Re: To Keep or not to keep Cabinet saw

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I kept my saw stop cabinet saw when I purchased my k700. ?I use that one for dado set up and some ripping operations. It's always nice to have available if I have the k700 set up with something specific and I don't want to lose my settings or change out the blades. I find it quite helpful to have both but understand it's a luxury and probably not cost effective for most.

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On Mar 7, 2023, at 9:13 AM, H <horacio.nochetto@...> wrote:

?
Hello. New Hammer K3 owner?here.?

I am just now starting to do projects with my Hammer K3 sliding table saw and have noticed that what I previously read was true. Ripping on a sliding table is very different from a cabinet saw. Using the saw's rip fence like a cabinet saw produces angled cuts, unless the slide table is level to the cast iron. I have gathered that this "leveling" is typically unwanted?because?of drag during cross cuts. Is this true? Do any have experience?with this setup?

Most seem to use a Frtiz and Franz for short to medium size boards and/or parallel fences. I have a Fritz and Franz but as I am a new user, I am not comfortable?with ripping on the Hammer.?

I still have my old cabinet saw, but its?"only" a 1.75hp Laguna F2 and in comparison a bit weak and "cheap" feeling to the hammer. I would rather work with the Hammer.?

So as I see it here are my options.?

1. Sell the cabinet saw and use the proceeds for Hammer k3 Accessories?like clamps and maybe parallel fences. I already have a "Fritz and Franz."
2. Keep the cabinet saw and use it for Ripping. Perhaps upgrade it to a 3hp machine.
3. Not ask others what to do with my life.?

What are your thoughts as experienced sliding table saw users?

Thanks

Re: To Keep or not to keep Cabinet saw

#129089

Possibly the odd opinion out here, but ripping with a track saw is also an option. Even before I had my slider that was better than ripping on my oliver 270d.

There are some good fixtures options from both festool and aftermarket.

Get

On Mar 7, 2023, at 7:29 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:

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The slider has to be at least .003-.006” above the cast iron top or you will have dragging issues, especially if you clamp your material down. I have mine set at about .004” at the closest and I have clamped material down and it locks the sliding table in place because of drag on the saw table.

Rip with the slider, use the “rip” fence as a length stop, you will have much better results.

Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com

On Mar 7, 2023, at 6:45 AM, H <horacio.nochetto@...> wrote:

Hello. New Hammer K3 owner?here.?

I am just now starting to do projects with my Hammer K3 sliding table saw and have noticed that what I previously read was true. Ripping on a sliding table is very different from a cabinet saw. Using the saw's rip fence like a cabinet saw produces angled cuts, unless the slide table is level to the cast iron. I have gathered that this "leveling" is typically unwanted?because?of drag during cross cuts. Is this true? Do any have experience?with this setup?

Most seem to use a Frtiz and Franz for short to medium size boards and/or parallel fences. I have a Fritz and Franz but as I am a new user, I am not comfortable?with ripping on the Hammer.?

I still have my old cabinet saw, but its?"only" a 1.75hp Laguna F2 and in comparison a bit weak and "cheap" feeling to the hammer. I would rather work with the Hammer.?

So as I see it here are my options.?

1. Sell the cabinet saw and use the proceeds for Hammer k3 Accessories?like clamps and maybe parallel fences. I already have a "Fritz and Franz."

2. Keep the cabinet saw and use it for Ripping. Perhaps upgrade it to a 3hp machine.

3. Not ask others what to do with my life.?

What are your thoughts as experienced sliding table saw users?

Thanks

Re: To Keep or not to keep Cabinet saw

#129088

Hi H (what's your name?),?

Since you're asking, my suggestion would be to take the time to dial-in your sliding table so it's ~0.1mm-0.2mm above the cast iron. This alignment should prevent "dragging", while at the same time shouldn't result in a meaningful deviation from square when ripping in the traditional manner. This alignment can be time consuming, and rather frustrating the first time or two, but I've found it to be worthwhile.?

Second, I'd suggest re-thinking some of your processes. I very rarely use my KF700 for ripping in the "traditional" sense (hand feeding, using the rip fence). These days, most of my ripping is done in the following methods:
? ? ?-- Using parallel guides on the sliding table
? ? ?-- Using the rip fence as a "bump stop" to index and align a cut, then clamping to slider (using F&F or Mac's clamps) and ripping using the slider
? ? ?-- Ripping on the band saw, with the understanding that most of my rips go through the thickness planer for final sizing/clean-up anyways

I'd suggest that you'll have a safer and more enjoyable woodworking experience selling your old cabinet saw, and using the funds to acquire parallel guides and Mac's clamps for your Hammer. My $0.02.

Good luck, and safe woodworking!?

--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN

Re: To Keep or not to keep Cabinet saw

#129087

开云体育

The slider has to be at least .003-.006” above the cast iron top or you will have dragging issues, especially if you clamp your material down. I have mine set at about .004” at the closest and I have clamped material down and it locks the sliding table in place because of drag on the saw table.

Rip with the slider, use the “rip” fence as a length stop, you will have much better results.

Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com

Show quoted text

On Mar 7, 2023, at 6:45 AM, H <horacio.nochetto@...> wrote:

Hello. New Hammer K3 owner?here.?

I am just now starting to do projects with my Hammer K3 sliding table saw and have noticed that what I previously read was true. Ripping on a sliding table is very different from a cabinet saw. Using the saw's rip fence like a cabinet saw produces angled cuts, unless the slide table is level to the cast iron. I have gathered that this "leveling" is typically unwanted?because?of drag during cross cuts. Is this true? Do any have experience?with this setup?

Most seem to use a Frtiz and Franz for short to medium size boards and/or parallel fences. I have a Fritz and Franz but as I am a new user, I am not comfortable?with ripping on the Hammer.?

I still have my old cabinet saw, but its?"only" a 1.75hp Laguna F2 and in comparison a bit weak and "cheap" feeling to the hammer. I would rather work with the Hammer.?

So as I see it here are my options.?

1. Sell the cabinet saw and use the proceeds for Hammer k3 Accessories?like clamps and maybe parallel fences. I already have a "Fritz and Franz."
2. Keep the cabinet saw and use it for Ripping. Perhaps upgrade it to a 3hp machine.
3. Not ask others what to do with my life.?

What are your thoughts as experienced sliding table saw users?

Thanks

Re: KF 700 spindle start up issue

#129086

Hi Kyle.

Thanks, I looked at mouser, couldn't?find anything that I needed in my area in 250v.......the majority are 400v

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On Tue, 7 Mar 2023 at 15:05, Kyle Jones <jones.kyle.m@...> wrote:

Hi,

I'd check Mouser:

Change the location and it should show you want is in stock in your area.? There are other electronics part suppliers that stock these as well.? ??

For what its worth, I use these TDK caps:??? These have an overpressure disconnector that disconnects power from the cap in the event they fail.

-Kyle

--

Kindest Regards

Jonathan Samways

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To Keep or not to keep Cabinet saw

#129085

Hello. New Hammer K3 owner?here.?

I am just now starting to do projects with my Hammer K3 sliding table saw and have noticed that what I previously read was true. Ripping on a sliding table is very different from a cabinet saw. Using the saw's rip fence like a cabinet saw produces angled cuts, unless the slide table is level to the cast iron. I have gathered that this "leveling" is typically unwanted?because?of drag during cross cuts. Is this true? Do any have experience?with this setup?

Most seem to use a Frtiz and Franz for short to medium size boards and/or parallel fences. I have a Fritz and Franz but as I am a new user, I am not comfortable?with ripping on the Hammer.?

I still have my old cabinet saw, but its?"only" a 1.75hp Laguna F2 and in comparison a bit weak and "cheap" feeling to the hammer. I would rather work with the Hammer.?

So as I see it here are my options.?

1. Sell the cabinet saw and use the proceeds for Hammer k3 Accessories?like clamps and maybe parallel fences. I already have a "Fritz and Franz."

2. Keep the cabinet saw and use it for Ripping. Perhaps upgrade it to a 3hp machine.

3. Not ask others what to do with my life.?

What are your thoughts as experienced sliding table saw users?

Thanks

Re: Phase perfect question

#129084

I was told by PP that generally higher startup loads and the PP loaded to the upper end of its rating will ?potentially cause the Capacitors to fail sooner in the older units, the more recent (maybe past few years, can’t remember) not as much because they have changed the way the current is handled. So for me I have a 10hp pp (maybe 10yrs old) and i start my 18hp Widebelt so he said to expect to change them at some point. Unless your worried about down time ( I am not) he said wait until you see issues then order the caps.

Re: Festool Clamp Adapter K940

#129083

开云体育

KVDD,

I have a Dremel 3D45 printer. I use Fusion 360 for design and Simplify 3D for a slicer. I print with PLA and vary the infill for strength.

HTH

Bill

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On Tue, Mar 7, 2023 at 00:16 kvdd via <keesjan=[email protected]> wrote:

Those are looking good Bill! A question out of curiosity, what machine and material do you print such parts? As I can image not every 3D printer will make these parts sturdy enough.?
I don't have a 3D printer, but when I see things like this I do think about it. But this also means learning some software to make the models. What software do you use?

Thanks,

kvdd

Re: KF 700 spindle start up issue

#129082

Hi,

I'd check Mouser:

Change the location and it should show you want is in stock in your area.? There are other electronics part suppliers that stock these as well.? ??

For what its worth, I use these TDK caps:??? These have an overpressure disconnector that disconnects power from the cap in the event they fail.

-Kyle

Re: KF 700 spindle start up issue

#129081

开云体育

Hi Jonathan,

I enjoyed working with you and learning about Andalusia ?

I confirmed with Felder that the brake board has no switch in the ground path, which could have explained the blowing of the fuse on the 24vac circuit.

If the fuse continues to blow with normal startup then the likely possibility is that the turn off suppression circuit of 1K1 or 1KS relays is compromised or bad.

Did you have any luck in reading the code? The flashes did not seem to have appropriate pauses for a 2 digit code. If you have a code, I should be able to find out what it means.

Imran Malik

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On Mar 7, 2023, at 3:07 AM, jontathan samways <jonathansamways@...> wrote:

?

Hi all.

An update that may help someone in the future.

So after?lots of testing with the help of Imran of this parish, we established it was the 24v side that was causing the problem.

The spindle was running fine with no load, motor NOT heating up.

Everything was pointing to the start caps, which were both new.

The light on the board that should be constant after?start up, was flashing, this flashing was obviously?a code, maybe Felder know this code but was a mystery to me. If any body understands these codes it would be interesting?to know.

So as I don't?have easy access?to start run caps, we decided there was a chance that if we swapped?the caps around we would find something different happened. BINGO one of the caps has a fault and now it's starting and running under load.

New caps ordered from Jeffs Emporium,(the only place I could find them in Europe) he kindly emailed me after?I had paid, to say that delivery was over one month,Grrrrr.

If anybody has a source of quality caps in Mainland Europe please share.

The star here was Imran! I thank him again for helping, I couldn't have done it without him.?

On Sun, 5 Mar 2023 at 07:45, jontathan samways via <jonathansamways=[email protected]> wrote:

I'm in the process of ordering new start and run caps.

Yes pulley is in correct?position.

Yes hold in the green button untill up to speed.....it blows the 24v fuse before it gets up to speed.?
This only occurs when the spindle is loaded.

I've have no issues with the spindle running with no load.

Fitted a new cap and still same issue, hopefully the new cap is bad, and the new batch will solve the problem.

Kindest regards

Jonathan Samways

On Sat, 4 Mar 2023, 10:43 pm rodsheridan, <riderofgallifrey@...> wrote:
Question number one, are you on the correct speed setting? ( pulley)

Question two, are you holding the start button until it’s up to speed?

If yes to both of the above, it’s possible that you have a failed start, or run capacitor as both are engaged during starting.

--

Kindest Regards

Jonathan Samways

Este mensaje se dirige exclusivamente a su destinatario y puede contener información privilegiada o confidencial. Si no es vd.el destinatario indicado, queda notificado de que la utilización, divulgación y/o copia sin autorización está prohibida en virtud de la legislación vigente. Si ha recibido este mensaje por error, le rogamos que nos lo comunique inmediatamente por esta misma vía y proceda a su destrucción.
This message is intended exclusively for its addressee and may contain information that is confidential and protected by professional privilege.If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination, copy or disclosure of this communication is strictly prohibited by law. If this message has been received in error, please immediately notify us via e-mail and delete it.

Re: KF 700 spindle start up issue

#129080