Brett, thanks for telling me. ?I missed it but just replied.

Hello Everyone, I am selling my Felder BF6-31 Combination Machine. it is from 1994, but is still in decent shape. if you are interest, call or text at 440-390-0814, I will also send pictures.? Comes with a ton of extras, located in Cleveland Ohio

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Thanks Imran for your feedback.

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Thanks Rod, I will open up the switch box and get some contact cleaner in there as a first attempt.

Hi Philip, it sounds like the start contact in the start push button isn’t working on occasion.

There are two momentary contacts in the push button, one for the run contactor, one for the start contactor.

A bit of contact cleaner with power off may help, as will making sure you press the button completely and squarely?

Regards, Rod

Hi, I use a 40mm radius bullnose knife on builds such as counter edges.

Regards, Rod.

Hello All

I am ordering a Whitehill rebate combi head for my shaper. Since shipping is pretty expensive, I figured to add one or two profile knives that I would be likely to use. For example, I have an upcoming project that requires a bullnose.

Do you have any knives that you find versatile? The ones you end up using for multiple projects? I realize this is a highly individual question, but I thought I’d ask. Your experience might end up being mine too.

Thanks—I’m looking forward to getting this thing.

Bird Cupps

I just finished up a custom pocket door for a customer and now he wants 4 more doors (2 fixed, 2 sliding) to make a large room divider. ? The door turned out great but it took way too long to complete and I'm not looking forward to making 4 more using the same methods. ? ?I am wondering if some custom knives will make it easier.

The doors are emulating the new aluminum windows and exterior doors in the home although we are making these from poplar. ?The muntins are very small so they are just applied to a single sheet of tempered glass using black glazers tape. ? The thickness of the rails and stiles is much smaller than a ?traditional door so the joinery is rather critical for the strength of the door. ?2 of the new doors will be fixed and the 2 center doors will be on a sliding track suspended from the ceiling. ?This at least removes the "racking" stress from the frames although I still wish we could have wider rails and stiles.





You can see below how I made the first door by cutting off the profiled section of the stiles where they meet the rails


Front view


Back side view



While this method did work it was rather time consuming due to the little flat section in the beveled profile. ? What I wanted to do was just cut away the profiled section of the stiles on the dotted line below with a single cut. ? ? However you can see that I couldn't really do that without taking off the corner of the little flat section of the profile. ? What that meant was that I had to use chisels and knives instead to pare away at all these joints which really slows down a build like this. ?



This same challenge applies to all the muntins which have the similar reverse profile. ?None of this could be cut in a single step and I ending using two different machines and setups to sneak up on all these cuts. ? This is further complicated by the fact that the muntins are attached to the glass with 1/16" (1.7mm) glazer's tape. ? Trying to get the muntin profiles to drop in snug between the frame components and have just the right amount of compression into the glazer's tape was a challenge. ??

A single step cut (along dotted line) is not possible as it would once again cut off the corner of the small flat section of the profile



Here is one from the first door, ?they are tiny and delicate and cannot be cut in a single act.



Although the muntins have the same 25° angle, they are not the same depth as the stile profile so look like this where they meet the frame.






The only universal cutter block I own is the 93mm Felder head that takes 40mm tall knives. ? I may have read here that you can use 50mm knives so perhaps one of you can confirm that .



At first glance, there are 3 different knife profiles needed for this job. ? This is certainly not ideal on a combo machine KF700s as change-over and set-up time would be significant. ? ?

Below are the 3 profiles I think I would need. ? Knife #1 would cover the whole stile profile if I could use a 50mm tall cutter. ? Knives #2 and #3 ?only use part of their respective profiles and I think they could actually be combined into one as show below in blue.



?This one is added as a .jpg attachment at bottom for better viewing.




Apologies for the long thread but I have never had custom knives made and this project looks like it may be worth the effort. ? I know some of you use custom knives frequently so I am hoping someone can chime in here on whether or not this might be a good solution for the project at hand.

Thanks! ?-Rusty

I’ve had this problem with my C3-31. These guys (especially Imran) got me up and running again. Before ordering new capacitors, I’d try pulling that module out of the front of the saw and spray a little contact cleaner on any contacts or connections you see. Try to get some into the back of the start switch as well. Don’t overdo it as it will collect dust. CRC or I used Deoxit.?

?

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Assuming single phase, could be the start capacitor but it does not make sense unless there are separate capacitors for saw and J/P. Felder uses one set of start and run capacitors so I would assume so does Hammer. You can check the schematic to confirm. J/P is a harder load and if start cap was going bad it should perform worse on J/P than the saw unless you have a heavy dado installed on the saw.

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I’ll post some pics when I get home. ?I am trying to sell all at once but if I get a contract on my house I will part out. ?

I'm very interested in your ducting!

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Sorry, I misunderstood your question. ? A handheld router is not a substitute for a mill simply because you can’t slow it down enough, control the tool path, or keep the part cool. ?I do use a handheld router in a fixture specifically designed for chamfering and deburring the corners of parts (details here: ?https://flic.kr/s/aHsmCSkwqP ), but I wouldn’t attempt much else with a handheld router or than round-over and chamfering. ?I have successfully cut aluminum plate on my Felder sliding table saw, but it requires tremendous care and constant retraction and cooling, otherwise the off-cut chips will weld to the saw blade tips.

Hey thanks for the info guys! I think just taking it off and keeping it on the slider.
Chris

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Which of the three current models is this one?

I'm selling my K3 Winner that was built in 2017.? 1P 220V, 3KW.

2000mm Slider
1250mm cutting width
Dado set - 8mm to 19.5mm
Scoring blade
250mm Universal blade
800mm Outfeed table
Rolling carriage (lifting bar not included)
Analogue blade angle dial
Outrigger Miter Index system
Extra miter fence (900mm) and guide (2017 version)

Asking $5,200
Located near Chicago

David, it looks like your using a proper mill, but I'm using wood working tools. I'm not so concerned with the bits ability to cut the material as I am the safety concern of machining using a profile bit with a router used for wood. I was always a "let her rip" kind of person until i lost half a finger, but now I always like to ask people with more experience before I try something new. I'd love to have the skills to run a proper mill. I've been thinking about getting a small Tormach, but I'm still on the fence. I don't have the time to learn to use a manual mill, but I'm good with cad software, and I'm certain I could learn cam relatively fast. I'm holding off because I'm sure there's more involved than learning software. I got a 3d printer and found I probably enjoy designing new tools more than I do using the tools to build things. ? ?