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Re: Kappa 400 Below Table Dust Extraction + Kappa 400 Review

 

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I’m happy with my Kappa. It was some issue with dust port. Always big chunks stack . But we came out solution?
Im even planing update to kappa 590 !!
Elegance Custom Cabinetry?
Minneapolis, Minnesota?

Regards?

Dmitry Ivanovs .

On Jan 3, 2021, at 17:28, JP Rice via groups.io <jprphotos@...> wrote:

?

Mark, I hope you are right, was kinda of disappointed to read of the poorer dust collection on the Kappa 400. I have enjoyed very good dust collection on my K500P with Grizzly overhead dust guard. Of course I think the 5hp Oneida Gorilla Pro with Smart Boost cyclone has a lot to do with that.?

Pat


Re: Flattening my workbench - using Brian's level

 

I did the same thing about 6 months ago. I was surprised how much twist it had. Even the vise faces didn't meet evenly. Much better now.


Re: Kappa 400 Below Table Dust Extraction + Kappa 400 Review

 

Mark, I hope you are right, was kinda of disappointed to read of the poorer dust collection on the Kappa 400. I have enjoyed very good dust collection on my K500P with Grizzly overhead dust guard. Of course I think the 5hp Oneida Gorilla Pro with Smart Boost cyclone has a lot to do with that.?

Pat


Re: Kappa 400 Below Table Dust Extraction + Kappa 400 Review

 

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Nice write up Lucky, now you have me thinking I should have sprung for the xmotion on the k940?.... For what it’s worth the k940 I received with a build date of Nov 2020 does have a 5” internal dust hose well as the saw port casting being 5”, i believe the saw aggregate is the same in the kappa 400 so the must have changed it recently.?

Regards, Mark



On Jan 3, 2021, at 5:56 PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:

?
Pat:

Great. I think you’ll love the saw. And a huge yes to getting an epoxy floor put in BEFORE the Kappa arrives. I’ve done my epoxy floor in parts, moving all the machinery into 1 third of the shop, and then moving it around so I could get at the entire floor. It was soooo painful, but I love the result.

Lucky
On 4 Jan 2021, at 8:53 am, JP Rice via <jprphotos@...> wrote:

Thank you Lucky for the detailed response. In considering upgrading from my K500P, I had previously said I was going with the K700S, but changed my order to the Kappa 400 X-Motion. Now for a estimated 20 week wait for delivery, but that will give me plenty of time to get a phase converter wired into my shop (currently leaning towards the Phase Perfect PT010). Also I am seriously considering hiring someone to put on a nice epoxy floor coating after grinding down the old finish and leveling out the high spots.?

Pat Rice



Re: Kappa 400 Below Table Dust Extraction + Kappa 400 Review

 

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Pat:

Great. I think you’ll love the saw. And a huge yes to getting an epoxy floor put in BEFORE the Kappa arrives. I’ve done my epoxy floor in parts, moving all the machinery into 1 third of the shop, and then moving it around so I could get at the entire floor. It was soooo painful, but I love the result.

Lucky

On 4 Jan 2021, at 8:53 am, JP Rice via <jprphotos@...> wrote:

Thank you Lucky for the detailed response. In considering upgrading from my K500P, I had previously said I was going with the K700S, but changed my order to the Kappa 400 X-Motion. Now for a estimated 20 week wait for delivery, but that will give me plenty of time to get a phase converter wired into my shop (currently leaning towards the Phase Perfect PT010). Also I am seriously considering hiring someone to put on a nice epoxy floor coating after grinding down the old finish and leveling out the high spots.?

Pat Rice



Re: Kappa 400 Below Table Dust Extraction + Kappa 400 Review

 

Thank you Lucky for the detailed response. In considering upgrading from my K500P, I had previously said I was going with the K700S, but changed my order to the Kappa 400 X-Motion. Now for a estimated 20 week wait for delivery, but that will give me plenty of time to get a phase converter wired into my shop (currently leaning towards the Phase Perfect PT010). Also I am seriously considering hiring someone to put on a nice epoxy floor coating after grinding down the old finish and leveling out the high spots.?

Pat Rice


Re: Flattening my workbench - using Brian's level

 

nice idea. sweet looking workbench also


Re: Kappa 400 Below Table Dust Extraction + Kappa 400 Review

 

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HI Pat:

I’m not sure whether you’re directing your “it’s been five years” email to me or someone else, but for sure I had a lot to say about the poor dust design of the Kappa 400.

Has it been five years? Wow. Here’s a brief review of the Kappa 400, five years on, with the dust issue mentioned first. Sorry for changing the subject title but I thought future prospective Kappa 400 buyers might like to read one user’s review.

1. Dust Extraction

Rubbish. Felder engineers bought into the idea that the RL units have sufficient pressure to overcome choke areas (reduced cross section) and still move an adequate amount of air volume to remove fine dust. When I say “pressure”, think of a Festool vacuum with it’s 27mm hose. Those vacs have high pressure but low volume characteristics; hence they are awesome for fine dust control. The RL units, on the other hand, do not produce a high enough pressure to deal with the very small cross sectional areas on the Kappa 400 (above and below table). As a result, air flow (volume) is greatly reduced and the machine produces a lot of fine dust. I am referring to the RL units because I have owned an RL160 in the past and currently own an RL250. I understand other extractors have a different pressure profile and I make no comment about them.

Below table extraction is shockingly poor. The 4” internal ducting cannot be enlarged because it attaches directly to the main cast iron saw unit. Further, that ducting goes through a full 90 degree “S-bend” because of the constraints of the machine chassis and Felder’s design choice to put the ducting fully inside the machine body. I had a robust discussion with Hansjorg Felder when he was here in Australia. At the time he admitted to me that the Kappa 400 certifications applied to man-made material only and not to solid wood. I was shocked and told him so, as his claims about “superiority” were unfounded. I do not know if the situation is the same now. I can say that cutting manmade board does produce far less dust (anecdotally) than cutting solid wood.

The upper table extraction is adequate. Best practice (a.k.a. Bill Pentz) would dictate that Felder should increase the cross sectional area of the vertical aluminium extrusion. I was all for rebuilding and remaking the upper guard five years ago. Now? Meh. Is the poor dust design bad enough to make me not recommend this machine? No. It is flawed, but it is also not that bad. Yes, the Martin T70 is night-and-day superior, in my opinion, but that machine is in a very different price category — at least here in Australia.

2. Reliability of Electronics

Outstanding. My Kappa 400 has performed exceedingly well over five years. The digital stops on the crosscut fence just work. Yes they’re not fun when replacing batteries and recalibrating, but with David Best’s help, this has become a minor annoyance. (Thank you David.) Do they hold calibration? Yes they do. Surprisingly well.

The powered rip fence is likewise very robust and just works. I had a Delta Unisaw previously, so I am familiar with, and like, the aluminium fence design on the Kappa 400, and how I can pull it back half way for repetitive “bump stop” work. Again, this fence just works.

Most interesting for those who are worried about touch screens is the fact that the head up display has worked perfectly for five years. The saw powers up and down beautifully. It could break tomorrow, but it could also go another five years. I would not be surprised either way, and I regard the Kappa 400 electronics with great respect.

3. Other Observations

I bought the "x-roll outrigger” option for the superior design and the digital angle gauge and have enjoyed it very much. Again, David Best steered me true on this option and I believe it is still the best option for prospective Kappa 400 buyers. I like that I can move the digital cross cut fence (which is incredibly heavy with three digital stops on it), through any angle I want with a minimum of fuss. The cross cut fence has held it’s “squareness” calibration. Several years ago I checked it using the large square and dial indicator and gave it a very minor tweak. Once in five years! It cuts square and stays square.

Mac’s clamps are the single most important accessory I bought for the Kappa 400. I’ve owned them from day one and am constantly reminded how quick and safe my set-ups are with his clamps, particularly when I see how my colleagues use their sliders. They are absolutely worth the money and anyone who can afford a Kappa 400 should heed the virtual universal advice to purchase Mac’s clamps. Thanks Mac.

For those solid wood furniture guys who are considering making the jump to a slider, I sympathise with your fears about solid wood cutting, ripping of small parts, etc. This topic has been discussed ad nauseam, but I wanted to reiterate that I regard my Kappa 400 as a more capable machine than my Delta Unisaw, in every single category. Yes it takes more time to set up a parallel fence to cut parts using the sliding table. But the quality of results more than makes up for the “lost time”. And if I can’t be bothered (usually for low volume cuts), I just use the rip fence in the same way as I did on the Unisaw — a conventional rip on the right side of the blade. Works just fine. There; I said it! :-)

At times I see on this forum some prospective buyers of the K700 variants, start to look inquiringly at the 900 series or indeed Kappa series, and ask questions about features, build, etc. Rarely does the value of the head up display factor in the discussion. There are several set programs which are exceptionally valuable to furniture makers and puts the Kappa series well above the other saws on offer by Felder, in my opinion.

- If I want to cut a groove say 9mm wide, using the current blade on the machine, I can enter this into the head up display and let the saw do the rest. It will automatically adjust the depth of cut to whatever I input, and will guide me through a series of cuts which yields an exact 9mm groove. Part of the parameters include entering how far from the edge of the board I want the groove. In this example, the saw would have me make a cut, the fence moves over 3mm (with a 3.2mm wide blade installed), make another cut, move over another 3mm and make the final cut. Because the rip fence is so accurate, the groove is always 9mm. I love this feature.

- This same sort of programming exists for rebates (essentially a “groove” on the edge of a board), and multiple grooves a set distance apart. If I have the dado blade installed, it will compensate for that by entering the appropriate parameters (i.e. the width of the dado configuration). The saw does the rest.

This “programming” ability was probably developed for high volume kitchen applications. I don’t care. It works intuitively, quickly, and so well, that I use it all the time, even for a single groove. This programming aspect of the Kappa 400 should be kept in mind when considering which saw to buy.

4. Would I buy another Kappa 400.

Yes.

Warm regards,
Lucky

On 1 Jan 2021, at 10:54 pm, JP Rice via <jprphotos@...> wrote:

It’s 2021, five years since your post on Kappa 400 dust collection, did FELDER make any changes to the overhead and below dust collection on the Kappa 400? Did you ever come up with a better solution??

Pat Rice



Re: Flattening my workbench - using Brian's level

 

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A good level has a thousand uses… Super nice bench, well done!

Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com




On Jan 3, 2021, at 12:44 PM, dennisnmnyamamoto via <dennisnmnyamamoto@...> wrote:

I'm between projects so I decided to flatten my Roubo workbench.? I started by using two levels, one yellow and one black, as winding sticks.? With my old eyes I found it difficult to see the twist especially when the levels were far apart.

As I was trying to decide about how much twist my eyes could detect, it came to me to use Brian's level (Lamb Tool Works) to measure the twist.? It worked great, and just about too good.? My bench is flat with minimal twist after using a #5 cross grain, a #7 at 45 degrees, and a #4 along the grain.??

? Dennis

<P1020917.JPG><P1020918.JPG> <P1020918.JPG>


Re: Flattening my workbench - using Brian's level

 

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nice bench and well done ??

Imran

On Jan 3, 2021, at 2:44 PM, dennisnmnyamamoto via groups.io <dennisnmnyamamoto@...> wrote:

?I'm between projects so I decided to flatten my Roubo workbench.? I started by using two levels, one yellow and one black, as winding sticks.? With my old eyes I found it difficult to see the twist especially when the levels were far apart.

As I was trying to decide about how much twist my eyes could detect, it came to me to use Brian's level (Lamb Tool Works) to measure the twist.? It worked great, and just about too good.? My bench is flat with minimal twist after using a #5 cross grain, a #7 at 45 degrees, and a #4 along the grain.??

? Dennis

<P1020917.JPG>
<P1020918.JPG>


Flattening my workbench - using Brian's level

 

I'm between projects so I decided to flatten my Roubo workbench.? I started by using two levels, one yellow and one black, as winding sticks.? With my old eyes I found it difficult to see the twist especially when the levels were far apart.

As I was trying to decide about how much twist my eyes could detect, it came to me to use Brian's level (Lamb Tool Works) to measure the twist.? It worked great, and just about too good.? My bench is flat with minimal twist after using a #5 cross grain, a #7 at 45 degrees, and a #4 along the grain.??

? Dennis


Re: Cetol Door & Window now PPG Proluxe

 

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I am applying it in shop . First time used the niosh ov/sd/hc/cl filters on my mask. These are ~15 yrs old. Did not smell a thing until i took them off before leaving the shop, so I guess they work. I could smell my jacket once in the house, so put that in the garage. Shop is at 60 due to this job, hopefully, I can apply 2nd coat tonight or tomorrow.

I will prepare more parts. Had I known it will go so quick, I would have prepared everything.

Imran

Imran

On Jan 3, 2021, at 2:06 PM, Shawn Kammerer via groups.io <shawnkammerer@...> wrote:

? It’s great stuff. The first coat dries in a reasonable amount of time, depending on your weather conditions, but subsequent coats take forever to dry if you do full coats in cold temperatures, so plan accordingly. I’ve wiped it on in thin coats before, if it’s cold. If you do, it takes a lot more coats, but you have less bugs doing belly flops in it at least. A nice heavy coat that stays wet for a day?is really inviting for anything that happens to fly by.?
-Shawn




On Sunday, January 3, 2021, 10:55 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:

I have no great experience in finishing but I have to say that I have not used anything that is so easy and quick to apply. Off course I have only applied the first coat and 3 coats are required but I am very happy so far.

Imran





Re: Cetol Door & Window now PPG Proluxe

 

It’s great stuff. The first coat dries in a reasonable amount of time, depending on your weather conditions, but subsequent coats take forever to dry if you do full coats in cold temperatures, so plan accordingly. I’ve wiped it on in thin coats before, if it’s cold. If you do, it takes a lot more coats, but you have less bugs doing belly flops in it at least. A nice heavy coat that stays wet for a day?is really inviting for anything that happens to fly by.?
-Shawn




On Sunday, January 3, 2021, 10:55 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:

I have no great experience in finishing but I have to say that I have not used anything that is so easy and quick to apply. Off course I have only applied the first coat and 3 coats are required but I am very happy so far.

Imran





Cetol Door & Window now PPG Proluxe

 

I have no great experience in finishing but I have to say that I have not used anything that is so easy and quick to apply. Off course I have only applied the first coat and 3 coats are required but I am very happy so far.

Imran


Re: Aigner, Rangate #forsale

 

Greg:

Are any of the Rangate items still available? If yes, which ones?

Thanks,

Fred Rossi


Re: RL125 Collecting Chips in Back Right Corner

 

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Yup, rear corner of the intake side. I have been pulling the bin before i can see the chips in window and still get the pile on floor.

I have pulled the bin way before it is full and can see the it being almost full in that corner.

I ordered new filter. Will see if it makes any difference.

Imran

On Jan 2, 2021, at 5:17 PM, Bill James via groups.io <xxrb2010@...> wrote:

?Imran,

Did overfill the bin today and I got a lot of dust falling down when I pull the drum. As the bin was more than full on the right (where you have the intake in my RL140), it makes sense for the dust above the bin to fall when the cart is removed.

It was the first time I saw some daw dust through the windows of the bin. I guess I planed and jointed too much boards during Christmas.

Bill


Re: Broken Tap

 

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This is the tap and die holder I made for my lathe - including drawings if you want to make your own. ? Adjust a bit more sophisticated than Joe Pie’s. ?



David Best - via mobile phone?

On Jan 2, 2021, at 10:49 AM, David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:

?
David Best introduced me to this channel on youtube and I'm working through his videos in preparation to start playing with a new mill and lathe.? Found this video and wanted to post here as an extension of the discussion on tapping.
Dave





On Mon, Dec 14, 2020 at 1:45 PM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:

one more thing

When hand tapping? using a cutting tap or die ( as opposed to a forming tap or die) Drive the tap in? about half a turn ( or so)? and then back it out? a half turn (or so).? You will figure this out? the forst time you do it.? What is happening is? you need to "Break the Chip" that was forming as the tap or die cut into the material.?

Backing it off like that? will? do a few things (1)? Replenish the lube at the cutting? edges, (2) snap that off and make things progress easier, (3)? it makes it way more possible? to extract a broken tap and? (4) way less likely? that you will snap a tap.?


On 12/13/20 7:55 PM, imranindiana via wrote:
is anyone familiar with accusize industrial tools? it is a canadian co out of toronto. i recently purchased two tap & drill sets metric and SAE. i went with them because they offered HSS at reasonable price.


i used the 1/2-13 tap first time today and it broke mid way in 1/2” CR1018 steel bar. yes, i did drill 27/64” hole with the drill that came with the tap. just curious, folks with metal knowhow, can you tell if this break shows a manufacturing defect?

<image0.jpeg>
<image1.jpeg>
<image2.jpeg>


i am sure they will send me a replacement tap but i am just wondering if i should return the set or both sets because i am not sure of the quality any more.

Imran



--
Dave & Marie Davies

318-219-7868


Re: RL125 Collecting Chips in Back Right Corner

 

Imran,

Did overfill the bin today and I got a lot of dust falling down when I pull the drum. As the bin was more than full on the right (where you have the intake in my RL140), it makes sense for the dust above the bin to fall when the cart is removed.

It was the first time I saw some daw dust through the windows of the bin. I guess I planed and jointed too much boards during Christmas.

Bill


Re: The Unofficial Survival Guide

 

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I had not given this much thought, but it takes 2 to bid something up. It was stated that the winning bid has no buy/sell history. How about the other party that was involved?

Imran

On Jan 2, 2021, at 12:04 PM, Stan Blaszczyk <blaszcsj@...> wrote:

?I know, that’s why I just gave up after trying 5-6 times. I was just shocked to see it go up to nearly 2k?


Re: Broken Tap

 

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Yes – Same here although it’s in my back yard in Austin, TX.?

?

Regards,

?

Chris Perren

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of David Davies
Sent: Saturday, January 2, 2021 12:49 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Broken Tap

?

David Best introduced me to this channel on youtube and I'm working through his videos in preparation to start playing with a new mill and lathe.? Found this video and wanted to post here as an extension of the discussion on tapping.

Dave

?

?

?

?

On Mon, Dec 14, 2020 at 1:45 PM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:

one more thing

When hand tapping? using a cutting tap or die ( as opposed to a forming tap or die) Drive the tap in? about half a turn ( or so)? and then back it out? a half turn (or so).? You will figure this out? the forst time you do it.? What is happening is? you need to "Break the Chip" that was forming as the tap or die cut into the material.?

Backing it off like that? will? do a few things (1)? Replenish the lube at the cutting? edges, (2) snap that off and make things progress easier, (3)? it makes it way more possible? to extract a broken tap and? (4) way less likely? that you will snap a tap.?

?

On 12/13/20 7:55 PM, imranindiana via wrote:

is anyone familiar with accusize industrial tools? it is a canadian co out of toronto. i recently purchased two tap & drill sets metric and SAE. i went with them because they offered HSS at reasonable price.

?

?

i used the 1/2-13 tap first time today and it broke mid way in 1/2” CR1018 steel bar. yes, i did drill 27/64” hole with the drill that came with the tap. just curious, folks with metal knowhow, can you tell if this break shows a manufacturing defect?

?

?

i am sure they will send me a replacement tap but i am just wondering if i should return the set or both sets because i am not sure of the quality any more.

?

Imran


?

--

Dave & Marie Davies

318-219-7868