Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
  This went well over my expectations. I’m amazed by the clean cut.?
This is my very first cut. Board clamped to a backer board on the cross cut fence.?
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? I’m looking at a Felder F700 this weekend.? It is a 2007 model, 7.5 hp 3 phase, x-roll table, electronic lift and readout.? It comes with 2 extra 1.25” spindles, various tooling (door and cabinet) and has a Felder Vario 4 feeder.? He is asking $8,500 for the outfit.?
Can anyone advise on the price and what to look out for on a used F700?
Thanks ? Gil Fuqua Nashville
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Well done.? I would not expect the motor to be an issue, even if you need to rewind.? It isn't like the pancake design of the Oliver.? Just a large frame motor.? Many Tanny came with 1200 rpm motors and ran at 11000 fpm so hopefully this one will be slower.?
Those saws were balanced so well they could run at very high speeds if you can keep up with the feed rate.? DAve
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$775 plus 10% buyers premium.? We’ll see if it was a good deal once I see the motor run
?
?
Joe ask the rigger his cost.
I always like to block the base on the deck , you Weill need some donage 2x4 4x4 1 by?
Like Dave said block the table the trunnion is the week point.?
Important make sure ?all levers are clamped.
Personally I like the drop bed.?
And there are those among us that have one in there warehouse,,, Dave!!
Designing and building for 50 years
?More data.? The warehouse where it is located has forklifts and they will lift onto a trailer. I have a friend who can help me load there and by chance he is driving from LA to Phoenix that day.? I have two options.
1) I rent a drop deck trailer and drive from Phoenix to LA, spend the night, and on the next day the seller forklifts on the trailer.? When I get home unload with pallet jack.
2) Friend has access to a car trailer.? I fly out and we have the seller forklift onto the car trailer.? We would then drive it back with his Ford Expedition and then rent a forklift in Phoenix to unload.? I've never driven a forklift so there is that.
I know the rental drop deck trailer would have great tires etc.? Any idea on what a rigger would charge to unload?
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Re: NEW Parallel Fences from Lamb Tool Works!
Contact me direct and maybe we can figure something out. What machine is it? Looks similar to the Minimax/SCMI units we make, or even the Hammer, although they are smaller
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On Oct 7, 2020, at 6:49 AM, Larry < larry@...> wrote:
I wish I could figure out a way to adapt the parallel fence to my set-up!
<Sliding Table Saw Slot Measurements.jpg>
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Yes if the motor runs.? If not I understand the cost to rewind would be very high, couple thousand maybe
?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of Marlowe McGraw
Sent: Wednesday, October 7, 2020 8:21 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Won the bandsaw !
?
An excellent deal!!! Congratulations!
?
$775 plus 10% buyers premium.? We’ll see if it was a good deal once I see the motor run
?
?
Joe ask the rigger his cost.
I always like to block the base on the deck , you Weill need some donage 2x4 4x4 1 by?
Like Dave said block the table the trunnion is the week point.?
Important make sure ?all levers are clamped.
Personally I like the drop bed.?
And there are those among us that have one in there warehouse,,, Dave!!
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell
Designing and building for 50 years
?More data.? The warehouse where it is located has forklifts and they will lift onto a trailer. I have a friend who can help me load there and by chance he is driving from LA to
Phoenix that day.? I have two options.
1) I rent a drop deck trailer and drive from Phoenix to LA, spend the night, and on the next day the seller forklifts on the trailer.? When I get home unload with pallet jack.
2) Friend has access to a car trailer.? I fly out and we have the seller forklift onto the car trailer.? We would then drive it back with his Ford Expedition and then rent a forklift in Phoenix to unload.? I've never driven a forklift so there is that.
I know the rental drop deck trailer would have great tires etc.? Any idea on what a rigger would charge to unload?
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An excellent deal!!! Congratulations!
Marlowe McGraw?
$775 plus 10% buyers premium.? We’ll see if it was a good deal once I see the motor run
?
?
Joe ask the rigger his cost.
I always like to block the base on the deck , you Weill need some donage 2x4 4x4 1 by?
Like Dave said block the table the trunnion is the week point.?
Important make sure ?all levers are clamped.
Personally I like the drop bed.?
And there are those among us that have one in there warehouse,,, Dave!!
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell
Designing and building for 50 years
?More data.? The warehouse where it is located has forklifts and they will lift onto a trailer. I have a friend who can help me load there and by chance he is driving from LA to Phoenix that day.? I have two options.
1) I rent a drop deck trailer and drive from Phoenix to LA, spend the night, and on the next day the seller forklifts on the trailer.? When I get home unload with pallet jack.
2) Friend has access to a car trailer.? I fly out and we have the seller forklift onto the car trailer.? We would then drive it back with his Ford Expedition and then rent a forklift in Phoenix to unload.? I've never driven a forklift so there is that.
I know the rental drop deck trailer would have great tires etc.? Any idea on what a rigger would charge to unload?
|
$775 plus 10% buyers premium.? We’ll see if it was a good deal once I see the motor run
?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression
Sent: Monday, October 5, 2020 11:15 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Moving Tannewitz 36" bandaw.
?
Joe ask the rigger his cost.
I always like to block the base on the deck , you Weill need some donage 2x4 4x4 1 by?
Like Dave said block the table the trunnion is the week point.?
Important make sure ?all levers are clamped.
Personally I like the drop bed.?
And there are those among us that have one in there warehouse,,, Dave!!
Designing and building for 50 years
?More data.? The warehouse where it is located has forklifts and they will lift onto a trailer. I have a friend who can help me load there and by chance he is driving from LA to Phoenix that day.? I have two options.
1) I rent a drop deck trailer and drive from Phoenix to LA, spend the night, and on the next day the seller forklifts on the trailer.? When I get home unload with pallet jack.
2) Friend has access to a car trailer.? I fly out and we have the seller forklift onto the car trailer.? We would then drive it back with his Ford Expedition and then rent a forklift in Phoenix to unload.? I've never driven a forklift so there is that.
I know the rental drop deck trailer would have great tires etc.? Any idea on what a rigger would charge to unload?
|
Re: NEW Parallel Fences from Lamb Tool Works!
I wish I could figure out a way to adapt the parallel fence to my set-up! 
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Re: NEW Parallel Fences from Lamb Tool Works!
Very nice Brian, Would love to upgrade, but think I'll stick with the original. Cheers Eric -- Eric J. Smith? Trading as W.G. Joinery ABN# 24 079 587 520 03 5784 9258 0411 264 272
PO BOX 353? Broadford Victoria
3658 Australia
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On 10/5/20 12:43 PM, "jmkserv@... wrote: and the manual I got no manual? no instruction? no set up information absolutely? nothing at all for my saw or my JP. I chalked it up to them wanting? the customer to pay for a tech to do it all.
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NEW Parallel Fences from Lamb Tool Works!
Trying to make the best of our downtime from Covid, we redesigned the Parallel Fences to use a linear bearing and rail for the measuring rod. Parts just came back from anodize and we have some in stock for purchase. There is new pricing, some of the increase is due to the new design, but most is from increased costs on aluminum and anodize, both which have been steadily increasing over the years. The smoothness and ease of movement in greatly increased on the new design.
Best to go to the website for prices, we have the analog, DRO and can retrofit the new linear portion to older units. I’ll attach a couple photos of the Analog and DRO units, DRO happens to be P-channel and the Analog is a Hammer unit. If you have any questions, feel free to contact us direct.
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Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
Oh and one other clever idea is to use stock that is wider than necessary, let the tear out happen and then rip to the finished width. I dont know what step you are in your process however so this may not be possible.
Taylor Donsker
www.tdonsker.com
818.424.9046
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On Oct 6, 2020, at 8:38 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
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Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
interesting discussion around tear out.?compared to the other option,?the way michael shows the fence, intuitively seems to be less violent on exit. handwork is fine for few pieces but if doing a lot then it becomes time consuming.
i would use a backer board, a sharp scribe and have few extra pieces for added insurance. if things do not go well adjust plan.
imran?
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On Oct 6, 2020, at 10:49 AM, "jmkserv@... <jmkserv@...> wrote: ?
Bill don't forget many factors at work here. Type of material, size and diameter of the cutters, angle the cutter is going to exit wood. Also quality of cut you are trying to get. Taylor's suggestions covers many of these issues to get a superior cut. A shaper is like most things only as good as the operators experience and the many failures witnessed.?
-------- Original message -------- From: Bill Bélanger <Bllblngr@...> Date: 2020-10-06 9:54 a.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [FOG] Cutting mitered bridal joint
Your going to buy a shaper then use a chisel? Really?
Bill Belanger? score it with a marking knife. Cut it shy of the line and then chisel to the line.? Taylor Donsker 818.424.9046 On Oct 6, 2020, at 6:36 AM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
?
tear out prevention techniques? include? using tape,? A? backing
sacrificial board, and even leaving the piece to be cut oversize?
in width so as to simply rip off the tear out later.
Which way to present your work to the cutter?? I like your image
below because it? doesn't "Feel" as if it would? result in the
work being caught and hurled back at the operator but only?
experimentation can prove the theory. Different? species of lumber
may react differently too.
Which direction is the safest and/or best (regarding tear out) to
cut mitered bridal joints on the shaper? I will cut it in one go
with a tenon cutter. If I'd have to do this in two steps,, I'd
probably mess up some cuts due to the flipping and angle change
for the back side.
I need to cut this:
<dummyfile.0.part>
Should I angle the fence forward or backward 45 degrees? The image
below is what I mean with "forward". Feeding direction is down in
the image. The pieces are 400 mm long, so I'll have no problem
clamping them safely to the fence with a backer board. This is
probably the best way to minimise tear out, but I'd like to know
if this is an "unsafe on a shaper scenario". I realise that the
piece being sucked into the cutter is a potential danger. Clamping
is essential, and I'll also try to fit one of the Aigner fingers
between the cutters.
?
<dummyfile.1.part>
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Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
Right, I was referring to my skills as a chisel operator.
Bill Bélanger
On Tuesday, October 6, 2020, " jmkserv@... < jmkserv@...> wrote:
Bill don't forget many factors at work here. Type of material, size and diameter of the cutters, angle the cutter is going to exit wood. Also quality of cut you are trying to get. Taylor's suggestions covers many of these issues to get a superior cut. A shaper is like most things only as good as the operators experience and the many failures witnessed.?
-------- Original message -------- Date: 2020-10-06 9:54 a.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [FOG] Cutting mitered bridal joint
Your going to buy a shaper then use a chisel? Really?
Bill Belanger? score it with a marking knife. Cut it shy of the line and then chisel to the line.? Taylor Donsker 818.424.9046 On Oct 6, 2020, at 6:36 AM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
?
tear out prevention techniques? include? using tape,? A? backing
sacrificial board, and even leaving the piece to be cut oversize?
in width so as to simply rip off the tear out later.
Which way to present your work to the cutter?? I like your image
below because it? doesn't "Feel" as if it would? result in the
work being caught and hurled back at the operator but only?
experimentation can prove the theory. Different? species of lumber
may react differently too.
Which direction is the safest and/or best (regarding tear out) to
cut mitered bridal joints on the shaper? I will cut it in one go
with a tenon cutter. If I'd have to do this in two steps,, I'd
probably mess up some cuts due to the flipping and angle change
for the back side.
I need to cut this:
<dummyfile.0.part>
Should I angle the fence forward or backward 45 degrees? The image
below is what I mean with "forward". Feeding direction is down in
the image. The pieces are 400 mm long, so I'll have no problem
clamping them safely to the fence with a backer board. This is
probably the best way to minimise tear out, but I'd like to know
if this is an "unsafe on a shaper scenario". I realise that the
piece being sucked into the cutter is a potential danger. Clamping
is essential, and I'll also try to fit one of the Aigner fingers
between the cutters.
?
<dummyfile.1.part>
|
Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
Bill don't forget many factors at work here. Type of material, size and diameter of the cutters, angle the cutter is going to exit wood. Also quality of cut you are trying to get. Taylor's suggestions covers many of these issues to get a superior cut. A shaper is like most things only as good as the operators experience and the many failures witnessed.?
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Show quoted text
-------- Original message -------- From: Bill Bélanger <Bllblngr@...> Date: 2020-10-06 9:54 a.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [FOG] Cutting mitered bridal joint
Your going to buy a shaper then use a chisel? Really?
Bill Belanger? score it with a marking knife. Cut it shy of the line and then chisel to the line.? Taylor Donsker 818.424.9046 On Oct 6, 2020, at 6:36 AM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
?
tear out prevention techniques? include? using tape,? A? backing
sacrificial board, and even leaving the piece to be cut oversize?
in width so as to simply rip off the tear out later.
Which way to present your work to the cutter?? I like your image
below because it? doesn't "Feel" as if it would? result in the
work being caught and hurled back at the operator but only?
experimentation can prove the theory. Different? species of lumber
may react differently too.
Which direction is the safest and/or best (regarding tear out) to
cut mitered bridal joints on the shaper? I will cut it in one go
with a tenon cutter. If I'd have to do this in two steps,, I'd
probably mess up some cuts due to the flipping and angle change
for the back side.
I need to cut this:
<dummyfile.0.part>
Should I angle the fence forward or backward 45 degrees? The image
below is what I mean with "forward". Feeding direction is down in
the image. The pieces are 400 mm long, so I'll have no problem
clamping them safely to the fence with a backer board. This is
probably the best way to minimise tear out, but I'd like to know
if this is an "unsafe on a shaper scenario". I realise that the
piece being sucked into the cutter is a potential danger. Clamping
is essential, and I'll also try to fit one of the Aigner fingers
between the cutters.
?
<dummyfile.1.part>
|
Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
He asked to reduce tear out and the shaper will certainly give it a beating. You could use a backer board to help a bit i suppose but still not as clean as a sharp chisel Taylor Donsker www.tdonsker.com 818.424.9046
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Show quoted text
On Oct 6, 2020, at 6:54 AM, Bill Bélanger <Bllblngr@...> wrote:
? Your going to buy a shaper then use a chisel? Really?
Bill Belanger? score it with a marking knife. Cut it shy of the line and then chisel to the line.? Taylor Donsker 818.424.9046 On Oct 6, 2020, at 6:36 AM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
?
tear out prevention techniques? include? using tape,? A? backing
sacrificial board, and even leaving the piece to be cut oversize?
in width so as to simply rip off the tear out later.
Which way to present your work to the cutter?? I like your image
below because it? doesn't "Feel" as if it would? result in the
work being caught and hurled back at the operator but only?
experimentation can prove the theory. Different? species of lumber
may react differently too.
Which direction is the safest and/or best (regarding tear out) to
cut mitered bridal joints on the shaper? I will cut it in one go
with a tenon cutter. If I'd have to do this in two steps,, I'd
probably mess up some cuts due to the flipping and angle change
for the back side.
I need to cut this:
<dummyfile.0.part>
Should I angle the fence forward or backward 45 degrees? The image
below is what I mean with "forward". Feeding direction is down in
the image. The pieces are 400 mm long, so I'll have no problem
clamping them safely to the fence with a backer board. This is
probably the best way to minimise tear out, but I'd like to know
if this is an "unsafe on a shaper scenario". I realise that the
piece being sucked into the cutter is a potential danger. Clamping
is essential, and I'll also try to fit one of the Aigner fingers
between the cutters.
?
<dummyfile.1.part>
|
Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
Your going to buy a shaper then use a chisel? Really?
Bill Belanger?
score it with a marking knife. Cut it shy of the line and then chisel to the line.? Taylor Donsker 818.424.9046 On Oct 6, 2020, at 6:36 AM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
?
tear out prevention techniques? include? using tape,? A? backing
sacrificial board, and even leaving the piece to be cut oversize?
in width so as to simply rip off the tear out later.
Which way to present your work to the cutter?? I like your image
below because it? doesn't "Feel" as if it would? result in the
work being caught and hurled back at the operator but only?
experimentation can prove the theory. Different? species of lumber
may react differently too.
Which direction is the safest and/or best (regarding tear out) to
cut mitered bridal joints on the shaper? I will cut it in one go
with a tenon cutter. If I'd have to do this in two steps,, I'd
probably mess up some cuts due to the flipping and angle change
for the back side.
I need to cut this:
<dummyfile.0.part>
Should I angle the fence forward or backward 45 degrees? The image
below is what I mean with "forward". Feeding direction is down in
the image. The pieces are 400 mm long, so I'll have no problem
clamping them safely to the fence with a backer board. This is
probably the best way to minimise tear out, but I'd like to know
if this is an "unsafe on a shaper scenario". I realise that the
piece being sucked into the cutter is a potential danger. Clamping
is essential, and I'll also try to fit one of the Aigner fingers
between the cutters.
?
<dummyfile.1.part>
|
Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
score it with a marking knife. Cut it shy of the line and then chisel to the line.? Taylor Donsker www.tdonsker.com 818.424.9046
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Oct 6, 2020, at 6:36 AM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
?
tear out prevention techniques? include? using tape,? A? backing
sacrificial board, and even leaving the piece to be cut oversize?
in width so as to simply rip off the tear out later.
Which way to present your work to the cutter?? I like your image
below because it? doesn't "Feel" as if it would? result in the
work being caught and hurled back at the operator but only?
experimentation can prove the theory. Different? species of lumber
may react differently too.
Which direction is the safest and/or best (regarding tear out) to
cut mitered bridal joints on the shaper? I will cut it in one go
with a tenon cutter. If I'd have to do this in two steps,, I'd
probably mess up some cuts due to the flipping and angle change
for the back side.
I need to cut this:
<dummyfile.0.part>
Should I angle the fence forward or backward 45 degrees? The image
below is what I mean with "forward". Feeding direction is down in
the image. The pieces are 400 mm long, so I'll have no problem
clamping them safely to the fence with a backer board. This is
probably the best way to minimise tear out, but I'd like to know
if this is an "unsafe on a shaper scenario". I realise that the
piece being sucked into the cutter is a potential danger. Clamping
is essential, and I'll also try to fit one of the Aigner fingers
between the cutters.
?
<dummyfile.1.part>
|
Re: Cutting mitered bridal joint
tear out prevention techniques? include? using tape,? A? backing
sacrificial board, and even leaving the piece to be cut oversize?
in width so as to simply rip off the tear out later.
Which way to present your work to the cutter?? I like your image
below because it? doesn't "Feel" as if it would? result in the
work being caught and hurled back at the operator but only?
experimentation can prove the theory. Different? species of lumber
may react differently too.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Which direction is the safest and/or best (regarding tear out) to
cut mitered bridal joints on the shaper? I will cut it in one go
with a tenon cutter. If I'd have to do this in two steps,, I'd
probably mess up some cuts due to the flipping and angle change
for the back side.
I need to cut this:
Should I angle the fence forward or backward 45 degrees? The image
below is what I mean with "forward". Feeding direction is down in
the image. The pieces are 400 mm long, so I'll have no problem
clamping them safely to the fence with a backer board. This is
probably the best way to minimise tear out, but I'd like to know
if this is an "unsafe on a shaper scenario". I realise that the
piece being sucked into the cutter is a potential danger. Clamping
is essential, and I'll also try to fit one of the Aigner fingers
between the cutters.
?
|
Re: tenoning cutter recommendations?
Bird,
while these were used i bought strap hinges for shop doors from here:
and buy weatherstripping from here:
Mac recommended 20 yrs ago ......
imran
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On Oct 5, 2020, at 11:11 PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote: ? Bird,
yes around 39” wide and 101” tall.
funny that door design was dictated by these used hinges i picked up for $25. by design i mean i only had 2 hinges per door if i had 3 i likely would have chosen different proportions and top rail would not be as wide.
i had paid nearly a grand for the 6 strap hinges for my shop’s main door 20 yrs prior (which is composed of two 9’ x 4.5’ panels) so i jumped at the opportunity, when i saw these for $25. however, i presume they came off a freezer door as the straps were 2” offset, i.e. had i used them as they were the face of the door would be 2” out of the trim you see around. i had a bend put in the strap to create zero offset and painted them black.
cannot wait to start on my two 12’x6’ panels for the largest opening of this storage room. i have 8 strap hinges custom made locally for that door.
imran
On Oct 5, 2020, at 9:33 PM, Bird Cupps <birdc@...> wrote:
? Is each door then 3.25+ feet? (Making sure I understand the dimensions.) What was your source for the hinges?
Shawn,
this door is over 8’ tall and 6.5’ wide.
<image0.jpeg>
max tenon is 1”, here is the rail & stile joinery detail: <image1.jpeg>
the joinery is augmented by floating tenons <image2.jpeg>
so i milled no big traditional tenons. industry uses mostly dowel construction. something to consider.
imran? ? Hi all, I'm looking for a new cutter option for cutting 2 1/4" long tenons with clean, square shoulders, on a F900 sliding shaper, 1 1/4" spindle. Most of the time, the material is 1 3/4" thick mahogany with a 5/8" thick tenon. I'm thinking stacking two insert groovers with a spacer between, or an appropriate adjustable groover. Anybody have any recommendations for cutters? Rangate's adjustable groover looks like a great option, but I don't think it'll cut a tenon longer than 1 1/2", correct? These are for mortise and tenon entry door rails, and I've always done at least 2 1/4" length. Is 1 1/2" long enough for exterior door construction? Thanks for any guidance. Shawn
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Joe Jensen
Larry
imran
Bill Belanger