Brett,
I have to say that I’m impressed by your Fusion 360 designs. ?Features like the fluting and feet on the legs of that pedestal are clear evidence of some CAD mastery. ?
Indeed, Fusion is one place where workflow steps are really important if you want to take full advantage of the platform. ?Larry’s example of screwing with the timeline, without having planned for that aspect originally is an obvious example.
I too have been pounding on the Fusion 360 team for various features and functions since 2017. ?It wasn’t until 2021 that the facilities finally came up to a level that I felt totally comfortable abandoning my previous CAD system and committing to the Fusion learning curve. ?In talking with the product managers, I get some impressions as to why they don’t put more resources into the marketing for and development of the product for woodworking shops. ?Part of the issue is that they see woodworkers and “craftspeople” more than manufacturing oriented. ?The markets where production manufacturing are involved (cabinetry, closets, etc.) they perceive as already well served by competitors. ?I found their insistence that the nesting layout function be omitted from the personal use license completely wrong headed and let them know that. ?You would have enjoyed that discussion: “OK, just how many weekend warriors cutting up plywood for their bookshelf actually want/need a plywood layout facility?” ?
That said, they have been very responsive to my suggestions where they felt general applicability. ?One of the specific areas I’ve had the most success is in the drawing space - that aspect has come a long way in the last 4 years. ?Just last month they released a new UI for the Motion Link dialog based largely on my hammering at them about how unintuitive the previous iterations were.
But there is a long list of suggestions they continue to silently ignore. ?For instance, I’ve been after them for the ability to create a named parameter as an option during the sketch dimensioning operation, rather than having to go off to the user parameters window to create a name associated with a given dimension. ?Similarly, layer support in the drawing space has been on my list for 6 years, and their big concern with that seems to be internal fears of?cannibalization?of AutoCAD sales if that facility were added. ?There appears to be a lot of product overlap management going on in the background.
I’ve started to share some design elements on GrabCab for use by other woodworkers. ?I’ll be uploading a generalized cabinet facility in a couple of months. ?For now, my list of contributions is pretty paltry: ??. ?I wish more people would contribute to the collection. ?As you mentioned, stock molding profiles is a classic example, as well as a library of wood appearances. ?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Jun 27, 2023, at 9:31 AM, Brett Wissel <Brettwissel@...> wrote:
Mike King - Fantastic work! It looks wonderful and I love the lines. Did you use Fusion primarily to get to model/form, or did you break the whole thing down into joints/parts? I'd be interested to hear how you handled the wood-working joints workflow.
I love what Fusion360 can offer, and the parametric help so much. Here's a couple screen captures of recent design works made perfect by fusion360. The pedestal is for a replication project. That banquette was something like 16' long and 12 sheets of plywood. Upholstery representations are still not exactly real life but the forms are good enough.
Learning the right workflow to optimize workflow efficiency is a work in progress, but future projects keep getting easier and easier. And components?in one file can be inserted into others, which is very handy when you want to make CAD/CAM profiles match your real-life cutters and wood joints without having to reinvent them every time.
I agree with D Best that F360 hasn't tried very hard to meet special needs of woodworking/furniture/millwork. I've been in more than one discussion with developers seeking feedback sine 2018, made an issue about it, and never got more than a smile and a nod. The development of the nest/arrange features is the biggest I've seen for a while. Imagine?what could happen if they could generate usable parts lists and cut lists beyond the simple tables available in drawings?!? Or the ability to select molding profiles and sweep rails like the Vectric products do so easily, for all the molding rails on a project, rather than one at a time?! Or practical and efficient woodworking CAM toolpaths for CNC roughing/finishing? Or a cabinetry module that could rival Mozaik?! OR - crazy, I know - the ability to measure dimensions correctly in ortho drawing space rather than just the 2D "flat" measures?!? David B,
Very accurate summary of Shapr3d. I end up using it as a quick prototyping tool for mocking up designs with decent rendering output and quick and dirty 2D dimensional drawings (I do pay for the pro license).?
I didn't mean to imply that Shapr3d had any type of parametric capabilities, but rather just wanted to mention that you can get some nice 2D constraint based drawing tools to use in conjuction with direct modeling. I did get an email from them about an upcoming update that is supposed to enhance the interface on desktop so it feels more native rather than a (well designed) mobile port.
I'm a software engineer by trade and the parametric capabilities of fusion really intrigued me early on. So much so that I started off by going way overboard and parameterizing everything, as if I was designing an app or something. I got the impression that if one were to become very proficient in fusion, it would open the doors to a very nice design workflow. I unfortunately didn't get to that point (yet) as I wanted to spend more of my free time getting better at woodworking rather than learning the software. That's why Shapr3d ultimately won out for me in the near term.
If I were designing furniture for customers, the ability to quickly change a parameter and have the number of drawers dynamically adjust, resize, and maintain spacing would be a huge win for sure.
After I finish up some projects, I'll try to give it another go (especially with the Delete vs Remove tip!).?
--
Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Re: Troubleshooting Problems with Felder Machines
David,
My question has been answered and the answer is Yes! That message could have been more generic.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 27, 2023, at 9:15 AM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
Joe, here is the more generic version:
“Read the manual provided with the machine.”? David Best - via mobile phone? On Jun 27, 2023, at 8:57 AM, bacchus6015 via groups.io <joeinno@...> wrote:
? Could this message be anymore generic? ?
Joe
On Jun 27, 2023, at 7:34 AM, ruther rocks via groups.io <rutherfordliam14nj@...> wrote:
Troubleshooting Problems with Felder Machines Felder machines are known for their quality and durability, but even the best machines can experience problems from time to time. If you are having a problem with your Felder machine, there are a few things you can do to troubleshoot the problem. 1. Start by checking the basics. The first step in troubleshooting any problem is to check the basics. Make sure that the machine is plugged in and turned on. Check the power cord and the outlet to make sure that they are not damaged. Also, check the fuses or circuit breakers to make sure that they are not tripped. 2. Check the settings. If the machine is turned on and appears to be working, but it is not working properly, check the settings. Make sure that the machine is set to the correct mode and that the settings are correct for the material you are working with. 3. Check the maintenance. Felder machines require regular maintenance to keep them in good working order. If the machine has not been properly maintained, it may be causing the problem. Check the oil levels, the belts, and the other moving parts to make sure that they are in good condition. 4. Contact Felder support. If you have checked the basics, the settings, and the maintenance, and you are still having a problem, contact Felder support. They will be able to help you troubleshoot the problem and determine the best course of action.
|
Hi Mac,
??? Can you provide some details on having the drill start
automatically when the handle is activated?? What did you use?? A
microswitch and a relay?? An aftermarket product?
On 6/25/2023 10:33 AM, mac campshure
via groups.io wrote:
Also I have my drills most set up so when handle is activated the
drill starts and whe n returned it stops and also have foot peddle
with reverse although most have that set as. Auto feature with
activation by stop.
Designing
and building for 50 years
?
I have quite a few serious drill press, B&S turrets ,
single spindle Alzmetal, Burgmaster , and Azuma Radial 10”
column .?
They all have vari pulley drive (reeves)or gear drive
with 2 speed motor .?
I would be inclined to use a two speed motor and use a
couple belt changes you only need 4 speeds is way more than
enough.
Two belt changes and high low speed on the motor mor
positive drive system that’s what the big boys do talking
machines of course and a hell of a lot cheaper and problem
free.
Designing
and building for 50 years
?My prior drill press, a Powermatic PM2800B
with a single phase 1 HP motor with mechanical variable
speed with digital readout was nice. ?It was not too
powerful, which was good, but my larger Forstner drill
bits did not stop rotating when cutting wood. ?However,
I wanted a radial drill press where the table stayed
fixed and I could drill holes farther from the edge of
the wood, and I could adjust the distance chuck to wood
without the table shifting side to side like on a
standard drill press.
I went with a 3 phase vintage Delta Turner-Walker style
radial drill press that came with a smaller motor - a
0.5HP 1725 RPM motor.. ?A VFD was added. ?This was
discussed in a prior thread. ?
The VFD makes noise at all times unless the power supply
is turned off, and the larger Forstner bits stop turning
in wood, especially at lower speed.
Plan is to change to a ENC single phase 220V VFD along
with a Marathon 1 HP 1750PRM 3 phase motor. ?A friend
has a similar radial drill press but no VFD and does not
have this issue. He would have to change belts to adjust
speed as the tradeoff. ?I am hoping the upgrade will
give me the needed performance without the need for belt
changes.
When the change is made, I will provide feedback on the
performance.?
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
|
Mike King - Fantastic work! It looks wonderful and I love the lines. Did you use Fusion primarily to get to model/form, or did you break the whole thing down into joints/parts? I'd be interested to hear how you handled the wood-working joints workflow.
I love what Fusion360 can offer, and the parametric help so much. Here's a couple screen captures of recent design works made perfect by fusion360. The pedestal is for a replication project. That banquette was something like 16' long and 12 sheets of plywood. Upholstery representations are still not exactly real life but the forms are good enough.
Learning the right workflow to optimize workflow efficiency is a work in progress, but future projects keep getting easier and easier. And components?in one file can be inserted into others, which is very handy when you want to make CAD/CAM profiles match your real-life cutters and wood joints without having to reinvent them every time.
I agree with D Best that F360 hasn't tried very hard to meet special needs of woodworking/furniture/millwork. I've been in more than one discussion with developers seeking feedback sine 2018, made an issue about it, and never got more than a smile and a nod. The development of the nest/arrange features is the biggest I've seen for a while. Imagine?what could happen if they could generate usable parts lists and cut lists beyond the simple tables available in drawings?!? Or the ability to select molding profiles and sweep rails like the Vectric products do so easily, for all the molding rails on a project, rather than one at a time?! Or practical and efficient woodworking CAM toolpaths for CNC roughing/finishing? Or a cabinetry module that could rival Mozaik?! OR - crazy, I know - the ability to measure dimensions correctly in ortho drawing space rather than just the 2D "flat" measures?!?
David B,
Very accurate summary of Shapr3d. I end up using it as a quick prototyping tool for mocking up designs with decent rendering output and quick and dirty 2D dimensional drawings (I do pay for the pro license).?
I didn't mean to imply that Shapr3d had any type of parametric capabilities, but rather just wanted to mention that you can get some nice 2D constraint based drawing tools to use in conjuction with direct modeling. I did get an email from them about an upcoming update that is supposed to enhance the interface on desktop so it feels more native rather than a (well designed) mobile port.
I'm a software engineer by trade and the parametric capabilities of fusion really intrigued me early on. So much so that I started off by going way overboard and parameterizing everything, as if I was designing an app or something. I got the impression that if one were to become very proficient in fusion, it would open the doors to a very nice design workflow. I unfortunately didn't get to that point (yet) as I wanted to spend more of my free time getting better at woodworking rather than learning the software. That's why Shapr3d ultimately won out for me in the near term.
If I were designing furniture for customers, the ability to quickly change a parameter and have the number of drawers dynamically adjust, resize, and maintain spacing would be a huge win for sure.
After I finish up some projects, I'll try to give it another go (especially with the Delete vs Remove tip!).?
--
Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Re: Troubleshooting Problems with Felder Machines
Or in my case, when I received my K700S, grab your German to English translation book! ?They never sent anything in English. ??
Wade
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 27, 2023, at 9:16 AM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
? Joe, here is the more generic version:
“Read the manual provided with the machine.”? David Best - via mobile phone? On Jun 27, 2023, at 8:57 AM, bacchus6015 via groups.io <joeinno@...> wrote:
? Could this message be anymore generic? ?
Joe
On Jun 27, 2023, at 7:34 AM, ruther rocks via groups.io <rutherfordliam14nj@...> wrote:
Troubleshooting Problems with Felder Machines Felder machines are known for their quality and durability, but even the best machines can experience problems from time to time. If you are having a problem with your Felder machine, there are a few things you can do to troubleshoot the problem. 1. Start by checking the basics. The first step in troubleshooting any problem is to check the basics. Make sure that the machine is plugged in and turned on. Check the power cord and the outlet to make sure that they are not damaged. Also, check the fuses or circuit breakers to make sure that they are not tripped. 2. Check the settings. If the machine is turned on and appears to be working, but it is not working properly, check the settings. Make sure that the machine is set to the correct mode and that the settings are correct for the material you are working with. 3. Check the maintenance. Felder machines require regular maintenance to keep them in good working order. If the machine has not been properly maintained, it may be causing the problem. Check the oil levels, the belts, and the other moving parts to make sure that they are in good condition. 4. Contact Felder support. If you have checked the basics, the settings, and the maintenance, and you are still having a problem, contact Felder support. They will be able to help you troubleshoot the problem and determine the best course of action.
|
Re: Troubleshooting Problems with Felder Machines
Joe, here is the more generic version:
“Read the manual provided with the machine.”? David Best - via mobile phone?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 27, 2023, at 8:57 AM, bacchus6015 via groups.io <joeinno@...> wrote:
? Could this message be anymore generic? ?
Joe
On Jun 27, 2023, at 7:34 AM, ruther rocks via groups.io <rutherfordliam14nj@...> wrote:
Troubleshooting Problems with Felder Machines Felder machines are known for their quality and durability, but even the best machines can experience problems from time to time. If you are having a problem with your Felder machine, there are a few things you can do to troubleshoot the problem. 1. Start by checking the basics. The first step in troubleshooting any problem is to check the basics. Make sure that the machine is plugged in and turned on. Check the power cord and the outlet to make sure that they are not damaged. Also, check the fuses or circuit breakers to make sure that they are not tripped. 2. Check the settings. If the machine is turned on and appears to be working, but it is not working properly, check the settings. Make sure that the machine is set to the correct mode and that the settings are correct for the material you are working with. 3. Check the maintenance. Felder machines require regular maintenance to keep them in good working order. If the machine has not been properly maintained, it may be causing the problem. Check the oil levels, the belts, and the other moving parts to make sure that they are in good condition. 4. Contact Felder support. If you have checked the basics, the settings, and the maintenance, and you are still having a problem, contact Felder support. They will be able to help you troubleshoot the problem and determine the best course of action.
|
Re: 3 phase power plugs/outlets
Hi Aaron,
I have an AD941, an F700Z, and a KF700SP. All three are three phase machines. ?Though a neutral wire is included in the pigtail on the machine, none of them utilize the neutral.?
Hopefully that helps answer your question.?
Good luck,
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On Jun 26, 2023, at 10:27 AM, Aaron Inami <ainami@...> wrote:
?Hi all,
For those who have 3-phase Felder and Minimax equipment, what plugs/outlets are you using??? Does your equipment work fine with the L16-30P plugs and L15-30 outlets?? (those are 3 hot plus 1 ground conductors).?? Or does the Felder/Minimax equipment require a 5-wire connection with both ground and neutral conductors?
-Aaron
|
Re: Troubleshooting Problems with Felder Machines
Could this message be anymore generic? ?
Joe
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 27, 2023, at 7:34 AM, ruther rocks via groups.io <rutherfordliam14nj@...> wrote:
Troubleshooting Problems with Felder Machines Felder machines are known for their quality and durability, but even the best machines can experience problems from time to time. If you are having a problem with your Felder machine, there are a few things you can do to troubleshoot the problem. 1. Start by checking the basics. The first step in troubleshooting any problem is to check the basics. Make sure that the machine is plugged in and turned on. Check the power cord and the outlet to make sure that they are not damaged. Also, check the fuses or circuit breakers to make sure that they are not tripped. 2. Check the settings. If the machine is turned on and appears to be working, but it is not working properly, check the settings. Make sure that the machine is set to the correct mode and that the settings are correct for the material you are working with. 3. Check the maintenance. Felder machines require regular maintenance to keep them in good working order. If the machine has not been properly maintained, it may be causing the problem. Check the oil levels, the belts, and the other moving parts to make sure that they are in good condition. 4. Contact Felder support. If you have checked the basics, the settings, and the maintenance, and you are still having a problem, contact Felder support. They will be able to help you troubleshoot the problem and determine the best course of action.
|
Hello F.O.G.,
We all know how bad the directions in Felder manuals can be. I’m wanting to level my new AD941, but a bit confused on what they are trying to show in the manual regarding the leveling of the machine. They say to use a spirit level to get the machine level. But they are also showing, in a diagram, a “leveling pin”.
Does this machine have leveling feet all around it? I lifted the machine up off the floor with my pallet jack and found the one leveling pin, but does the rest of the machine need a set of leveling feet installed on it?
Thank You group for any insight you can add,
Wade
|
Troubleshooting Problems with Felder Machines
Troubleshooting Problems with Felder Machines
Felder machines are known for their quality and durability, but even the best machines can experience problems from time to time. If you are having a problem with your Felder machine, there are a few things you can do to troubleshoot the problem.
1. Start by checking the basics.
The first step in troubleshooting any problem is to check the basics. Make sure that the machine is plugged in and turned on. Check the power cord and the outlet to make sure that they are not damaged. Also, check the fuses or circuit breakers to make sure that they are not tripped.
2. Check the settings.
If the machine is turned on and appears to be working, but it is not working properly, check the settings. Make sure that the machine is set to the correct mode and that the settings are correct for the material you are working with.
3. Check the maintenance.
Felder machines require regular maintenance to keep them in good working order. If the machine has not been properly maintained, it may be causing the problem. Check the oil levels, the belts, and the other moving parts to make sure that they are in good condition.
4. Contact Felder support.
If you have checked the basics, the settings, and the maintenance, and you are still having a problem, contact Felder support. They will be able to help you troubleshoot the problem and determine the best course of action.
|
David B,
Very accurate summary of Shapr3d. I end up using it as a quick prototyping tool for mocking up designs with decent rendering output and quick and dirty 2D dimensional drawings (I do pay for the pro license).?
I didn't mean to imply that Shapr3d had any type of parametric capabilities, but rather just wanted to mention that you can get some nice 2D constraint based drawing tools to use in conjuction with direct modeling. I did get an email from them about an upcoming update that is supposed to enhance the interface on desktop so it feels more native rather than a (well designed) mobile port.
I'm a software engineer by trade and the parametric capabilities of fusion really intrigued me early on. So much so that I started off by going way overboard and parameterizing everything, as if I was designing an app or something. I got the impression that if one were to become very proficient in fusion, it would open the doors to a very nice design workflow. I unfortunately didn't get to that point (yet) as I wanted to spend more of my free time getting better at woodworking rather than learning the software. That's why Shapr3d ultimately won out for me in the near term.
If I were designing furniture for customers, the ability to quickly change a parameter and have the number of drawers dynamically adjust, resize, and maintain spacing would be a huge win for sure.
After I finish up some projects, I'll try to give it another go (especially with the Delete vs Remove tip!).?
--
Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood
|
I feel a bit compelled add a few comments with regard to Larry’s post below. ?I looked seriously at several alternative CAD environments three years ago when I was making a commitment to move onto a new platform. ? Shapr3D was among the many I looked at, and to be sure, it has some very compelling aspects. ?Over the past 3 years it has really advanced, both in capability and platform support. ?Shapr3D roots are in the tablet (specifically iPad) space, and as 3D modeling applications go, it’s truly amazing what it can do with an iPad and the Apple Pencil. ?It’s now available on both the Mac and PC as well, and like Larry says, it does fill a sweet spot between a parametric system like Fusion 360 and something like SketchUp or Visio Pro. ?The user interface is very clean, and the learning curve is certainly less steep than trying to choke down Fusion 360. ?Compared to SketchUp, Shapr3D would be a far superior choice for a newbie IMO. ?
Shapr3D and Fusion share a lot of concepts common to most 3D modeling platforms: you design with 2D sketches that are used to create or alter 3D objects. ?A lot of the facilities for making a sketch or deriving a 3D component from a sketch have almost identical roots, but with substantially different User Interfaces. ?The Shapr3D UI is exceptionally uncluttered and clean - as you’d expect for an iPad application. ?And it has a great set of guidance tutorials for someone new. ?It’s is a viable platform for someone wanting to quickly design a part to send to a 3D printer, or a one-off woodworking project. ?But it has some serious limitations, at least for me. ?
First off, it is NOT a true parametric system. ?You can’t for instance drive a design from a set of parameters like you can with Fusion 360 or some of the other more capable systems. ? The term coined to represent Shapr3D type of modeling approach is 'Direct Modeling'. ?There is no timeline in Shapr3D, so going back and correcting or altering previous operations is not directly supported. ?And the sketch management aspects are severely lacking IMO. ?I have spent a sold day messing with Shapr3D current release on a Mac, and it strikes me as a quick prototyping tool more than a serious CAD system. ?And if you want to get shop drawings out of Shapr3D, you have to buy the Pro license at $300 per year. What Shapr3D brings in terms of simplicity and lower learning curve, also shows up as some pretty severe limitations in more professional or production type situations. ? The following video makes some good points about all this: ?
My two cents.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Jun 26, 2023, at 6:49 PM, Larry Long Neck <longneckwood@...> wrote:
I jumped into fusion360 a while ago without spending time to really learn the fundamentals and hit a lot of roadblocks real quick. One of the biggest issues for me was trying to delete something (like the worktop on a miter saw station) that had a bunch of other things constrained /positioned relative to it. This left me with a? broken timeline history and would throw things into chaos.
Recently I started using Shapr3d and have found it to be a nice middle ground between something like fusion360 and SketchUp. You make constraint based drawings in 2d space and then extrude them into 3d space.? After something has been extruded into 3d space though, you can directly manipulate those objects like you would in SketchUp.?
--
Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood
|
Well, I (and presumably everyone else replying) assumed that your post was seeking suggestions, rather than an announcement.
My other comment is that the idea that a 2HP motor is too dangerous for hand holding workpiece, but 1HP is safe, is misguided to put it mildly.? ?There is of course some practical difference.? Most people could manhandle 1/2HP motor running at 20% speed/power, but no human can manhandle 1HP.? Thinking that 1HP is safe to manhandle, but 2HP is not, is just a setup for injury.? ?
?
|
Re: 3 phase power plugs/outlets
First, I would note all the different voltage standards are arbitrary, originally stemming from decisions made way back by Edison and Tesla in the original electricity wars.? Most people think that 230v is a better baseline standard, and that's what Europe has because Europe was actually behind the curve.? We have 120v standard in the US because it's compatible with Edison's original somewhat random choice, not because it's inherently great.? Europe started electrification later than the US, and by that time, 230v was understood to be a better choice.? It's a lot like metric vs imperial vs whitworth. That said, two physics principles warrant pointing out.? First, three phase motors are superior to single phase? -- more efficient, self-starting, smoother.? ?Four phase or six phase or eleven phase (all real things) motors are smoother yet, but for various practical/cost reasons, 3 phases was the most practical early on, and became the common industrial standard, in parallel to the 110v single phase standard for lighting that began  Edison. The second basic physics is that higher voltage allows smaller conductors.? So the higher the wattage (total power), the higher the voltage you want, in order to minimize the wire/infrastructure cost.? ?At 250,000 volts, the wire size you use on your Felder saw could power a neighborhood. So generators (hydro dams, coal-fired, etc) produce three phase at very high voltages (250kv), and it gets transformed down to "usable" voltages the nearer it gets to the point of use.? At my day job we get 12kv from the utility, which we transform down on-premise to various voltages, ultimately to 120v for "consumer" devices.? But most small/medium industrial users get 600v, because above that it's more complicated to manage.? ?Once you get much above 600v, air is a conductor, so for example breakers have to have operate in a vacuum, or other such complexities.? ?You don't casually turn things on and off that operate at kV levels.? So although you might save money on smaller wire by having 2,000v motors vs 600v motors, you pay a premium in other other ways for higher voltage.? We have more electrical safety personnel than electricians doing electrical work. So to Brett's point, every industrial facility needs both 3 phase (for motors, etc) but also has toasters and coffee pots.? And so electrical distribution systems evolved to conveniently supply both the local standard 3P voltages (600, 500, 480, 460, 400, 240..) and the standard single phase voltages (120 or 230 almost everywhere.)? It's very simple to get any voltage off a transformer, it's really nothing more than the number of wire windings.?? To Brett's comment that neutral is "manufactured".? Well, every output of a transformer is "manufactured".? That's what a transformer does.? It's a device to manufacture some voltage different than the input voltage.? So if you have a transformer with 600v input, and you tap 240v out, and also 120v out, they are both manufactured.? ?But it's correct that it's always the last step, for practical purposes.? If you step down to 120v a mile away from the point of usage, the conductors to go the "last mile" are impractically large and expensive.? So typically a residential power pole is carrying ~5kV until the transformer that you see on the pole outside your house, which steps down to residential voltages. In this sense, "manufactured" is different than this word is most often used on FOG, ie, in relation to phase convertors.? A phase convertor manufactures a phase shift, not a voltage change.? It takes voltage in that is 180° phased, and shifts to 120° phased, basically by storing electrons for 60° of time, and then releasing them.? ? To illustrate the independence of phasing and voltage, here's one of my three phase motors.? It's 5V. 
|
Not being a motor and vintage machine restoration expert, I had the help of James Hurley?
I pointed him to the comments (thank you all) from prior discussions and he spent a lot of time reading the input. ?After that, consideration was given to a stronger AC motor/VFD combo in the original config limited by available physical mounting dimensions, C-face motor/VFD, DC Motor and controller in C-face configuration. ?Then communications with Rogers Equipment Sales and time talking to Baldor engineers. ?Consideration was given to how the motor would fit and the weight given that it tilts and nice if not too heavy etc. ?A 2HP was considered, but some pointed out that if too powerful, that can be dangerous when hand holding the wood when the bit gets stuck.
Ended up with what I posted. ?Done deal at this point. ? After all of the advice, I wanted to give the update and when it is installed and working I will see how it turns out. ?If it is quiet and drills holes properly, that will be good.
|
David B., your helpful resources links to YouTube is astounding. I’d say you need to publish a book, except that this is all video format. Is there a way to monetise your efforts to a wider audience?
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
?
In Fusion, If you want to get rid of a component that’s referenced later in the timeline, then use “Remove” instead of “Delete”. ? This action leaves all the reference context in the model but still lets you
get rid of components and bodies. ?That one tip will eliminate most of your frustrations. ?Deleting lower level sketches and construction planes is a different matter that requires a more disciplined (thoughtful) workflow - very often, reordering steps in
the timeline can be helpful in these situations. ?
?
David Best - via mobile phone?
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On Jun 26, 2023, at 6:49 PM, Larry Long Neck <longneckwood@...> wrote:
?I jumped into fusion360 a while ago without spending time to really learn the fundamentals and hit a lot of roadblocks real quick. One of the biggest issues for me was trying
to delete something (like the worktop on a miter saw station) that had a bunch of other things constrained /positioned relative to it. This left me with a? broken timeline history and would throw things into chaos.
Recently I started using Shapr3d and have found it to be a nice middle ground between something like fusion360 and SketchUp. You make constraint based drawings in 2d space and then extrude them into 3d space.? After something has been extruded into 3d space
though, you can directly manipulate those objects like you would in SketchUp.?
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Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood
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In Fusion, If you want to get rid of a component that’s referenced later in the timeline, then use “Remove” instead of “Delete”. ? This action leaves all the reference context in the model but still lets you get rid of components and bodies. ?That one tip will eliminate most of your frustrations. ?Deleting lower level sketches and construction planes is a different matter that requires a more disciplined (thoughtful) workflow - very often, reordering steps in the timeline can be helpful in these situations. ? David Best - via mobile phone?
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On Jun 26, 2023, at 6:49 PM, Larry Long Neck <longneckwood@...> wrote:
?I jumped into fusion360 a while ago without spending time to really learn the fundamentals and hit a lot of roadblocks real quick. One of the biggest issues for me was trying to delete something (like the worktop on a miter saw station) that had a bunch of other things constrained /positioned relative to it. This left me with a? broken timeline history and would throw things into chaos.
Recently I started using Shapr3d and have found it to be a nice middle ground between something like fusion360 and SketchUp. You make constraint based drawings in 2d space and then extrude them into 3d space.? After something has been extruded into 3d space though, you can directly manipulate those objects like you would in SketchUp.?
--
Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood
|
I jumped into fusion360 a while ago without spending time to really learn the fundamentals and hit a lot of roadblocks real quick. One of the biggest issues for me was trying to delete something (like the worktop on a miter saw station) that had a bunch of other things constrained /positioned relative to it. This left me with a? broken timeline history and would throw things into chaos.
Recently I started using Shapr3d and have found it to be a nice middle ground between something like fusion360 and SketchUp. You make constraint based drawings in 2d space and then extrude them into 3d space.? After something has been extruded into 3d space though, you can directly manipulate those objects like you would in SketchUp.?
--
Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood
|
Re: AD941 - Offloading from pallet
? I just unloaded my AD941, used PK’s method (narrow pallet jack, ramp, and spotter) worked great. ?
Also , forgot Felder screwed up again! ?They never installed the flip fence for narrow jointing that I ordered as an accessory. ?It’s on the order, just never made it onto the machine These guys!!!
Wade
Wade
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On Jun 26, 2023, at 3:19 PM, dale@... wrote:
?I just unloaded an AD941 at my shop. I rented a forklift with extended forks of 6'. This made it super easy as both forks can go underneath the frame with no need to use the bolts. You don't need to wrestle the unit off the pallet this way.?
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As for training, I've tried everything -- Youtube videos, Udemy classes, etc. I think the video that David Best did of the cabinet with the drawer slides was excellent, so count me in the DB video fan club should he do more (please do more David).
Thanks Kerry. ?I am working on a new Fustion 360 tutorial series now specifically oriented to the woodworker. ?The new series will be all about designing cabinets with drawers/doors using parametric attributes to define all the various characteristics.? I have also subscribed to the Product Design Online??which has a bunch of online courses on using Fusion for woodworking. It's the best I've found of anything geared to woodworkers, and I've tried them all.
I too have looked at all the available training videos for Fusion 360, and feel that the woodworker is not being well served. ?If you like Kevin Kennedy’s teaching style (I do not), then his Product Design Online course is a good one, although a bit more conceptual in nature than what I’m trying to achieve with my YouTube videos about Fusion 360. ?But at least his tutorials are based on the newer UI. ?So many of ?the YouTube tutorials on Fusion 360 are based on the original user interface design. ?The Fusion 360 user interface was upgraded and changed in significant ways a few years ago, and if you’re trying to follow along with some of the older content, it can be very disorienting because your screen doesn’t exactly match that of the instructor.
One of the frustrating aspects of climbing up the learning curve is where to go when you get stuck. ?Nothing stymies the motivation more than to end up in some cul de sac getting unexpected behavior and not knowing why or what to do. ?To help will this I am assembling a list of YouTube resources to turn to when you do get stuck of just need more clarifications. ?It’s a growing list, assembled as I go along in the tutorial development. ?I’ve posted some of this in my YouTube video descriptions, but I’ll attach the current version here for use by others.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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David P. Best
Larry Long Neck
David Luckensmeyer