|
|
Re: Selling my Hammer equip?
Thank you for the link. Have been previously told that it¡¯s worth more than I paid for it. Still haven¡¯t heard back from Jesse, maybe he¡¯s not with them anymore...
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On May 19, 2021, at 8:53 PM, scottgrossman via groups.io <scottgrossman@...> wrote:
?You will sell the A3-31 in a heartbeat. I sold mine to a FOGger . /g/felderownersgroup/message/103077But you can also list in Craigslist. You will get a LOT of serious inquiries.? Felder will give you a quote for it, but they will also tell you that you'll do better selling it yourself. Their quote is a good baseline. If you look at my listing, I clearly sold too low as it was gone in two days, with one day just sorting through all the offers.
|
Re: Belt size request for 2017 F700Z
I believe metric belt pj559 cross references to us 220j6.??
|
Re: Belt size request for 2017 F700Z
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
Re: Belt size request for 2017 F700Z
Good morning Joe!?
I just checked the shaper unit on my 2020 KF700S, and found the following:
-- Motor package is 7.5hp 3P 60Hz
-- 1-1/4" spindle
-- belt drive is marked as "Rippenband 9 PJ 559"
-- Belt is listed as part # 12.0.264
The parts break down lists the belt as #s "9" and "5" (50hz are "8" and "4"). The info above is the "9" entry, here is the "5" info: Fr-Motorriemenscheibe 60Hz, part # 423-007-056
My parts diagram is dated 10/2013
I can scan and send you the parts diagram if that's helpful?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
If you think Felder parts are expensive !
I've needed a few parts for the Tannewitz PH bandsaw I'm restoring.? The good news is Tannewitz still has all parts.? The bad news are the prices.? Here are the parts and prices.? Tannewitz charges at least $30 shipping even for small packages.
?- Throat plate, aluminum disk about 3" diameter $36
?- 3/4" diameter steel shaft 6" long with a groove in it $78.? I could have someone make one but probably not for $78 one off.
?- Brake pedal, cast iron, small, $170
I also recently acquired a 32" Northfield bandsaw.? The through plate for that one was $32.? It sits in a rough casting and took 45 mins to custom fit it and to tap the two holes.? Northfield charges $30 in shipping too.
I think I would be happier if they jacked up the prices for the parts and charged a fair price for shipping.? I sell a ton on ebay and it takes me a couple minutes to pack and label for shipping.? None of those packages would have cost more than $10 at retail to ship.
But as I said, at least parts for the 1967 Tannewitz and the 1972 Northfield are available.
|
Belt size request for 2017 F700Z
The used 2017 F700Z I bought at auction did not ship with a belt for the 1 1/4" spindle.? The belt for my 2010 Variable speed KF700SP does not fit.? Does anyone know the belt size so I can get one quickly and hopefully without $30 of shipping?
|
Re: Selling my Hammer equip?
You will sell the A3-31 in a heartbeat. I sold mine to a FOGger . /g/felderownersgroup/message/103077But you can also list in Craigslist. You will get a LOT of serious inquiries.? Felder will give you a quote for it, but they will also tell you that you'll do better selling it yourself. Their quote is a good baseline. If you look at my listing, I clearly sold too low as it was gone in two days, with one day just sorting through all the offers.
|
Hi all,
I have a call into my rep at Felder, but wanted to ask here as well.
I have a 12¡± A3-31 Hammer Jointer/Planer and a Hammer N4400 17¡± amongst my woodworking tools that I¡¯m planning to sell soon. Bought New in 2013 if I recall correctly. Lovingly used lightly; the A3/31 still has the original cutting blades which are still sharp - used mostly on curly maple, walnut and a few other exotics. Have new upgraded blades ready to insert as well.
Bandsaw has about same amount of use. And multiple blades for a variety of use.
Don¡¯t need to sell, but would like to to start fresh in a new shop in a year or two. Doesn¡¯t make sense to store them, when I know good machines are sparse in availability right now. Would rather see them being put to use by someone more productive.
Upgraded both machines to accept the Hammer table extensions (have long and short). Professionally wired by a master electrician.
Best way to sell and ideas on price? I live in VA, USA if it matters.
Cheers,
Kelcey
|
Re: Shaper with CopeCrafter and outboard fence and pressure jaws to make panels
This guy spent $150 to build the jig like?CopeCrafter.
James
On Wed, May 19, 2021 at 12:12 AM joelgelman via <joelgelman= [email protected]> wrote: Thanks.? I will be emailing David Best, and hope he will sell me a swing down mount for the pressure jaws along with a micro adjust for the thickness stop.? Great videos!
?enclosed a picture of my Wegoma feeder along with a picture of the wheels.? I know I can remove 4 of the wheels ?and replace them with bearings to decrease the total wheel width, but I still do not understand why I would want to take the time to do that over making and always using the thickness stop accessory Fence seen in David Zaret's video.
As for the slider with Mac Clamps vs CounterMax, yes, I think I would go with the heavy slider and pneumatic clamps between the 2 choices.? I have used that setup not long ago.? However, I remain interested in the CopeCrafter as the only feedback I have received by someone who has used both (and is able to compare) is that the CopeCrafter was preferred because of ease of setup and no downsides.? If anyone who has actually used the CopeCrafter found it lacking, I would be interested to know.
Thanks again!
|
When My planer is having feed issues? It is the Table.
I have to clean the pitch and resin off it using any cleaner
Mineral Spirits works.? You could use 409? or anything really
Then I apply a wax.? I've come? to prefer the?? carnuba???
carrying wax? liquid?? from? Meguire's -? with no silicone.? But
plain old johnson's paste wax? works fine
On 5/18/21 6:30 PM, Mike S wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I searched topics but didn¡¯t find what I was looking for. ?New to
me J/P wasn¡¯t self feeding (planer). ?Not too much figuring to
decide there¡¯s too much pressure from the plate (ascertained by
removing it). ?It¡¯s a complex fold of sheet metal so instinct says
to relieve some of its bend. ?Better judgement says pause and ask
the community. ?For what its worth, very very little adjustment in
the bolts holding it in place. ?Thoughts? ?Thanks. ?
|
Re: Shaper with CopeCrafter and outboard fence and pressure jaws to make panels
Hi Joel:
Thanks for your reply. I would personally much rather use aluminium extrusion rather than the timber that David Z. has used. This is certainly what I¡¯ve done, following many others. But each to their own.
This is not a contrasting proposition as you appear to think. There are two reasons why I use the narrow wheels, even with the thickness stop modification:
1. ?Sometimes the material is both thin (in terms of thickness) and narrow (in terms of width). So thin and narrow that even David Z's modification would not suffice. In such circumstances there is need to use a single set of narrow feeder wheels. Maybe you will never suffer this scenario as you rarely if ever machine narrow/thin stock. It doesn¡¯t happen very often for me.
2. There have been instances where I have benefited from removing the two inner, central wheels, the ones which are closest to the cutter, so that the feeder partially straddles the cutter head.
Cheers, Lucky
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks. ?I will be emailing David Best, and hope he will sell me a swing down mount for the pressure jaws along with a micro adjust for the thickness stop. ?Great videos!
?enclosed a picture of my Wegoma feeder along with a picture of the wheels. ?I know I can remove 4 of the wheels ?and replace them with bearings to decrease the total wheel width, but I still do not understand why I would want to take the time to do that over making and always using the thickness stop accessory Fence seen in David Zaret's video.
As for the slider with Mac Clamps vs CounterMax, yes, I think I would go with the heavy slider and pneumatic clamps between the 2 choices. ?I have used that setup not long ago. ?However, I remain interested in the CopeCrafter as the only feedback I have received by someone who has used both (and is able to compare) is that the CopeCrafter was preferred because of ease of setup and no downsides. ?If anyone who has actually used the CopeCrafter found it lacking, I would be interested to know.
Thanks again!
<Unknown.jpeg><Unknown-1.jpeg>
|
Re: Shaper with CopeCrafter and outboard fence and pressure jaws to make panels
Thanks. ?I will be emailing David Best, and hope he will sell me a swing down mount for the pressure jaws along with a micro adjust for the thickness stop. ?Great videos!
?enclosed a picture of my Wegoma feeder along with a picture of the wheels. ?I know I can remove 4 of the wheels ?and replace them with bearings to decrease the total wheel width, but I still do not understand why I would want to take the time to do that over making and always using the thickness stop accessory Fence seen in David Zaret's video.
As for the slider with Mac Clamps vs CounterMax, yes, I think I would go with the heavy slider and pneumatic clamps between the 2 choices. ?I have used that setup not long ago. ?However, I remain interested in the CopeCrafter as the only feedback I have received by someone who has used both (and is able to compare) is that the CopeCrafter was preferred because of ease of setup and no downsides. ?If anyone who has actually used the CopeCrafter found it lacking, I would be interested to know.
Thanks again!
|
Hi Mike , not tape to lift it , to deaden the squeal some. This is where i put the tape¡?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On May 18, 2021, at 7:55 PM, Mike S <Mike@...> wrote:
? Thanks Mark.? Thought it was for pressure after the infeed roller.? I like the idea of tape to lift it ever so slightly.? Too many folds to bend it evenly (and that doesn¡¯t seem right anyway). It is not a pressure plate, it is a chip deflector and that is it¡¯s only purpose. Do NOT push it down , obviously you wouldn¡¯t do that if you wanted it up but if you find that you bent it up too far you might find yourself pushing it back down.?
The reason is, mine was played with and bent to far down or something else, (not by me¡) wood caught it on the way in and pushed it into the cutter head destroying the machine to the point it had to be replaced¡
With that said i think my situation is an extreme case as they were trying to modify the shape slightly. A?slight even lift on it will reduce the squeal , another thing to try is add some Gorilla tape on the inside )behind front as you are looking at it). This will reduce it, did on mine anyways. I would call Felder tech support and have them suggest bending it up before attempting that why you might be covered if anything happens¡
The spec for the distance from the cutter head (vertical) is in your doc¡¯s so you could double check that as well.
On May 18, 2021, at 6:30 PM, Mike S <Mike@...> wrote:
?I searched topics but didn¡¯t find what I was looking for.? New to me J/P wasn¡¯t self feeding (planer).? Not too much figuring to decide there¡¯s too much pressure from the plate (ascertained by removing it).? It¡¯s a complex fold of sheet metal so instinct says to relieve some of its bend.? Better judgement says pause and ask the community.? For what its worth, very very little adjustment in the bolts holding it in place.? Thoughts?? Thanks. ?
|
Re: Finger Pulls on Drawer fronts
OK The search for a Capable Process has been pursued, using comments from the FOG Success and repeatability has been achieved The template was modified with a 30 mm overlap from the edge to allow a quick alignment and therefore a faster, more consistent feed rate Two routers used, bothe with template followers set so the one template could be used without changing. The first run was a straight cut bit to hog as much as possible, the second with a finger pull bit to quickly remove the final waste All good, still talking to my daughter BTW, it was recycled hardwood, 60 yrs old from a house I demo'd, it was building euc, therefore mixed south coast eucs, not easily identified. BTW2 Couldnt?see a difference with router speed, bear in mind the bits were 12mm and about 22mm ie small BTW3 Derek- I bought a plane from you many yrs ago- prob E?Bay Regards to all Tnx Bob
|
Re: Shaper with CopeCrafter and outboard fence and pressure jaws to make panels
Hi Joel:
For endgrain work, I use the Aigner Contermax for very small furniture parts only. Larger cuts call for the tenon plate, short crosscut fence, and Mac¡¯s clamps, as per David B¡¯s style. That works well for me although I love the look of the Copecrafter product.
I¡¯m writing particularly about your comments on the profile aspect of the joint. I assume you have the Aigner thickness stop? And do you have David B¡¯s micro-adjustment mod? If not, send him lots of money and wine and ask him to make you one! It is worth whatever he asks for it.
I now use the modified Aigner thickness stop as much as possible. It is easier to set up and calibrate, and provides much more reliable results. I have found that the Comatic ¡°narrow¡± wheels are an important accessory for narrower stock profiling. Indeed, the extra addition of an aluminium rail helps with any clearance issues if the stock is thin as well.
I use the Aigner pressure jaws as often as possible as I find it gives me more reliable results compared to just using the feeder alone. Maybe I need more practice with my feeder, but I like the security of added pressure when using the back fence.
David also makes a modification for the pressure jaws so that it fits into the Aigner Centrex. This allows for the jaws to be swung down for use and takes very little time to adjust. The only times I don¡¯t use the jaws with the back fence is for super narrow stock (say 25mm), where the jaws get in the way of the feeder. If you have a Centrex, ask David for that mod too, assuming he is still offering that service.
Your profile and counter-profile look is cool. Good luck.
Warm regards,
Lucky
Dr David Luckensmeyer
?
? M: 0413 013 115
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
[Edited Message Follows]
I am working on dialing in a "go to" custom profile for the rails and stiles of panels. ?I found that in a cutterhead from Great Lakes with custom knives (see pictures). ?Everything else I have is from Rangate, but I was looking for a custom profile. ?One way to use the shaper for that is shown in this very nice video from David Zaret, and that was referenced in a prior post. For the cope cuts, David uses a sliding table bolted to the shaper along with some very nice mac clamps. ?I have a similar setup but not with the 2 clamp setup at this time (I have 1 that can press down). ?I also have the Aigner basic coping sled that is in the attached picture. I was talking to David today, and he feel the Aigner sled can be a bit inaccurate with some shift as you turn the knob to press the spring clamp to the wood, and the heavy sliding table can be pain to move and setup. ?Since he made the video, he started to pretty much exclusively use something called the CopeCrafter CC-10.? I looked up "copecrafter" here on this forum and could not see it mentioned. ?Curious if anyone has experience with this. For the stick cuts, the plan is to use the Aigner outboard fence. ?One option would be to remove one set of the 4 wheels on the feeder to replace them with spacers so the wheel profile is not so wide and the feeder will fit. ?However, David uses an accessory fence that provides the clearance to allow the feeder to be used without dealing with the wheels. ?That seems easier to me. On thing I noticed is that he does not use the pressure jaws. ?David did not really find them of value for these particular cuts. ?It is my understanding that the very innovative David Best may have come up with an option better than the now discontinued Aigner product. ?I was curious what you all think of what would be the best option for this particular application. ?Obviously not dealing with jaws is the easiest and fastest way as long as there is no compromise in safety and/or accuracy.
<Easy Cope.jpeg><Great Lkes.jpeg><Panel.jpeg><Profile.jpeg><Stiles.jpeg><Jaws.jpeg>
|
Thanks Mark.? Thought it was for pressure after the infeed roller.? I like the idea of tape to lift it ever so slightly.? Too many folds to bend it evenly (and that doesn¡¯t seem right anyway).
It is not a pressure plate, it is a chip deflector and that is it¡¯s only purpose. Do NOT push it down , obviously you wouldn¡¯t do that if you wanted it up but if you find that you bent it up too far you might find yourself pushing it back down.?
The reason is, mine was played with and bent to far down or something else, (not by me¡) wood caught it on the way in and pushed it into the cutter head destroying the machine to the point it had to be replaced¡
With that said i think my situation is an extreme case as they were trying to modify the shape slightly. A?slight even lift on it will reduce the squeal , another thing to try is add some Gorilla tape on the inside )behind front as you are looking at it). This will reduce it, did on mine anyways. I would call Felder tech support and have them suggest bending it up before attempting that why you might be covered if anything happens¡
The spec for the distance from the cutter head (vertical) is in your doc¡¯s so you could double check that as well.
On May 18, 2021, at 6:30 PM, Mike S <Mike@...> wrote:
?I searched topics but didn¡¯t find what I was looking for.? New to me J/P wasn¡¯t self feeding (planer).? Not too much figuring to decide there¡¯s too much pressure from the plate (ascertained by removing it).? It¡¯s a complex fold of sheet metal so instinct says to relieve some of its bend.? Better judgement says pause and ask the community.? For what its worth, very very little adjustment in the bolts holding it in place.? Thoughts?? Thanks. ?
|
Re: Shaper with CopeCrafter and outboard fence and pressure jaws to make panels
I use the Aigner CounterMax (coping sled) if I¡¯m making a single door. ?I have experienced some inconsistent registration using the Aigner CounterMax at times, but it¡¯s pretty rare. ?It helps if the backer board is softwood (fir or pine) which helps eliminate clamp-slip.
When making several doors, this is the setup I use for cope cutting, employing three of Mac¡¯s clamps (including his new horizontal add-on) and tenoning plate on the X-Roll sliding table:
That¡¯s a lot to set up, which is why I generally make extra stile and rail parts in case one gets mangled in the workflow after the cope cuts. ?I did a whole series of videos on the process I use for frame & panel door work on the shaper that includes recovering from a post-cope-cut snipe that destroyed one of the rails. ?For that recovery I use the Aigner CounterMax in lieu of recreating the above setup. ?You can view the series here: ?
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
[Edited Message Follows]
I am working on dialing in a "go to" custom profile for the rails and stiles of panels. ?I found that in a cutterhead from Great Lakes with custom knives (see pictures). ?Everything else I have is from Rangate, but I was looking for a custom profile. ?One way to use the shaper for that is shown in this very nice video from David Zaret, and that was referenced in a prior post. For the cope cuts, David uses a sliding table bolted to the shaper along with some very nice mac clamps. ?I have a similar setup but not with the 2 clamp setup at this time (I have 1 that can press down). ?I also have the Aigner basic coping sled that is in the attached picture. I was talking to David today, and he feel the Aigner sled can be a bit inaccurate with some shift as you turn the knob to press the spring clamp to the wood, and the heavy sliding table can be pain to move and setup. ?Since he made the video, he started to pretty much exclusively use something called the CopeCrafter CC-10.? I looked up "copecrafter" here on this forum and could not see it mentioned. ?Curious if anyone has experience with this. For the stick cuts, the plan is to use the Aigner outboard fence. ?One option would be to remove one set of the 4 wheels on the feeder to replace them with spacers so the wheel profile is not so wide and the feeder will fit. ?However, David uses an accessory fence that provides the clearance to allow the feeder to be used without dealing with the wheels. ?That seems easier to me. On thing I noticed is that he does not use the pressure jaws. ?David did not really find them of value for these particular cuts. ?It is my understanding that the very innovative David Best may have come up with an option better than the now discontinued Aigner product. ?I was curious what you all think of what would be the best option for this particular application. ?Obviously not dealing with jaws is the easiest and fastest way as long as there is no compromise in safety and/or accuracy.
<Easy Cope.jpeg><Great Lkes.jpeg><Panel.jpeg><Profile.jpeg><Stiles.jpeg><Jaws.jpeg>
|
It is not a pressure plate, it is a chip deflector and that is it¡¯s only purpose. Do NOT push it down , obviously you wouldn¡¯t do that if you wanted it up but if you find that you bent it up too far you might find yourself pushing it back down.?
The reason is, mine was played with and bent to far down or something else, (not by me¡) wood caught it on the way in and pushed it into the cutter head destroying the machine to the point it had to be replaced¡
With that said i think my situation is an extreme case as they were trying to modify the shape slightly. A?slight even lift on it will reduce the squeal , another thing to try is add some Gorilla tape on the inside )behind front as you are looking at it). This will reduce it, did on mine anyways. I would call Felder tech support and have them suggest bending it up before attempting that why you might be covered if anything happens¡
The spec for the distance from the cutter head (vertical) is in your doc¡¯s so you could double check that as well.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On May 18, 2021, at 6:30 PM, Mike S <Mike@...> wrote:
?I searched topics but didn¡¯t find what I was looking for. ?New to me J/P wasn¡¯t self feeding (planer). ?Not too much figuring to decide there¡¯s too much pressure from the plate (ascertained by removing it). ?It¡¯s a complex fold of sheet metal so instinct says to relieve some of its bend. ?Better judgement says pause and ask the community. ?For what its worth, very very little adjustment in the bolts holding it in place. ?Thoughts? ?Thanks. ?
|
I searched topics but didn¡¯t find what I was looking for. ?New to me J/P wasn¡¯t self feeding (planer). ?Not too much figuring to decide there¡¯s too much pressure from the plate (ascertained by removing it). ?It¡¯s a complex fold of sheet metal so instinct says to relieve some of its bend. ?Better judgement says pause and ask the community. ?For what its worth, very very little adjustment in the bolts holding it in place. ?Thoughts? ?Thanks. ?
|
Joe Jensen
Tom Gensmer
David Luckensmeyer
David P. Best