantilevered Lumber Storage Ideas
Two 8' long pallet racks along each side and just span across them. You could put in as many cross members as levels you desire. That or Metro style racking and again, span between two units to create levels of storage.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Monday, July 15, 2024 at 10:05:15 AM MST, PK <pk@...> wrote:
On Saturday I was lucky enough to find a shop selling a stack of Walnut, Mahogany and White oak for an amazing price. I jumped at it and rented a 6x12 uhaul trailer. Upon arrival at the shop it was obvious that they had come into the wood for free and really had no way of using it in the cabinet business they had. They were making builder paint grade stuff. It totally filled the 6x12 trailer. It is about 4000 pounds of lumber. When I got home I sorted it. These numbers are conservative:
- About 200 bdft of walnut - off cuts mostly and not very valuable IMHO - cutting board stuff
- About 600 bdft of 4/4 mahogany - nice, wide and clear some 16" widths
- About 100 bdft of 5/4 mahogany - nice, wide and clear
- About 350 bdft of 5/4 rift sawn white oak - really good stuff - a few 13" widths
- About 140 bdft of 4/4 rift sawn white oak - some skip planed
- About 25 bdft of 6/4 rift sawn white oak
I paid less than 10% of what it is worth in So Cal. Now that the gloating is done, I need a way to store this. I have a 10'x10' shed on a concrete pad that is 8' tall that is my wood storage. The traditional wall mounted racking will result in this sheds demise as it is not built to handle those loads. I have looked into the traditional 8' tall steel cantilevered rack. I can get it for about $1k locally with 4 adjustable shelves, and that may be a great investment. The drawback is that it is way over engineered for my use. the uprights are 10" deep and the bases are the same 10" tall. The shelves are only 4" thick. Anyone have a better idea? I do not have a welder... PK
|
Re: Cantilevered Lumber Storage Ideas
I have experienced my fair share of great lumber buys, and i am not envious of your experience on saturday. I have had days of moving thousands of bdft by hand, and those are not enjoyable days. Still, great to have a large inventory of cheap lumber for years to come! I purchased a steel cantilever rack at auction for very cheap about ten years ago. I cut 2-3'+/- lengths of angle iron and bolted them to either side of the existing arms. To your point, the oem arms are not deep, and wood doesnt have nearly the same density as steel. I have my rack stacked to the max without a thought given to exceeding the?weight rating on the rack.?
Patrick
On Saturday I was lucky enough to find a shop selling a stack of Walnut, Mahogany and White oak for an amazing price. I jumped at it and rented a 6x12 uhaul trailer. Upon arrival at the shop it was obvious that they had come into the wood for free and really had no way of using it in the cabinet business they had. They were making builder paint grade stuff.
It totally filled the 6x12 trailer. It is about 4000 pounds of lumber. When I got home I sorted it. These numbers are conservative:
- About 200 bdft of walnut - off cuts mostly and not very valuable IMHO - cutting board stuff
- About 600 bdft of 4/4 mahogany - nice, wide and clear some 16" widths
- About 100 bdft of 5/4 mahogany - nice, wide and clear
- About 350 bdft of 5/4 rift sawn white oak - really good stuff - a few 13" widths
- About 140 bdft of 4/4 rift sawn white oak - some skip planed
- About 25 bdft of 6/4 rift sawn white oak
I paid less than 10% of what it is worth in So Cal. Now that the gloating is done, I need a way to store this.
I have a 10'x10' shed on a concrete pad that is 8' tall that is my wood storage. The traditional wall mounted racking will result in this sheds demise as it is not built to handle those loads. I have looked into the traditional 8' tall steel cantilevered rack. I can get it for about $1k locally with 4 adjustable shelves, and that may be a great investment. The drawback is that it is way over engineered for my use. the uprights are 10" deep and the bases are the same 10" tall. The shelves are only 4" thick.
Anyone have a better idea? I do not have a welder...
PK
|
Cantilevered Lumber Storage Ideas
On Saturday I was lucky enough to find a shop selling a stack of Walnut, Mahogany and White oak for an amazing price. I jumped at it and rented a 6x12 uhaul trailer. Upon arrival at the shop it was obvious that they had come into the wood for free and really had no way of using it in the cabinet business they had. They were making builder paint grade stuff. It totally filled the 6x12 trailer. It is about 4000 pounds of lumber. When I got home I sorted it. These numbers are conservative:
- About 200 bdft of walnut - off cuts mostly and not very valuable IMHO - cutting board stuff
- About 600 bdft of 4/4 mahogany - nice, wide and clear some 16" widths
- About 100 bdft of 5/4 mahogany - nice, wide and clear
- About 350 bdft of 5/4 rift sawn white oak - really good stuff - a few 13" widths
- About 140 bdft of 4/4 rift sawn white oak - some skip planed
- About 25 bdft of 6/4 rift sawn white oak
I paid less than 10% of what it is worth in So Cal. Now that the gloating is done, I need a way to store this. I have a 10'x10' shed on a concrete pad that is 8' tall that is my wood storage. The traditional wall mounted racking will result in this sheds demise as it is not built to handle those loads. I have looked into the traditional 8' tall steel cantilevered rack. I can get it for about $1k locally with 4 adjustable shelves, and that may be a great investment. The drawback is that it is way over engineered for my use. the uprights are 10" deep and the bases are the same 10" tall. The shelves are only 4" thick. Anyone have a better idea? I do not have a welder... PK
|
That crosses over to iso 680 gear oil.... lots of that in quart sizes on Amazon. Here is one by Kluber, which makes excellent stuff, a bit pricey, but....
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Monday, July 15, 2024 at 08:44:22 AM MST, taylor donsker <tdonsker@...> wrote:
Called straightoplane and they said agma8 oil. Can only source 5 gallon drums.
|
Called straightoplane and they said agma8 oil. Can only source 5 gallon drums.
|
Re: Sliding Table ¡°90 Degree Jig¡±
#sawsetup
Hi Lucky,
I'm not following the need to laminate the front edges of the uprights? The sides are solid wood, correct? Are you doing it to cover the slots and make the front surface proud of the shelves by 2mm? Color me confused...
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Sunday, July 14, 2024 at 08:25:22 PM MST, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
Hi FOG:
?
By way of update, the aforementioned Leitz blade is phenomenal. It cuts as smoothly as any blade I¡¯ve owned which is saying something for such a large blade with relatively narrow kerf width of 3.5mm. The
details appear again here, just in case anyone else wants to consider it as a 400mm blade option: item number 133130, 400mm diameter, 3.5mm kerf. 2.5mm body, 30mm bore, 96 teeth, 10 degree irregular pitch, ATB.
?
This is the first time I¡¯ve used a blade of this size. The dust it throws off is horrendous; I assume it has something to do with making 125mm and 135mm deep cuts. My 3M Dustmaster is in continuous use.
?
?
This is very fine dust from a couple of hours work at the saw:
?
In the end, the powered rip fence and associated programming has been gold. I¡¯ve used the special programs on the overhead display a lot, including rebating, trenching, etc., but I must say that I have not
really used the specific programming mode for the Kappa 400. It is wonderful.
?
There are 10 program positions, and each of those 10 has 100 spaces to enter specific parameters that can be called up at the press of an arrow key and the start button on the overhead display. You can imagine
its use as follows. For the first half lap joint, I needed a cut at 125mm deep, at 120mm from the end of the Zebrano board. So for P1 (where ¡°P¡± stands for ¡°Program¡±), number 1, I¡¯ve entered 125mm blade height, 0 degrees blade tilt, and 120mm rip fence position.
It works out that I need the fence (which is acting as a bump stop) to move over 16.1mm to give the half lap width I need, so I¡¯ve programmed the number 2 position with 125mm blade height, 0 degrees blade tilt, and 136.1mm rip fence position for the second
cut (i.e. both shoulders of the lap joint). And so forth and so on for all 7 half lap joint positions along the bookcase upright. After 4 cuts, my rip fence is out at about 1150mm. So at this point I have to flip the upright end for end and start again on
the final 3 shelf positions (working from the top of the uprights). This is made easy using the programming on the Kappa 400. Obviously my uprights all need to be dimensioned accurately which I have done.
?
I forgot to say that I could not use special programming function which the Kappa 400 offers, where the rip fence can be programmed for a number of grooves or trenches of a specific width and depth, at fixed
intervals. The reason? Because my shelves are deeper at the bottom and much shallower at the top, so the position of each half lap joint on the uprights is of decreasing distance (from the bottom up) and increasing distance (from the top down). Programming
mode made this process easy. Seems like cheating. Comparing uprights at random, and I¡¯d say the 0.1mm claimed tolerance is verified. I¡¯ve used lots of compressed air between cuts to make sure registrations are accurate, and I¡¯d say the Kappa 400 has worked
as advertised. I strongly recommend a Felder powered rip fence as a wonderful option.
?
Anyway, the 3.5mm blade width allowed for 6 passes to remove the waste for each half-lap joint. No drilling, no knocking out timber, no marking lines, and definitely no chiselling. I¡¯ve decided I can live
with the bumpy but regularly reliable surface in the middle of each half lap joint.
?
?
Last night I assembled the first and smallest of the bookcases. It went together very nicely but I think I¡¯m going to tweak the Walnut shelves (through the wide belt sander) so the fit is less tight. In the
picture below, you¡¯ll see the upper shelves don¡¯t seem the correct width. That¡¯s because the uprights have not been curved yet, to reflect the design where shelves at the bottom are full depth (260mm) while the shelves become less deep by the top (210mm).
?
l¡¯ll use a template to pattern route the curve after I¡¯m completely satisfied with the joinery. And then another tricky part is headed my way: I have to edge laminate 2mm solid Zebrano onto the front edges
of all the curved uprights. I¡¯ve agonised over this because I could not cut the curves and laminate before machining the joints because I needed parallel edges. Adding the solid wood lamination to the edge after the machining is going to be time consuming
and I¡¯m not sure how best to do it. I could apply over long sections to each curved edge (between shelves) and then flush them, but how?
?
- Router (risk of splinters)
- Chisel (not looking forward to that)
- Flush cut hand saw (might be the best option)
- Cut the lamination exactly to length and glue it exactly in position¡
?
If I used the flush cut handsaw, I could use overlength Zebrano pieces (but maintaining continuous grain) and then not stress the clamping process. I guess after that many cuts (224 to be precise) I¡¯ll be
pretty good with the flush cut saw? Thanks for your brainstorming thoughts!
?
?
?
Lucky
?
Hi David B and Michael:
?
Funny you should mention the flatbed CNC. Although not the same, I have been pondering how much use I¡¯d get out of a Shaper Origin. That tool would fit nicely somewhere in my shop!
?
Thanks David for your vote on the vertical method. I think the clean corners are swaying me strongly for that option. I¡¯ve wondered if I make a very accurate registration jig and use a small pattern bit (I
can get an 8mm dia. bit from across town) to establish the majority of the 20mm flat across the joint, then there would be very little chisel work at all:
?
¡¤????????
corners squared by the saw blade
¡¤????????
majority of waste drilled out
¡¤????????
shoulder established by the pattern bit
¡¤????????
minor chisel work to finish.
?
Your jig making has always been a source of inspiration for me. Your lock mitre jig is especially egregious! I absolutely love it. Of course, now I know I should have made a much larger vertical jig that does
not depend on the crosscut fence for registration. Something like what you¡¯ve done would have been much better. Cheers.
?
Lucky
?
I actually like your original concept of using the rip as a bump-stop, a 400mm blade cutting both edges, and a jig on the crosscut fence to hold the material vertically. ?Here¡¯s a couple more jig I¡¯ve made
to stimulate your thinking. ?I could quibble over the actual jig configuration (hence these photos of jigs I¡¯ve made to hold vertical materials on the slider as food for thought).
This is for cutting lock miter joints:?
 ??
This one is for finger joints - which is a shallower type of thing you are doing:
?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Jul 9, 2024, at 3:18?PM, David Luckensmeyer via groups.io <dhluckens@...> wrote:
?
Oh wow! The video came through. I love it. No one would even think the drawer is there! Thanks for sharing.
?
Lucky
?
Lucky, as I further thought about my suggestion I realized it was lunacy. I think you are correct about returning to the horizontal setup. I know we are talking about a lot of work for 280 repititions!?
I had a few do overs and re-designs as I progressed but ultimately was very happy with the result.?
To answer?your question, it is a drawer that holds DVD¡¯s on the bottom level, and Blu-rays on the top level as they are both different size cases. The drawer was incorporated into a raised panel staircase
I built 30 years earlier and had always planned to make a drawer similar.
There is hopefully an attached video below showing final install??
The CMT was excellent; best dado I ever had but I ran it on a cabinet saw, not on my K700S. I used a simple ¡°box joint jig¡± that we all learned in woodworking 101 but made a mistake thinking I could do the
sides separately and still have things line up. A couple of tries changing methodology were necessary. The drawer empty without the drawer front was over 75 lbs made of Maple. I used Blum slides (Blumotion) with ?¡°Tip-on¡± added for push to open tech to eliminate
visible exterior hardware.
?
On Tue, Jul 9, 2024 at 5:41?PM David Luckensmeyer via
<dhluckens=[email protected]> wrote:
Imran:
?
Thanks for your ideas. You¡¯re correct about the slotting blade. If I go the vertical machining route I¡¯ll need nearly every bit of the 400mm blade¡¯s depth of cut. If I were to go back to the horizontal setup,
I could remount the dado blade, set it to maximum height, and make a partial cut. This may well be a better solution because it gives me the exact width (to match the existing shallower trenches).
?
You have rightly identified the time-wasting point of needing to take two passes (minimum) and then deal with the waste by drilling a hole with a forstner bit to get rid of the septum. I would then have to
mark and chisel the waste which is fine for 1-10 joints, but not 280 trenches¡
?
Brian:
?
That looks awesome what you¡¯ve made. Is it a drawer insert for plates? I¡¯m very curious what you thought of the new CMT dado stack? What did you like? What didn¡¯t you like? Thanks for sharing. I¡¯d rather not
run two 400mm blades on the slider. So much to go wrong! EEK.
?
Joe:
?
Love those jigs. Pictures speak volumes. So many ideas to learn from. Thank you.
?
Methodology Quiz
How would you make 280 non-through cuts that have to be precisely machined at 125mm deep and 20mm wide?
?
- Vertical method as discussed to date using the 400mm sawblade, to make two cuts to establish each shoulder, drilling out the waste, and then A) mark a line and use a chisel
to square up the joint, or B) use a router and small pattern bit to establish the shoulder and then chisel out the corners.
?
- Horizontal method using the same dado stack that machined the shallow trenches, dado raised all the way up for the stopped cut, and then employ either option A or B above to
clean up the joint.
?
- Rely on the existing shoulders of the trenches (5mm deep on both sides), and use a router and pattern bit to obtain the 125mm ¡°half lap¡± joint, and then square up the joint
using option A or B above.
?
- Something else?
?
I personally can¡¯t see a way to avoid handwork of some kind. The reason why I favour the vertical method (as I¡¯m calling it) is because I can get precise and square internal corners for the stopped cuts. I
find it much easier to clean out the waste if the corners are already established. I have never liked chiselling corners square, even with a square chisel (e.g. Veritas). And I would
hate chiselling 560 corners!
?
Thanks in advance for your input,
Lucky
?
I have another more stable jig for demonstrating tenoning on the slider that could be adapted for this also.
?
|
Oliver redesigned the 299 to the square corner casting in the 1960's.? It is possible that grease was used rather than oil, even for the cutter bearings.? I'll find out.? I had a late model 299 but memory fails me.? My Oliver jointer ran iso 68 but the planer
might be grease.? Chuck Hess should know for sure.? He has a thread on a rehab of a 299 .? Look for Hesswoodworks.? Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
[Edited Message Follows]
Amazing. Thank you david! I could not find the info for the life of me.
Being a later end of the second generation design (1968 or so), everything has zerk fittings.
|
Amazing. Thank you david! I could not find the info for the life of me.
Being a later end of the second generation design (1968 or so), everything has zerk fittings.
|
Oliver generally used a 68 ISO recirculating oil for bearings.? Mobil DTE heavy /medium.? I don't remember any gear oil but it has been years since I sold my 299.? I contacted a friend who knows all things Oliver and will post when he answers.? Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks for the advice. Just drained the oil and it was super thick. Seems the 75w-90 synthetic I got is very thin. I will probably return it and search for dte
|
Re: Sliding Table ¡°90 Degree Jig¡±
#sawsetup
Hi FOG:
?
By way of update, the aforementioned Leitz blade is phenomenal. It cuts as smoothly as any blade I¡¯ve owned which is saying something for such a large blade with relatively narrow kerf width of 3.5mm. The
details appear again here, just in case anyone else wants to consider it as a 400mm blade option: item number 133130, 400mm diameter, 3.5mm kerf. 2.5mm body, 30mm bore, 96 teeth, 10 degree irregular pitch, ATB.
?
This is the first time I¡¯ve used a blade of this size. The dust it throws off is horrendous; I assume it has something to do with making 125mm and 135mm deep cuts. My 3M Dustmaster is in continuous use.
?
?
This is very fine dust from a couple of hours work at the saw:
?
In the end, the powered rip fence and associated programming has been gold. I¡¯ve used the special programs on the overhead display a lot, including rebating, trenching, etc., but I must say that I have not
really used the specific programming mode for the Kappa 400. It is wonderful.
?
There are 10 program positions, and each of those 10 has 100 spaces to enter specific parameters that can be called up at the press of an arrow key and the start button on the overhead display. You can imagine
its use as follows. For the first half lap joint, I needed a cut at 125mm deep, at 120mm from the end of the Zebrano board. So for P1 (where ¡°P¡± stands for ¡°Program¡±), number 1, I¡¯ve entered 125mm blade height, 0 degrees blade tilt, and 120mm rip fence position.
It works out that I need the fence (which is acting as a bump stop) to move over 16.1mm to give the half lap width I need, so I¡¯ve programmed the number 2 position with 125mm blade height, 0 degrees blade tilt, and 136.1mm rip fence position for the second
cut (i.e. both shoulders of the lap joint). And so forth and so on for all 7 half lap joint positions along the bookcase upright. After 4 cuts, my rip fence is out at about 1150mm. So at this point I have to flip the upright end for end and start again on
the final 3 shelf positions (working from the top of the uprights). This is made easy using the programming on the Kappa 400. Obviously my uprights all need to be dimensioned accurately which I have done.
?
I forgot to say that I could not use special programming function which the Kappa 400 offers, where the rip fence can be programmed for a number of grooves or trenches of a specific width and depth, at fixed
intervals. The reason? Because my shelves are deeper at the bottom and much shallower at the top, so the position of each half lap joint on the uprights is of decreasing distance (from the bottom up) and increasing distance (from the top down). Programming
mode made this process easy. Seems like cheating. Comparing uprights at random, and I¡¯d say the 0.1mm claimed tolerance is verified. I¡¯ve used lots of compressed air between cuts to make sure registrations are accurate, and I¡¯d say the Kappa 400 has worked
as advertised. I strongly recommend a Felder powered rip fence as a wonderful option.
?
Anyway, the 3.5mm blade width allowed for 6 passes to remove the waste for each half-lap joint. No drilling, no knocking out timber, no marking lines, and definitely no chiselling. I¡¯ve decided I can live
with the bumpy but regularly reliable surface in the middle of each half lap joint.
?
?
Last night I assembled the first and smallest of the bookcases. It went together very nicely but I think I¡¯m going to tweak the Walnut shelves (through the wide belt sander) so the fit is less tight. In the
picture below, you¡¯ll see the upper shelves don¡¯t seem the correct width. That¡¯s because the uprights have not been curved yet, to reflect the design where shelves at the bottom are full depth (260mm) while the shelves become less deep by the top (210mm).
?
l¡¯ll use a template to pattern route the curve after I¡¯m completely satisfied with the joinery. And then another tricky part is headed my way: I have to edge laminate 2mm solid Zebrano onto the front edges
of all the curved uprights. I¡¯ve agonised over this because I could not cut the curves and laminate before machining the joints because I needed parallel edges. Adding the solid wood lamination to the edge after the machining is going to be time consuming
and I¡¯m not sure how best to do it. I could apply over long sections to each curved edge (between shelves) and then flush them, but how?
?
- Router (risk of splinters)
- Chisel (not looking forward to that)
- Flush cut hand saw (might be the best option)
- Cut the lamination exactly to length and glue it exactly in position¡
?
If I used the flush cut handsaw, I could use overlength Zebrano pieces (but maintaining continuous grain) and then not stress the clamping process. I guess after that many cuts (224 to be precise) I¡¯ll be
pretty good with the flush cut saw? Thanks for your brainstorming thoughts!
?
?
?
Lucky
?
Hi David B and Michael:
?
Funny you should mention the flatbed CNC. Although not the same, I have been pondering how much use I¡¯d get out of a Shaper Origin. That tool would fit nicely somewhere in my shop!
?
Thanks David for your vote on the vertical method. I think the clean corners are swaying me strongly for that option. I¡¯ve wondered if I make a very accurate registration jig and use a small pattern bit (I
can get an 8mm dia. bit from across town) to establish the majority of the 20mm flat across the joint, then there would be very little chisel work at all:
?
¡¤????????
corners squared by the saw blade
¡¤????????
majority of waste drilled out
¡¤????????
shoulder established by the pattern bit
¡¤????????
minor chisel work to finish.
?
Your jig making has always been a source of inspiration for me. Your lock mitre jig is especially egregious! I absolutely love it. Of course, now I know I should have made a much larger vertical jig that does
not depend on the crosscut fence for registration. Something like what you¡¯ve done would have been much better. Cheers.
?
Lucky
?
I actually like your original concept of using the rip as a bump-stop, a 400mm blade cutting both edges, and a jig on the crosscut fence to hold the material vertically. ?Here¡¯s a couple more jig I¡¯ve made
to stimulate your thinking. ?I could quibble over the actual jig configuration (hence these photos of jigs I¡¯ve made to hold vertical materials on the slider as food for thought).
This is for cutting lock miter joints:?
 ??
This one is for finger joints - which is a shallower type of thing you are doing:
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David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Jul 9, 2024, at 3:18?PM, David Luckensmeyer via groups.io <dhluckens@...> wrote:
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Oh wow! The video came through. I love it. No one would even think the drawer is there! Thanks for sharing.
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Lucky
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Lucky, as I further thought about my suggestion I realized it was lunacy. I think you are correct about returning to the horizontal setup. I know we are talking about a lot of work for 280 repititions!?
I had a few do overs and re-designs as I progressed but ultimately was very happy with the result.?
To answer?your question, it is a drawer that holds DVD¡¯s on the bottom level, and Blu-rays on the top level as they are both different size cases. The drawer was incorporated into a raised panel staircase
I built 30 years earlier and had always planned to make a drawer similar.
There is hopefully an attached video below showing final install??
The CMT was excellent; best dado I ever had but I ran it on a cabinet saw, not on my K700S. I used a simple ¡°box joint jig¡± that we all learned in woodworking 101 but made a mistake thinking I could do the
sides separately and still have things line up. A couple of tries changing methodology were necessary. The drawer empty without the drawer front was over 75 lbs made of Maple. I used Blum slides (Blumotion) with ?¡°Tip-on¡± added for push to open tech to eliminate
visible exterior hardware.
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On Tue, Jul 9, 2024 at 5:41?PM David Luckensmeyer via
<dhluckens=[email protected]> wrote:
Imran:
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Thanks for your ideas. You¡¯re correct about the slotting blade. If I go the vertical machining route I¡¯ll need nearly every bit of the 400mm blade¡¯s depth of cut. If I were to go back to the horizontal setup,
I could remount the dado blade, set it to maximum height, and make a partial cut. This may well be a better solution because it gives me the exact width (to match the existing shallower trenches).
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You have rightly identified the time-wasting point of needing to take two passes (minimum) and then deal with the waste by drilling a hole with a forstner bit to get rid of the septum. I would then have to
mark and chisel the waste which is fine for 1-10 joints, but not 280 trenches¡
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Brian:
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That looks awesome what you¡¯ve made. Is it a drawer insert for plates? I¡¯m very curious what you thought of the new CMT dado stack? What did you like? What didn¡¯t you like? Thanks for sharing. I¡¯d rather not
run two 400mm blades on the slider. So much to go wrong! EEK.
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Joe:
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Love those jigs. Pictures speak volumes. So many ideas to learn from. Thank you.
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Methodology Quiz
How would you make 280 non-through cuts that have to be precisely machined at 125mm deep and 20mm wide?
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- Vertical method as discussed to date using the 400mm sawblade, to make two cuts to establish each shoulder, drilling out the waste, and then A) mark a line and use a chisel
to square up the joint, or B) use a router and small pattern bit to establish the shoulder and then chisel out the corners.
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- Horizontal method using the same dado stack that machined the shallow trenches, dado raised all the way up for the stopped cut, and then employ either option A or B above to
clean up the joint.
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- Rely on the existing shoulders of the trenches (5mm deep on both sides), and use a router and pattern bit to obtain the 125mm ¡°half lap¡± joint, and then square up the joint
using option A or B above.
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- Something else?
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I personally can¡¯t see a way to avoid handwork of some kind. The reason why I favour the vertical method (as I¡¯m calling it) is because I can get precise and square internal corners for the stopped cuts. I
find it much easier to clean out the waste if the corners are already established. I have never liked chiselling corners square, even with a square chisel (e.g. Veritas). And I would
hate chiselling 560 corners!
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Thanks in advance for your input,
Lucky
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I have another more stable jig for demonstrating tenoning on the slider that could be adapted for this also.
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DTE24 is not thick either. You might need some 90 weight differential oil if you think the thick oil is correct.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Sunday, July 14, 2024 at 03:39:17 PM MST, taylor donsker <tdonsker@...> wrote:
Thanks for the advice. Just drained the oil and it was super thick. Seems the 75w-90 synthetic I got is very thin. I will probably return it and search for dte
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Thanks for the advice. Just drained the oil and it was super thick. Seems the 75w-90 synthetic I got is very thin. I will probably return it and search for dte
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PK
David Luckensmeyer