My initial thought is your clamp wheel appears to behind the blade? Causing the gap to close after the blade, thus squeezing the blade and creating heat. ? Hard to tell from the camera position.?
The blade is so thin and long it will dissipate heat quickly. ?Length will allow convective cooling.?
As others have said steam could be a possibility, run over and smell it!
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On Feb 16, 2022, at 7:53 PM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:
? Imran,
My first reaction was that?it was steam, check the moisture content of the wood.
Btw, I have that Aigner resaw pressure module, I have the one-wheel and two-wheel accessory. I use a two-wheel accessory when resawing, it works great. The only shortcoming is it is not spring loaded.
James
Thanks Joe and Jarred. I should have added there were no knots and I am using carbide resaw king. No burn marks on the wood either. No problem resawing, you can tell from my feed rate; so not a dull blade.?I was wondering if it was steam.?
Imran On Feb 16, 2022, at 10:11 PM, Joe Jensen < joe@...> wrote: ?Seems if there is burning after hitting knots then it’s likely the blade is dull.? ? I don't know what the cause is, but I've experienced the same thing on both WRC and most recently Tennessee Aromatic Cedar. I believe it had something to do with hitting the knots, but I was certain I was going to get a burning ember into my dust collector and be quite sad. I don't see any apparent knots on the boards you're sawing though, so that may not be?the case. Sorry about the video resolution. I don’t recall this happening with iphone 7 but iphone 13 does this resolution reduction w/o asking. Anyhow, can still see the smoke just not as clearly as in full resolution.
Imran
On Feb 16, 2022, at 9:40 PM, Imran Malik <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?I did some resawing today. Splitting 2x8 WRC. On some boards, I saw smoke coming out at the beginning of the cut but the blade was cold to touch after I finished. Does anyone know what is happening?
Short video attached.
Imran
|
Re: Clamps and accessories
David,
No. Any Festool-like quick ratcheting?clamp works great on the PantoRouter.
If I had the milling machine, I would make the steel t-nuts with the slot at the bottom, so I can use the Festool clamp on the slider.
James
> I have the Kreg automaxx clamp on the sliding table.
>
> The problem is it may move the wood when clamping it, because not only it applies the downward pressure, but also pulls the stock under the clamping pad.
The PantoRouter is probably a fitting application for those clamps.? LOL
David Best
|
Re: Wide belt grit selection
Jason, I don’t think he was a rep but I don’t know how much he really knows.
So you are saying that 120 then 150 cloth with platen then RO right??
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On Feb 16, 2022, at 10:55 PM, Jason Holtz <jholtzy@...> wrote:
? I'd have to beg to differ with the Klingspore guy, and if it's anything like up here, they can't keep a rep longer than 12 months...
On my 43" Sandya, there's 120 grit cloth backed belt in there 90% of the time, with the hard platen. The only time that belt comes off, and the platen comes out is if I'm needing to thickness a slab that's wider than my 24" planer. Then I put in a 80, or even a 60 on occasion if I'm really hogging off material. I get it close then back to the 120 grit and platen. Using the platen will always give you a better finish than just the drum. It also makes your belts last longer because they heat up less. I go from 120 on the widebelt to 150 then 220 on my orbital. 320, 400, 600 if it's furniture getting my Livos oil finish.
I have a?180 grit belt, but I rarely ever put it on. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Re: Wide belt grit selection
I'd have to beg to differ with the Klingspore guy, and if it's anything like up here, they can't keep a rep longer than 12 months...
On my 43" Sandya, there's 120 grit cloth backed belt in there 90% of the time, with the hard platen. The only time that belt comes off, and the platen comes out is if I'm needing to thickness a slab that's wider than my 24" planer. Then I put in a 80, or even a 60 on occasion if I'm really hogging off material. I get it close then back to the 120 grit and platen. Using the platen will always give you a better finish than just the drum. It also makes your belts last longer because they heat up less. I go from 120 on the widebelt to 150 then 220 on my orbital. 320, 400, 600 if it's furniture getting my Livos oil finish.
I have a?180 grit belt, but I rarely ever put it on. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Imran,
My first reaction was that?it was steam, check the moisture content of the wood.
Btw, I have that Aigner resaw pressure module, I have the one-wheel and two-wheel accessory. I use a two-wheel accessory when resawing, it works great. The only shortcoming is it is not spring loaded.
James
Thanks Joe and Jarred. I should have added there were no knots and I am using carbide resaw king. No burn marks on the wood either. No problem resawing, you can tell from my feed rate; so not a dull blade.?I was wondering if it was steam.?
Imran On Feb 16, 2022, at 10:11 PM, Joe Jensen < joe@...> wrote: ?Seems if there is burning after hitting knots then it’s likely the blade is dull.? ? I don't know what the cause is, but I've experienced the same thing on both WRC and most recently Tennessee Aromatic Cedar. I believe it had something to do with hitting the knots, but I was certain I was going to get a burning ember into my dust collector and be quite sad. I don't see any apparent knots on the boards you're sawing though, so that may not be?the case. Sorry about the video resolution. I don’t recall this happening with iphone 7 but iphone 13 does this resolution reduction w/o asking. Anyhow, can still see the smoke just not as clearly as in full resolution.
Imran
On Feb 16, 2022, at 9:40 PM, Imran Malik <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?I did some resawing today. Splitting 2x8 WRC. On some boards, I saw smoke coming out at the beginning of the cut but the blade was cold to touch after I finished. Does anyone know what is happening?
Short video attached.
Imran
|
Re: Clamps and accessories
I have the Kreg automaxx clamp on the sliding table.
The problem is it may move the wood when clamping it, because not only it applies the downward pressure, but also pulls the stock under the clamping pad. The PantoRouter is probably a fitting application for those clamps. LOL David Best
|
Steam could very well be the answer. I couldn't smell any smoke. I just saw it, if you didn't smell anything I'd assume steam is a likely culprit. Could also be a small sap pocket?
Thanks Joe and Jarred. I should have added there were no knots and I am using carbide resaw king. No burn marks on the wood either. No problem resawing, you can tell from my feed rate; so not a dull blade.?I was wondering if it was steam.?
Imran On Feb 16, 2022, at 10:11 PM, Joe Jensen < joe@...> wrote: ?Seems if there is burning after hitting knots then it’s likely the blade is dull.? ? I don't know what the cause is, but I've experienced the same thing on both WRC and most recently Tennessee Aromatic Cedar. I believe it had something to do with hitting the knots, but I was certain I was going to get a burning ember into my dust collector and be quite sad. I don't see any apparent knots on the boards you're sawing though, so that may not be?the case. Sorry about the video resolution. I don’t recall this happening with iphone 7 but iphone 13 does this resolution reduction w/o asking. Anyhow, can still see the smoke just not as clearly as in full resolution.
Imran
On Feb 16, 2022, at 9:40 PM, Imran Malik <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?I did some resawing today. Splitting 2x8 WRC. On some boards, I saw smoke coming out at the beginning of the cut but the blade was cold to touch after I finished. Does anyone know what is happening?
Short video attached.
Imran
|
Thanks Joe and Jarred. I should have added there were no knots and I am using carbide resaw king. No burn marks on the wood either. No problem resawing, you can tell from my feed rate; so not a dull blade.?I was wondering if it was steam.?
Imran
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On Feb 16, 2022, at 10:11 PM, Joe Jensen <joe@...> wrote: ? Seems if there is burning after hitting knots then it’s likely the blade is dull.? On Feb 16, 2022, at 8:09 PM, Jared Leach <leach.jared@...> wrote:
? I don't know what the cause is, but I've experienced the same thing on both WRC and most recently Tennessee Aromatic Cedar. I believe it had something to do with hitting the knots, but I was certain I was going to get a burning ember into my dust collector and be quite sad. I don't see any apparent knots on the boards you're sawing though, so that may not be?the case. Sorry about the video resolution. I don’t recall this happening with iphone 7 but iphone 13 does this resolution reduction w/o asking. Anyhow, can still see the smoke just not as clearly as in full resolution.
Imran
On Feb 16, 2022, at 9:40 PM, Imran Malik <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?I did some resawing today. Splitting 2x8 WRC. On some boards, I saw smoke coming out at the beginning of the cut but the blade was cold to touch after I finished. Does anyone know what is happening?
Short video attached.
Imran
|
Re: Clamps and accessories
I have the Kreg automaxx clamp on the sliding table.?
The problem is it may move the wood when clamping it, because not only it applies the downward pressure, but also pulls the stock under the clamping pad.
James
Thank you David,
For me, I’m sold on the Kreg KBC3 automaxx clamps and adapting them to a metal T-nut.? My thought are with metal only versus anything else, only because I want to get them made and then move on.? They're a great clamp.? This way I get things building again, which means I’m making money to save for Mac’s clamps down the road. ?
Wade
?Wade & John,
I posted earlier that there are no commercially available T-nuts that fit the Felder X-Roll sliding table slots.? You can make your own from a variety of materials and components, or ask one of the people here who are equipped with mills, to make one for your if you want one make of metal.? I disagree with a previous post that steel is inappropriate for this application - if the T-nut is machined correctly, steel or stainless or brass or bronze, or titanium are all fine and don’t have to destroy your sliding table T-slot.? If you need a metal t-nut or two, DM me - I make custom stuff like that all the time for FOG members.
I also posted a link to a drawing earlier showing the dimension of the Felder supplied T-nuts, so if you want to make your own, you know what fits. ???
Yes, you can make them out of flat material if you don’t need them locked down with precise registration - like on the short crosscut fence application.? Lots of people here have made them out of hardwood or plywood with a steel conventional T-nut such as the ones below inserted into the wood base.? Others have made similar units using a plastic like HDPE (cutting board material) or Delrin.? It all depends on the application and what you’re trying to secure to the slider.
Also, lots of people have adapted various hand-actuated clamps to the sliding table including the Bessey and Kreg auto-adjusting clamps.
 ??
You might also want to acquaint yourself with this if you’re considering a short crosscut fence and it’s locked-down T-nut.
I’ve been hunting for T-slot nuts for the k700s and McMaster Carr, just emailed me a response that basically said they can’t help me.? Strange, because I just watched a video where this person bought them from McMaster.? I even sent them my exact dimensions of the Felder supplied t nut.?
? The price on the Felder store is for one nut. I've spent a good amount of time trying to find and off-the-shelf nut from McMaster and Grainger, and ordered a couple I thought might work. I've been unsuccessful so far. Most tee (off-the-shelf) nuts are designed for use in cast iron (it seems). I wonder if I missed getting necessary accessories, like clamps and a ripping shoe, when I ordered my saw. I’ll chalk that up to not knowing much about the saw when I bought it.
I see that the Felder store is out of tee-nuts for the slider groove. They want $35, but it is not clear whether that is one nut or a handful. Any other sources for this sort of thing?
What are the dimensions of the tee-nuts? There is a wide variety of tee-nuts available through Grainger and Other industrial supply places, or I could have someone make a few for me, but I would have to know what dimensions to look for.
Thanks for any guidance!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
|
Looking for where to start with grits for a wide belt, i bought a used scmi sandya win cs63 24”. Delivery was supposed to be tomorrow but they found that they need to replace the conveyor belt so it will be another week or two.
It has a steel contact drum and a platen, my typical final grit is 180, hand sand.
I have 2 use cases 1. Re-sawn hardwood ~3/32, one side will be jointed the other bandsaw which will then be pressed on BB. 2. Hardwood parts?
After all the reading and research I came to the conclusion that for the resawn to start at 80 or 100 then 120 cloth no platen then 180 paper backed with the platen then quick RO 180 or just hand sand after assembly.
But then i talked to a tech at Klingspor and he said no platen start with 120 cloth with the re sawn and then go straight to 180 RO. If the 120 isn’t adequate then 100>120>RO180
For general hardwood pcs off the helical 120 cloth then RO180
So for all cases no platen, i thought there was a benefit to using the platen and he said do not use the platen with any cloth belt only paper, and really only at higher grits for sanding sealer for example
I would also like to eliminate the RO and just do a light hand sand but the tech told me not to because the straight line sanding from the widebelt will reveal itself over a week or less from expansion contraction.His recommendation was 100,120,and if i really wanted 180 all cloth and he also said open coat, I thought that with hardwood you would want closed but he said he recommends open coat on the 100 and 120 because the belt will run cooler and last longer and the closed will run hotter and be more aggressive? Any comments appreciated, sorry for the long post
|
Re: Clamps and accessories
If I were making a T-nut for the sliding table, I would choose the following material and use a conventional barrel-style T-nut inserted from below into a relieved (counterbored) hole.
I use this stuff for all kinds of jigs and fixtures in the shop. ?It’s also available from Tap Plastics if you happen to have a local outlet, and they will cut to size. ?
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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Can you drive the spikes into Delrin, or did they get glued in?
Thx,
Wade On Feb 16, 2022, at 6:51 PM, Michael March <mikek4qu@...> wrote:
?I made my T-Nuts using Delrin and threaded inserts.? The inserts are mounted on the bottom.
<photo _4_.JPG><photo _5_.JPG>
|
Re: Clamps and accessories
The challenge with the Kreg clamp (or any of the auto-adjusting types) is how to lock them down to a T-nut in the sliding table. ?That securing bolt is under the clamping arm, and comes up from below. ?So to have positioning flexibility, it would need to be loose enough to slide along the table. ?What you’d really want is a locking device that’s on top - something like a Kipp lever. ?If I were doing this, I’d mount the clamp to a plinth block that can accommodate a Kipp lever from above going down to a T-nut below. ? Like this:
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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Show quoted text
Thank you David,
For me, I’m sold on the Kreg KBC3 automaxx clamps and adapting them to a metal T-nut. ?My thought are with metal only versus anything else, only because I want to get them made and then move on. ?They're a great clamp. ?This way I get things building again, which means I’m making money to save for Mac’s clamps down the road. ?
Wade
? Wade & John,
I posted earlier that there are no commercially available T-nuts that fit the Felder X-Roll sliding table slots. ?You can make your own from a variety of materials and components, or ask one of the people here who are equipped with mills, to make one for your if you want one make of metal. ?I disagree with a previous post that steel is inappropriate for this application - if the T-nut is machined correctly, steel or stainless or brass or bronze, or titanium are all fine and don’t have to destroy your sliding table T-slot. ?If you need a metal t-nut or two, DM me - I make custom stuff like that all the time for FOG members.
I also posted a link to a drawing earlier showing the dimension of the Felder supplied T-nuts, so if you want to make your own, you know what fits. ???
Yes, you can make them out of flat material if you don’t need them locked down with precise registration - like on the short crosscut fence application. ?Lots of people here have made them out of hardwood or plywood with a steel conventional T-nut such as the ones below inserted into the wood base. ?Others have made similar units using a plastic like HDPE (cutting board material) or Delrin. ?It all depends on the application and what you’re trying to secure to the slider.
<screenshot_5474.jpg><screenshot_5475.jpg>
Also, lots of people have adapted various hand-actuated clamps to the sliding table including the Bessey and Kreg auto-adjusting clamps.
<7db5f7ec-b8f9-e1fd-fb75-4fd5d49f1067.jpeg>
<image009.jpg>??
You might also want to acquaint yourself with this if you’re considering a short crosscut fence and it’s locked-down T-nut.
I’ve been hunting for T-slot nuts for the k700s and McMaster Carr, just emailed me a response that basically said they can’t help me. ?Strange, because I just watched a video where this person bought them from McMaster. ?I even sent them my exact dimensions of the Felder supplied t nut.?
? The price on the Felder store is for one nut. I've spent a good amount of time trying to find and off-the-shelf nut from McMaster and Grainger, and ordered a couple I thought might work. I've been unsuccessful so far. Most tee (off-the-shelf) nuts are designed for use in cast iron (it seems). I wonder if I missed getting necessary accessories, like clamps and a ripping shoe, when I ordered my saw. I’ll chalk that up to not knowing much about the saw when I bought it.
I see that the Felder store is out of tee-nuts for the slider groove. They want $35, but it is not clear whether that is one nut or a handful. Any other sources for this sort of thing?
What are the dimensions of the tee-nuts? There is a wide variety of tee-nuts available through Grainger and Other industrial supply places, or I could have someone make a few for me, but I would have to know what dimensions to look for.
Thanks for any guidance!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
|
Seems if there is burning after hitting knots then it’s likely the blade is dull.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 16, 2022, at 8:09 PM, Jared Leach <leach.jared@...> wrote:
? I don't know what the cause is, but I've experienced the same thing on both WRC and most recently Tennessee Aromatic Cedar. I believe it had something to do with hitting the knots, but I was certain I was going to get a burning ember into my dust collector and be quite sad. I don't see any apparent knots on the boards you're sawing though, so that may not be?the case. Sorry about the video resolution. I don’t recall this happening with iphone 7 but iphone 13 does this resolution reduction w/o asking. Anyhow, can still see the smoke just not as clearly as in full resolution.
Imran
On Feb 16, 2022, at 9:40 PM, Imran Malik <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?I did some resawing today. Splitting 2x8 WRC. On some boards, I saw smoke coming out at the beginning of the cut but the blade was cold to touch after I finished. Does anyone know what is happening?
Short video attached.
Imran
|
I don't know what the cause is, but I've experienced the same thing on both WRC and most recently Tennessee Aromatic Cedar. I believe it had something to do with hitting the knots, but I was certain I was going to get a burning ember into my dust collector and be quite sad. I don't see any apparent knots on the boards you're sawing though, so that may not be?the case.
Sorry about the video resolution. I don’t recall this happening with iphone 7 but iphone 13 does this resolution reduction w/o asking. Anyhow, can still see the smoke just not as clearly as in full resolution.
Imran
On Feb 16, 2022, at 9:40 PM, Imran Malik <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?I did some resawing today. Splitting 2x8 WRC. On some boards, I saw smoke coming out at the beginning of the cut but the blade was cold to touch after I finished. Does anyone know what is happening?
Short video attached.
Imran
|
Sorry about the video resolution. I don’t recall this happening with iphone 7 but iphone 13 does this resolution reduction w/o asking. Anyhow, can still see the smoke just not as clearly as in full resolution.
Imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 16, 2022, at 9:40 PM, Imran Malik <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?I did some resawing today. Splitting 2x8 WRC. On some boards, I saw smoke coming out at the beginning of the cut but the blade was cold to touch after I finished. Does anyone know what is happening?
Short video attached.
Imran
|
Re: Clamps and accessories
Thank you David,
For me, I’m sold on the Kreg KBC3 automaxx clamps and adapting them to a metal T-nut. ?My thought are with metal only versus anything else, only because I want to get them made and then move on. ?They're a great clamp. ?This way I get things building again, which means I’m making money to save for Mac’s clamps down the road. ?
Wade
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 16, 2022, at 7:33 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
? Wade & John,
I posted earlier that there are no commercially available T-nuts that fit the Felder X-Roll sliding table slots. ?You can make your own from a variety of materials and components, or ask one of the people here who are equipped with mills, to make one for your if you want one make of metal. ?I disagree with a previous post that steel is inappropriate for this application - if the T-nut is machined correctly, steel or stainless or brass or bronze, or titanium are all fine and don’t have to destroy your sliding table T-slot. ?If you need a metal t-nut or two, DM me - I make custom stuff like that all the time for FOG members.
I also posted a link to a drawing earlier showing the dimension of the Felder supplied T-nuts, so if you want to make your own, you know what fits. ???
Yes, you can make them out of flat material if you don’t need them locked down with precise registration - like on the short crosscut fence application. ?Lots of people here have made them out of hardwood or plywood with a steel conventional T-nut such as the ones below inserted into the wood base. ?Others have made similar units using a plastic like HDPE (cutting board material) or Delrin. ?It all depends on the application and what you’re trying to secure to the slider.
Also, lots of people have adapted various hand-actuated clamps to the sliding table including the Bessey and Kreg auto-adjusting clamps.
 ??
You might also want to acquaint yourself with this if you’re considering a short crosscut fence and it’s locked-down T-nut.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
I’ve been hunting for T-slot nuts for the k700s and McMaster Carr, just emailed me a response that basically said they can’t help me. ?Strange, because I just watched a video where this person bought them from McMaster. ?I even sent them my exact dimensions of the Felder supplied t nut.?
? The price on the Felder store is for one nut. I've spent a good amount of time trying to find and off-the-shelf nut from McMaster and Grainger, and ordered a couple I thought might work. I've been unsuccessful so far. Most tee (off-the-shelf) nuts are designed for use in cast iron (it seems). I wonder if I missed getting necessary accessories, like clamps and a ripping shoe, when I ordered my saw. I’ll chalk that up to not knowing much about the saw when I bought it.
I see that the Felder store is out of tee-nuts for the slider groove. They want $35, but it is not clear whether that is one nut or a handful. Any other sources for this sort of thing?
What are the dimensions of the tee-nuts? There is a wide variety of tee-nuts available through Grainger and Other industrial supply places, or I could have someone make a few for me, but I would have to know what dimensions to look for.
Thanks for any guidance!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
|
I did some resawing today. Splitting 2x8 WRC. On some boards, I saw smoke coming out at the beginning of the cut but the blade was cold to touch after I finished. Does anyone know what is happening?
Short video attached.
Imran
|
Re: Clamps and accessories
Can you drive the spikes into Delrin, or did they get glued in?
Thx,
Wade
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 16, 2022, at 6:51 PM, Michael March <mikek4qu@...> wrote:
?I made my T-Nuts using Delrin and threaded inserts.? The inserts are mounted on the bottom.
 
|
Re: Clamps and accessories
I couldn’t agree more with what Lucky said below about Mac’s clamps. ?Absolutely of the most used and reliable items in my shop.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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On Feb 16, 2022, at 5:24 PM, David Luckensmeyer < dhluckens@...> wrote:
Hi Wade:
Spare a thought for Australians (like me) who pay in AUD, and are slugged with very significant freight, duty and taxes!
Mac’s clamps are the single most important “accessory” I’ve purchased in my shop, across all machines and all processes. Pneumatic clamps with the versatility of Mac’s are not easy to make. And it is the versatility that means that his clamps can be used in a commercial environment. I use them for just about every cut. The cut is better and safer, productivity goes way up, my fingers are safe, and they bring a smile to my lips.
You ask about other clamps. For sure, manual clamps work, and other pneumatic clamps work, but human nature often takes the path of least resistance. Mac’s clamps are so adaptable that they stay on my saw permanently and are superior (in my opinion) to the clamping versatility of the Fritz und Franz. This is my 7th year of owning a Kappa 400 in a commercial environment and I still have no use for a Fritz and Franz. No offence meant.
I have personally encouraged dozens of friends and colleagues to buy Mac’s clamps here in Australia. As one, they protest the cost, but as one, those that buy them stop talking about the cost and start crowing about how good they are.
Save your money and buy them.
Lucky (And no I don’t work for Mac. Just a happy customer.)
Glen,
Thank you for the info. ?They do look amazing. Does he have the market cornered on these, besides the ones Felder attempted?
Wade ? Wade, Mac's clamps are around 3k. I know it's a choker, but they are worth every penny and then some. It was my best investment to this day. So good I bought another set for the shaper. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
I did receive a ripping shoe with my K700S delivery, just last month. ?
Are macs clamps really 3K? ?
Thx,
Wade ?Clamps are extra cost accessories.? Buy the pneumatic clamps from Mac Campshure. ?
The ripping shoe should come with your machine.? All three saws I’ve purchased from Felder came with that attachment.? Now, it is possible they’ve discontinued the practice to save costs.? Someone who has recently received a machine should comment. ? If you have a pair of pneumatic clamps, the ripping shoe will stay on the shelf collecting dust.
You won’t find a commercially available T-nut that fits the Felder sliding table slot.? Mac Campshure provides them with his clamps, and I provide them with my short fence upgrade kits.? You can get the dimensions off this drawing: ?
What are you planning to use the T-nuts for?
I wonder if I missed getting necessary accessories, like clamps and a ripping shoe, when I ordered my saw. I’ll chalk that up to not knowing much about the saw when I bought it.
I see that the Felder store is out of tee-nuts for the slider groove. They want $35, but it is not clear whether that is one nut or a handful. Any other sources for this sort of thing?
What are the dimensions of the tee-nuts? There is a wide variety of tee-nuts available through Grainger and Other industrial supply places, or I could have someone make a few for me, but I would have to know what dimensions to look for.
Thanks for any guidance!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
|
Re: Clamps and accessories
Wade & John,
I posted earlier that there are no commercially available T-nuts that fit the Felder X-Roll sliding table slots. ?You can make your own from a variety of materials and components, or ask one of the people here who are equipped with mills, to make one for your if you want one make of metal. ?I disagree with a previous post that steel is inappropriate for this application - if the T-nut is machined correctly, steel or stainless or brass or bronze, or titanium are all fine and don’t have to destroy your sliding table T-slot. ?If you need a metal t-nut or two, DM me - I make custom stuff like that all the time for FOG members.
I also posted a link to a drawing earlier showing the dimension of the Felder supplied T-nuts, so if you want to make your own, you know what fits. ???
Yes, you can make them out of flat material if you don’t need them locked down with precise registration - like on the short crosscut fence application. ?Lots of people here have made them out of hardwood or plywood with a steel conventional T-nut such as the ones below inserted into the wood base. ?Others have made similar units using a plastic like HDPE (cutting board material) or Delrin. ?It all depends on the application and what you’re trying to secure to the slider.
Also, lots of people have adapted various hand-actuated clamps to the sliding table including the Bessey and Kreg auto-adjusting clamps.
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You might also want to acquaint yourself with this if you’re considering a short crosscut fence and it’s locked-down T-nut.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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I’ve been hunting for T-slot nuts for the k700s and McMaster Carr, just emailed me a response that basically said they can’t help me. ?Strange, because I just watched a video where this person bought them from McMaster. ?I even sent them my exact dimensions of the Felder supplied t nut.?
? The price on the Felder store is for one nut. I've spent a good amount of time trying to find and off-the-shelf nut from McMaster and Grainger, and ordered a couple I thought might work. I've been unsuccessful so far. Most tee (off-the-shelf) nuts are designed for use in cast iron (it seems). I wonder if I missed getting necessary accessories, like clamps and a ripping shoe, when I ordered my saw. I’ll chalk that up to not knowing much about the saw when I bought it.
I see that the Felder store is out of tee-nuts for the slider groove. They want $35, but it is not clear whether that is one nut or a handful. Any other sources for this sort of thing?
What are the dimensions of the tee-nuts? There is a wide variety of tee-nuts available through Grainger and Other industrial supply places, or I could have someone make a few for me, but I would have to know what dimensions to look for.
Thanks for any guidance!
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John Hinman
Boise ID
Not a Felder Owner yet - expecting K700S in February and A941 in April 2022
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Jason Holtz
David P. Best
imran
Joe Jensen