Re: You get what you pay for. Cheap digital fence readout.
Is your read head across the magnetic strip, or is the long direction of the read head aligned with the strip? I don¡¯t know if that makes a difference, but it seemed like the directions that came with mine showed the read head parallel to the strip.
How did you mount your strip and reader? I¡¯ve given some thought to putting one of these on my bandsaw, but have not really thought out how to do that.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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Re: You get what you pay for. Cheap digital fence readout.
Check the distance from the read head to the banding. No, it doesn¡¯t make a difference stuck to aluminum vs. steel. The only thing the read head picks up is the magnetic field from the banding.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
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On Feb 15, 2024, at 1:38?PM, Mike <mike@...> wrote:
I installed an M503L on my bandsaw fence and ran into a problem. I keep getting E07, meaning failure of magnetic field detection, or it shows miniscule changes across large distances. The only difference I noticed between this and a successful installation on my KF700 is the magnetic strip is attached to steel, rather than aluminum. Does this make a difference? Maybe I need to use the ss strip included with the M503L underneath it? Does anyone know?
<IMG_8282.JPG>
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Re: You get what you pay for. Cheap digital fence readout.
I installed an M503L on my bandsaw fence and ran into a problem. I keep getting E07, meaning failure of magnetic field detection, or it shows miniscule changes across large distances. The only difference I noticed between this and a successful installation on my KF700 is the magnetic strip is attached to steel, rather than aluminum. Does this make a difference? Maybe I need to use the ss strip included with the M503L underneath it? Does anyone know? 
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Re: Retro spiral cutter head?
Thank you for your feedback.? Does the Shelix give a high quality finish? Is anyone using another type of cutter head that they could recommend?
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On 16 Feb 2024, at 5:40?am, Bram Baert <bram.baert@...> wrote:
? Hey
Just jumped on my PC as it's easier to get the next bit of info. My experience with shelix is positive in the?way that they are very responsive to questions and updates on the?production wait time. However they can only do so much and rely on bryd to provide accurate data.? After I bought it I did have a conversation with them going back and forward a couple of times regarding my experience. Below you can find my initial review
I installed the cutter head into a Hammer C3-31. All-in-all the conversion process is relatively simple (I used a guide from JGT?) but it did take me a full day to get it done. To get it installed I had to do 2 modifications. A first was filling down the locking key of the drive pulley. The recess in the shaft wasn't deep enough (about 750 micrometer).?What bothered me more was that there was insufficient clearance between the shaft and the threads of the front nut (the real big one) to fully seat against ?the bearing. I ended up grinding down some of the threads in the nut since I didn't have appropriate washers.?
I 've done comparative measurements in terms of sound and current consumption. The sound level is between 10 and 15 dBA lower and the current consumption on my 3-phase 4HP motor is comparable, to slightly lower between the straight knifes.
In terms of cut quality, well that 's why we did it. Now I am able to plane strange grained exotic hardwoods like Azobe and Bilinga without tear-out.
As a conclusion, I would do it again but I did expect a more high end product.?
One final side note. I have my out feed table 50-100 micrometer below the top of the cutter head. This means that when using it on the C3 you are no longer able to rotate all knifes fully out of the way thus when cutting with the table saw with large overhangs on the right side of the blade, there might be some scratching on scratch prone materials.? While marking the drawing I also remembered that the 90¡ã groove on the left side should start sooner. Now the tip of the locking screw (that has the same angle on its tip as the groove) landed right on the transition between flat and angled side making less good contact than if the two angled surfaces would contact. On the original head there is no flat spot and it immediately goes from threads into the 90¡ã groove.?
? I believe at the end of conversation I did manage to explain all the points in sufficient detail. I don't know if they actually changed anything to the dimensions?/ production tolerances.
Regards Bram Hey
It's not only in Australia. They just don't want to sell it as an upgrade. I tried it several times (Belgium). In the end I bought mine through . It only mentions the A3-31 but it also works on the C3-31.?
Regards Bram Op do 15 feb. 2024 14:02 schreef Roger S < rsinden@...>: Could you get a member from a different country to get one and send to you ?
Roger On 14 Feb 2024, at 20:46, Philip Krisanski < Philip@...> wrote:
In Australia Felder will not sell me a spiral cutter head for my C3-31. My only option is an aftermarket version. Can anyone make recommendations here? Thanks? Philip? ?Thank you Jonathan
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Re: Retro spiral cutter head?
Hey
Just jumped on my PC as it's easier to get the next bit of info. My experience with shelix is positive in the?way that they are very responsive to questions and updates on the?production wait time. However they can only do so much and rely on bryd to provide accurate data.? After I bought it I did have a conversation with them going back and forward a couple of times regarding my experience. Below you can find my initial review
I installed the cutter head into a Hammer C3-31. All-in-all the conversion process is relatively simple (I used a guide from JGT?) but it did take me a full day to get it done. To get it installed I had to do 2 modifications. A first was filling down the locking key of the drive pulley. The recess in the shaft wasn't deep enough (about 750 micrometer).?What bothered me more was that there was insufficient clearance between the shaft and the threads of the front nut (the real big one) to fully seat against ?the bearing. I ended up grinding down some of the threads in the nut since I didn't have appropriate washers.?
I 've done comparative measurements in terms of sound and current consumption. The sound level is between 10 and 15 dBA lower and the current consumption on my 3-phase 4HP motor is comparable, to slightly lower between the straight knifes.
In terms of cut quality, well that 's why we did it. Now I am able to plane strange grained exotic hardwoods like Azobe and Bilinga without tear-out.
As a conclusion, I would do it again but I did expect a more high end product.?
One final side note. I have my out feed table 50-100 micrometer below the top of the cutter head. This means that when using it on the C3 you are no longer able to rotate all knifes fully out of the way thus when cutting with the table saw with large overhangs on the right side of the blade, there might be some scratching on scratch prone materials.? While marking the drawing I also remembered that the 90¡ã groove on the left side should start sooner. Now the tip of the locking screw (that has the same angle on its tip as the groove) landed right on the transition between flat and angled side making less good contact than if the two angled surfaces would contact. On the original head there is no flat spot and it immediately goes from threads into the 90¡ã groove.?
? I believe at the end of conversation I did manage to explain all the points in sufficient detail. I don't know if they actually changed anything to the dimensions?/ production tolerances.
Regards Bram Hey
It's not only in Australia. They just don't want to sell it as an upgrade. I tried it several times (Belgium). In the end I bought mine through . It only mentions the A3-31 but it also works on the C3-31.?
Regards Bram Op do 15 feb. 2024 14:02 schreef Roger S < rsinden@...>: Could you get a member from a different country to get one and send to you ?
Roger On 14 Feb 2024, at 20:46, Philip Krisanski < Philip@...> wrote:
In Australia Felder will not sell me a spiral cutter head for my C3-31. My only option is an aftermarket version. Can anyone make recommendations here? Thanks? Philip? ?Thank you Jonathan
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Re: Retro spiral cutter head?
Hey
It's not only in Australia. They just don't want to sell it as an upgrade. I tried it several times (Belgium). In the end I bought mine through . It only mentions the A3-31 but it also works on the C3-31.?
Regards Bram
Op do 15 feb. 2024 14:02 schreef Roger S < rsinden@...>: Could you get a member from a different country to get one and send to you ?
Roger On 14 Feb 2024, at 20:46, Philip Krisanski < Philip@...> wrote:
In Australia Felder will not sell me a spiral cutter head for my C3-31. My only option is an aftermarket version. Can anyone make recommendations here? Thanks? Philip? ?Thank you Jonathan
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Re: Felder Dado and Shaper cutter questions
This looks a lot like 401-136 since the belt grove is elevated. What would you consider selling it for?
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Re: Retro spiral cutter head?
Hi Philip,
I came across there spiral heads once, but have no personal experience with?them. Have it look or contact them if they don't have the head listed you need.
Best of luck!
Cornelius Schultze-Kraft? Cyprus?
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Re: Retro spiral cutter head?
Could you get a member from a different country to get one and send to you ?
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On 14 Feb 2024, at 20:46, Philip Krisanski < Philip@...> wrote:
In Australia Felder will not sell me a spiral cutter head for my C3-31. My only option is an aftermarket version. Can anyone make recommendations here? Thanks? Philip? ?Thank you Jonathan
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Re: Retro spiral cutter head?
In Australia Felder will not sell me a spiral cutter head for my C3-31. My only option is an aftermarket version. Can anyone make recommendations here? Thanks?
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On 15 Feb 2024, at 6:34?am, Trevor Lusty <trevlusty@...> wrote:
?Thank you Jonathan
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Re: Retro spiral cutter head?
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Re: Retro spiral cutter head?
On 14-2-2024 18:28, Trevor Lusty wrote: Did I imagine it, or did someone post a good while ago, that they successfully retro fitted a spiral cutter head into a Hammer planner. Yes, it is in the files section written by Mark Thomas: /g/felderownersgroup/files/How%20tos,%20modifications,%20and%20other%20notes/Hammer%20C3-31%20planer%20head%20removal%20notes.pdf And here is another post with attachment by John Terdik: /g/felderownersgroup/message/117051Kind regards, Jonathan
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I noticed these have been listed to woodweb with a contact phone number and link to a more complete auction catalog. I would check there.?
I bought a FAT 500 from them earlier this month.?
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Retro spiral cutter head?
Did I imagine it, or did someone post a good while ago, that they successfully retro fitted a spiral cutter head into a Hammer planner.
I have a noise problem with my C3- 31 and I don't really want to change it for separates.
Thanks guys.
Trevor Lusty
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Hi Terry,?
?
I happen to be carrying out a calibration on my dual 51. I had not noticed the change in tone on the elevation motor before but I certainly hear it. It sounds like something turning on and winding up. Does not sound like a fan unless it is very high RPM.
?
But here is the thing. Since I know about when it comes on, if I stop the table movement before the sound, and then elevate in increments, the sound does not come on. So for me it is from motor but no vibration and no loud bang, just a change in noise that stays consistent.
?
Not sure if a new machine does the same or not and whether it is the same as yours. Also noted that it only does that on elevation, presumably due to high load; but not when table is lowered. If it is a cooling mechanism, it may always be on in warm weather and not as noticeable. Just a data point and guesses. Maybe other Dual 51 owners can help.6
?
Here is the audio from my machine from going from the bottom to the top. In this audio, the tone change starts at ~12 sec point and then again (after I stop and start) at 27.5 sec mark.
?
?
?
On Feb 13, 2024, at 8:07?AM, Terence via groups.io <terencewoolston@...> wrote:
I have a Format 4, Dual 51 and two Maintenance issues need to be resolved:
1. ?I rotated all the carbide inserts for the second time. ?Three of the inserts are being stubborn...the torx bit simply shears off prior to extraction. ?I thought maybe cheap torx driver was the problem but same with a Snapon. ?I also used an impact driver with same result. ?The inserts were not over-torqued during install. ?I thought about grinding out the insert and applying heat to the torx screw but am open to suggestions.
2. ?I have power drive on the planer. ?During a portion of the travel from say an inch to 5 inches open I get a loud vibration noise. ?I have pulled the access plates and cleaned everything to no avail. ?The sound appears to originate from the two vertical stiles on either side of the planer bed. ?There are a series of adjustment screws and fittings and I suspect that somehow these are out of adjustment. ?I have had the Dual for 10 years and this is a new issue the last few months. ?The Felder documentation has no specifications for the risers.
I have not yet contacted Felder service but thought I would check in with the group expertise first.
Best, Terry
Noble Artisan Woodworks
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Re: Should rip fence be square to crosscut fence as well as blade? K975
I believe what you are seeing is the difference is toe-out of the slider versus the rip fence. ?When properly aligned the slider angles away from the saw blade as it moves forward, whereas the rip fence angles away to the right of the saw blade. ?This is to ensure that the back of the saw blade does not re-cut the material going past and create chip-out or kick-back. Therefor, if you cut material square using the crosscut fence and sliding table, then push the newly created end of the material against the rip fence, it will have a gap just as you describe.
You can set up your rip fence such then when the fence extrusion is retracted back and away from the saw blade, the toe-out is defeated yielding a rip fence that is truly parallel to the saw blade, or aligned with the end of the just- cut material from the crosscut fence. ?I have fully described how to do this in a document on. ?The link to that document is as follows:
http://tinyurl.com/RipFenceBumpStop
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Feb 13, 2024, at 1:19?PM, James Heathcock via groups.io <james.heathcock@...> wrote:
I have been attempting to use my rip fence on the right hand side of the blade as a bump stop for multiple narrow rip cuts in 8ft mdf sheets, rip fence pulled backwards to avoid any binding. With my stock tight against the long cross cut fence on the slider there is a small but visable gap at the front of the rip fence between stock and fence. In other words the stock will not sit square on both fences. Using the rip fence on its own, perfectly parallel results, using the crosscut fence alone, perfectly square results. Even, as a test, with squared stock, the gap is still there. This redeners the rip fence unusable as a bump stop as it cannot be trusted as an accurate refence. I simply cannot get my head around where adjustments need to made, or is this simply a procedure that cannot be done on a felder sliding table saw? I overcame the problem by using the rip fence as a bump stop anyway, knowing the result would be 'close' but not parralel or accurate then ran each piece again, using just the rip fence, to true them up to desired dimension. It seems a long process. Surely, there is a better way of cutting multiple 200mm strips, accurately from 8ft sheets in one cut using the slider side of the machine? I hope I have explained my issue sufficiently so someone could possibly help me. Thank you.?
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Re: Should rip fence be square to crosscut fence as well as blade? K975
James you just described my first day operating a slider. It's a feature, not a bug! Has also been discussed multitudes if you search the database....basics:
1. Yes, the bump stop is accurate if you use the same index point repeatedly. On our saw, we designate the very front lip edge of the cast iron as the bump stop point and have the analog rulers and DRO calibrated to that same matching point-in-plane on the right side of the blade.
1A. The rip fence should?not need to be pulled backwards to clear the cuts from binding. If you do, you will move front edge of the fence more narrow so the longer your pieces applied to the to bump-stop, the more your length is in error as it will contact the front edge of the rip fence rather than the desired bump stop point - this is explained in #2, below:
2. The saw is set up to have clean cuts left of the blade using the slider, with saw toe-out calibrated for that operation, and also when using rip fence to right of saw. Obviously the two are conflicting references, so the answer is that the rip fence and slider travel end up slightly off-square from each other. Close enough, however,? to fool a beginner user into thinking they should be square to each other when they are not. An exaggerated?conceptualization a saw blade running?vertical, bisecting the letter "V" formed by legs of the sliding carriage and the rip fence , but the bisection is only 0.002-0.003" out of square each side as the toe-out of the blade for each operation?on each side.
3. If you haven't properly calibrated your saw for measures and alignments, this is a step that should never be skipped, and will contribute to erroneous results in addition to #1 and #2. On Tue, Feb 13, 2024 at 3:19?PM James Heathcock via <james.heathcock= [email protected]> wrote:
I have been attempting to use my rip fence on the right hand side of the blade as a bump stop for multiple narrow rip cuts in 8ft mdf sheets, rip fence pulled backwards to avoid any binding. With my stock tight against the long cross cut fence on the slider there is a small but visable gap at the front of the rip fence between stock and fence. In other words the stock will not sit square on both fences. Using the rip fence on its own, perfectly parallel results, using the crosscut fence alone, perfectly square results. Even, as a test, with squared stock, the gap is still there. This redeners the rip fence unusable as a bump stop as it cannot be trusted as an accurate refence. I simply cannot get my head around where adjustments need to made, or is this simply a procedure that cannot be done on a felder sliding table saw? I overcame the problem by using the rip fence as a bump stop anyway, knowing the result would be 'close' but not parralel or accurate then ran each piece again, using just the rip fence, to true them up to desired dimension. It seems a long process. Surely, there is a better way of cutting multiple 200mm strips, accurately from 8ft sheets in one cut using the slider side of the machine? I hope I have explained my issue sufficiently so someone could possibly help me. Thank you.?
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Should rip fence be square to crosscut fence as well as blade? K975
I have been attempting to use my rip fence on the right hand side of the blade as a bump stop for multiple narrow rip cuts in 8ft mdf sheets, rip fence pulled backwards to avoid any binding. With my stock tight against the long cross cut fence on the slider there is a small but visable gap at the front of the rip fence between stock and fence. In other words the stock will not sit square on both fences. Using the rip fence on its own, perfectly parallel results, using the crosscut fence alone, perfectly square results. Even, as a test, with squared stock, the gap is still there. This redeners the rip fence unusable as a bump stop as it cannot be trusted as an accurate refence. I simply cannot get my head around where adjustments need to made, or is this simply a procedure that cannot be done on a felder sliding table saw? I overcame the problem by using the rip fence as a bump stop anyway, knowing the result would be 'close' but not parralel or accurate then ran each piece again, using just the rip fence, to true them up to desired dimension. It seems a long process. Surely, there is a better way of cutting multiple 200mm strips, accurately from 8ft sheets in one cut using the slider side of the machine? I hope I have explained my issue sufficiently so someone could possibly help me. Thank you.?
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Re: Felder K700S (and others) Wenge Zero Clearance Inserts
FYI My inserts are quite large . On my SCMI ?SI 16 TW my whole saw assembly moves 5¡± to left of slider quite handy win ripping away from slider or pre cutting part before end profiling on shaper. Included is a 6 position turret for common positions. mac,,,
 Designing and building for 50 years
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On Feb 11, 2024, at 7:29?AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Hi Steve,
I assume you are asking for the 45 deg as the blade can be raised for 90 deg kerf. I was cutting a scarf joint on 9¡¯ long walnut boards that were 1¡¯ wide. One piece had to be cut upside down and I was concerned with tearout. I just cut it and it turned out fine.??So I probably won¡¯t not dealt with it until I need it next time.
I assume this is easy when making on CNC unless one is looking for the exact kerf width for zero clearance.
I don¡¯t really need zero clearance, just don¡¯t like small slivers falling below table.
On Feb 11, 2024, at 7:55?AM, Steven B <sb@...> wrote:
?Imran, how did you make the cut for the scoring blade?
Steve
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Mike
Nick Pappas
Jonathan Martens
imran
David P. Best