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Re: A bit off topic - Rough cut lumber in the metric world
Everything I have purchased has been 40mm nominal thickness. (Western Red Cedar, White Oak and European Beech.) Local wood is often available in custom sizes.
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A bit off topic - Rough cut lumber in the metric world
Hi,
In the Imperial world, rough-cut lumber is sold in approximate 1/4-inch increments for thickness. My local supplier generally has 4/4, 5/4, 6/4, 8/4, 10/4 & 12/4 stock, with 4/4 being the most common.
Are there common or standard thicknesses in metric? Or are they still about the same thicknesses, just converted to metric?
--
-- Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with a Hammer
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Re: Progress on DIY Powerdrive Alternative
The mod is complete. The video did not post, may be due to the size or my connection. Anyhow, the update can be seen here:
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On Apr 7, 2024, at 11:00?AM, Imran Malik <imranindiana@...> wrote:
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I had started this a yr ago but then it got put on the back burner. Decided to pick it up a week ago and made some progress.
Background:
If you are unlucky enough to have a Felder saw, shapers or planer with motorized elevation this might be of interest to you.
This is what my K975 saw controls look like:
<image0.jpeg>
The saw blade elevation has 2-speed raise and lower functionality- left most black knob. It is very difficult to set blade height when a dado/grove cut of certain depth is needed.
Initial Assessment:
My saw (bought used) did not come with a DRO but that was not difficult to add. The controlled raise/lower took more effort. Since it is open loop (i.e. no encoder) it is not as precise as Felder power drive. But my goal was to hit 0.005” per click and I get mostly that on average but individual clicks can be +/- 0.001”. My calibration methodology was to get 0.1” in 20 tries. I can hit that +/- 0.001”.
Here is a video that starts with blade at 2.416” and after 20 clicks is raised to 2.415”. I think this is the best I can do with an open loop control.
<Video.mov>
The circuit has the same functionality in lowering the blade and it tested fine on the bench but it is not working in situ. I will have to work on that in May when I get back home.
I tend to go with the 30mm spindle, since I’ll be able to use a bushing hat to use 1.25” cutters but not the other way around.
I also added the SCM shapers to my list of
machines.?
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Hi, since you don’t own tooling at present, you can select either the 1 1/4” or 30mm spindle.
If you already own a saw with a 30mm spindle, you can share the blades and grooving tools you own with the shaper if you have a 30mm spindle.
I would also suggest MAN rated tooling, or tooling that meets that design criteria to reduce the risk of kickback.
You’re going to love having a shaper and you’ve picked a nice feeder for it.
Regards, Rod
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Re: Stripped Bolt Removal
All this talk and my luck. ?There were 2 of these attaching the handle to the vacuum cleaner base. First screw came off with a bit of hesitation. Second one, snapped the end of the T-25 bit. Thought it was old. 2nd bit took off the lobes and rounded the head.?Luckily screw extractor worked. It was the softest screw I have ever drilled.
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On May 9, 2024, at 10:01?AM, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote: ? I don’t know if I’d want to pound on the spindle bearings… but along those lines a good impact driver or air impact with a hex bit and the clover lapping compound might do the trick. That way you get a good rotational hit but not into the spindle axis and hammer the bearings. Just need to know which direction to turn first….
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On May 8, 2024, at 11:11?PM, Jim Dayton <jd74914@...> wrote:
(Disclaimer: I’ve never used a Felder slider)?
Is there room in there to get an hand impact driver (ie: Lisle 29200)? With it you drive the bit into the screw head when you hit with the hammer and turn at the same time. They usually work for even the most stubborn of screws that are partially stripped. ?
Jim On Wed, May 8, 2024 at 7:06?PM netanel.belgazal via <netanel.belgazal= [email protected]> wrote: [Edited Message Follows] Another option you might want to try is to take an Allen key and try to glue it with epoxy to the stripped bolt. Not sure if epoxy would be strong enough to hold the Allen key when you apply pressure. ?
If that doesn't work I would try to use an angle grinder to slot the screw. so you can use a large flat head screwdriver to apply the pressure on the bolt
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Re: Particulate Matter Sensor with control output
Hi Imran,
Yes, Grit Automation will monitor air quality and turn on, and off, an air filter automatically. ?You can set the trigger points so that it will turn on at air quality levels that you set.
For more details I recommend you find Grit Automation on the internet and reach out to them. ?They provide exceptional customer service.
Good luck,
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On May 8, 2024, at 6:12 AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Hi Michael,
Are you talking about a complete air cleaner unit or a sensor which I could add to my air cleaner?
On May 8, 2024, at 8:01?AM, Michael Branning via groups.io <mtbranning@...> wrote:
? Yes, it turns on based on air quality…you can set the thresholds and to it manually from your phone also. On May 8, 2024, at 7:36?AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Hi Alex,
I assume you mean that I could turn on my air cleaner when my dust collector is on or a machine is on using Grit Automation. However, what I am after is to turn it on based upon air quality. Does grit have such a feature?
So far, I have found this and if nothing else comes along I may hack in the alarm signal to turn my air cleaner on. However, I will need to first confirm if the alarm ever comes on in my shop environment.
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On May 7, 2024, at 11:41?PM, Alex Bowlds via groups.io <aabj@...> wrote:
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Hi Imran,
Check out Grit Automation. ?I use their system to automatically start and stop my dust collector, open and close blast gates, and turn on, and off, my Jet air filter system. ?It can be used as a stand alone control for an air filter system.
Good luck,
Alex B.
On May 7, 2024, at 10:48 AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
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As I mentioned in my Dylos thread response, I would like my air cleaner to come on automatically when the air quality reaches a certain level.
Anyone aware of a meter that also has an output which I can use to turn on/off my air cleaner. Signal level or drive capability does not matter, I can manage that.
Re: Stripped Bolt Removal
I don’t know if I’d want to pound on the spindle bearings… but along those lines a good impact driver or air impact with a hex bit and the clover lapping compound might do the trick. That way you get a good rotational hit but not into the spindle axis and hammer the bearings. Just need to know which direction to turn first….
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
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On May 8, 2024, at 11:11?PM, Jim Dayton <jd74914@...> wrote:
(Disclaimer: I’ve never used a Felder slider)?
Is there room in there to get an hand impact driver (ie: Lisle 29200)? With it you drive the bit into the screw head when you hit with the hammer and turn at the same time. They usually work for even the most stubborn of screws that are partially stripped. ?
Jim On Wed, May 8, 2024 at 7:06?PM netanel.belgazal via <netanel.belgazal= [email protected]> wrote: [Edited Message Follows] Another option you might want to try is to take an Allen key and try to glue it with epoxy to the stripped bolt. Not sure if epoxy would be strong enough to hold the Allen key when you apply pressure. ?
If that doesn't work I would try to use an angle grinder to slot the screw. so you can use a large flat head screwdriver to apply the pressure on the bolt
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Re: Stripped Bolt Removal
(Disclaimer: I’ve never used a Felder slider)?
Is there room in there to get an hand impact driver (ie: Lisle 29200)? With it you drive the bit into the screw head when you hit with the hammer and turn at the same time. They usually work for even the most stubborn of screws that are partially stripped. ?
Jim On Wed, May 8, 2024 at 7:06?PM netanel.belgazal via <netanel.belgazal= [email protected]> wrote:
[Edited Message Follows]
Another option you might want to try is to take an Allen key and try to glue it with epoxy to the stripped bolt.
Not sure if epoxy would be strong enough to hold the Allen key when you apply pressure.
?
If that doesn't work I would try to use an angle grinder to slot the screw. so you can use a large flat head screwdriver to apply the pressure on the bolt
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Re: Stripped Bolt Removal
If your Allen wrench still fits use clover valve grinding compound on the tool to help grip against the worn area of the cap screw. Use the compound with the rough grit to pack on the tool. Hope this helps.
Aloha, Ryan
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Re: Stripped Bolt Removal
Another option you might want to try is to take an Allen key and try to glue it with epoxy to the stripped bolt.
Not sure if epoxy would be strong enough to hold the Allen key when you apply pressure.
?
If that doesn't work I would try to use an angle grinder to slot the screw. so you can use a large flat head screwdriver to apply the pressure on the bolt
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Re: Stripped Bolt Removal
A screw extractor would work, but they tend to be hard and some times brittle…. If you bust that off in there, you are up the proverbial creek.?
Nothing would be fun…. I would try to stay away from welding, tough to get in there and who knows what the heat might do to the bearings. If the stock bolt is so easily deformed and stripped, I suspect drilling it out with successively larger drills until the head pops off is going to be the best solution, you don’t have to drill deep, just the thickness plus a little of the head… at least that is the direction I would start with.
An angle grinder would be an option as well, grind the head off and destroy the large flange washer as well, which can be replaced. You would end up with a crap ton of metal and abrasive grit in the machine though, maybe proper masking off would help.
I would want to know what thread it is, right or left handed…. And yes, there are machines out there both ways, my KF700 had a right hand thread. I can’t say for certain which machines are right vs. left, so proceed with caution, or the knowledge before hand from either Felder or someone with your exact machine.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
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On May 8, 2024, at 3:27?PM, Philip Davidson <pgdiv4@...> wrote:
MyK700 pro bolt definitely turns counterclockwise to loosen. ?Did Felder change that over the years? ?I always clean any sawdust out before I loosen or tighten. ?
Philip Davidson
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Philip
davidsonukuleles.com
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Re: Stripped Bolt Removal
MyK700 pro bolt definitely turns counterclockwise to loosen. Did Felder change that over the years? I always clean any sawdust out before I loosen or tighten.
Philip Davidson
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Philip
davidsonukuleles.com
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Re: Stripped Bolt Removal
On Mon, May 6, 2024 at 05:27 PM, <jppetricca@...> wrote:
How would you guys go about removing this?
I would first try to drill the head off, but if either access or hardness preclude that I'd try to weld something onto the head of the damaged bolt. Another option is to use a die grinder to remove the head.? I don't know anything about the K940 but, if necessary, it must be possible to remove the spindle assembly from the machine so that it's easier to work on. If all else fails, accept that you need to sacrifice the retaining washer and use an angle grinder with a cutting disc. Dave
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Re: Stripped Bolt Removal
Brian,
If it can be drilled then would screw extractor work? They make them for both right and left hand threads.
FWIW, I did order a replacement bolt for K975 after buying it used with a buggured up bolt. I was afraid, I will be in this situation.
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On May 8, 2024, at 4:08?PM, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote: ? I’d find out what size the bolt is, make sure it’s left hand or right hand thread, and then start drilling down the center of it with slightly larger drill bits until the drill pops the head off the bolt. At that point the large washer should come off exposing enough of the bolt to grab with vise grips and remove.?
Either replace with the factory replacement, or, stack a thick washer into the hole and use a hex head bolt that would protrude enough to use a normal hex wrench to remove.
Before I did all of that I’d contact Felder and see what their solution is, after all a new machine is under warranty.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On May 6, 2024, at 9:44?AM, Cornelius <Cornelius@...> wrote:
Hi,
Not sure what to suggest if it is completely stripped, but I just want to make sure you are trying to turn it clockwise (opposite from the usual loosening turn). Sorry if this is obvious.
My brand new saw actually shipped with an almost stripped hex nut a few months ago (I guess Felder striped it themselves during test runs). I find the implementation of this bolt utterly ineffective since it could certainly stick out a touch in order to get a different grip on it once it has stripped? Or some stronger material?
I am definitely hoping for someone with a good answer as to how this bolt can be removed, as mine is bound to be fully stripped after only a few more blade changes? ....
Cornelius Schultze-Kraft? Cyprus
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Re: Stripped Bolt Removal
I’d find out what size the bolt is, make sure it’s left hand or right hand thread, and then start drilling down the center of it with slightly larger drill bits until the drill pops the head off the bolt. At that point the large washer should come off exposing enough of the bolt to grab with vise grips and remove.?
Either replace with the factory replacement, or, stack a thick washer into the hole and use a hex head bolt that would protrude enough to use a normal hex wrench to remove.
Before I did all of that I’d contact Felder and see what their solution is, after all a new machine is under warranty.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
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On May 6, 2024, at 9:44?AM, Cornelius <Cornelius@...> wrote:
Hi,
Not sure what to suggest if it is completely stripped, but I just want to make sure you are trying to turn it clockwise (opposite from the usual loosening turn). Sorry if this is obvious.
My brand new saw actually shipped with an almost stripped hex nut a few months ago (I guess Felder striped it themselves during test runs). I find the implementation of this bolt utterly ineffective since it could certainly stick out a touch in order to get a different grip on it once it has stripped? Or some stronger material?
I am definitely hoping for someone with a good answer as to how this bolt can be removed, as mine is bound to be fully stripped after only a few more blade changes? ....
Cornelius Schultze-Kraft? Cyprus
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Re: Felder parallel fence help
Thanks Imran!! That is exactly what I needed.
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Wait a minute…. You seem to be mixing inches and metric. Two and a half divisions on a .0002” per 10” level would be roughly .0005” in 10”. That is roughly .012mm in 250mm. I don’t know how close you want, but that’s pretty damn good.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
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On May 8, 2024, at 11:24?AM, netanel.belgazal@... wrote:
The middle bolt is also available on the K3 slider line.
After leveling the machine with
After adjusting the leveling feet and let the saw rest for a day or so, the cast iron top moved a bit. I did a minor change and now I can see the rip fence edge is 2.5 division lines different than the? edge close to the slider. (2.5 division lines * (0.0002''/10" * 12") ~0.6 thows. Is that good enough or should I aim for higher tolerance?
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The middle bolt is also available on the K3 slider line.
After leveling the machine with
After adjusting the leveling feet and let the saw rest for a day or so, the cast iron top moved a bit. I did a minor change and now I can see the rip fence edge is 2.5 division lines different than the? edge close to the slider.
(2.5 division lines * (0.0002''/10" * 12") ~0.6 thows. Is that good enough or should I aim for higher tolerance?
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Re: Felder parallel fence help
Hi Chad,
You may find following link helpful. The x-section of the short extension table is same as the long one used by Felder parallel fence. IIRC, I predrilled for correct hole size but it was really close to start with. Tapped for the kip lever bolt size. No issues since.
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On May 8, 2024, at 12:44?PM, Chad75 via groups.io <shouldercords@...> wrote: ?Hi everyone. I'm attempting to design a parallel fence that will attach to the short Felder table extension and be removeable like the longer Felder one does. The short extensions looks like it is the same extrusion as the long one. I can tap the holes that I'm pretty sure the release clamping levers insert into, but I'm not sure how the treads in aluminum will hold up, and would like to see how Felder attaches theirs. If anyone has one and will snap a picture of the tail of it with the fence off, I will be very grateful. Thanks!
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Bill Hope
imran
rodsheridan