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Any experience with GDP Tooling?
I'm currently working on dialing-in some details on a project using Tectus hinges, and am seeing the option to use router bits from GDP Tooling, and was wondering if users here had any input/feedback??
It appears that the GDP router bits utilize a 1/2" shank bit with a M12x1 threaded stud. From here, users can add varying lengths of extensions, capping with a variety of diameters of cutting tools.?
I'm currently using a Templaco template, but am finding it rather cumbersome, and am inclined to go with the Simonswerk template system. With the Simonswerk template, there is an option for an Imperial or Metric version, with the guidance from Simonswerk that the Metric version is more precise.?
GDP Tooling router shaft:??
GDP Tooling extension:??
GDP Tooling 24mm cutter:??
It appears that there is a decent selection of tooling out there which accepts this M12x1 thread pattern, could be interesting for certain mortising operations....??
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard
John,
I would assume Felder made some improvements. The tension must be adjustable. Remove 4 machine screws, so you can see how the guard is held in place.
James
James, this is what mine looks like. My saw, K700S, arrived about 11 or 12 months ago.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard
James, this is what mine looks like. My saw, K700S, arrived about 11 or 12 months ago.  -- John Hinman Boise ID K700S and A941
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Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard
John,
Yes, tension can be adjusted on the black knob. There is a nylon cap at the tip of the knob inside. After?removing the machine screws, I got access to the nylon cap, just turned it counterclockwise.
I am surprised that your overhead guard does not have the knob. Mine is 2016 KF700sp. Can you post a picture of your overhead guard?
James
I had the Shark guard on my Unisaw. I liked it, and the dust collection was pretty good. My saw did not have a riving knife, though, so the guard was attached to the table. Every time I adjusted the blade height I had to manually adjust the height of the Shark. That was a nuisance.
I like my Felder overarm guard, even though I would change a few things if I could. James Zhu, is the black knob in your picture part of the guard? Does that adjust the tension? My set-up does not have anything like that.
David Best, my guard has a different set-up. There is a bolt that secures the arm in place. What you did is exactly what I would like to have on mine!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard
I had the Shark guard on my Unisaw. I liked it, and the dust collection was pretty good. My saw did not have a riving knife, though, so the guard was attached to the table. Every time I adjusted the blade height I had to manually adjust the height of the Shark. That was a nuisance. I like my Felder overarm guard, even though I would change a few things if I could. James Zhu, is the black knob in your picture part of the guard? Does that adjust the tension? My set-up does not have anything like that. David Best, my guard has a different set-up. There is a bolt that secures the arm in place. What you did is exactly what I would like to have on mine!  -- John Hinman Boise ID K700S and A941
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Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard
On Thu, Mar 9, 2023 at 12:16 PM, Aaron Inami wrote:
Interesting.? The video on the Harvey web page shows the guy pushing the guard “away” from his operator position instead of pulling it towards him.
If you're referring to the video about the Harvey workstation that's on the page you linked, I don't even see the guard being moved in that video.? Perhaps there's another video out there, or I'm just not realizing the part where the guard is moved. However if you look at the first picture on the page that shows the guard you can see two little black (rubber) cylinders where the shiny vertical metal arm meets the black base.? One cylinder is vertical, the other is horizontal.? The vertical one is attached to the base and is the stop.? The horizontal one is attached to the vertical piece and rotates as the guard pivots.? If you try to push the guard away (toward the back of the saw) then the cylinders will collide and the pivot motion will stop.? If you move the guard toward the front then the cylinders will get further apart, thus allowing the pivot.
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Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard
If the overhead guard pivot-latch mechanism is anything like my Kappa 400, it’s pretty simple to add a release mechanism at the slider-side of the machine. ?Have a look at this mod:
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David Best - via mobile phone?
David Best - via mobile phone?
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On Mar 9, 2023, at 8:01 AM, John Hinman <jhinman1911@...> wrote:
?This sounds like an interesting project.
I have the Felder overhead guard, and like it but would change a couple of things if I could. I’ll throw these out just for ideas:
First, the Felder guard is hard to lift. I have to use two hands to adjust the clearance over the work piece. If I could make that easier to operate I would. I’ve tried to adjust the tension in the guides but have not had success.
Second, sometimes the guard ?has to be moved completely out of the way. On my Felder that means walking around to the back of the machine and unscrewing a bolt. Putting it back in place means another trip around the machine. If there was a way to release the guard from the operator’s normal position that would be really convenient.
Third, even though the guard itself is clear it is not easy to see the blade to check for blade height and such. Not sure how to fix that. If it was easier to lift the guard a bit that might not be so much of an issue.
Lastly, the dust collection is not great. Collection is through a part of the support arm, and between the small area and the sharp corners in the route the air flow is restricted.
Just some things to think about. I hope to see what you come up with!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard
Interesting.? The video on the Harvey web page shows the guy pushing the guard “away” from his operator position instead of pulling it towards him. ? -Aaron ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Steve Wurster
Sent: Thursday, March 9, 2023 9:07 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Overarm saw (crown) guard ? I have the Harvey guard that Aaron linked to mounted to my Hammer K3.? It's really well made and works fairly well.? Like all / most of these, the collection when trimming an edge is poor.? I've messed around with ideas on how to improve that but didn't yet make anything that works really well.
While the guard pivots out the way easily, the direction of pivot is toward the operator, so it's unlikely that "falling" into the guard will cause any problems because the guard won't be able to move any further.? However as John pointed out for the Felder one, the lock on the Harvey is also at the pivot point, so I have to walk all the way around the saw to lock / unlock when needed.
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Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard
Dave, have a look at Scott and sargents site, recently?they sent me a flyer on overhead guards, they might have something interesting.?
I have the overhead guard on my KF700sp. As you probably know, I hate the changeover between the saw and the shaper. I bet money that Martin will never make a saw/shaper combo.
But I do like the overhead guard, I think every saw should have an overhead guard. I cannot watch people using their hand?to push the wood thru the spinning blade so closely.
I recently adjusted the tension on my overhead guard. My issue was the guard would not hold the position. Just remove 4 machine screws, you will know how to adjust the tension on the knob, very easy to do.
James Hi John,
After researching and asking around about the Felder overhead guard, many of your listed thoughts are why I’ve decided to live without it. ????
Thx,
Wade
?This sounds like an interesting project.
I have the Felder overhead guard, and like it but would change a couple of things if I could. I’ll throw these out just for ideas:
First, the Felder guard is hard to lift. I have to use two hands to adjust the clearance over the work piece. If I could make that easier to operate I would. I’ve tried to adjust the tension in the guides but have not had success.
Second, sometimes the guard ?has to be moved completely out of the way. On my Felder that means walking around to the back of the machine and unscrewing a bolt. Putting it back in place means another trip around the machine. If there was a way to release the guard from the operator’s normal position that would be really convenient.
Third, even though the guard itself is clear it is not easy to see the blade to check for blade height and such. Not sure how to fix that. If it was easier to lift the guard a bit that might not be so much of an issue.
Lastly, the dust collection is not great. Collection is through a part of the support arm, and between the small area and the sharp corners in the route the air flow is restricted.
Just some things to think about. I hope to see what you come up with!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
-- Kindest Regards
Jonathan Samways
Este mensaje se dirige exclusivamente a su destinatario y puede contener información privilegiada o confidencial. Si no es vd.el destinatario indicado, queda notificado de que la utilización, divulgación y/o copia sin autorización está prohibida en virtud de la legislación vigente. Si ha recibido este mensaje por error, le rogamos que nos lo comunique inmediatamente por esta misma vía y proceda a su destrucción. This message is intended exclusively for its addressee and may contain information that is confidential and protected by professional privilege.If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination, copy or disclosure of this communication is strictly prohibited by law. If this message has been received in error, please immediately notify us via e-mail and delete it.
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Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard
I have the Harvey guard that Aaron linked to mounted to my Hammer K3.? It's really well made and works fairly well.? Like all / most of these, the collection when trimming an edge is poor.? I've messed around with ideas on how to improve that but didn't yet make anything that works really well.
While the guard pivots out the way easily, the direction of pivot is toward the operator, so it's unlikely that "falling" into the guard will cause any problems because the guard won't be able to move any further.? However as John pointed out for the Felder one, the lock on the Harvey is also at the pivot point, so I have to walk all the way around the saw to lock / unlock when needed.
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Re: Saw controls on slider
The Felder level table saws (K500, K700, etc) all use low voltage wire that is ultimately connected to the saw chassis (i.e. ground).? The following thread explains a bit on how it's done: /g/felderownersgroup/topic/96460647#127960I think it was a 24V DC current fed from a coil.? The 24V "hot" wire is connected to one of the slider rails which has been isolated from the machine (i.e. ground).? The hot rail is connected to a 470ohm resistor (to provide load) and a contactor switch at the end of the table.? This is ultimately connected back to the slider table and ground which provides a complete circuit.? Once you push the "stop" button at the end of the slider, it breaks the contact in the circuit.? The control box inside the saw detects the broken circuit and shuts down the saw motors. -Aaron Inami
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Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard
I bought the Felder overhead guard.? Coming from a cabinet saw with the old Excalibur overhead guard/dust collector, the performance is much the same.? Overhead dust collection is good and it generally captures about 99% of the dust.? The exception is when you are trimming an edge, which usually throws a bunch of dust out onto the table anyways.? With a good enough dust collector, I can get enough suction where small pieces of wood are sucked up into the dust collector (even with a smaller 3" host between the hood and the duct drop).? I have also seen solutions like a 4" dust hose hanging from the ceiling that connects to a blade guard.? This should not be considered a "blade gaurd" unless the blade guard is firmly attached to the table.
In the U.K., you are likely best off getting the Felder guard (though I don't know the costs).? Here in the U.S., I have seen people using the old Excalibur guards on a slider as well as the Grizzly over-head guard (which is similar to the Excalibur).? Looking at all the option, the Harvey overhead dust collector seems to be very well engineered and is the most "Europe-like" in its design:
It it cheaper than the Felder guard (at least here in the U.S.).? One of the things I noticed about it is how easy it is to push away when you don't need it.? This is a double-edged sword, however, because if you somehow "fall into the guard", it may not protect you from the blade since it is so easy to "push away".? The Felder guard (once secured using the bolt) is not going to be "pushed away" if you somehow fall into it which makes it a better safety device.
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Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard
I have the overhead guard on my KF700sp. As you probably know, I hate the changeover between the saw and the shaper. I bet money that Martin will never make a saw/shaper combo.
But I do like the overhead guard, I think every saw should have an overhead guard. I cannot watch people using their hand?to push the wood thru the spinning blade so closely.
I recently adjusted the tension on my overhead guard. My issue was the guard would not hold the position. Just remove 4 machine screws, you will know how to adjust the tension on the knob, very easy to do.
James
Hi John,
After researching and asking around about the Felder overhead guard, many of your listed thoughts are why I’ve decided to live without it. ????
Thx,
Wade
?This sounds like an interesting project.
I have the Felder overhead guard, and like it but would change a couple of things if I could. I’ll throw these out just for ideas:
First, the Felder guard is hard to lift. I have to use two hands to adjust the clearance over the work piece. If I could make that easier to operate I would. I’ve tried to adjust the tension in the guides but have not had success.
Second, sometimes the guard ?has to be moved completely out of the way. On my Felder that means walking around to the back of the machine and unscrewing a bolt. Putting it back in place means another trip around the machine. If there was a way to release the guard from the operator’s normal position that would be really convenient.
Third, even though the guard itself is clear it is not easy to see the blade to check for blade height and such. Not sure how to fix that. If it was easier to lift the guard a bit that might not be so much of an issue.
Lastly, the dust collection is not great. Collection is through a part of the support arm, and between the small area and the sharp corners in the route the air flow is restricted.
Just some things to think about. I hope to see what you come up with!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard
Before I sold my KF I had the??? for it and it worked fine. Dave Davies
Hi John,
After researching and asking around about the Felder overhead guard, many of your listed thoughts are why I’ve decided to live without it. ????
Thx,
Wade
?This sounds like an interesting project.
I have the Felder overhead guard, and like it but would change a couple of things if I could. I’ll throw these out just for ideas:
First, the Felder guard is hard to lift. I have to use two hands to adjust the clearance over the work piece. If I could make that easier to operate I would. I’ve tried to adjust the tension in the guides but have not had success.
Second, sometimes the guard ?has to be moved completely out of the way. On my Felder that means walking around to the back of the machine and unscrewing a bolt. Putting it back in place means another trip around the machine. If there was a way to release the guard from the operator’s normal position that would be really convenient.
Third, even though the guard itself is clear it is not easy to see the blade to check for blade height and such. Not sure how to fix that. If it was easier to lift the guard a bit that might not be so much of an issue.
Lastly, the dust collection is not great. Collection is through a part of the support arm, and between the small area and the sharp corners in the route the air flow is restricted.
Just some things to think about. I hope to see what you come up with!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
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Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard
Hi John,
After researching and asking around about the Felder overhead guard, many of your listed thoughts are why I’ve decided to live without it. ????
Thx,
Wade
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 9, 2023, at 8:01 AM, John Hinman <jhinman1911@...> wrote:
?This sounds like an interesting project.
I have the Felder overhead guard, and like it but would change a couple of things if I could. I’ll throw these out just for ideas:
First, the Felder guard is hard to lift. I have to use two hands to adjust the clearance over the work piece. If I could make that easier to operate I would. I’ve tried to adjust the tension in the guides but have not had success.
Second, sometimes the guard ?has to be moved completely out of the way. On my Felder that means walking around to the back of the machine and unscrewing a bolt. Putting it back in place means another trip around the machine. If there was a way to release the guard from the operator’s normal position that would be really convenient.
Third, even though the guard itself is clear it is not easy to see the blade to check for blade height and such. Not sure how to fix that. If it was easier to lift the guard a bit that might not be so much of an issue.
Lastly, the dust collection is not great. Collection is through a part of the support arm, and between the small area and the sharp corners in the route the air flow is restricted.
Just some things to think about. I hope to see what you come up with!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard
John, that's a good list of things to think about.
The Suva design might answer several of the points, perhaps with a hinged side (held down by rare earth magnets) to be able to check blade height and alignment.
I considered using the support tube for extraction but, on balance, I'd prefer a separate rigid plastic waste pipe attached to the support tube, with a flexi to the guard.
Dave (in the UK)
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Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard
On Thu, Mar 9, 2023 at 03:18 PM, <tom@...> wrote:
the SUVA 91 guard
Thanks Tom, there are some very useful drawings and photos on that link but the price is over ?1,500 /1800USD which is "rather a lot" (British understatement) for a relatively simple device. Dave (in the UK)
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Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard
This sounds like an interesting project.
I have the Felder overhead guard, and like it but would change a couple of things if I could. I’ll throw these out just for ideas:
First, the Felder guard is hard to lift. I have to use two hands to adjust the clearance over the work piece. If I could make that easier to operate I would. I’ve tried to adjust the tension in the guides but have not had success.
Second, sometimes the guard ?has to be moved completely out of the way. On my Felder that means walking around to the back of the machine and unscrewing a bolt. Putting it back in place means another trip around the machine. If there was a way to release the guard from the operator’s normal position that would be really convenient.
Third, even though the guard itself is clear it is not easy to see the blade to check for blade height and such. Not sure how to fix that. If it was easier to lift the guard a bit that might not be so much of an issue.
Lastly, the dust collection is not great. Collection is through a part of the support arm, and between the small area and the sharp corners in the route the air flow is restricted.
Just some things to think about. I hope to see what you come up with!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
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Re: Martin cutter blocks - which one tersa or xylent type carbide insert?
#jointerplaner
Scallops with tersa are right angle Scallops with helical inserts are length wise or 90 to tersa ? Both have their advantages ?just depends on what u do.? In A hobby shop like mine traditional hand set 2 knife is more than fine. With proper jigs it’s no big deal. If I had a choice tersa Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years
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On Mar 9, 2023, at 9:39 AM, Joe Jensen <joe@...> wrote:
? I upgraded a Powermatic 8” jointer to a Terminus (Teresa copy) and ran that for a couple of years. I found the Terminus knives to dull quickly but they were easy to change. ?I use hardwood exclusively and figured often and I still had the tear out issues. I then switched to a Byrd cutter head and I love the spiral carbide inserts. I now run a 12” SCMI jointer upgraded to a Byrd and I have a Byrd in my planer. If upgrading I’d seriously consider the Hermance insert cutter head.? On Mar 9, 2023, at 7:46 AM, Marlowe McGraw <marlomcgraw@...> wrote:
? Jay,
I recently replaced the cutterhead of my Martin T41 with a Byrd Shelix head.? I'm very happy with the cut quality.? I have no doubt that the Martin cutterhead is as good or better than the Byrd. I haven't done a direct comparison with my tersa head Griggio planer (same diameter cutting circle), but expect it to tear out less in highly figured woods. One big benefit of insert head IMO is the smaller chip delivered to my collector barrel.?? Dealing with small nicks is fairly easily dealt with on tersa given knife shift. Using different knife sets for nasty material (like reclaimed) is a plus for Tersa. Enjoy your fine machines!
Marlowe McGraw? Hi, I am upgrading to Martin T45 and T54 machines looking for advice on cutterheads. Tersa or carbide insert???
Jay Bowen
Cleveland
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Re: Martin cutter blocks - which one tersa or xylent type carbide insert?
#jointerplaner
I upgraded a Powermatic 8” jointer to a Terminus (Teresa copy) and ran that for a couple of years. I found the Terminus knives to dull quickly but they were easy to change. ?I use hardwood exclusively and figured often and I still had the tear out issues. I then switched to a Byrd cutter head and I love the spiral carbide inserts. I now run a 12” SCMI jointer upgraded to a Byrd and I have a Byrd in my planer. If upgrading I’d seriously consider the Hermance insert cutter head.?
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On Mar 9, 2023, at 7:46 AM, Marlowe McGraw <marlomcgraw@...> wrote:
? Jay,
I recently replaced the cutterhead of my Martin T41 with a Byrd Shelix head.? I'm very happy with the cut quality.? I have no doubt that the Martin cutterhead is as good or better than the Byrd. I haven't done a direct comparison with my tersa head Griggio planer (same diameter cutting circle), but expect it to tear out less in highly figured woods. One big benefit of insert head IMO is the smaller chip delivered to my collector barrel.?? Dealing with small nicks is fairly easily dealt with on tersa given knife shift. Using different knife sets for nasty material (like reclaimed) is a plus for Tersa. Enjoy your fine machines!
Marlowe McGraw? Hi, I am upgrading to Martin T45 and T54 machines looking for advice on cutterheads. Tersa or carbide insert???
Jay Bowen
Cleveland
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Tom Gensmer
David P. Best
Joe Jensen