Keyboard Shortcuts
Likes
- Felderownersgroup
- Messages
Search
Re: Bandsaw blades - lesson learned
On Sat, Jun 29, 2024 at 05:53 PM, imranindiana wrote:
Only you can answer that, and whether it would be taken up as philosophical question about longevity, and the unknown... or indeed a concerned one, is up to you. If the latter, then the only way to say that a non adjustable wheel could be, would mean demonstrating everything lines up. well...at least on your saw anyway. That particular Meber p400... From what it looks to me, I'd consider it an outdated design like what was on the old Centauro NL, what became the CO... Or the old ACM BS 540, (this one being from 1983!) Both updated with a hub for the lower wheel shaft after those models. Perhaps "modern" might be the wrong word here... Should someone point out a more suitable word, then that should be used, as in my mind I'm finding that a tad difficult, to call it premium or similar, when Centauro, Meber and Sagittario were making some fully adjustable models in the past. I could post a more modern version of the likes, but seems they've switched over to making non fully adjustable machines aswell! Go figure?.. as they say. All the best Tom
|
Re: Bandsaw blades - lesson learned
My reaction to my SCM (made in Italy) saw was the same as Imran¡¯s reaction to his Laguna. I had no idea a bandsaw could cut like that.
I have a 1¡± Resaw King on the saw. I have a 3/8¡± steel blade, but I suspect I may never use it. Maybe I would be even more impressed with ¡°old iron¡±, but I have absolutely no interest in rebuilding some old machine. -- John Hinman Boise ID K700S and A941 |
Re: Bandsaw blades - lesson learned
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýTom, all three of these blades were carbide tipped and the exact same make and model. This bandsaw has always cut well in the past. The 2nd blade was a lemon as best I can tell.?On Jun 29, 2024, at 8:24?PM, Tom Trees via groups.io <tomgwoodworks@...> wrote:
|
Re: Bandsaw blades - lesson learned
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýIs?Laguna LT16SEC 2.5HP 12¡± Resaw (made by Meber) from 2001 a modern saw? This was the first cut after installing resaw king. It is a 2x8 SPF scrap but I was so impressed (probable easy to be impressed as I had never resaw before) that I kept it in my office. Raking light to show the blade marks Imran Malik On Jun 29, 2024, at 8:24?PM, Tom Trees via groups.io <tomgwoodworks@...> wrote:
?I wouldn't expect any blade to perform well on most any modern bandsaw design, and it will never cease to amaze me how most folks expect any different. That's my opinion, from someone who's worked on an old and abused machine. <SAM_7609.JPG> <SAM_6861.JPG> <SAM_6860.JPG> <The right shim.jpg> I could mention alignment of the motor is not something which can be ignored, that is... if accurately aligning the lower wheel to the upper wheel. <SAM_4548.JPG> So you can understand my cynical thoughts on the matter, not to say your new blade wasn't a lemon, just anything to do with setup, that being down to the particular saw IMO, and should the Italian's have kept up making fully adjustable bandsaws, then everyone would be in agreement on most things by now. i.e there would be nothing really to speculate on (bar perhaps tire condition) in this case, and you might not have bothered fighting with the saw in order to get it to cut. Just saying, as it seems everyone who mentions a troublesome modern saw, ultimately ends up either going with carbide blades, or indeed upgrading to ol'irn. Just my thoughts All the best Tom |
Re: Bandsaw blades - lesson learned
I wouldn't expect any blade to perform well on most any modern bandsaw design,
and it will never cease to amaze me how most folks expect any different. That's my opinion, from someone who's worked on an old and abused machine. I could mention alignment of the motor is not something which can be ignored, that is... if accurately aligning the lower wheel to the upper wheel. So you can understand my cynical thoughts on the matter, not to say your new blade wasn't a lemon, just anything to do with setup, that being down to the particular saw IMO, and should the Italian's have kept up making fully adjustable bandsaws, then everyone would be in agreement on most things by now. i.e there would be nothing really to speculate on (bar perhaps tire condition) in this case, and you might not have bothered fighting with the saw in order to get it to cut. Just saying, as it seems everyone who mentions a troublesome modern saw, ultimately ends up either going with carbide blades, or indeed upgrading to ol'irn. Just my thoughts All the best Tom |
Re: K700 Start up
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýWell done Alex. Yes alway start at the input when suspecting power issue unless something obvious says otherwise.If you have the time, please share a pic of the burnt plastic. Did you find any dust when you opened it? If the contacts were not allowed to mash by the dust, it can create a resistive connection which can get hot. Imran Malik On Jun 29, 2024, at 3:11?PM, Bespoke Woodworking via groups.io <info@...> wrote:
?Solved. Popped the switch out , burnt plastic. Connected directly and off the saw goes. If I was a little more electrically inclined, I guess I would know you should always start and the wall and work your way in?? Thanks for the help Imran. Alex |
Re: K700 Start up
Alex, Download an app called Camscanner....it FREE! You can shoot (with your phone camera) a document?and send it as a highly readable PDF file that can be magnified almost with no limit! On Sat, Jun 29, 2024 at 2:34?PM Bespoke Woodworking via <info=[email protected]> wrote:
|
Bandsaw blades - lesson learned
This wasn¡¯t on a felder bandsaw but the lesson is applicable.
I¡¯ve had a Jet 5HP 20¡± bandsaw for 7 years and purchased a 1 1/4¡± Laguna Resaw King blade for it about 6 years ago. I¡¯ve done a lot of rough wood ripping with it and only a little resawing but it has worked great. I¡¯ve started a project to build fourty spiral stair treads for a building on my property. These will be about 45¡± long and tapering from 14¡± to 11¡±. Every one has been templated as they vary slightly in size. They need to be 2 1/4 to 2 1/2¡± thick. I decided to laminate 2 pieces of composite floor underlayment (AdvanTech) and then wrap it in resawn bookmatched white oak on top/bottom with solid leading and trailing edgees. (The ends are hidden by the steel.) So I have to do a lot of resawing. I bought a new blade, same size and model, and sent off the old one for resharpening. I spent about 8 hours in total working to get the new blade to cut straight. What a frustrating experience! It would veer to the outside immediately and even make a bowed cut. Feels like I have watched now every video on youtube about bandsaws and tried every variation of tracking, tension, fences, etc. with no improvements. On the positive side, I learned how to tune up the saw very well. Finally I reached out to Laguna and after a few weeks they agreed to replace the blade. I just put the new one on, set up the bearings and the cut is so flat it¡¯s like I ran it through the jointer. So - it may not be your saw¡ it could be your blade! Regards, Michael |
Re: K700 Start up
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýThe image is low res and hard to read. It appears you want to short X2 terminals 4 & 1.I recommend that you just probe with a volt meter on AC setting starting from the transformer. You will see the voltage disappear where it is open. Imran Malik On Jun 29, 2024, at 1:50?PM, Bespoke Woodworking via groups.io <info@...> wrote:
?Hi Imran, Thanks for the reply, and the safety reminder. Your points above all make sense, and it would seem like I am not getting 24VAC to the green start button, which leads me to believe its the safety cover switch. I will confirm the capacitors as well. I have attached the wiring diagram for my machine below. I can see the limiter switch for sliding cover at #1 and #2.? I think that is the one I want to short? Much appreciated, Alex <wiring.jpg> |
Re: K700 Start up
Hi Imran,
Thanks for the reply, and the safety reminder. Your points above all make sense, and it would seem like I am not getting 24VAC to the green start button, which leads me to believe its the safety cover switch. I will confirm the capacitors as well. I have attached the wiring diagram for my machine below. I can see the limiter switch for sliding cover at #1 and #2.? I think that is the one I want to short? Much appreciated, Alex |
Re: K700 Start up
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi Alex, ? It is difficult to help someone troubleshoot this way because after every observation there are multiple paths of action. But here is what I can share. ?
? HTH, ? Imran Malik ? ? ? From: [email protected] On Behalf Of Bespoke Woodworking via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2024 11:12 AM To: [email protected] Subject: [FOG] K700 Start up ? [Edited Message Follows] Hi All, |
K700 Start up
Hi All,
I have been through the threads on K700 start up issues and haven't been able to resolve mine. I haven't spoken to Felder yet as its a long weekend. Here are the symptoms and my steps to remedy: 1. Saw started to have intermittent starts - jiggled the saw blade door to cycle the safety switch - rotated the main power switch and saw would start again. 2. This would happen at random times, cleaned the safety switch - still happening. 3. Finally went dead - no start at all. I swapped out the start and run caps for new on hand, they come back in good state at test, but I may have goofed their wiring positions - see below pic I took the blade guard door wiring out and jumped the slots to see if I could bypass the safety switch to test... will this work? - see pic below I get proper voltage from the wall to the main power switch, but I don't here any magnetic clicks when saw is plugged in or power toggle flipped.... Both fuses test as working. The saw is single phase, 2008 K700 with a 3Kw motor. Any help would be greatly appreciated, specifically if I should be hearing any magnetic pops when power is activated?? Much Appreciated, Alex Bespoke Woodworking |
Re: KF700 S Keeps throwing scoring blade belt
Rod,
Thanks for your thoughts, especially confirming that you do not remove the scoring blade when not in use. My current habit, following the installation of various table inserts or blades, is to turn the main saw blade to be sure the scoring blade is below the insert and turning freely. I am not certain I was always doing that the first couple of years after purchasing the c3-31. Historically, it may have been the problem. Steve Nashville, TN |
Re: KF700 S Keeps throwing scoring blade belt
Hi Steve, I have a B3, same saw aggregate as your C3.
I change my scoring saw belt at 10 year intervals whether it needs it or not :-) My scoring saw is always left a tiny bit below the table when not in use. Is it possible that you have prevented it from turning when using the table insert for dado cutters? That would damage the belt. Regards, Rod. |
Re: KF700 S Keeps throwing scoring blade belt
Thanks Brian. Mine is driven from the main motor and has the idler. Testing planarity will be a bear in there but I¡¯ll see what I can see. Not sure what would have moved it, but there has to be something going on.
FWIW, I usually set the scoring blade just below the table when not using.? |
Re: KF700 S Keeps throwing scoring blade belt
Brian,
Thanks. Don¡¯t worry about a picture. I can see from the parts diagram for my c3-31 that one of the four pulleys is under spring tension. To install a new belt, I was instructed to lower the scoring unit to the lowest level to reduce the tension on this spring. Steve |