Possibly the odd opinion out here, but ripping with a track saw is also an option. Even before I had my slider that was better than ripping on my oliver 270d.
There are some good fixtures options from both festool and aftermarket.
Get
On Mar 7, 2023, at 7:29 AM, Brian Lamb <
blamb11@...> wrote:
The slider has to be at least .003-.006¡± above the cast iron top or you will have dragging issues, especially if you clamp your material down. I have mine set at about .004¡± at the closest and I have clamped material down and it locks the sliding table in place because of drag on the saw table.
Rip with the slider, use the ¡°rip¡± fence as a length stop, you will have much better results.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
On Mar 7, 2023, at 6:45 AM, H <horacio.nochetto@...> wrote:
Hello. New Hammer K3 owner?here.?
I am just now starting to do projects with my Hammer K3 sliding table saw and have noticed that what I previously read was true. Ripping on a sliding table is very different from a cabinet saw. Using the saw's rip fence like a cabinet saw produces angled cuts, unless the slide table is level to the cast iron. I have gathered that this "leveling" is typically unwanted?because?of drag during cross cuts. Is this true? Do any have experience?with this setup?
Most seem to use a Frtiz and Franz for short to medium size boards and/or parallel fences. I have a Fritz and Franz but as I am a new user, I am not comfortable?with ripping on the Hammer.?
I still have my old cabinet saw, but its?"only" a 1.75hp Laguna F2 and in comparison a bit weak and "cheap" feeling to the hammer. I would rather work with the Hammer.?
So as I see it here are my options.?
1. Sell the cabinet saw and use the proceeds for Hammer k3 Accessories?like clamps and maybe parallel fences. I already have a "Fritz and Franz."
2. Keep the cabinet saw and use it for Ripping. Perhaps upgrade it to a 3hp machine.
3. Not ask others what to do with my life.?
What are your thoughts as experienced sliding table saw users?
Thanks
