Re: Alternative to Infinity Tools in USA
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I ordered about $3,000 worth of cutter heads and knives from Infinity Tools to help with a door project I have. I placed the order back on January 10th. They still have not sent the completed order to me and every time I call to ask they tell me its back ordered and will be shipped in two weeks. Obviously when I call two weeks later, they tell me "it will now be shipped in two more weeks".
Anyway, I'm pretty sure I just got scammed out of $3k. Which obviously sucks. But honestly at this point I just need to get the tooling to finish the project.?
Anyone know of a more trustworthy website where I can order cutter heads for rail/style door making kits? I would like to avoid router bits and instead use shaper cutter heads. But honestly at this point I would take anything just so i can make progress on this project.
-Brian
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
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Alternative to Infinity Tools in USA
I ordered about $3,000 worth of cutter heads and knives from Infinity Tools to help with a door project I have. I placed the order back on January 10th. They still have not sent the completed order to me and every time I call to ask they tell me its back ordered and will be shipped in two weeks. Obviously when I call two weeks later, they tell me "it will now be shipped in two more weeks".
Anyway, I'm pretty sure I just got scammed out of $3k. Which obviously sucks. But honestly at this point I just need to get the tooling to finish the project.?
Anyone know of a more trustworthy website where I can order cutter heads for rail/style door making kits? I would like to avoid router bits and instead use shaper cutter heads. But honestly at this point I would take anything just so i can make progress on this project.
-Brian
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I¡¯m on the hunt for a new in box or lightly used Laguna Driftmaster fence for re-sawing veneer.?
Please let me know if anyone has one going under-loved or knows where one can be found.?
Thanks!
Hammans
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Re: Martin cutter blocks - which one tersa or xylent type carbide insert?
#jointerplaner
I built a 42¡± x 26¡± extension for my 25.5 jp About 6¡¯ from outfeed roll, Very handy , putting extensions on jointer bar style for 20¡± felder extensions and longer one with leg some day.
Designing and building for 50 years
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On Mar 12, 2023, at 11:14 AM, joelgelman via groups.io <joelgelman@...> wrote:
? [Edited Message Follows]
I purchased those machines, and sold my TP-300 within 24 hours of placing it up for sale. ?I have known the dealer you are referring to for many years. ?It is not often that these become available recent model without too much use, and although the timing was not perfect, I found a way to make it happen as I did not think I would have that situation ever again. ?Now that I have them, I feel very fortunate, and while I did not "need" them, it is so much nicer and faster to process wood with separates, and I hope to have them until I can't do woodworking any more. Personally, I would not get the folding planer infeed extension at this time, especially if you can confirm it can be easily added at a later time. ?I do not think you need support when feeding, but up to you. ?However, on the outfeed side, I think the 1500MM permanently fixed is very nice, especially if you use the "space saving configuration". ?It moves up and down with the table in a way that the wood always clears the overhanging jointer fence that protrudes behind the jointer. ?When you are feeding, nice to know you can feed multiple pieces or longer pieces, and they will not fall off the outfeed end.? As for the Waxilit auto lubricator, maybe depends on your usage. ?For me, I like the Renaissance along with the Festool green Flies pads. As an FYI, it is my understanding that you can't get the Waxilit table and the infeed fold-down together. ?One or the other. ?You may want to confirm that with the dealer. ?For me, I got the Waxilit I did not want, and that is of course the tradeoff for used, but for me it was worth it to not get everything exactly as I would have preferred due to the cost savings of used local over new. ? I know a couple of people who have their machines against the wall and 1 that does not, and I think it is way nicer if you can have room to talk ?behind the planer (opposite the jointer) assuming you have them together. ?I moved a lot of things around to have that footprint, and am very happy I did that. ? All personal preferences of course. ?Congratulations. ?
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Re: Martin cutter blocks - which one tersa or xylent type carbide insert?
#jointerplaner
I purchased those machines, and sold my TP-300 within 24 hours of placing it up for sale. ?I have known the dealer you are referring to for many years. ?It is not often that these become available recent model without too much use, and although the timing was not perfect, I found a way to make it happen as I did not think I would have that situation ever again. ?Now that I have them, I feel very fortunate, and while I did not "need" them, it is so much nicer and faster to process wood with separates, and I hope to have them until I can't do woodworking any more.
Personally, I would not get the folding planer infeed extension at this time, especially if you can confirm it can be easily added at a later time. ?I do not think you need support when feeding, but up to you. ?However, on the outfeed side, I think the 1500MM permanently fixed is very nice, especially if you use the "space saving configuration". ?It moves up and down with the table in a way that the wood always clears the overhanging jointer fence that protrudes behind the jointer. ?When you are feeding, nice to know you can feed multiple pieces or longer pieces, and they will not fall off the outfeed end.?
As for the Waxilit auto lubricator, maybe depends on your usage. ?For me, I like the Renaissance along with the Festool green Flies pads.
As an FYI, it is my understanding that you can't get the Waxilit table and the infeed fold-down together. ?One or the other. ?You may want to confirm that with the dealer. ?For me, I got the Waxilit I did not want, and that is of course the tradeoff for used, but for me it was worth it to not get everything exactly as I would have preferred due to the cost savings of used local over new. ?
I know a couple of people who have their machines against the wall and 1 that does not, and I think it is way nicer if you can have room to talk ?behind the planer (opposite the jointer) assuming you have them together. ?I moved a lot of things around to have that footprint, and am very happy I did that. ?
All personal preferences of course. ?Congratulations. ?
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Re: Martin cutter blocks - which one tersa or xylent type carbide insert?
#jointerplaner
When you get into Martin type quality of planer design, Tersa vs Spiral is more about dust collection than finish quality.? Tersa excels on a top end machine, Spiral compensates for design compromises.? You do need more cfm on your DC with Tersa for sure.?
Dave
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Thanks for the input on the cutter block selection. Rough cost is +$4k per machine for spiral over Tersa which breaks the bank if I didn't already.? Joel if you bought your machines recently there was an ad in California where a guy had both machines for
one year and listed on woodweb by the dealer.? I reached out to the seller (dealer) and I didn't even get a reply back. That's pretty much been my experience with that same dealer when I was looking at a T65C.? Too bad I couldn't find these machines used!??
For the jointer I bought standard bed which is going to be good for me. The planer has options for collapsible 450MM infeed and outfeed tables or 1500MM permanently fixed I did not opt for either but thinking of adding the smaller extensions.? The Martin rep
suggested I get the auto lubricator for the machine I don't have much else for options. Good to know on that roller only an owner would know small things like that make a big difference.?
Jay Bowen
Cleveland
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Re: Martin cutter blocks - which one tersa or xylent type carbide insert?
#jointerplaner
Thanks for the input on the cutter block selection. Rough cost is +$4k per machine for spiral over Tersa which breaks the bank if I didn't already.? Joel if you bought your machines recently there was an ad in California where a guy had both machines for one year and listed on woodweb by the dealer.? I reached out to the seller (dealer) and I didn't even get a reply back. That's pretty much been my experience with that same dealer when I was looking at a T65C.? Too bad I couldn't find these machines used!??
For the jointer I bought standard bed which is going to be good for me. The planer has options for collapsible 450MM infeed and outfeed tables or 1500MM permanently fixed I did not opt for either but thinking of adding the smaller extensions.? The Martin rep suggested I get the auto lubricator for the machine I don't have much else for options. Good to know on that roller only an owner would know small things like that make a big difference.?
Jay Bowen
Cleveland
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Re: planer power drive height adjustment?
Plane a piece of hardwood down from 30mm to 20mm checking with calipers each time until it is exactly 20mm, leave the bed where it is and hold the reset button. It should reset to 20mm.
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Bill:
Sorry - I should have included in the first message ?!
The height is essentially the same - 15.3mm.
J.
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Jacques, What is the overall height? Mine is 15mm.
BB
On Sat, Mar 11, 2023 at 6:56?PM Jacques Gagnon via <jacques.gagnon309= [email protected]> wrote:
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Bill,
I just made a profile (using red oak) to insert in the slider of my B3.
The measurements for the piece is will use on my machine are:
21.8mm for the bottom width (32 on your drawing)
9.6mm for the thickness of the bottom wing (10.0 on your drawing, but I purposely made mine a little bit thinner)
11.0mm for the width of the groove (20mm on your drawing)
I hope this helps; let me know if you have questions.
Regards,
Jacques
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That absolutely helps Jacques! Thanks so much!
Bill
On Sat, Mar 11, 2023 at 6:56?PM Jacques Gagnon via <jacques.gagnon309= [email protected]> wrote:
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Bill,
I just made a profile (using red oak) to insert in the slider of my B3.
The measurements for the piece is will use on my machine are:
21.8mm for the bottom width (32 on your drawing)
9.6mm for the thickness of the bottom wing (10.0 on your drawing, but I purposely made mine a little bit thinner)
11.0mm for the width of the groove (20mm on your drawing)
I hope this helps; let me know if you have questions.
Regards,
Jacques
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Thanks Brian. One step at a time into the worm can... :)
BB
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Hi Bill,
As for how many configurations, a lot of different ones. I just finished printing some nuts for a bridge clamp I built for my machine, it¡¯s an old F-channel slider. Compared to yours, it¡¯s 20mm ?and 32mm wide like you show, but the lower step is 15mm tall, the upper step is 6mm tall, so 21mm total in height. You will need 6mm radius on the bottom corners, and a 2mm chamfer on the external corners between the upper and lower segment.
The old F-channel is one set of dimensions, the P-channel another, some of the format machines are different as well, then you have Hammer and a few odd tables on some of the 500 series machines. It¡¯s a can of worms making stuff to fit them all¡.
On Mar 11, 2023, at 5:55 PM, Bill Belanger <Bill@...> wrote:
I made some T nuts for the Felder slider. Unfortunately, I only have the Kappa 400 table to measure, and someone who purchased some for his B3 Hammer said they were too wide. So can someone tell me how many different tables are available from Felder? Also where I might find the dimensions of the T slots?
Thanks so much for your help.
Bill B¨¦langer
<Screenshot 2023-03-11 at 17.34.36.png>
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Bill,
I just made a profile (using red oak) to insert in the slider of my B3.
The measurements for the piece I will use on my machine are:
21.8mm for the bottom width (32 on your drawing)
9.6mm for the thickness of the bottom wing (10.0 on your drawing, but I purposely made mine a little bit thinner)
11.0mm for the width of the groove (20mm on your drawing)
I hope this helps; let me know if you have questions.
Regards,
Jacques
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Hi Bill,
As for how many configurations, a lot of different ones. I just finished printing some nuts for a bridge clamp I built for my machine, it¡¯s an old F-channel slider. Compared to yours, it¡¯s 20mm ?and 32mm wide like you show, but the lower step is 15mm tall, the upper step is 6mm tall, so 21mm total in height. You will need 6mm radius on the bottom corners, and a 2mm chamfer on the external corners between the upper and lower segment.
The old F-channel is one set of dimensions, the P-channel another, some of the format machines are different as well, then you have Hammer and a few odd tables on some of the 500 series machines. It¡¯s a can of worms making stuff to fit them all¡.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
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On Mar 11, 2023, at 5:55 PM, Bill Belanger <Bill@...> wrote:
I made some T nuts for the Felder slider. Unfortunately, I only have the Kappa 400 table to measure, and someone who purchased some for his B3 Hammer said they were too wide. So can someone tell me how many different tables are available from Felder? Also where I might find the dimensions of the T slots?
Thanks so much for your help.
Bill B¨¦langer
<Screenshot 2023-03-11 at 17.34.36.png>
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I made some T nuts for the Felder slider. Unfortunately, I only have the Kappa 400 table to measure, and someone who purchased some for his B3 Hammer said they were too wide. So can someone tell me how many different tables are available from Felder? Also where I might find the dimensions of the T slots?
Thanks so much for your help.
Bill B¨¦langer
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Re: Martin cutter blocks - which one tersa or xylent type carbide insert?
#jointerplaner
Recently, I was able to purchase a 1-year old local t45-54. ?I sold my JP and other personal belongings to generate $ and free up space. ?I would say that getting used local was what allowed it to make sense to me. ?A lower price than new with savings on tax and shipping. ?I have found that if you buy the right recent model Martin, the value holds up very nicely compared to many other manufacturers of other machinery. ? I have known people to recently sell for around what they paid. ?For the past 15 years, I have driven economical cars until they had over 170+k miles, and certainly find machinery to be a better use of $ than upscale cars. ?
For you, if asking about Tersa vs spiral, that suggests you are buying new, and that is where you pay tens of thousands more total, but you get to pick what you want.
For me, the machines came with spiral, which is an option that is associated with a significant price increase for each machine when buying new. ?I was wondering if that was best. ?I looked at forums and talked to people who had one or the other or both. I know 1 who had Tersa on his Martin, and changed to spiral and was happy with it. ?People with Tersa love Terse. ?People with Spiral love spiral. ?Seems like the spiral is more quiet, but on these machines, both are quiet. ?Then there are the obvious differences of how you change knives, longevity, cut seems great with both, chip size etc. ?In your case, if a toss up, you save $ with Tersa so you have to appreciate an advantage to justify the price increase.
My jointer came with an infeed extension that I wish I did not have as for space. ?Now that I have it, I do like it, but be aware, the infeed and outfeed extensions can't be retrofitted, and are not meant to be taken off. ?With the "Space savings" configuration, having the outfeed extension, works for space, but the infeed extension adds overall length. ?If you have the space, you may want both. ?I think the waxilit table that came with mine is of no value as I prefer Renaissance wax, but that is just me. ?Consider the 2nd outfeed roller I wish I had as that allows shorter pieces to come out so you can grab them without reaching under the rubber flaps.
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I likely have a different generation of A3 combo unit that you, but did experience a similar problem with the locking handle on mine. My solution was to simply not leave the locking handle tightened all the way. My practice is to tighten the handle all the way then back it off slightly and that brings the beds into complete alignment. The setup guide for my generation of combo machine is here:?
A word of warning on those Preston videos from YouTube: I found them to be very facile and primarily useful in scenarios where everything was aligned/calibrated 99% of the way already. For anything major, following the advice he dispenses is insufficient and likely to leave you confused more than anything.?
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Interesting. This is different advice than the Preston video shared earlier. I¡¯m not having trouble aligning the infeed and outfeed tables but rather the infeed table farthest from the cutter head droops about a mil when the handle is locked.?
I get the infeed dialed in easily enough but can¡¯t get far end of the table to raise up.?
I did get it absolutely perfect recently, then the weekend came and on the following Monday the table was out again.?
On Fri, Mar 10, 2023 at 11:01 AM kvdd < keesjan@...> wrote: When I had my Felder engineer here for my Hammer C3 31 he had several tips regarding the jointer beds, maybe it will be of use for you:
- If you have to replace the cutter head and need to start all over, start with the infeed bed and align it to the cutter head not the other way around
- Only if you have your infeed bed aligned to the cutter head, then align the outfeed bed
- I also took some notes while he was talking back then:
- The planer outfeed bed needs to be 0.04mm lower then the highest point of the cutter head
- At the thicknesser table, the infeed roller needs to be 0.9mm under the lowest point of the cutter head, the outfeed roller 0.3mm lower then the lowest point of the cutter head
Have you made any progress in the meantime?
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When I had my Felder engineer here for my Hammer C3 31 he had several tips regarding the jointer beds, maybe it will be of use for you:
- If you have to replace the cutter head and need to start all over, start with the infeed bed and align it to the cutter head not the other way around
- Only if you have your infeed bed aligned to the cutter head, then align the outfeed bed
- I also took some notes while he was talking back then:
- The planer outfeed bed needs to be 0.04mm lower then the highest point of the cutter head
- At the thicknesser table, the infeed roller needs to be 0.9mm under the lowest point of the cutter head, the outfeed roller 0.3mm lower then the lowest point of the cutter head
Have you made any progress in the meantime?
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Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard
Here is another diy guard from Mike Farrington.?
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Jay
My question seems to have started a good discussion.
There's an interesting design (similar to the commercial offerings people have mentioned) here: ?I particularly like the simple addition of an extra "barrier" for catching dust with edge cuts.
Dave (in the UK)
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Brian Turner
Simon Ballard
Bill Belanger
