Hi Paul,
My pet hate too!? The gap in between the tables, always seems you want to mount the fence right in it! They used to make a fence extension that could be used here it was part no EZ A(14/14)? I tried to get one years ago but Felder told me they didn't have any and weren't re-stocking!
It features in the1997/8 accessories brochure.
Regards,? Martin.
On Thursday, 21 January 2021, 14:30:38 GMT, Paul Curme <paul.curme@...> wrote:
As I have the machine in pieces at the moment I have been going through the list of annoyances and inconveniences that I recall when I was last using the machine in anger.
Top of that list was the inability to fit an extension to the front of the thicknesser table which is not fixable on the 10" thicknesser.
Second is the 6 inch gap between the saw table and the planner table that prevents the rip fence traversing smoothly across the full range of the dovetail.
I'm not talking about trying to replace the entire metal plate just a section at the saw end.
Obviously some clearance between the extension and the planner table but no more than 5-6mm.
Has anyone installed an infill or extension piece between the saw table and the planner table on a BF6 Combination machine, either S Coupling or F Coupling and how did you go about mounting it,
bolted to the edge of the saw table or mounted on studs to the machine chassis?
Any thought or engineering opinion on which is the best approach?
|
Martin,?
I had forgotten about the old cast iron clamp on extension,?
I'm pretty sure that the cast extension in the drawing bolted to the planner table on the 6-41, and was only available in the F coupling.
Could you send the whole parts drawing? so I can figure it out.
Thanks
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Paul,?
I think Felder originally had a bent piece hey of U channel ?than later came out with a cast block with f couplings. They bolted table
edge ?they made s to s ?and s to f think
 
 F 
Designing and building for 50 years
On Jan 21, 2021, at 8:37 AM, David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
?
Paul,
? Aigner makes a couple of mounting adapters
Dave Davies
As I have the machine in pieces at the moment I have been going through the list of annoyances and inconveniences that I recall when I was last using the machine in anger.
Top of that list was the inability to fit an extension to the front of the thicknesser table which is not fixable on the 10" thicknesser.
Second is the 6 inch gap between the saw table and the planner table that prevents the rip fence traversing smoothly across the full range of the dovetail.
I'm not talking about trying to replace the entire metal plate just a section at the saw end.
Obviously some clearance between the extension and the planner table but no more than 5-6mm.
Has anyone installed an infill or extension piece between the saw table and the planner table on a BF6 Combination machine, either S Coupling or F Coupling and how did you go about mounting it,
bolted to the edge of the saw table or mounted on studs to the machine chassis?
Any thought or engineering opinion on which is the best approach?
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Job site saw recommendation?
On 1/21/21 9:54 AM, Bill James via groups.io wrote: if well supported infeed and outfeed I should think that all that other stuff must become fastened securely? to the saw thus adding to its mass.?? It's either that or the saw will rattle around? inside the confines of the external tables
|
The S Coupling has always been a bit of a challenge to set up and maintain,?
I have looked at bolting F rails onto the dovetail to convert the whole machine up to the F Coupling but you end up with a bit of a dog breakfast and not a lot of material to engage the top levelling screw into.
I never fancied? taking the tables off the chassis to machine off the dovetail and fit the F rails, and then re-fit the tables which is the other option.
The edge web of the saw table is only 8mm thick so I'm not confident about cantilevering 6" extension table off that edge.
I'm going to use the infill plate slot and a steel strip to level the top surface so alignment should not be an issue.
In steel the table is 16lbs after a diet and then there is the weigh that could end up on top of it.
Aluminium would be about 4lbs as I would have to thicken some bits, but then there is the hassle of getting it hard anodized.
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Show quoted text
Hi Paul,
Never liked the S coupling to hard to set extension tables and maintain accuracy. I would change to F
A few things i did way back when that were helpful?
Motorized planer table, used a 120 volt Bodine gear motor.it was easy to use manual or with motor no gear stress , instant reverse salvaged Hospital bed motor think i bought 3 at a junk store for $7.00 each.
Had limit switches at top and bottom of stroke . and a AB joy stick that eliminated the hassle, joy stick would? stay up or down? and? able to micro adjust.
I also put gas cylinders on the tables and they would lift themselves.?
On Thursday, January 21, 2021, 09:10:54 AM CST, Paul Curme <paul.curme@...> wrote:
Dave thanks for the suggestion.
I haven't had time to model the machine chassis yet but below is the type of infill I was thinking of.
I have extended it down past the Table hinge to allow for a second vertical support to the chassis.
I am working with the S coupling on my machine I did wonder whether it was possible to use the?
stock hammer extension and just re machine the coupling as you can carve an S Coupling out of an F Coupling.
Paul,
? Aigner makes a couple of mounting adapters
Dave Davies
As I have the machine in pieces at the moment I have been going through the list of annoyances and inconveniences that I recall when I was last using the machine in anger.
Top of that list was the inability to fit an extension to the front of the thicknesser table which is not fixable on the 10" thicknesser.
Second is the 6 inch gap between the saw table and the planner table that prevents the rip fence traversing smoothly across the full range of the dovetail.
I'm not talking about trying to replace the entire metal plate just a section at the saw end.
Obviously some clearance between the extension and the planner table but no more than 5-6mm.
Has anyone installed an infill or extension piece between the saw table and the planner table on a BF6 Combination machine, either S Coupling or F Coupling and how did you go about mounting it,
bolted to the edge of the saw table or mounted on studs to the machine chassis?
Any thought or engineering opinion on which is the best approach?
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Job site saw recommendation?
@This is a great point. ?It has been a few years since I've used a traditional table saw..... that blade is going to feel very close!”
ditto on working without clamps on slider. I did not realize how used to clamps I have become on my KF700 until I got K975. I felt uncomfortable working on it without clamps. So that was my first accessory for K975.
Imran
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On Jan 21, 2021, at 10:20 AM, Anthony Quesada <tonymiga2@...> wrote: ? Great feedback guys....you are bringing up some great questions and ideas. ?Jason and Mac, thanks for the recommendations!?Cliff - Height- Really good consideration that I hadn't thought of. ?hmmmm.?
Hamish Casimir- "One of the few negatives are the slots for the mitre gauge." Great intel. ?
"Also the thicker Euro shaft will prevent you from using standard US,? 5/8" shaft sized saw blades, dado stacks etc." ?
? ? ? ? ? ?Also good info. ?I don't have any standard blades having moved on from my earlier cabinet saw when I bought the felder. ?I imagine any saw I get I will need to purchase a few blades as well. ?But super helpful regardless!?
Imran-?
?
"I am not sure if your dad will work on anything large in size" - We have a ?track saw and an adjustable height table, that I picture using as an indeed or outfield support when needed. ?But I picture breaking down big stuff with the track saw before bringing it to the job site saw. ?
"Theft is not uncommon on job sites" ?This is also a great point! ?Had some stuff disappear the last time I built a house. ?That was in the city where it is the cost of doing business, but that is certainly something that is worth considering.... bummer
Bill James - I am certainly better with a table saw than a circular saw! ?Regrettably I never worked on a construction crew as a kid and feel like I never earned my stripes with a circular saw. ?
Michael- Saw stop- "But after using a slider and hold downs, when I do use it I am getting a lot closer to a blade than I am comfortable with" ?
? ? This is a great point. ?It has been a few years since I've used a traditional table saw..... that blade is going to feel very close!?
|
Jason, missed the LED light question.
Is an option on the k940 and up, indicates that the scoring is on and up. I really like it, because use aolid wood for the most part i use the scoring either infrequently or multiple times a week depending and can forget (even within a few hours that I left it on, now you could argue that since I have auto scoring whats the need, it drops when the saw is off well if you don’t turn off the switch and don’t use the shop for a few days it’s pretty easy to forget its on. It’s pretty inexpensive i think i paid $300 and I grow money on trees 2 months out of the year so... when I had my business my slider only ever saw sheet goods so you new the scoring was up. I still think it’s a wise investment for $300, for sure in a hobby shop and even a commercial shop?
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On Jan 21, 2021, at 9:45 AM, Jason Holtz <jholtzy@...> wrote:
? Mark, Just curious about your need for a zci. Is it solely to keep offcuts from getting sucked down the throat? I know with sufficient dust?collection this is an issue on our KF. I bought one of John Renzatti's inserts years ago, but it's never actually been on the saw. We tilt the blade often enough that it would be a huge hassle.
What's this LED light?business?all about? Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Jason,
Curious if your KF has scoring. I bought ZCI from John R for my KF sans scoring and never installed it.
K975 is a diff story. I don’t care much if the off cuts go down in DC. However, more often than not it is a violent event scoring running or not. Sometimes the piece gets wedged and dances on the turning scoring blade. I am afraid something will get damaged.
Imran
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On Jan 21, 2021, at 9:45 AM, Jason Holtz <jholtzy@...> wrote: ? Mark, Just curious about your need for a zci. Is it solely to keep offcuts from getting sucked down the throat? I know with sufficient dust?collection this is an issue on our KF. I bought one of John Renzatti's inserts years ago, but it's never actually been on the saw. We tilt the blade often enough that it would be a huge hassle.
What's this LED light?business?all about? Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Re: Learned a important lesson today...
Annu,
I don't know what a c31 is but you might try straightening it.? Some materials like hot rolled steel keep a memory of their original shape.? Heat, quench and some persuasion can relieve the stress from the new twist and return to its original shape.? A mapp gas torch might be enough or a friend with an oxy-acetylene rig. You would not be out much but time if it doesn't work.?
|
I measured the space between the blade teeth and the table on my Kappa 400 and found it to be 3.2mm What is the gap on the K940?
Bill Bélanger?
On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 07:44 Jason Holtz < jholtzy@...> wrote: Mark, Just curious about your need for a zci. Is it solely to keep offcuts from getting sucked down the throat? I know with sufficient dust?collection this is an issue on our KF. I bought one of John Renzatti's inserts years ago, but it's never actually been on the saw. We tilt the blade often enough that it would be a huge hassle.
What's this LED light?business?all about? Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
612 432-2765
--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
|
I am also interested to know more about the reason for a ZCI. I have small off cuts sucked inside the saw chassis or the scoring blade is throwing the small off cuts toward the main blade or downward and then to the wall behind the saw, but never thought it was an actual issue. The only issue I have encountered is when I want a really thin rip like 1/8 or less. This type of thin off cuts are just sucked inside the saw chassis. My workaround so far is to rip a piece long enough so that I can manually grab the off cut pass the blade guard if I am pulling the outrigger to make the cut. This way the off cut cannot be sucked in and I still get a descent length of off cuts not damaged by the blade after I grab it.
Bill
|
JP,? Not sure if the same design would fit, would have to confirm when you get it.
Anthony, I started it in Siemens NX but the version I am using is customized for mold making and I don’t use it every day so it became to time consuming. I now use Shaper3d with iPad and pencil, totally awesome and fast the drawback is that you can’t get the 2d dims drawings without a bit of extra work, you have to either create a plane and project the edges or export to a 3rd party program. They are adding the feature though in the next few weeks. For this design I don’t need to create 2d drawings as I will just export an X_T file for the cnc.?
Jason, mostly for kickback of small cutoffs and strips plugging up the hose. i too have never liked them for the same reason you mention but came to find out that on the k940 that you don’t need to remove it to tilt the blade at least with a 300mm blade, now not sure how great it will be with the 90 slot and 45deg slot at the same time not to mention different angles, we will see i can imagine changing it out more often with a new one because of that. Juat this morning I had an idea for a quick change insert, i mean 4 short bolts don’t take that long but what is you needed no tools?
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On Jan 21, 2021, at 10:02 AM, Randy Child via groups.io <strongman_one@...> wrote:
?
One of the issues with not having the ZCI is sometimes I have to slice off the ends of solid boards and that small off cut can wedge between the blade and the deflect it into the sliding table.? With a ZCI, that problem is eliminated since the off cut will just sit on the insert and not go anywhere. I'm really hoping someone can 3D print something for the K975 and make it available for purchase.. I'm willing to buy several if they ever got made
On Thursday, January 21, 2021, 06:45:01 AM PST, Jason Holtz <jholtzy@...> wrote:
Mark, Just curious about your need for a zci. Is it solely to keep offcuts from getting sucked down the throat? I know with sufficient dust?collection this is an issue on our KF. I bought one of John Renzatti's inserts years ago, but it's never actually been on the saw. We tilt the blade often enough that it would be a huge hassle.
What's this LED light?business?all about? Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Re: Job site saw recommendation?
Use extension roller? with Erica for ripping? ?the Facia on my shack is clear V fir 1.5 x 11" all corners required compound miters. with erica just lay 18' plank on table clamp , support the end with roller and pull saw through for perfect cut.?
On Thursday, January 21, 2021, 09:14:14 AM CST, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:
On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 06:47 AM, Jason Holtz wrote:
Ripping a 12' 2x6 on a jobsite saw that weighs less than the board you're cutting is a challenge as well. You couldn't do it solo anyway.
?
It's a piece of cake.? You push it half way through to the balance point, then walk around to the other side, and pull it the rest of the way.? With heavy boards, you need to screw the saw down to something with a little heft, or clamp it to your tailgate, etc.
|
Hi Paul, Never liked the S coupling to hard to set extension tables and maintain accuracy. I would change to F A few things i did way back when that were helpful? Motorized planer table, used a 120 volt Bodine gear motor.it was easy to use manual or with motor no gear stress , instant reverse salvaged Hospital bed motor think i bought 3 at a junk store for $7.00 each. Had limit switches at top and bottom of stroke . and a AB joy stick that eliminated the hassle, joy stick would? stay up or down? and? able to micro adjust. I also put gas cylinders on the tables and they would lift themselves.?
On Thursday, January 21, 2021, 09:10:54 AM CST, Paul Curme <paul.curme@...> wrote:
Dave thanks for the suggestion.
I haven't had time to model the machine chassis yet but below is the type of infill I was thinking of.
I have extended it down past the Table hinge to allow for a second vertical support to the chassis.
I am working with the S coupling on my machine I did wonder whether it was possible to use the?
stock hammer extension and just re machine the coupling as you can carve an S Coupling out of an F Coupling.
Paul,
? Aigner makes a couple of mounting adapters
Dave Davies
As I have the machine in pieces at the moment I have been going through the list of annoyances and inconveniences that I recall when I was last using the machine in anger.
Top of that list was the inability to fit an extension to the front of the thicknesser table which is not fixable on the 10" thicknesser.
Second is the 6 inch gap between the saw table and the planner table that prevents the rip fence traversing smoothly across the full range of the dovetail.
I'm not talking about trying to replace the entire metal plate just a section at the saw end.
Obviously some clearance between the extension and the planner table but no more than 5-6mm.
Has anyone installed an infill or extension piece between the saw table and the planner table on a BF6 Combination machine, either S Coupling or F Coupling and how did you go about mounting it,
bolted to the edge of the saw table or mounted on studs to the machine chassis?
Any thought or engineering opinion on which is the best approach?
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Job site saw recommendation?
Great feedback guys....you are bringing up some great questions and ideas. ?Jason and Mac, thanks for the recommendations!?Cliff - Height- Really good consideration that I hadn't thought of. ?hmmmm.?
Hamish Casimir- "One of the few negatives are the slots for the mitre gauge." Great intel. ?
"Also the thicker Euro shaft will prevent you from using standard US,? 5/8" shaft sized saw blades, dado stacks etc." ?
? ? ? ? ? ?Also good info. ?I don't have any standard blades having moved on from my earlier cabinet saw when I bought the felder. ?I imagine any saw I get I will need to purchase a few blades as well. ?But super helpful regardless!?
Imran-?
?
"I am not sure if your dad will work on anything large in size" - We have a ?track saw and an adjustable height table, that I picture using as an indeed or outfield support when needed. ?But I picture breaking down big stuff with the track saw before bringing it to the job site saw. ?
"Theft is not uncommon on job sites" ?This is also a great point! ?Had some stuff disappear the last time I built a house. ?That was in the city where it is the cost of doing business, but that is certainly something that is worth considering.... bummer
Bill James - I am certainly better with a table saw than a circular saw! ?Regrettably I never worked on a construction crew as a kid and feel like I never earned my stripes with a circular saw. ?
Michael- Saw stop- "But after using a slider and hold downs, when I do use it I am getting a lot closer to a blade than I am comfortable with" ?
? ? This is a great point. ?It has been a few years since I've used a traditional table saw..... that blade is going to feel very close!?
|
Re: Job site saw recommendation?
Fair point.? Almost easier to chew a panel to size.? Dave
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Show quoted text
I don’t doubt blade alignment relative to the fence has something do with it, but when wrestling full pieces of sheeting and/or long 2x6 on a small saw, I’m not sure that there’s any way to prevent the back of the blade contacting the material due to the material
being fed inconsistently and wobbling on and off the fence. Two people helps, but doesn’t eliminate the wobble, at least in my experience.
?
Blade alignment has a lot to do with saws spitting dust forward to the operator.? It generally means the back of the blade is upcutting which should not happen.? My Bosch did not spit forward.
I also found with my Bosch- 20 years old as well-? that clamping a 4' level to the fence helped me when ripping.? Additional fence, particularly in front of the blade helped to compensate for the small table and my
tendency to cant long stock.? Dave
I built two houses with a Bosch 4100 from about 2003. At the time it was the best of the normal brands – the fence was awesome. This was pre-riving knife, so not as up-to-date with safety features. I am sure the new one is better.
?
A couple notes later on – I gave the saw to my dad who has used it sparingly. In his time, he has had the far motor bearing seize twice, requiring replacement. The good news is parts are still available. The bad news is why did this happen? And more than once?
?
One general comment – any table saw without good dust collection throws a huge amount of crap in your face. When I upgraded to my first cabinet saw (Sawstop ICS), I was blown away at the usability difference, because – especially after getting the blade guard
with dust connector – I could use the saw without gagging and gasping. That was far and away the best part of upgrading for me. I could have done more with dust collection on the cabinet saw, and in hindsight I wish I did.
?
Thanks Michael, putting down another vote for the Bosch! ?
|
Re: Job site saw recommendation?
On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 06:47 AM, Jason Holtz wrote:
Ripping a 12' 2x6 on a jobsite saw that weighs less than the board you're cutting is a challenge as well. You couldn't do it solo anyway.
?
It's a piece of cake.? You push it half way through to the balance point, then walk around to the other side, and pull it the rest of the way.? With heavy boards, you need to screw the saw down to something with a little heft, or clamp it to your tailgate, etc.
|
Re: Job site saw recommendation?
I don’t doubt blade alignment relative to the fence has something do with it, but when wrestling full pieces of sheeting and/or long 2x6 on a small saw, I’m not sure that there’s any way to prevent the back of the blade contacting the material
due to the material being fed inconsistently and wobbling on and off the fence. Two people helps, but doesn’t eliminate the wobble, at least in my experience.
?
Blade alignment has a lot to do with saws spitting dust forward to the operator.? It generally means the back of the blade is upcutting which should not happen.? My Bosch did not spit forward.
I also found with my Bosch- 20 years old as well-? that clamping a 4' level to the fence helped me when ripping.? Additional fence, particularly in front of the blade helped to compensate for the
small table and my tendency to cant long stock.? Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of TJ Cornish <tj@...>
Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2021 9:54 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Job site saw recommendation?
I built two houses with a Bosch 4100 from about 2003. At the time it was the best of the normal brands – the fence was awesome. This was pre-riving knife, so not as up-to-date with safety features. I am sure the new one is better.
?
A couple notes later on – I gave the saw to my dad who has used it sparingly. In his time, he has had the far motor bearing seize twice, requiring replacement. The good news is parts are still available. The bad news is why did this happen?
And more than once?
?
One general comment – any table saw without good dust collection throws a huge amount of crap in your face. When I upgraded to my first cabinet saw (Sawstop ICS), I was blown away at the usability difference, because – especially after
getting the blade guard with dust connector – I could use the saw without gagging and gasping. That was far and away the best part of upgrading for me. I could have done more with dust collection on the cabinet saw, and in hindsight I wish I did.
?
Thanks Michael, putting down another vote for the Bosch! ?
|
Dave thanks for the suggestion.
I haven't had time to model the machine chassis yet but below is the type of infill I was thinking of.
I have extended it down past the Table hinge to allow for a second vertical support to the chassis.
I am working with the S coupling on my machine I did wonder whether it was possible to use the?
stock hammer extension and just re machine the coupling as you can carve an S Coupling out of an F Coupling.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Paul,
? Aigner makes a couple of mounting adapters
Dave Davies
As I have the machine in pieces at the moment I have been going through the list of annoyances and inconveniences that I recall when I was last using the machine in anger.
Top of that list was the inability to fit an extension to the front of the thicknesser table which is not fixable on the 10" thicknesser.
Second is the 6 inch gap between the saw table and the planner table that prevents the rip fence traversing smoothly across the full range of the dovetail.
I'm not talking about trying to replace the entire metal plate just a section at the saw end.
Obviously some clearance between the extension and the planner table but no more than 5-6mm.
Has anyone installed an infill or extension piece between the saw table and the planner table on a BF6 Combination machine, either S Coupling or F Coupling and how did you go about mounting it,
bolted to the edge of the saw table or mounted on studs to the machine chassis?
Any thought or engineering opinion on which is the best approach?
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Paul,? I think Felder originally had a bent piece hey of U channel ?than later came out with a cast block with f couplings. They bolted table edge ?they made s to s ?and s to f think
 F  Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 21, 2021, at 8:37 AM, David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
? Paul, ? Aigner makes a couple of mounting adapters
Dave Davies
As I have the machine in pieces at the moment I have been going through the list of annoyances and inconveniences that I recall when I was last using the machine in anger.
Top of that list was the inability to fit an extension to the front of the thicknesser table which is not fixable on the 10" thicknesser.
Second is the 6 inch gap between the saw table and the planner table that prevents the rip fence traversing smoothly across the full range of the dovetail.
I'm not talking about trying to replace the entire metal plate just a section at the saw end.
Obviously some clearance between the extension and the planner table but no more than 5-6mm.
Has anyone installed an infill or extension piece between the saw table and the planner table on a BF6 Combination machine, either S Coupling or F Coupling and how did you go about mounting it,
bolted to the edge of the saw table or mounted on studs to the machine chassis?
Any thought or engineering opinion on which is the best approach?
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Job site saw recommendation?
Blade alignment has a lot to do with saws spitting dust forward to the operator.? It generally means the back of the blade is upcutting which should not happen.? My Bosch did not spit forward.
I also found with my Bosch- 20 years old as well-? that clamping a 4' level to the fence helped me when ripping.? Additional fence, particularly in front of the blade helped to compensate for the small table and my tendency to cant long stock.? Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I built two houses with a Bosch 4100 from about 2003. At the time it was the best of the normal brands – the fence was awesome. This was pre-riving knife, so not as up-to-date with safety features. I am sure the new one is better.
?
A couple notes later on – I gave the saw to my dad who has used it sparingly. In his time, he has had the far motor bearing seize twice, requiring replacement. The good news is parts are still available. The bad news is why did this happen? And more than once?
?
One general comment – any table saw without good dust collection throws a huge amount of crap in your face. When I upgraded to my first cabinet saw (Sawstop ICS), I was blown away at the usability difference, because – especially after getting the blade guard
with dust connector – I could use the saw without gagging and gasping. That was far and away the best part of upgrading for me. I could have done more with dust collection on the cabinet saw, and in hindsight I wish I did.
?
Thanks Michael, putting down another vote for the Bosch! ?
|
imran
Jonathan Smith
Bill Belanger