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Re: Airtight Clamps on a K700S
K940s Lowered the handle and fit both connections on the right side. Added benefit, long t nuts can now slide directly in the end over the handle. These clamps are a must have for anyone impatient.
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Re: Overhead saw guard question
It seems my guard is slightly different. There are three roller bearings and a spring that applies pressure to the plastic bearing guides.
The ends of the posts have eccentric threaded holes, but it looks like the bearings are not on eccentric shafts. One of the posts has no function other than to hold the cover over the guard. I reduced the pressure on the spring to the point that it just barely keeps from dropping when I release the guard. It is much better now - still stiff and not very smooth acting, but now I can move it with one hand while leaning over the outrigger. -- John Hinman Boise ID K700S, and expecting an A941 in April 2022 |
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Re: F & F versus Parallel Guide
I just recalibrated my last night using a machinist setup block. My mfd sub fence ends are cut off by the blade and using the setup block flush to the end on both Fritz and Franz I move the stops, tighten the white thumb screws to engage the Incra racks ( metric on my setup) and then loosen the two black knobs to fine adjust the stops.? |
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Re: Airtight Clamps on a K700S
My switch configuration is different and did not lend itself to the treatments I've seen before. So here is what I came up with, which worked out very well and didn't require anything other than drilling the end plates and the tray. - just in case anyone out there with my configuration is scratching their head, as I did for a while! |
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Re: F & F versus Parallel Guide
I use my F & F for smaller cuts. A 1 x 1 x 1 would be perfect. I've cut a piece down to a 1/4" cube without issue, just for fun. I usually don't go much over 2 feet in length, depending on the width. You don't want the board to flex. If it's that thin, I'll clamp the piece.?
But that's just me. -- -- Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with a Hammer |
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F & F versus Parallel Guide
It occurred to me today, as I answered a question about ripping on a slider at WoodCentral forum, to re-post my reply here. Recently there was a thread on the Fritz and Franz fixture, and my reply must have made it appear that I no longer use one, and have instead moved to a parallel guide. I do have and use a F&F, but mine is a little different, and for reasons which are explained below. Perhaps this post will help others with short stroke K3 sliders. My slider is a ¡°short stroke¡± Hammer K3. This photo was taken shortly after I received it, about 4 years ago ¡
There are two features to this K3 that need to be mentioned in connection with ripping. The reason this is a ¡°short stroke¡± is that the wagon is shorter than most sliders. This one is 1250mm long (although it has a cutting length of 1350mm). The average slider is double this. The reason I chose for a short wagon is that I only work with solid wood and do not rip up sheet goods. If I needed to do so, I would break them down with a circular saw. The K3 has a small footprint, even less that the contractor table saw which lived here for 20 years. There is an even smaller version, with a 830mm slider. One might imagine that would be too short to rip on, as it may resemble the wagon on (say) a SawStop, The second feature of note on my K3 is that the crosscut fence on the wagon is attached at the start of the wagon. All sliders with full length wagons attach their fences at the far end. The relevance of this is that my slider wagon is set up with some features in reverse - giving it some advantages of a tablesaw. Here is a video of a Fritz & Franz jig ¡ The first version of my F&F was used in this way ..
I needed to set up a fence/stop at the end of the wagon ¡
This proved to be extra work - the F&F jig is intended for rapid use. It occurred to me that, since my K3 wagon was reversed, my F&F also needed to be reversed. The main crosscut fence has a zero stop for positioning boards, both for crosscutting or ripping ¡
The other end has a sliding stop, which can be locked down to the track (since we are pushing against it) ¡
The front has markings to match the crosscut fence ¡
While this F&F works really well - it is possible to rip 1¡±x1¡±x1¡± safely - I built another fixture for repeated rips and tapers. This is a?parallel guide. There is a full write up here: Mike Keinhop built this one ..
This is my version ¡
Here demonstrating a narrow rip, but it can do wide boards as well as tapered legs ¡
It may be added that a rip cut can be completed using the rip fence in the same manner as a table saw. This was my earlier post. However, rips off a slider, completed on the wagon, produce glue line joints. A totally different class of cut altogether. Regards from Perth Derek ? ? |
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Re: #Rebuilding Felder Router Spindle
#rebuilding
¿ªÔÆÌåÓý??I raised router spindle with shims on bench to align its bearing with shaper spindle and the belt location looks good. Just a visual check. Called Felder. No known similar issues per the tech. Since, the belt runs fine flipped he suggested I use it that way for a short while and see what happens. It is interesting that it does not chew bottom rib flipped. Maybe I installed it wrong again. Anyhow, spindle runs fine. I am happy to have a working router spindle. Updated the document in the files section. Just added couple of pics of assembled spindle, so no need to recheck it. Thanks again to all the help from FOG members. Imran On Mar 15, 2022, at 9:11 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?Well got the top and bottom locknuts from Felder. Tried the spindle and bearings don¡¯t seem to be getting hot but I have an issue with the belt. In another thread where the issues with the spindle were discussed, it was shared that the bottom rib sheared off of the new belt I got from Felder. Well same thing happened with the new belt which was a D&D belt I bought online. I am no longer sure if the first belt was damaged due to bad install. The belt is tight but the flex seems comparable to the std. shaper spindle. Here are 2 short videos showing how much belt flexes under ~equal pressure. Should I reduce tension on the belts. I will also call felder tomorrow. How can I determine if there is miss alignment between spindle and motor pulley? As I write this, maybe a measurement comparison of the shaper spindle with router spindle can give me an idea. BTW, the damaged 8 rib belts appear to run okay if I position the missing rib on top. Not sure, what would be wrong if I just use these belts. Imran |
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Re: Airtight Clamps on a K700S
Wade, I did not have to notch out any aluminum to install mine. I have a Kappa so it might be different, but I don't think so. Mac makes a fine product, You might think its pricey but when you get them you will understand why. It is the best accessory I have ever bought. I was a little confused but Mac jumped on the phone with me and walked me through the install. You can't ask for more than that. Glen? ? ? Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc. Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486 ?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247 ????????? 209-540-7501 LIC # 707507 On Wed, Mar 16, 2022 at 6:13 PM Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
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Re: Airtight Clamps on a K700S
Wade, Mac¡¯s clamps are an investment but it absolutely is the best accessory I have added. He will send you a drilling template for your model. Mine looks like Steve¡¯s and David Best setup, the fitting don¡¯t have any room to spare but did fit without cutting any webbing. Once you have the clamps you will wonder how you managed without them, I use them on most every cut.?
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Re: Airtight Clamps on a K700S
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýMark Kessler, Thank you for sharing. ?Which brand are yours? ?Are your fittings also quick connect style? Thx, Wade On Mar 16, 2022, at 5:46 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
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JP Rice
Bill Hope
imran