Re: Used KF700 year 200 price check
Hi Steve,
Attached shows what the plastic dust collector "basket" should look like. I
just posted measured currents of motors including 5.5KW and this might help
you in determining your head room.
The only other thing I would say is that I had the KF700 with 78" slider for
17 yrs and it served me fine as I was working and therefore a part time
user. I cut ply with circular or track saw when needed. Once retired I
wanted a dedicated saw, which I have now and KF is a dedicated shaper.
Not sure if that trajectory would work for you. $3500 is not bad even for a
shaper and you may get it for less due to missing items. For use as a
shaper, you have a much better chance of aligning the short slider to near
cast iron height than a longer slider.
Anecdotally, I think 9' (110") slider are more common than 8'. You may have
better luck finding that. Also, clamps (especially pneumatic) are
wonderfully amazing on sliders. Manu of us use two for long rips or ply, so
9' is minimum for that scenario.
Imran
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-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] On Behalf Of Stephen Zielke Sent: Friday, March 05, 2021 10:43 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [FOG] Used KF700 year 200 price check Thanks Patrick & Imran for your thoughts. I was excited to see this saw come up in the Seattle market local to me, but then found it to be so-so in person. It's missing an eccentric clamp, table saw blade guard, and anything for the shaper beyond a fence: no hold downs or other safety feature items, which I would have thought an original shaper user would have thought necessary (even my Rojek has a bundle of different helpers for the shaper). The current owner only used it as a saw. It seems like the under the table shaper dust collector "basket" is half broken, unless it's normal that half the sphere is missing. Only the half connected to the dust tube leading to the exterior is there, so a lot of chips would fall down onto the spindle/belt, that seems wrong. Although the exterior of the body says it can take a high speed spindle, the E-shop part numbers suggest only more modern ones are stocked. I will have to contact my Felder salesperson. It's a pretty expensive part, I think I would probably just work a router table into an outfeed table extension (to utilize the slider) and keep the shaper for shaper sized cutters. That's what I did with the Rojek. The outrigger table is all fine and present. Just no eccentric hold down. The 3 phase is the problem - due to limited power at my subpanel, I talked to an electrician today. He advised me I should turn off my heat when using the saw and RPC, or I might blow the main under initial motor loading. No other tool in the shop exceeds 4.8hp (3.5KW) single phase, and most are less, so up until now my panel was always ok. It's 80' of difficult conduit pull, mostly underground, so I won't be upgrading. I know because I did it all myself when I was younger and more energetic. I agree about the 80".I was really searching for 98", to just squeak by with sheet goods. I'm already annoyed on enough occasions with the limits of my 5' saw, and 80" isn't much better. 10' is really common as a used saw, even 5' is somewhat common on the used saw-shaper or 5-in-1 market. But 8' seems really rare. I think this length issue (along with the RPC) will keep me looking for a used 8' while I save for another year or so to purchase new. My used budget is $5-6k at present, and I know new is $8-12k, depending on make and manuf. So I'm halfway to new. Great site (and so many more users than the tiny Minimax iogroups!). Steve
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I thought this might help folks make an informed decision when sizing a phase converter, especially when the single phase power available in the shop is limited.
Actual motor currents are usually much less than what is listed on the machine/motor label, which is typically FLA (Fully Loaded Amps). While it is important to be aware of the in-rush current at motor startup, keep in mind that it only lasts for less than 10mS for a motor running on 60 Hz power. This can be 20x the normal current and it depends upon how hard it is to turn a stationary rotor (this is the locked rotor current spec of the motor). A good example is KF700 below. Shaper with tooling has nearly twice the in-rush vs no tooling.
For sake of completeness, after in-rush current there is still higher than normal current until motor comes up to full speed. These currents are handled by the momentary overload current rating of my 10 HP DPC-A10 (circa 2011) Phase Perfect. This ratings is 150A for 4 seconds and should be sufficient for most 10HP motors. In my user manual 20HP model is rated for 280A and 30HP model for 400A.
You should always consult with the supplier of your converter but in general the in-rush current should be used to check the momentary overload protection of the converter and any fusing needs. Use FLA for sizing the converter and remember that it is very unlikely to experience that current in normal use. This is why I took the measurements. Be aware that in extreme situations compromises are possible.
All measurements made with motor idling. I made these measurements with a inexpensive clamp meter. I noted maximum current that I saw. Since this is not a true RMS meter a fudge factor of 10% should be sufficient to provide worst case current.
KF700 Machine Label. Measured shaper 3KW motor.
Measured Starting 18A. Idling 2.8A. I had previously measured current with a scope on this machine and a peak current of 4A matches the RMS reading I took.
3/20/21 Update. Measured shaper current with Felder 04-2-098 rebate head installed on 30mm spindle. This is a good size steel body cutter at 150mm dia & 51mm cutting height.
Measured Starting 38A. Idling 3.0A.
K975 Machine Label. Measured saw motor (5.5KW) alone and Saw & Scoring (1.1KW) motors together.
Measured Starting 24A. Saw idling 4A. Saw & Scorer idling 5.7A.
Format4 Dual51 Machine Label. 7.35KW motor.
Measured Starting 38A. Idling 6.2A. I had previously measured current with a scope on this machine and a peak current of 10A equates to 7A RMS. So I would suggest using 7A.
Hope this is helpful.
Imran
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Router Spindle Compatibility with 240 Hood
Guys just piddling around in shop and it occurred to me to check how far back my fence plates go. When I mount the hood in the rear set of holes, the fence plates actually sits behind the centerline of the spindle.
I thought a modification to the micro adjust was required for this. So is it possible that all KF700 are not same?
I know that Aigner fence plates are thicker and from posts definitely sit proud of the spindle center line but I am pretty sure I read here that even felder stock fence plates were also an issue.
It would be good to clarify this for people considering to buy a KF or ones with KF and considering to buy a router spindle.
Imran
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Re: Adding fence to bandsaw?
Thanks Tom for the pics. Looks like I can fit the pressure module and extension table if I switch from Aigner to Felder rails.
?
Here is a pic showing ext. table not fitting on Aigner rail.
?
?
The rail is just not wide enough. Maybe Aigner makes them wider and I picked the wrong one. Here is same table on felder rail.
?
?
and Aigner pressure module on the same felder rail
?
?
Imran
On Mar 6, 2021, at 12:00 PM, tom@... wrote:
Hi Joe!? I added the Felder mounting rails to my little Laguna 14" saw and have been really happy with the utility they've added to the machine.?
<IMG_1108.jpeg>
<IMG_1107.jpeg>
<IMG_1109.jpeg>
The apron on the cast iron top wasn't tall enough to mount the Felder bars in the intended orientation (fasteners in the lower position). Instead, I just bought some stainless spacers on McMaster Carr (smaller OD than the Felder spacers), which give me the clearance necessary for the Felder tables to hook on the rail without interference from the spacers.? On my Laguna, the blade exits the table out the side, so I've taken to just leaving out the one fastener to ease swapping blades. The photos above are rather old, and don't reflect the smaller OD spacers and removal of the near-side bolt.? For the in-feed side, I have the Aigner table extension with the round bar adapter and that works fine with my Laguna Driftmaster fence. The Driftmaster is frankly overkill on my saw, so I have the parts on order from Felder for their band saw fence assembly. Once they arrive I'll add a Felder bar to the in-feed side and likely sell the driftmaster, or reserve it for when I eventually add a larger saw.? Here's the parts breakdown for the Felder band saw fence assembly:?
<Mail Attachment.png>
-- Tom Gensmer Heritage Home Renewals, LLC Minneapolis, MN
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Re: Adding fence to bandsaw?
Hi Joe!? I added the Felder mounting rails to my little Laguna 14" saw and have been really happy with the utility they've added to the machine.?    The apron on the cast iron top wasn't tall enough to mount the Felder bars in the intended orientation (fasteners in the lower position). Instead, I just bought some stainless spacers on McMaster Carr (smaller OD than the Felder spacers), which give me the clearance necessary for the Felder tables to hook on the rail without interference from the spacers.? On my Laguna, the blade exits the table out the side, so I've taken to just leaving out the one fastener to ease swapping blades. The photos above are rather old, and don't reflect the smaller OD spacers and removal of the near-side bolt.? For the in-feed side, I have the Aigner table extension with the round bar adapter and that works fine with my Laguna Driftmaster fence. The Driftmaster is frankly overkill on my saw, so I have the parts on order from Felder for their band saw fence assembly. Once they arrive I'll add a Felder bar to the in-feed side and likely sell the driftmaster, or reserve it for when I eventually add a larger saw.? Here's the parts breakdown for the Felder band saw fence assembly:?  -- Tom Gensmer Heritage Home Renewals, LLC Minneapolis, MN
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Yea, was planning on getting better footage but the ops manager popped into the area, i mean of all places - the building is huge with hundreds of machines on top of each other and he happened come by this one...
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On Mar 6, 2021, at 11:36 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Thank for clarification Mark. It was hard to see what¡¯s going on ¡.. ? ? Hi Imran,? Wire edm is done submerged, the video shown is the cnc¡¯ing after the edm
On Mar 6, 2021, at 10:26 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Looking good. I have not seen wire EDM in person but read up some time ago and was under the impression that it is always done submerged. Apparently it can be done with just abundant fluid as well. ?Quick update for those that are interested on the k940s zci, chips are starting to ?! Should be complete next week... Interesting that he used one of our edm¡¯s to rough cut the blanks, guess he wanted to start with some super accurate blanks?, left some interesting accurately cut scraps...
Here is the scoring section being milled in the Hurco...
? So I decided I needed a zci for the new k940, thought I would get away without one but here I am... I reached out to David Best as I knew he had made one for the kappa. The k940 saw unit, top casting and 3 plastic segments appear to be the same however I have the LED lights so wasn¡¯t sure if David would be willing to modify his design and if it would be worth the time/cost to do so. After a few back and forth emails David decided to not take it on, a few key dimensions were slightly different and could require a few iterations to get it right which I agreed.? David was so kind in allowing me to use his drawings, however after I started to model it and compared it to my parts in hand it wasn¡¯t adding up so I had to abandon the drawings given and just start from scratch from my actual parts. So the first task was to model the LED section first as it is the most difficult to work out, then 3d print, check fit and make adjustments (done) After that 3d print all the parts to confirm (tomorrow) and finally have machined in aluminum (tbd) The other unknown was how was the LED installed, the only way to find out was to remove it which would obviously void the warranty but after studying the elect schematic and looking at the parts drawings I convinced myself that it was no big deal and easy to fix if I screwed up the LED strip.? So here are some progress pics... note, the 3d printed LED section is short due the the 3D printer bed not being long enough, a bolt hole is missing so it is not tight against the cast...
? Below is the auto score feature in action with the as delivered LED section?
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Re: Barn Door Hardware Recommendations
These pocket doors came up in discussions a while back
Dave Davies
I¡¯m a big fan of KN Crowder products.? Here is a link to there barn door systems: ?
You may or may not like the esthetics of the Crowder choices - they all hide the track and roller mechanisms. ?
If you prefer the more rustic and exposed mechanism hardware, I know several people who have been happy with the products sold by this outfit: ?
On Mar 6, 2021, at 4:47 AM, Patty & Steve Spear via < passpear@...> wrote:
Hi,
? ? ?My wife wants me to replace her pantry door with a barn door. She wants it painted so I was just going to make it out of 6/4 popular. She likes the soft close/open feature. Any suggestions on where to buy the hardware?? The big box stores carry some, but I am suspect of the quality. I am thinking it maybe worth spending more on the hardware as this door will be opened and closed many times a day. Thanks for your suggestions.?
Steve
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
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Thank for clarification Mark. It was hard to see what¡¯s going on ¡.. ?
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From: [email protected] On Behalf Of Mark Kessler Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2021 11:10 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [FOG] zci for k940 ? Hi Imran,? Wire edm is done submerged, the video shown is the cnc¡¯ing after the edm
On Mar 6, 2021, at 10:26 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Looking good. I have not seen wire EDM in person but read up some time ago and was under the impression that it is always done submerged. Apparently it can be done with just abundant fluid as well. ?Quick update for those that are interested on the k940s zci, chips are starting to ?! Should be complete next week... Interesting that he used one of our edm¡¯s to rough cut the blanks, guess he wanted to start with some super accurate blanks?, left some interesting accurately cut scraps...
Here is the scoring section being milled in the Hurco...
? So I decided I needed a zci for the new k940, thought I would get away without one but here I am... I reached out to David Best as I knew he had made one for the kappa. The k940 saw unit, top casting and 3 plastic segments appear to be the same however I have the LED lights so wasn¡¯t sure if David would be willing to modify his design and if it would be worth the time/cost to do so. After a few back and forth emails David decided to not take it on, a few key dimensions were slightly different and could require a few iterations to get it right which I agreed.? David was so kind in allowing me to use his drawings, however after I started to model it and compared it to my parts in hand it wasn¡¯t adding up so I had to abandon the drawings given and just start from scratch from my actual parts. So the first task was to model the LED section first as it is the most difficult to work out, then 3d print, check fit and make adjustments (done) After that 3d print all the parts to confirm (tomorrow) and finally have machined in aluminum (tbd) The other unknown was how was the LED installed, the only way to find out was to remove it which would obviously void the warranty but after studying the elect schematic and looking at the parts drawings I convinced myself that it was no big deal and easy to fix if I screwed up the LED strip.? So here are some progress pics... note, the 3d printed LED section is short due the the 3D printer bed not being long enough, a bolt hole is missing so it is not tight against the cast...
? Below is the auto score feature in action with the as delivered LED section?
|
Hi Imran,? Wire edm is done submerged, the video shown is the cnc¡¯ing after the edm
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On Mar 6, 2021, at 10:26 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Looking good. I have not seen wire EDM in person but read up some time ago and was under the impression that it is always done submerged. Apparently it can be done with just abundant fluid as well.
Imran?
On Mar 4, 2021, at 1:56 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? Quick update for those that are interested on the k940s zci, chips are starting to ?! Should be complete next week...
Interesting that he used one of our edm¡¯s to rough cut the blanks, guess he wanted to start with some super accurate blanks?, left some interesting accurately cut scraps...
Here is the scoring section being milled in the Hurco...
On Jan 19, 2021, at 11:26 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? So I decided I needed a zci for the new k940, thought I would get away without one but here I am... I reached out to David Best as I knew he had made one for the kappa. The k940 saw unit, top casting and 3 plastic segments appear to be the same however I have the LED lights so wasn¡¯t sure if David would be willing to modify his design and if it would be worth the time/cost to do so. After a few back and forth emails David decided to not take it on, a few key dimensions were slightly different and could require a few iterations to get it right which I agreed.?
David was so kind in allowing me to use his drawings, however after I started to model it and compared it to my parts in hand it wasn¡¯t adding up so I had to abandon the drawings given and just start from scratch from my actual parts.
So the first task was to model the LED section first as it is the most difficult to work out, then 3d print, check fit and make adjustments (done) After that 3d print all the parts to confirm (tomorrow) and finally have machined in aluminum (tbd)
The other unknown was how was the LED installed, the only way to find out was to remove it which would obviously void the warranty but after studying the elect schematic and looking at the parts drawings I convinced myself that it was no big deal and easy to fix if I screwed up the LED strip.?
So here are some progress pics... note, the 3d printed LED section is short due the the 3D printer bed not being long enough, a bolt hole is missing so it is not tight against the cast...
??
Below is the auto score feature in action with the as delivered LED section?
<image0.jpeg> <Video_1.mov> <image2.jpeg> <image0.png> <image1.png> <image2.png> <image3.jpeg> <image4.jpeg> <image5.jpeg> <image6.jpeg> <Video.MOV>
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Looking good. I have not seen wire EDM in person but read up some time ago and was under the impression that it is always done submerged. Apparently it can be done with just abundant fluid as well.
Imran?
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On Mar 4, 2021, at 1:56 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote: ? Quick update for those that are interested on the k940s zci, chips are starting to ?! Should be complete next week...
Interesting that he used one of our edm¡¯s to rough cut the blanks, guess he wanted to start with some super accurate blanks?, left some interesting accurately cut scraps...
Here is the scoring section being milled in the Hurco...
On Jan 19, 2021, at 11:26 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? So I decided I needed a zci for the new k940, thought I would get away without one but here I am... I reached out to David Best as I knew he had made one for the kappa. The k940 saw unit, top casting and 3 plastic segments appear to be the same however I have the LED lights so wasn¡¯t sure if David would be willing to modify his design and if it would be worth the time/cost to do so. After a few back and forth emails David decided to not take it on, a few key dimensions were slightly different and could require a few iterations to get it right which I agreed.?
David was so kind in allowing me to use his drawings, however after I started to model it and compared it to my parts in hand it wasn¡¯t adding up so I had to abandon the drawings given and just start from scratch from my actual parts.
So the first task was to model the LED section first as it is the most difficult to work out, then 3d print, check fit and make adjustments (done) After that 3d print all the parts to confirm (tomorrow) and finally have machined in aluminum (tbd)
The other unknown was how was the LED installed, the only way to find out was to remove it which would obviously void the warranty but after studying the elect schematic and looking at the parts drawings I convinced myself that it was no big deal and easy to fix if I screwed up the LED strip.?
So here are some progress pics... note, the 3d printed LED section is short due the the 3D printer bed not being long enough, a bolt hole is missing so it is not tight against the cast...
??
Below is the auto score feature in action with the as delivered LED section?
<image0.jpeg> <Video_1.mov> <image2.jpeg> <image0.png> <image1.png> <image2.png> <image3.jpeg> <image4.jpeg> <image5.jpeg> <image6.jpeg> <Video.MOV>
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I have the same sliding table on a K500 and you cannot if you plan to clamp on both ends. With clamp, the minium is 2800mm to cut 8 ft board,?if your clamp bases are not too big. According to many threads about it on this forum. The infeed end of this sliding table is an additional 12 inches or so that is useless from my point of view. Check the K940 layout in the file section and look for the design of the handle of the 2500 sliding table. Or look in their pdf catalogue page 57. Here is the picture: to cut to full length you need your wood to be on that additional aluminum extension. I hope I make it clear.  Bill
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I am thinking about trading up to a k700p with the 2500mm slider.? Is cutting a sheet of melamine which is 2460 long do able on the saw including the scoring blade.? I currently have a k3 winner which has been a great saw.
thanks
Roy
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Re: Used KF700 year 200 price check
Thanks Patrick & Imran for your thoughts. I was excited to see this saw come up in the Seattle market local to me, but then found it to be so-so in person.
It's missing an eccentric clamp, table saw blade guard, and anything for the shaper beyond a fence: no hold downs or other safety feature items, which I would have thought an original shaper user would have thought necessary (even my Rojek has a bundle of different helpers for the shaper). The current owner only used it as a saw. It seems like the under the table shaper dust collector "basket" is half broken, unless it's normal that half the sphere is missing. Only the half connected to the dust tube leading to the exterior is there, so a lot of chips would fall down onto the spindle/belt, that seems wrong. Although the exterior of the body says it can take a high speed spindle, the E-shop part numbers suggest only more modern ones are stocked. I will have to contact my Felder salesperson. It's a pretty expensive part, I think I would probably just work a router table into an outfeed table extension (to utilize the slider) and keep the shaper for shaper sized cutters. That's what I did with the Rojek.
The outrigger table is all fine and present. Just no eccentric hold down.
The 3 phase is the problem - due to limited power at my subpanel, I talked to an electrician today. He advised me I should turn off my heat when using the saw and RPC, or I might blow the main under initial motor loading. No other tool in the shop exceeds 4.8hp (3.5KW) single phase, and most are less, so up until now my panel was always ok. It's 80' of difficult conduit pull, mostly underground, so I won't be upgrading. I know because I did it all myself when I was younger and more energetic.
I agree about the 80"¡I was really searching for 98", to just squeak by with sheet goods. I'm already annoyed on enough occasions with the limits of my 5' saw, and 80" isn't much better. 10' is really common as a used saw, even 5' is somewhat common on the used saw-shaper or 5-in-1 market. But 8' seems really rare. I think this length issue (along with the RPC) will keep me looking for a used 8' while I save for another year or so to purchase new. My used budget is $5-6k at present, and I know new is $8-12k, depending on make and manuf. So I'm halfway to new.
Great site (and so many more users than the tiny Minimax iogroups!).
Steve
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I am looking at selling my k3 winner 2000mm slider and purchasing a k700p with the 2500 mm slider.? Would the 2500mm slider on the thee k700p by able to cut the untire length for a 2460mm long sheet of melamine.
thanks
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Re: Adding fence to bandsaw?
Joe,
I mounted Aigner rails on my bandsaw for Aigner pressure wheels following Aigner directions. Later I realize that my felder cast iron extension tables don¡¯t fit. Maybe, I could have mounted the rails differently to make both work.
Imran
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On Mar 5, 2021, at 11:32 PM, Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote: ? I would like to have mounting rails on bandsaws for extension fences when sawing long veneers.? I have Felder rails and tables on my saw and shaper. Is the Aigner rail the same size as the felder rectangular mounting rail? I like that they taper down to prevent snagging your clothes on the rail ends.
?
I really like how the Felder built bandaws have a fence that mounts to the same rail.? They have a split in the rail in front for the blade to pass through.??
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Re: Barn Door Hardware Recommendations
I¡¯m a big fan of KN Crowder products. ?Here is a link to there barn door systems: ?
You may or may not like the esthetics of the Crowder choices - they all hide the track and roller mechanisms. ?
If you prefer the more rustic and exposed mechanism hardware, I know several people who have been happy with the products sold by this outfit: ?
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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On Mar 6, 2021, at 4:47 AM, Patty & Steve Spear via < passpear@...> wrote:
Hi,
? ? ?My wife wants me to replace her pantry door with a barn door. She wants it painted so I was just going to make it out of 6/4 popular. She likes the soft close/open feature. Any suggestions on where to buy the hardware? ?The big box stores carry some, but I am suspect of the quality. I am thinking it maybe worth spending more on the hardware as this door will be opened and closed many times a day. Thanks for your suggestions.?
Steve
|
Barn Door Hardware Recommendations
Hi,
? ? ?My wife wants me to replace her pantry door with a barn door. She wants it painted so I was just going to make it out of 6/4 popular. She likes the soft close/open feature. Any suggestions on where to buy the hardware? ?The big box stores carry some, but I am suspect of the quality. I am thinking it maybe worth spending more on the hardware as this door will be opened and closed many times a day. Thanks for your suggestions.?
Steve
|
Re: Adding fence to bandsaw?
I would like to have mounting rails on bandsaws for extension fences when sawing long veneers.? I have Felder rails and tables on my saw and shaper. Is the Aigner rail the same size as the felder rectangular mounting rail? I like that they taper down to prevent snagging your clothes on the rail ends.
?
I really like how the Felder built bandaws have a fence that mounts to the same rail.? They have a split in the rail in front for the blade to pass through.??
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Re: 20¡± Northfield bandsaw
I had a chat with Jeff at Northfield about a 32¡± bandsaw I was considering.? Got similar information.? The last owner bought in 2006 and sent the wheels
in to Northfield to be trued, new tires, and crowned.? My saw was shipping in 1967 and had 3 owners before me.
?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of Mark Kessler
Sent: Friday, March 5, 2021 8:11 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] 20¡± Northfield bandsaw
?
Thanks Dave, does not include the power feed but he said he could deliver it as he is only about 15min away. Northfield got back to me and below is what he said. Pretty cool to get all the history, the guy selling is the one who bought
it!?
I am looking at this as a under 12-14¡± resaw to replace the laguna 14/12 which actually isn¡¯t that bad as long as its under 7¡±. I would eventually get a larger saw but for now I don¡¯t have the space then use the 20¡± for ¡°scroll¡± work.?
As far as blade selection i was thinking carbide but I think there was a recent discussion on non carbide blades that dis a great job at a lower cost, what your opinion?
Reply from NorthField below,
S/N 612332-I is a 20" Bandsaw that was shipped as a "motor Base at Side No Electrics" Machine.? That means that it had no motor, belts,
pulleys, belt guard or motor starting equipment.? Those items installed at the time of sale by either the distributor or customer.? It also had SZ#0 Carter Guides.
?
It left our Plant on 10/03/1961 and shipped to Enterprise Machinery, one of our Distributors in NY State.
In?2019, Adam Geraldson in Essex Junction, VT?bought it . It
sold for $475.00 in 1961.?
In 2019, We shipped tires and a new #0 Carter Guide.
?
A.? $2K is Fair.
B. ?Don't know what's on it for motor HP or Blade Speed.? You want to be under 5600 feet per minute to resaw effectively. 5,600 fpm on
a 20" wheel equals approximately 1,070 rpm. Shoot for 900 rpm.
C.? None of these saws can provide the tensions the blade people ask for.? The Guides hold the blade.? Don't worry so much about tension.
?
On Mar 5, 2021, at 9:49 AM, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:
?
If condition is good, a decent deal without the feeder and a great one with it.? As a resaw it will be OK but not in the same world as a heavy ACM or Centauro 24" or a NF 27 or32".? It will likely
handle a steel blade but I doubt it will tension a carbide blade if that is what you intend.? The cast iron saws in the 20" range had larger tables and were more of a scroll type saw with occasional resawing.? The 30" saws were built for both and the 36" could
resaw most anything up to 20" wide.? Dave
A 20¡± 1961 northfield bandsaw came up for 2k, is that a fair price? Not sure if the power feeder is included, waiting on a reply. Appears to be in good condition, new tires, 2 hp 3p.?
I will be looking to use this as a resaw at least for now, shopsawn veneers and general resaw
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Re: 20¡± Northfield bandsaw
I believe so.? No internet presence .? I just gave Louis the length, inner and outer dimensions and had him specify the coil.? I know there are formulas but I took the easy way out.? Dave
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Is Iturra still in business?
On Mar 5, 2021, at 8:16 AM, David Kumm < davekumm@...> wrote:
I put an Iturra spring on my Y20 as well and it is a worthwhile upgrade.? Dave
If you¡¯re interested, I bought and refurbished a Northfield 20 last fall and made a YouTube video series about the project.
?
?
?
I also contacted Northfield and added both the single roller resaw fence plus the regular double-sided fence. I also added the Iturra heavy spring, as the standard Northfield spring is really wimpy.? I¡¯m able to tension a ?¡± blade to 25000 psi.? The saw MIGHT
be able to handle a 1¡±, but there are some clearance issues with guides and wheel width where I wasn¡¯t sure if it was worth it, and Iturra said the difference between ?¡± and 1¡± isn¡¯t likely to be huge.
?
I haven¡¯t done a massive amount of resawing, but it¡¯s working OK. I may still have alignment issues with the single roller resaw fence; I¡¯m having arguably better results with the standard fence as long as my board is short enough that I can control it that
way.
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If condition is good, a decent deal without the feeder and a great one with it.? As a resaw it will be OK but not in the same world as a heavy ACM or Centauro 24" or a NF 27 or32".? It will likely handle a steel blade but
I doubt it will tension a carbide blade if that is what you intend.? The cast iron saws in the 20" range had larger tables and were more of a scroll type saw with occasional resawing.? The 30" saws were built for both and the 36" could resaw most anything
up to 20" wide.? Dave
A 20¡± 1961 northfield bandsaw came up for 2k, is that a fair price? Not sure if the power feeder is included, waiting on a reply. Appears to be in good condition, new tires, 2 hp 3p.?
I will be looking to use this as a resaw at least for now, shopsawn veneers and general resaw
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imran
Tom Gensmer
David P. Best
Joe Jensen