I made some T nuts for the Felder slider. Unfortunately, I only have the Kappa 400 table to measure, and someone who purchased some for his B3 Hammer said they were too wide. So can someone tell me how many different tables are available from Felder? Also where I might find the dimensions of the T slots?
Thanks so much for your help.
Bill B¨¦langer
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Re: Martin cutter blocks - which one tersa or xylent type carbide insert?
#jointerplaner
Recently, I was able to purchase a 1-year old local t45-54. ?I sold my JP and other personal belongings to generate $ and free up space. ?I would say that getting used local was what allowed it to make sense to me. ?A lower price than new with savings on tax and shipping. ?I have found that if you buy the right recent model Martin, the value holds up very nicely compared to many other manufacturers of other machinery. ? I have known people to recently sell for around what they paid. ?For the past 15 years, I have driven economical cars until they had over 170+k miles, and certainly find machinery to be a better use of $ than upscale cars. ?
For you, if asking about Tersa vs spiral, that suggests you are buying new, and that is where you pay tens of thousands more total, but you get to pick what you want.
For me, the machines came with spiral, which is an option that is associated with a significant price increase for each machine when buying new. ?I was wondering if that was best. ?I looked at forums and talked to people who had one or the other or both. I know 1 who had Tersa on his Martin, and changed to spiral and was happy with it. ?People with Tersa love Terse. ?People with Spiral love spiral. ?Seems like the spiral is more quiet, but on these machines, both are quiet. ?Then there are the obvious differences of how you change knives, longevity, cut seems great with both, chip size etc. ?In your case, if a toss up, you save $ with Tersa so you have to appreciate an advantage to justify the price increase.
My jointer came with an infeed extension that I wish I did not have as for space. ?Now that I have it, I do like it, but be aware, the infeed and outfeed extensions can't be retrofitted, and are not meant to be taken off. ?With the "Space savings" configuration, having the outfeed extension, works for space, but the infeed extension adds overall length. ?If you have the space, you may want both. ?I think the waxilit table that came with mine is of no value as I prefer Renaissance wax, but that is just me. ?Consider the 2nd outfeed roller I wish I had as that allows shorter pieces to come out so you can grab them without reaching under the rubber flaps.
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I likely have a different generation of A3 combo unit that you, but did experience a similar problem with the locking handle on mine. My solution was to simply not leave the locking handle tightened all the way. My practice is to tighten the handle all the way then back it off slightly and that brings the beds into complete alignment. The setup guide for my generation of combo machine is here:?
A word of warning on those Preston videos from YouTube: I found them to be very facile and primarily useful in scenarios where everything was aligned/calibrated 99% of the way already. For anything major, following the advice he dispenses is insufficient and likely to leave you confused more than anything.?
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Interesting. This is different advice than the Preston video shared earlier. I¡¯m not having trouble aligning the infeed and outfeed tables but rather the infeed table farthest from the cutter head droops about a mil when the handle is locked.?
I get the infeed dialed in easily enough but can¡¯t get far end of the table to raise up.?
I did get it absolutely perfect recently, then the weekend came and on the following Monday the table was out again.?
On Fri, Mar 10, 2023 at 11:01 AM kvdd < keesjan@...> wrote: When I had my Felder engineer here for my Hammer C3 31 he had several tips regarding the jointer beds, maybe it will be of use for you:
- If you have to replace the cutter head and need to start all over, start with the infeed bed and align it to the cutter head not the other way around
- Only if you have your infeed bed aligned to the cutter head, then align the outfeed bed
- I also took some notes while he was talking back then:
- The planer outfeed bed needs to be 0.04mm lower then the highest point of the cutter head
- At the thicknesser table, the infeed roller needs to be 0.9mm under the lowest point of the cutter head, the outfeed roller 0.3mm lower then the lowest point of the cutter head
Have you made any progress in the meantime?
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When I had my Felder engineer here for my Hammer C3 31 he had several tips regarding the jointer beds, maybe it will be of use for you:
- If you have to replace the cutter head and need to start all over, start with the infeed bed and align it to the cutter head not the other way around
- Only if you have your infeed bed aligned to the cutter head, then align the outfeed bed
- I also took some notes while he was talking back then:
- The planer outfeed bed needs to be 0.04mm lower then the highest point of the cutter head
- At the thicknesser table, the infeed roller needs to be 0.9mm under the lowest point of the cutter head, the outfeed roller 0.3mm lower then the lowest point of the cutter head
Have you made any progress in the meantime?
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Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard
Here is another diy guard from Mike Farrington.?
?
Jay
My question seems to have started a good discussion.
There's an interesting design (similar to the commercial offerings people have mentioned) here: ?I particularly like the simple addition of an extra "barrier" for catching dust with edge cuts.
Dave (in the UK)
?
?
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Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard
Hi Dave,
Yes. Thanks for starting this thread. It¡¯s something I need to think about and I can see the many advantages of this type of system. Axminster Tools have a few options available. I'm still a long way from finishing the restoration of my CF731.
Barrie (Also from the UK)
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Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard
My question seems to have started a good discussion.
There's an interesting design (similar to the commercial offerings people have mentioned) here: ?I particularly like the simple addition of an extra "barrier" for catching dust with edge cuts.
Dave (in the UK)
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Re: Martin cutter blocks - which one tersa or xylent type carbide insert?
#jointerplaner
I have Tersa on my Dual 51 and love it. ?Except when a contractor friend came over with 250 feet of 16¡± wide rough live oak to do S2S. ?We emptied the RL160 every single board. ?If you¡¯re planning a lot of production with the planer, the chip volume with Tersa is easily 3-4 times that of my Dewalt lunchbox planer with spiral cutter.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Mar 9, 2023, at 7:44 PM, Tom Morris <morrist@...> wrote:
I have both the machines you¡¯re looking at with Tersa. The president of Martin USA at the time recommended the Tersa, I have no regrets .
Tom Morris?
Wichita, KS
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Re: Martin cutter blocks - which one tersa or xylent type carbide insert?
#jointerplaner
I have both the machines you¡¯re looking at with Tersa. The president of Martin USA at the time recommended the Tersa, I have no regrets .
Tom Morris?
Wichita, KS
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Re: Any experience with GDP Tooling?
Tom,
Those router bits/shanks are made by Guhdo. ?I don¡¯t own those specific bits, but I do own other shaper tooling made by Guhdo and it¡¯s excellent quality. ?At one time most of the shaper tooling offered by Felder was private labeled from Guhdo - I¡¯d be surprised if that isn¡¯t the case today.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 9, 2023, at 10:53 AM, tom@... wrote:
I'm currently working on dialing-in some details on a project using Tectus hinges, and am seeing the option to use router bits from GDP Tooling, and was wondering if users here had any input/feedback??
It appears that the GDP router bits utilize a 1/2" shank bit with a M12x1 threaded stud. From here, users can add varying lengths of extensions, capping with a variety of diameters of cutting tools.?
I'm currently using a Templaco template, but am finding it rather cumbersome, and am inclined to go with the Simonswerk template system. With the Simonswerk template, there is an option for an Imperial or Metric version, with the guidance from Simonswerk that the Metric version is more precise.?
GDP Tooling router shaft:??
GDP Tooling extension:??
GDP Tooling 24mm cutter:??
It appears that there is a decent selection of tooling out there which accepts this M12x1 thread pattern, could be interesting for certain mortising operations....??
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: Any experience with GDP Tooling?
Tom, in Europe these are ok for industrial boring gear, in metric and imperial.
Don't know about availability your side of the pond. I generally buy from a company in Italy and find the delivery and service good. Kindest regards
Jonathan Samways
Tom? I would be looking at Scherr ?router These are serious routers great features? Mac,,
Designing and building for 50 years On Mar 9, 2023, at 12:53 PM, tom@... wrote:
?I'm currently working on dialing-in some details on a project using Tectus hinges, and am seeing the option to use router bits from GDP Tooling, and was wondering if users here had any input/feedback??
It appears that the GDP router bits utilize a 1/2" shank bit with a M12x1 threaded stud. From here, users can add varying lengths of extensions, capping with a variety of diameters of cutting tools.?
I'm currently using a Templaco template, but am finding it rather cumbersome, and am inclined to go with the Simonswerk template system. With the Simonswerk template, there is an option for an Imperial or Metric version, with the guidance from Simonswerk that the Metric version is more precise.?
GDP Tooling router shaft:??
GDP Tooling extension:??
GDP Tooling 24mm cutter:??
It appears that there is a decent selection of tooling out there which accepts this M12x1 thread pattern, could be interesting for certain mortising operations....??
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: Any experience with GDP Tooling?
Tom? I would be looking at Scherr ?router These are serious routers great features? Mac,,
 Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 9, 2023, at 12:53 PM, tom@... wrote:
?I'm currently working on dialing-in some details on a project using Tectus hinges, and am seeing the option to use router bits from GDP Tooling, and was wondering if users here had any input/feedback??
It appears that the GDP router bits utilize a 1/2" shank bit with a M12x1 threaded stud. From here, users can add varying lengths of extensions, capping with a variety of diameters of cutting tools.?
I'm currently using a Templaco template, but am finding it rather cumbersome, and am inclined to go with the Simonswerk template system. With the Simonswerk template, there is an option for an Imperial or Metric version, with the guidance from Simonswerk that the Metric version is more precise.?
GDP Tooling router shaft:??
GDP Tooling extension:??
GDP Tooling 24mm cutter:??
It appears that there is a decent selection of tooling out there which accepts this M12x1 thread pattern, could be interesting for certain mortising operations....??
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
Any experience with GDP Tooling?
I'm currently working on dialing-in some details on a project using Tectus hinges, and am seeing the option to use router bits from GDP Tooling, and was wondering if users here had any input/feedback??
It appears that the GDP router bits utilize a 1/2" shank bit with a M12x1 threaded stud. From here, users can add varying lengths of extensions, capping with a variety of diameters of cutting tools.?
I'm currently using a Templaco template, but am finding it rather cumbersome, and am inclined to go with the Simonswerk template system. With the Simonswerk template, there is an option for an Imperial or Metric version, with the guidance from Simonswerk that the Metric version is more precise.?
GDP Tooling router shaft:??
GDP Tooling extension:??
GDP Tooling 24mm cutter:??
It appears that there is a decent selection of tooling out there which accepts this M12x1 thread pattern, could be interesting for certain mortising operations....??
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard
John,
I would assume Felder made some improvements. The tension must be adjustable. Remove 4 machine screws, so you can see how the guard is held in place.
James
James, this is what mine looks like. My saw, K700S, arrived about 11 or 12 months ago.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard
James, this is what mine looks like. My saw, K700S, arrived about 11 or 12 months ago.  -- John Hinman Boise ID K700S and A941
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Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard
John,
Yes, tension can be adjusted on the black knob. There is a nylon cap at the tip of the knob inside. After?removing the machine screws, I got access to the nylon cap, just turned it counterclockwise.
I am surprised that your overhead guard does not have the knob. Mine is 2016 KF700sp. Can you post a picture of your overhead guard?
James
I had the Shark guard on my Unisaw. I liked it, and the dust collection was pretty good. My saw did not have a riving knife, though, so the guard was attached to the table. Every time I adjusted the blade height I had to manually adjust the height of the Shark. That was a nuisance.
I like my Felder overarm guard, even though I would change a few things if I could. James Zhu, is the black knob in your picture part of the guard? Does that adjust the tension? My set-up does not have anything like that.
David Best, my guard has a different set-up. There is a bolt that secures the arm in place. What you did is exactly what I would like to have on mine!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard
I had the Shark guard on my Unisaw. I liked it, and the dust collection was pretty good. My saw did not have a riving knife, though, so the guard was attached to the table. Every time I adjusted the blade height I had to manually adjust the height of the Shark. That was a nuisance. I like my Felder overarm guard, even though I would change a few things if I could. James Zhu, is the black knob in your picture part of the guard? Does that adjust the tension? My set-up does not have anything like that. David Best, my guard has a different set-up. There is a bolt that secures the arm in place. What you did is exactly what I would like to have on mine!  -- John Hinman Boise ID K700S and A941
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Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard
On Thu, Mar 9, 2023 at 12:16 PM, Aaron Inami wrote:
Interesting.? The video on the Harvey web page shows the guy pushing the guard ¡°away¡± from his operator position instead of pulling it towards him.
If you're referring to the video about the Harvey workstation that's on the page you linked, I don't even see the guard being moved in that video.? Perhaps there's another video out there, or I'm just not realizing the part where the guard is moved. However if you look at the first picture on the page that shows the guard you can see two little black (rubber) cylinders where the shiny vertical metal arm meets the black base.? One cylinder is vertical, the other is horizontal.? The vertical one is attached to the base and is the stop.? The horizontal one is attached to the vertical piece and rotates as the guard pivots.? If you try to push the guard away (toward the back of the saw) then the cylinders will collide and the pivot motion will stop.? If you move the guard toward the front then the cylinders will get further apart, thus allowing the pivot.
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Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard
If the overhead guard pivot-latch mechanism is anything like my Kappa 400, it¡¯s pretty simple to add a release mechanism at the slider-side of the machine. ?Have a look at this mod:
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Bill Belanger
Barrie Stott
David P. Best
Tom Gensmer