Re: replacing a sliding table saw with a CNC router
I just got it hooked up the other day, and my son stole my clamp on amp meter yesterday¡ so I¡¯ll have to wit until I get it back from him. The paperwork I have from Black Box says the motors are 7.5amps, and there are four inside the Hurricane, so it¡¯s supposed to draw 30amps. That would be all pipes wide open, which you won¡¯t run that way, you¡¯ll zone down and probably be sucking thru the spoil board and have parts stuck on top, so you will most likely be drawing 20-25 amps most of the time in use, that¡¯s with 4 motors running and from what I hear, if I¡¯m cutting full 4x8 sheets, I can run two motors and get enough hold down. Then you¡¯d be drawing 10-12 amps type of thing.
One bad thing¡ it¡¯s noisy¡ I won¡¯t be running it without the shop doors all shut or the neighbors will get real tired of it, real fast. The vane style pumps are quite a bit less noise¡ but again, this is what I found (used) and could afford, both monetarily and electrical draw.
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On May 24, 2021, at 2:00 PM, Michael Garrison Stuber < mtgstuber@...> wrote:
Brian, ??? I really appreciate the tip to the Hurricane unit.? I didn't
know it existed.? Have you ever measured how many amps the system
draws in practice?
On 5/24/2021 9:29 AM, Brian Lamb wrote:
1. CNC is indeed repeatable, results vary somewhat with size of
end mills, depth of cut and feed rates. Good methods and practices
are still required though.
2. Software is ?great, just depends upon what you
want to pay. Mozaik is probably the best out there, but it will
cost you $125-$150 a month subscription fee to do what you want.
I found another option as I don¡¯t need the fancy
visualization/rendering software for customer presentations.
Cabinet Parts Pro, I think it¡¯s called, free to try (will do up
to so many sheets of material at once) or $250 for the full
version. As for how long it takes, not very much¡ I did a two
drawer box, blind dado construction and even made the drawer
boxes as a first test and had it done in an hour on the
computer, then took way less than 30 minutes to cut it out¡. and
that was the very first time using the software.
3. You don¡¯t need 50hp vacuum pumps. I went with a
Black Box Hurricane, runs on 220V single phase less than 30
amps. It pulls 11¡± of vacuum and is more than adequate for a 4x8
machine cutting sheet goods. If you want to cut solid wood, buy
pods and get a decent sized vacuum pump like a Welch, or even an
air powered vacuum generator, although those suck a lot of CFM
of air.
I¡¯ve lusted after
a CNC for 20 years for my hobby shop. I am an
engineer who has worked in high tech for 36 years so
the CNC stuff is definitely of interest.? As I¡¯ve
dug in a few things I¡¯ve concluded;
- CNC ideal for precision
- CNC of sheet goods is
awesome with the right software
- Holding down material is
critical.? Big sheet good CNCs use huge vacuum
pumps, like 50HP.? Hardwood, I expect would be
fiddly. If you got a high end CNC with movable
vacuum pods maybe.
- With CNC you go from human
dexterity skills to CAD skills
?
In the end I keep
thinking for the kind of things I build, furniture
and cabinets, it would take a lot longer to do with
a CNC with a high percentage of that time spent on
the computer.? That said, unless I am building a
cabinet to fit in specific place I don¡¯t really do
plans or cut lists.
?
?
Hi,
I am trying to find a replacement for my sliding table
saw that takes less space but still allows to build
hardwood furnitures, builtins, closet systems, kitchen
cabinets.. I am not interested in a standard table saw
and I plan to keep my jointer/planer, miter saw for
some of the hardwood task. I know that CNC routers
with flat bed are really good for cabinet box/sheet
good, but it seems that the new machines with some pod
tables are able to manage hardwood too. I am not a
production shop, just looking to see if I can reduce
the footprint (2 times the sliding table length, the
rip capacity and the outrigger).
If anyone has insight on using a CNC for sheet good
and hardwood and would like to share, I will
appreciate. In term of machines, I am looking at
middle to high end version from Shopsabre, CAmaster,
Freedom Patriot as they all offer compact design for a
4x8 table.
I know that there is a learning curve from software
and cutting technics (flow, order, tooling, holding
parts), but as hobbyist I do not see any issue with
that.
Thanks for all feedback,
Bill?
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
|
Hi Greg:
I¡¯ve used both the Trimaster and the CT Woodmaster extensively. The latter blade is less expensive and yet cuts faster and more smoothly. I no longer buy Trimaster blades as a result.? In your quest for a smooth resaw result, consider trying the CT Woodmaster.?
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On 25 May 2021, at 5:52 am, Greg Mix <gregnmix@...> wrote:
? Thanks for your answer Tom. Interesting to know there¡¯s a way to order custom tires. Fortunately I don¡¯t have any tracking problems with either my Trimaster or 1/2¡± Dimaster blades on the flat tires. I should have been clearer. I asked the question because I¡¯m trying to improve the quality of cut. It¡¯s pretty good, but I¡¯ve seen the veneers Jim gets with the same saw and will admit to a bit of envy. I too shim the fence a bit but this thread has me wondering whether my blade setup is optimum. Other than centering to the back of the gullet, I more or less follow the Snodgrass approach. He claims there¡¯s no such thing as drift as do others. Not sure I buy it but am retaining an open mind. If there¡¯s a way to get better cuts without tweaking the fence, I¡¯d love to. I¡¯m still interested in thoughts about blade centering if anybody has any.?
|
I recently bought a 610 and found a video from Peter Sefton that was invaluable (he sets up a 510).? If you¡¯ve got the rails on your table, he adjusts them to square the fence to the blade.? Video download was inexpensive and, while basic, is more or less specific to the felder so I thought easily worth it. ? (For what its worth, I bought the one for the planer as well.? Again, he sets up a felder.)
Mike
I have an FB510 and have been able to adjust the table for drift.? I also have a shopmade resaw fence which can be tweaked via shims to fine tune for drift. I don't use the t slot so that is not a consideration for me.
?Drift is important for great off-tkoihe-saw results because excess drift will hold up the blade which then takes little jumps and makes a rough cut.??
It is true that moving the FB table is awkward and hard to finetune so I don't do it very?often.? If it is close, easier to shim the fence.
|
Re: replacing a sliding table saw with a CNC router
Brian,
??? I really appreciate the tip to the Hurricane unit.? I didn't
know it existed.? Have you ever measured how many amps the system
draws in practice?
On 5/24/2021 9:29 AM, Brian Lamb wrote:
1. CNC is indeed repeatable, results vary somewhat with size of
end mills, depth of cut and feed rates. Good methods and practices
are still required though.
2. Software is ?great, just depends upon what you
want to pay. Mozaik is probably the best out there, but it will
cost you $125-$150 a month subscription fee to do what you want.
I found another option as I don¡¯t need the fancy
visualization/rendering software for customer presentations.
Cabinet Parts Pro, I think it¡¯s called, free to try (will do up
to so many sheets of material at once) or $250 for the full
version. As for how long it takes, not very much¡ I did a two
drawer box, blind dado construction and even made the drawer
boxes as a first test and had it done in an hour on the
computer, then took way less than 30 minutes to cut it out¡. and
that was the very first time using the software.
3. You don¡¯t need 50hp vacuum pumps. I went with a
Black Box Hurricane, runs on 220V single phase less than 30
amps. It pulls 11¡± of vacuum and is more than adequate for a 4x8
machine cutting sheet goods. If you want to cut solid wood, buy
pods and get a decent sized vacuum pump like a Welch, or even an
air powered vacuum generator, although those suck a lot of CFM
of air.
I¡¯ve lusted after
a CNC for 20 years for my hobby shop. I am an
engineer who has worked in high tech for 36 years so
the CNC stuff is definitely of interest.? As I¡¯ve
dug in a few things I¡¯ve concluded;
- CNC ideal for precision
- CNC of sheet goods is
awesome with the right software
- Holding down material is
critical.? Big sheet good CNCs use huge vacuum
pumps, like 50HP.? Hardwood, I expect would be
fiddly. If you got a high end CNC with movable
vacuum pods maybe.
- With CNC you go from human
dexterity skills to CAD skills
?
In the end I keep
thinking for the kind of things I build, furniture
and cabinets, it would take a lot longer to do with
a CNC with a high percentage of that time spent on
the computer.? That said, unless I am building a
cabinet to fit in specific place I don¡¯t really do
plans or cut lists.
?
?
Hi,
I am trying to find a replacement for my sliding table
saw that takes less space but still allows to build
hardwood furnitures, builtins, closet systems, kitchen
cabinets.. I am not interested in a standard table saw
and I plan to keep my jointer/planer, miter saw for
some of the hardwood task. I know that CNC routers
with flat bed are really good for cabinet box/sheet
good, but it seems that the new machines with some pod
tables are able to manage hardwood too. I am not a
production shop, just looking to see if I can reduce
the footprint (2 times the sliding table length, the
rip capacity and the outrigger).
If anyone has insight on using a CNC for sheet good
and hardwood and would like to share, I will
appreciate. In term of machines, I am looking at
middle to high end version from Shopsabre, CAmaster,
Freedom Patriot as they all offer compact design for a
4x8 table.
I know that there is a learning curve from software
and cutting technics (flow, order, tooling, holding
parts), but as hobbyist I do not see any issue with
that.
Thanks for all feedback,
Bill?
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
|
Thanks for your answer Tom. Interesting to know there¡¯s a way to order custom tires. Fortunately I don¡¯t have any tracking problems with either my Trimaster or 1/2¡± Dimaster blades on the flat tires. I should have been clearer. I asked the question because I¡¯m trying to improve the quality of cut. It¡¯s pretty good, but I¡¯ve seen the veneers Jim gets with the same saw and will admit to a bit of envy. I too shim the fence a bit but this thread has me wondering whether my blade setup is optimum. Other than centering to the back of the gullet, I more or less follow the Snodgrass approach. He claims there¡¯s no such thing as drift as do others. Not sure I buy it but am retaining an open mind. If there¡¯s a way to get better cuts without tweaking the fence, I¡¯d love to. I¡¯m still interested in thoughts about blade centering if anybody has any.?
|
I've had good luck in the past with companies like Fastenal and Lawson Products as they often give you the bins as a commercial customer for repeat business and restocking.? Here's an example of what I just found at Lawson:
I know I bought a cheap Harbor Freight bin assortment with similar bins for uber cheap and they have worked out great. They self-nest and need no tools to use/assemble/break down.
Like you, I've searched for good drawers but they never seem to work right, so this is where I ended up.?
I have been using "Dandy Drawers" for many years for nuts and bolts and such for over 25 years.? Super cost heavy and well made plastic drawers where you build a simple carcass to hold them.? I 40 drawers today and need more space.? I went to order more and it seems they are out of business :)
Here is a link to what they were.?
The drawers I am using are about 2" deep and reconfigurable.? I like that I can take the drawer to the bench and then put it back so I would want something that is mobile like that.? I am looking for ideas.? Pics help :)
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
I have been using "Dandy Drawers" for many years for nuts and bolts and such for over 25 years.? Super cost heavy and well made plastic drawers where you build a simple carcass to hold them.? I 40 drawers today and need more space.? I went to order more and it seems they are out of business :)
Here is a link to what they were.?
http://www.dandydrawers.com/
The drawers I am using are about 2" deep and reconfigurable.? I like that I can take the drawer to the bench and then put it back so I would want something that is mobile like that.? I am looking for ideas.? Pics help :)
|
Greg, I'm very much a noobie when it comes to band saws, but here are my observations from the last year or so with my Laguna LT14SUV (Asian-made, Euro-style 14" band saw, 3hp, ~14" resaw capacity):
-- Saw ships with crowned, rubber tires
-- I found it really easy to get the blades to track properly
-- I would occasionally forget to release the tension on the blade at the end of the day (I know I know, deep rabbit hole there), and the next day the saw ran REALLY rough due to the deformation of the rubber tires overnight
-- To alleviate the above issue, I replaced the stock crowned, rubber tires with aftermarket flat, urethane tires
-- The urethane tires alleviated the flat spot issue, but I found it nearly impossible to get my blades to track properly. My 1" Laguna Resaw King tracked ok (blade centered on wheel, with teeth just overhanding the front of the tire), but my regular steel 3/4", 1/2", and 1/4" blades walked all over the tire. It was a real mess.?
-- I ultimately ordered a set of?crowned, urethane tires from Sulphur Grove Tools??For my specific machine and work habits, these tires have been exactly what I needed. I regularly swap between my blades (mostly my 1" Resaw King and 1/4" scrolling blade) (I desperately want a second band saw!), and haven't needed to touch the tracking knob in months. I simply go through the normal procedure of loosening all of the guides (etc-etc-etc....), swap blades, and as soon as I tension the blade and spin the upper wheel, the blade snaps to the center of the tire. So, my more narrow blades end up in the "Snodgrass Configuration" where the teeth are roughly centered on the tire, while my 1" carbide tipped blade naturally locates itself so the blade body is centered on the wheel, with the carbide teeth?just hanging off the edge of the tire.?
-- Sulphur Grove advertises that they will produce band saw tires in custom sizes, so if you're interested you could inquire about having a set produced for your FB510. I suspect you will not have been the first person to ask and they might already have some in inventory.?
I hope this helps!
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
Re: replacing a sliding table saw with a CNC router
1. CNC is indeed repeatable, results vary somewhat with size of end mills, depth of cut and feed rates. Good methods and practices are still required though.
2. Software is ?great, just depends upon what you want to pay. Mozaik is probably the best out there, but it will cost you $125-$150 a month subscription fee to do what you want. I found another option as I don¡¯t need the fancy visualization/rendering software for customer presentations. Cabinet Parts Pro, I think it¡¯s called, free to try (will do up to so many sheets of material at once) or $250 for the full version. As for how long it takes, not very much¡ I did a two drawer box, blind dado construction and even made the drawer boxes as a first test and had it done in an hour on the computer, then took way less than 30 minutes to cut it out¡. and that was the very first time using the software.
3. You don¡¯t need 50hp vacuum pumps. I went with a Black Box Hurricane, runs on 220V single phase less than 30 amps. It pulls 11¡± of vacuum and is more than adequate for a 4x8 machine cutting sheet goods. If you want to cut solid wood, buy pods and get a decent sized vacuum pump like a Welch, or even an air powered vacuum generator, although those suck a lot of CFM of air.
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Show quoted text
I¡¯ve lusted after a CNC for 20 years for my hobby shop. I am an engineer who has worked in high tech for 36 years so the CNC stuff is definitely of interest.? As I¡¯ve dug in a few things I¡¯ve concluded; - CNC ideal for precision
- CNC of sheet goods is awesome with the right software
- Holding down material is critical.? Big sheet good CNCs use huge vacuum pumps, like 50HP.? Hardwood, I expect would be fiddly. If you got a high end CNC with movable vacuum pods maybe.
- With CNC you go from human dexterity skills to CAD skills
? In the end I keep thinking for the kind of things I build, furniture and cabinets, it would take a lot longer to do with a CNC with a high percentage of that time spent on the computer.? That said, unless I am building a cabinet to fit in specific place I don¡¯t really do plans or cut lists. ? ? Hi,
I am trying to find a replacement for my sliding table saw that takes less space but still allows to build hardwood furnitures, builtins, closet systems, kitchen cabinets.. I am not interested in a standard table saw and I plan to keep my jointer/planer, miter saw for some of the hardwood task. I know that CNC routers with flat bed are really good for cabinet box/sheet good, but it seems that the new machines with some pod tables are able to manage hardwood too. I am not a production shop, just looking to see if I can reduce the footprint (2 times the sliding table length, the rip capacity and the outrigger).
If anyone has insight on using a CNC for sheet good and hardwood and would like to share, I will appreciate. In term of machines, I am looking at middle to high end version from Shopsabre, CAmaster, Freedom Patriot as they all offer compact design for a 4x8 table.
I know that there is a learning curve from software and cutting technics (flow, order, tooling, holding parts), but as hobbyist I do not see any issue with that.
Thanks for all feedback,
Bill?
|
I've watched all the Snodgrass videos and have had success with his method on my 14" Jet bandsaw. I have an FB510 too that I use for resawing with a 1" Trimaster carbide blade. The Snodgrass approach starts from the proposition that the blade is positioned with the back of the gullet at the centerline of the upper tire. That makes sense for regular steel blades with set teeth. But a carbide blade is supposed to be positioned with the teeth hanging off the edge of the tire. Felder tires are flat, not crowned like the tires Snodgrass uses. Does anyone know if the flatness eliminate the need for the centerline requirement or am I missing something??
|
Re: replacing a sliding table saw with a CNC router
I¡¯ve lusted after a CNC for 20 years for my hobby shop. I am an engineer who has worked in high tech for 36 years so the CNC stuff is definitely of
interest.? As I¡¯ve dug in a few things I¡¯ve concluded;
-
CNC ideal for precision
-
CNC of sheet goods is awesome with the right software
-
Holding down material is critical.? Big sheet good CNCs use huge vacuum pumps, like 50HP.? Hardwood, I expect would be fiddly. If you got a high end CNC with movable vacuum pods maybe.
-
With CNC you go from human dexterity skills to CAD skills
?
In the end I keep thinking for the kind of things I build, furniture and cabinets, it would take a lot longer to do with a CNC with a high percentage
of that time spent on the computer.? That said, unless I am building a cabinet to fit in specific place I don¡¯t really do plans or cut lists.
?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of Bill James via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2021 2:00 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [FOG] replacing a sliding table saw with a CNC router
?
Hi,
I am trying to find a replacement for my sliding table saw that takes less space but still allows to build hardwood furnitures, builtins, closet systems, kitchen cabinets.. I am not interested in a standard table saw and I plan to keep my jointer/planer, miter
saw for some of the hardwood task. I know that CNC routers with flat bed are really good for cabinet box/sheet good, but it seems that the new machines with some pod tables are able to manage hardwood too. I am not a production shop, just looking to see if
I can reduce the footprint (2 times the sliding table length, the rip capacity and the outrigger).
If anyone has insight on using a CNC for sheet good and hardwood and would like to share, I will appreciate. In term of machines, I am looking at middle to high end version from Shopsabre, CAmaster, Freedom Patriot as they all offer compact design for a 4x8
table.
I know that there is a learning curve from software and cutting technics (flow, order, tooling, holding parts), but as hobbyist I do not see any issue with that.
Thanks for all feedback,
Bill
|
Hi Jim,
¡°Drift is important for great off-tkoihe-saw results because excess drift will hold up the blade which then takes little jumps and makes a rough cut.¡±
Few months ago, I asked here how to get rough sawn markings on my band saw for a project. Is that what ¡°off-tkoihe-saw results¡± look like? Nothing shows up when I searched so any info you can share be appreciated.
Imran
|
I have an FB510 and have been able to adjust the table for drift.? I also have a shopmade resaw fence which can be tweaked via shims to fine tune for drift. I don't use the t slot so that is not a consideration for me.
?Drift is important for great off-tkoihe-saw results because excess drift will hold up the blade which then takes little jumps and makes a rough cut.??
It is true that moving the FB table is awkward and hard to finetune so I don't do it very?often.? If it is close, easier to shim the fence.
|
Re: Videos on the use of the T-12 Shaper - preset for adjustable groover
Thank you! I have a new T27 Martin shaper and this was very helpful! Keep the videos coming!
Tom Morris?
Wichita, KS
|
Videos on the use of the T-12 Shaper - preset for adjustable groover
Scott Slater indicated to me that it would be nice if there were how-to videos on the use of the Martin shapers. I indicated to Scott that I would be happy to help with that, as that would allow me to better learn (with Scott's help) how to use my equipment properly and efficiently.
This video is a "rough draft" of what I am trying to accomplish. ?They are certainly not as nice overall as the videos of David Best and David Zaret and Steve (Extreme Woodworker), but I do not think there are any videos out there showing how to do pre-sets for adjustable groovers on Martin Shapers. ?I have already identified things that can be improved with better lighting and editing etc. ?Subsequent videos will be way shorter in length.
Any suggestions, let me know. ?For me, I am not interested in being a "Youtuber" for profit, and do not even want my name associated with my videos on Youtube. ?At some point, I may host them elsewhere and/or disable comments. ?Mostly interested in learning more and helping others.
|
Ditto the Snodgrass video. I followed his instructions and have gotten very accurate resaw thicknesses. Snodgrass claims the fence can be out by 1/4¡± and still cut straight. I¡¯m not sure about that but Michael Fortune¡¯s point about the fence being parallel to the t-slot makes sense for the reason of using the slot for auxiliary jigs.
Craig,
????? Looks like you have a great saw. I would get a 1" carbide tipped blade like the Woodmaster CT by Lenox and put plenty of tension on it. They are expensive, but will last easily 10 times longer than steel blades. I would try different ways to adjust the blade as to how it rides on the wheel. Don't worry about not being able to move your table in relation to the saw. Also, adjust your guides as per the Snodgrass videos. I think you will not have any more drift problems. And if you really get into resawing, consider building a taller fence and something to keep pressure on the stock to keep it tight against the fence as you saw. I used to hate resawing, but since doing all the above to my saw, I really enjoy it now.
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Re: replacing a sliding table saw with a CNC router
Lot of great feedbacks,
I think I start to grasp the limitation about the stock thickness and alignment. For my use case, I believe this is manageable with a small table saw on a side and something like pin (Michael's feedback)?or??with vacuum for alignment.
I like the "x rated" video, but it is gonna stay in the video as i am not an actor :).
I will continue to look at both options until I need to make a decision.
On the brands, all the ones I listed are hobby/small shop or middle of the road type. They seems to all have cost cutting somewhere compare to the heavy duty one, but not on on the same components such WInCNC vs industrial controller or single screw for Y axis vs two screws or manual zone vs automatic zone. If anyone has knowledge on those brands that would be great. I parsed internet and it looks like a GM vs Ford situation except for DMS patriot line for which there is really nothing to find about. From my viewpoint, as long as the company support the product after sales and there is no big design no-no, I am not worried.
Thanks,
Bill
|
Re: Not felder (directly)
If you have a CNC, and know strategy for gluing up laminations for arch, it's pretty straightforward to produce arched casing.? Here's a small moulding detail I produced from flat stock, if that's the scale of moulding you'll apply to boxing at the arch. ?
Also, WH/Shop fox moulder with proper guides can get things done, though not as sophisticated as that machine appears to be.?
Curved work is like brain surgery vs removing a splinter.?
Jeff
On Sun, May 23, 2021 at 11:48 AM Mike S < Mike@...> wrote: Anyone have experience with radius moulding?? I¡¯ve got quite a big trim job coming up boxing columns and arches with stain grade walnut (second phase.? Painters just finished with the chair rail/panels I did).? I¡¯ve talked to my local millwork shop and wasn¡¯t left thinking that its going to be successful to job it out.? Lots of YouTube out there with Williams Hussey users but I¡¯ve wondered about the Mikron machine (). Very niche I know but I really want to control quality on this (a dozen arches of the same size and one much bigger).? Still working on design but expect significant detail.? One of these situations where I really don¡¯t know what I don¡¯t know...? Thanks.
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Re: replacing a sliding table saw with a CNC router
Exactly, these things are fun to drool over, but out of reach for 99% of us. I almost went pod and rail machine because they can be pretty cheap, but most of them needed 440V or way more amperage than I can get here at home. They also tend to be a lot longer in physical size compare to their length of cut, an 8¡¯ machine might be 12-13¡¯ long.
I lost so much shop space with my relatively compact 4x8 machine that I can¡¯t imagine anything bigger.
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On May 23, 2021, at 10:48 AM, Michael Garrison Stuber < mtgstuber@...> wrote:
Fascinating video Brian.? I really liked the plunge cut chain-saw
head for mortises.? If I wanted to make a couple hundred thousands
of something and I had the necessary capital, this would be a lot
of fun.
On 5/23/2021 10:16 AM, Brian Lamb
wrote:
For an idea of what¡¯s out there in aggregate heads, watch this
video:??
The problem here is the machines stout enough to
handle them are usually pricey, like over $100k. They are either
Cat40 spindles or HSK63, so big in hp too. And don¡¯t forget,
each aggregate head could easily run $4000 to $10,00 in cost.
Ones where you see the head rotate, to saw say in the X and Y
directions, you have to have a C axis built into the spindle.
None of these things are usually found in a 4x8
machine sized for the home shop. Now, can you edge joint large
slabs with an end mill, sure, not a problem, and do tenons and
mortises, most likely if you have enough Z travel. Ripping
boards, not so much if they get very thick. I don¡¯t like to cut
with smaller than a 1/4¡± bit to go through 3/4¡±, for 8/4 I would
be looking at 1/2¡±, maybe 3/8¡± if you run slow and multiple
depths. That¡¯s a lot of wasted material and time to just cut
something.
Facing slabs or glue ups is easy, not as fast as a
planer or drum sander, and you still have to figure out how to
hold it.
On May 23, 2021, at 9:30 AM, Bill James via
< xxrb2010@...>
wrote:
Thanks for all the feedback,
I do get than for most of you this is not a replacement,
but for my use case I am still no convinced. For examples,
I do not cut anything taller than 8/4. I have done cross
cut on 4x4 or 4x6, but this can be done on a miter saw. I
do not have a shaper, and do everything on my table saw
and jointer/planer. I plan to keep my jointer/planer and
miter saw.
I do get that thin rip (1/8") or face frame stock are too
thin for a CNC. As I do those kind of rip cuts, I can live
with a small traditional table saw along a wall for that.
Then I am left with bigger hardwood stocks out of the
jointer/planer for glue ups or others that I normally cut
to final size on my table saw. First, I guess I can get
final size on the planer.
However, can you rip and cross cut 8/4, 4/4 hardwood with
a cutter on a CNC as well as do joinery like dado, rabbet
on those same 8/4, 4/4? Let's assume lumbers have been
jointed and planed and are big enough to work either with
a modest vacuum such as hurricane type or a small rotary
vane vacuum pump for pods table? Like 4 inches wide at
least and a couple of feet long, I guess?
What about aggregates? Brian mentioned them and I am
wondering what are those aggregates used for beside
joinery on the side (drilling) and bevel cut? Are they
adding anything for hardwood cutting?
I have not yet a shaper, but I am wondering which kind of
shaper tasks a modern CNC with vacuum as mentioned above
can do without crazy jigs? I see stock longer than 8 ft
not feasible on a CNC, but I do not know enough about CNC
and shaper to know anything here.
Thanks
Bill
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
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Anyone have experience with radius moulding? ?I¡¯ve got quite a big trim job coming up boxing columns and arches with stain grade walnut (second phase. ?Painters just finished with the chair rail/panels I did). ?I¡¯ve talked to my local millwork shop and wasn¡¯t left thinking that its going to be successful to job it out. ?Lots of YouTube out there with Williams Hussey users but I¡¯ve wondered about the Mikron machine (). Very niche I know but I really want to control quality on this (a dozen arches of the same size and one much bigger). ?Still working on design but expect significant detail. ?One of these situations where I really don¡¯t know what I don¡¯t know... ?Thanks.
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David Luckensmeyer
Joe Jensen
Tom Gensmer
imran
Jim Fleming
Kevin Wells
