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Re: Bandsaw blades - lesson learned

 

On Sat, Jun 29, 2024 at 05:53 PM, imranindiana wrote:
Is?Laguna LT16SEC 2.5HP 12¡± Resaw (made by Meber) from 2001 a modern saw?
?

Imran Malik


Only you can answer that, and whether it would be taken up as philosophical question about longevity,
and the unknown...
or indeed a concerned one, is up to you.
If the latter, then the only way to say that a non adjustable wheel could be, would mean demonstrating everything lines up.
well...at least on your saw anyway.



That particular Meber p400...

From what it looks to me, I'd consider it an outdated design like what was on the old Centauro NL, what became the CO...



Or the old ACM BS 540, (this one being from 1983!)
Both updated with a hub for the lower wheel shaft after those models.


Perhaps "modern" might be the wrong word here...
Should someone point out a more suitable word, then that should be used,
as in my mind I'm finding that a tad difficult, to call it premium or similar,
when Centauro, Meber and Sagittario were making some fully adjustable models in the past.


I could post a more modern version of the likes, but seems they've switched over to making non fully adjustable machines aswell! Go figure?.. as they say.

All the best
Tom


?
?


Re: Bandsaw blades - lesson learned

 

My reaction to my SCM (made in Italy) saw was the same as Imran¡¯s reaction to his Laguna. I had no idea a bandsaw could cut like that.

I have a 1¡± Resaw King on the saw. I have a 3/8¡± steel blade, but I suspect I may never use it.

Maybe I would be even more impressed with ¡°old iron¡±, but I have absolutely no interest in rebuilding some old machine.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941


Re: Bandsaw blades - lesson learned

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Tom, all three of these blades were carbide tipped and the exact same make and model. This bandsaw has always cut well in the past. The 2nd blade was a lemon as best I can tell.?


On Jun 29, 2024, at 8:24?PM, Tom Trees via groups.io <tomgwoodworks@...> wrote:

?I wouldn't expect any blade to perform well on most any modern bandsaw design,
and it will never cease to amaze me how most folks expect any different.

That's my opinion, from someone who's worked on an old and abused machine.
<SAM_7609.JPG>

<SAM_6861.JPG>


<SAM_6860.JPG>
<The right shim.jpg>

I could mention alignment of the motor is not something which can be ignored,
that is... if accurately aligning the lower wheel to the upper wheel.
<SAM_4548.JPG>


So you can understand my cynical thoughts on the matter, not to say your new blade wasn't a lemon,
just anything to do with setup, that being down to the particular saw IMO, and should the Italian's have kept up
making fully adjustable bandsaws, then everyone would be in agreement on most things by now.
i.e there would be nothing really to speculate on (bar perhaps tire condition) in this case,
and you might not have bothered fighting with the saw in order to get it to cut.

Just saying, as it seems everyone who mentions a troublesome modern saw, ultimately ends up either going with carbide blades, or indeed upgrading to ol'irn.

Just my thoughts
All the best
Tom




Re: Bandsaw blades - lesson learned

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Is?Laguna LT16SEC 2.5HP 12¡± Resaw (made by Meber) from 2001 a modern saw?

This was the first cut after installing resaw king. It is a 2x8 SPF scrap but I was so impressed (probable easy to be impressed as I had never resaw before) that I kept it in my office.

image0.jpeg

Raking light to show the blade marks

image1.jpeg

Imran Malik

On Jun 29, 2024, at 8:24?PM, Tom Trees via groups.io <tomgwoodworks@...> wrote:

?I wouldn't expect any blade to perform well on most any modern bandsaw design,
and it will never cease to amaze me how most folks expect any different.

That's my opinion, from someone who's worked on an old and abused machine.
<SAM_7609.JPG>

<SAM_6861.JPG>


<SAM_6860.JPG>
<The right shim.jpg>

I could mention alignment of the motor is not something which can be ignored,
that is... if accurately aligning the lower wheel to the upper wheel.
<SAM_4548.JPG>


So you can understand my cynical thoughts on the matter, not to say your new blade wasn't a lemon,
just anything to do with setup, that being down to the particular saw IMO, and should the Italian's have kept up
making fully adjustable bandsaws, then everyone would be in agreement on most things by now.
i.e there would be nothing really to speculate on (bar perhaps tire condition) in this case,
and you might not have bothered fighting with the saw in order to get it to cut.

Just saying, as it seems everyone who mentions a troublesome modern saw, ultimately ends up either going with carbide blades, or indeed upgrading to ol'irn.

Just my thoughts
All the best
Tom




Re: Bandsaw blades - lesson learned

 

I wouldn't expect any blade to perform well on most any modern bandsaw design,
and it will never cease to amaze me how most folks expect any different.

That's my opinion, from someone who's worked on an old and abused machine.




I could mention alignment of the motor is not something which can be ignored,
that is... if accurately aligning the lower wheel to the upper wheel.


So you can understand my cynical thoughts on the matter, not to say your new blade wasn't a lemon,
just anything to do with setup, that being down to the particular saw IMO, and should the Italian's have kept up
making fully adjustable bandsaws, then everyone would be in agreement on most things by now.
i.e there would be nothing really to speculate on (bar perhaps tire condition) in this case,
and you might not have bothered fighting with the saw in order to get it to cut.

Just saying, as it seems everyone who mentions a troublesome modern saw, ultimately ends up either going with carbide blades, or indeed upgrading to ol'irn.

Just my thoughts
All the best
Tom




Re: K700 Start up

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Well done Alex. Yes alway start at the input when suspecting power issue unless something obvious says otherwise.

If you have the time, please share a pic of the burnt plastic. Did you find any dust when you opened it? If the contacts were not allowed to mash by the dust, it can create a resistive connection which can get hot.

Imran Malik

On Jun 29, 2024, at 3:11?PM, Bespoke Woodworking via groups.io <info@...> wrote:

?Solved.

Popped the switch out , burnt plastic.

Connected directly and off the saw goes.

If I was a little more electrically inclined, I guess I would know you should always start and the wall and work your way in??

Thanks for the help Imran.

Alex


Re: K700 Start up

 

Alex,

Download an app called Camscanner....it FREE!
You can shoot (with your phone camera) a document?and send it as a highly readable PDF file that can be magnified almost with no limit!

Kind regards,

Brian D. Milidrag
Cell?248.765.8411?


On Sat, Jun 29, 2024 at 2:34?PM Bespoke Woodworking via <info=[email protected]> wrote:
I guess the forum software compresses the image?

I think I can wrap my head around tracing the AC to where its open...

I will give it a shot. Thanks Imran.


Re: K700 Start up

 

Solved.

Popped the switch out , burnt plastic.

Connected directly and off the saw goes.

If I was a little more electrically inclined, I guess I would know you should always start and the wall and work your way in??

Thanks for the help Imran.

Alex


Re: K700 Start up

 

So on the plug side of the main power switch I get 220v as I should, but on the other side of the switch when it is 'on' I get 14v?

I honestly don't know if I have cycled that switch 6x in the last 4 years.....


Re: K700 Start up

 

I guess the forum software compresses the image?

I think I can wrap my head around tracing the AC to where its open...

I will give it a shot. Thanks Imran.


Bandsaw blades - lesson learned

 

This wasn¡¯t on a felder bandsaw but the lesson is applicable.

I¡¯ve had a Jet 5HP 20¡± bandsaw for 7 years and purchased a 1 1/4¡± Laguna Resaw King blade for it about 6 years ago. I¡¯ve done a lot of rough wood ripping with it and only a little resawing but it has worked great. I¡¯ve started a project to build fourty spiral stair treads for a building on my property. These will be about 45¡± long and tapering from 14¡± to 11¡±. Every one has been templated as they vary slightly in size. They need to be 2 1/4 to 2 1/2¡± thick.

I decided to laminate 2 pieces of composite floor underlayment (AdvanTech) and then wrap it in resawn bookmatched white oak on top/bottom with solid leading and trailing edgees. (The ends are hidden by the steel.) So I have to do a lot of resawing. I bought a new blade, same size and model, and sent off the old one for resharpening. I spent about 8 hours in total working to get the new blade to cut straight. What a frustrating experience! It would veer to the outside immediately and even make a bowed cut. Feels like I have watched now every video on youtube about bandsaws and tried every variation of tracking, tension, fences, etc. with no improvements. On the positive side, I learned how to tune up the saw very well.

Finally I reached out to Laguna and after a few weeks they agreed to replace the blade. I just put the new one on, set up the bearings and the cut is so flat it¡¯s like I ran it through the jointer.

So - it may not be your saw¡­ it could be your blade!

Regards,
Michael


Re: K700 Start up

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

The image is low res and hard to read. It appears you want to short X2 terminals 4 & 1.

I recommend that you just probe with a volt meter on AC setting starting from the transformer. You will see the voltage disappear where it is open.

Imran Malik

On Jun 29, 2024, at 1:50?PM, Bespoke Woodworking via groups.io <info@...> wrote:

?Hi Imran,

Thanks for the reply, and the safety reminder.

Your points above all make sense, and it would seem like I am not getting 24VAC to the green start button, which leads me to believe its the safety cover switch. I will confirm the capacitors as well.

I have attached the wiring diagram for my machine below. I can see the limiter switch for sliding cover at #1 and #2.? I think that is the one I want to short?

Much appreciated,

Alex

<wiring.jpg>



Re: K700 Start up

 

Hi Imran,

Thanks for the reply, and the safety reminder.

Your points above all make sense, and it would seem like I am not getting 24VAC to the green start button, which leads me to believe its the safety cover switch. I will confirm the capacitors as well.

I have attached the wiring diagram for my machine below. I can see the limiter switch for sliding cover at #1 and #2.? I think that is the one I want to short?

Much appreciated,

Alex




Re: K700 Start up

 

Important Safety Advice:

In these no start situations please remove the blades. You never know when the machine is going to start and you don¡¯t want to be reaching in period and absolutely NOT with safety disabled. Still got to watch for the arbor.

Imran


Re: K700 Start up

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Alex,

?

It is difficult to help someone troubleshoot this way because after every observation there are multiple paths of action. But here is what I can share.

?

  1. There is no relay activation when power is applied. They are inactive whether power is applied or not.
  2. 24VAC (safety circuit) has many switched in series and all switches need to be closed (and wiring connections solid) for the green start switch to have 24VAC on one of its terminals. If the start switch does not have 24VAC on one of its terminals then something in the safety circuit chain is open.
  3. If you have power at the green start switch, then pressing it should engage the start relay (labeled 1KS in the wiring diagram of 2007 KF700). Once start relay is energized its contacts will energize Run Relay (labeled 1K1 below). Start relay deenergizes when green button is let go.
    1. Start cap (1C2) and run cap (1C1) are engaged while start relay is engaged. Run cap remains engaged while motor is running.
  4. I would beep out each connection of the capacitor circuit using your machine wiring diagram and be assured that everything is connected correctly.
  5. The schematic below has the sliding door for the entire opening, I believe your machine has the hinged cover for the blade area. You can bypass the door switch by shorting the wires of the switch. For example in the case below, sliding door switch is 1S3. To short this switch you will short X2 blocks terminals 4 & 5. If the machine was wired correctly, in the case below, terminal 4 should have a wire labeled 1 and terminal 5 should have a wire labeled 2.

?

HTH,

?

Imran Malik

?

?

?

From: [email protected] On Behalf Of Bespoke Woodworking via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2024 11:12 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [FOG] K700 Start up

?

[Edited Message Follows]

Hi All,

I have been through the threads on K700 start up issues and haven't been able to resolve mine. I haven't spoken to Felder yet as its a long weekend. Here are the symptoms and my steps to remedy:

1. Saw started to have intermittent starts - jiggled the saw blade door to cycle the safety switch - rotated the main power switch and saw would start again.
2. This would happen at random times, cleaned the safety switch - still happening.
3. Finally went dead - no start at all.

I swapped out the start and run caps for new on hand, they come back in good state at test, but I may have goofed their wiring positions - see below pic

I took the blade guard door wiring out and jumped the slots to see if I could bypass the safety switch to test... will this work? - see pic below

I get proper voltage from the wall to the main power switch, but I don't here any magnetic clicks when saw is plugged in or power toggle flipped....

Both fuses test as working.

The saw is single phase, 2008 K700 with a 3Kw motor.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, specifically if I should be hearing any magnetic pops when power is activated??

Much Appreciated,

Alex
Bespoke Woodworking



K700 Start up

 
Edited

Hi All,

I have been through the threads on K700 start up issues and haven't been able to resolve mine. I haven't spoken to Felder yet as its a long weekend. Here are the symptoms and my steps to remedy:

1. Saw started to have intermittent starts - jiggled the saw blade door to cycle the safety switch - rotated the main power switch and saw would start again.
2. This would happen at random times, cleaned the safety switch - still happening.
3. Finally went dead - no start at all.

I swapped out the start and run caps for new on hand, they come back in good state at test, but I may have goofed their wiring positions - see below pic

I took the blade guard door wiring out and jumped the slots to see if I could bypass the safety switch to test... will this work? - see pic below

I get proper voltage from the wall to the main power switch, but I don't here any magnetic clicks when saw is plugged in or power toggle flipped....

Both fuses test as working.

The saw is single phase, 2008 K700 with a 3Kw motor.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, specifically if I should be hearing any magnetic pops when power is activated??

Much Appreciated,

Alex
Bespoke Woodworking



Re: KF700 S Keeps throwing scoring blade belt

 

Rod,

Thanks for your thoughts, especially confirming that you do not remove the scoring blade when not in use.

My current habit, following the installation of various table inserts or blades, is to turn the main saw blade to be sure the scoring blade is below the insert and turning freely. I am not certain I was always doing that the first couple of years after purchasing the c3-31. Historically, it may have been the problem.

Steve
Nashville, TN


Re: KF700 S Keeps throwing scoring blade belt

 

Hi Steve, I have a B3, same saw aggregate as your C3.

I change my scoring saw belt at 10 year intervals whether it needs it or not :-)

My scoring saw is always left a tiny bit below the table when not in use.

Is it possible that you have prevented it from turning when using the table insert for dado cutters? That would damage the belt.

Regards, Rod.


Re: KF700 S Keeps throwing scoring blade belt

 
Edited

Thanks Brian. Mine is driven from the main motor and has the idler. Testing planarity will be a bear in there but I¡¯ll see what I can see. Not sure what would have moved it, but there has to be something going on.

FWIW, I usually set the scoring blade just below the table when not using.?


Re: KF700 S Keeps throwing scoring blade belt

 

Brian,

Thanks. Don¡¯t worry about a picture. I can see from the parts diagram for my c3-31 that one of the four pulleys is under spring tension. To install a new belt, I was instructed to lower the scoring unit to the lowest level to reduce the tension on this spring.

Steve