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Re: tenoning cutter recommendations?
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýThanks Shawn. Is that the oscillating chisel mortiser? They are awesome, only seen videos. ? Your got to give what clients want/need. Check this link out ¨C I did not see any large rebate heads but they have a good filter to find items: ? I assume you are limited to 220mm dia. They are missing cutting depth info but price is very reasonable. Exchange rate is 1.3. I just got a heavy dado from them and shipping was ?55 (~$70). It arrived in 4 days. For details call them or email Louis Charnaud?(louis@...). If you order make sure your card does not have foreign exchange fee. It is less of a problem now a days but you never know. ? Definitely, call rangate also. I do not have anything from them but folks here are super happy with them. ? Imran ? From: [email protected] On Behalf Of Shawn Kammerer via groups.io
Sent: Monday, October 05, 2020 5:14 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [FOG] tenoning cutter recommendations? ? Thanks Imran, nice work. I mostly do traditional mortise and tenon doors and windows, but sometimes do floating tenon, depending on the situation. Most of my clients are in arts-and-crafts or Victorian homes, and the traditional approach fits well in those situations. My sash cutters give a 1 1/2" tenon length, so mortise and tenon sashes are quick and easy, and my mortiser is a 2,000 pound cast iron beast, hold the pedal down and watch is chop out a 5/8" mortise without a second thought. Two rebate cutters from Felder would be perfect for door rail tenons, but they're out of stock, one to two month lead time. The search continues... ? Shawn ? ? On Monday, October 5, 2020, 01:58:46 PM PDT, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote: ? ? Shawn, ? this door is over 8¡¯ tall and 6.5¡¯ wide. ? ? max tenon is 1¡±, here is the rail & stile joinery detail: ? the joinery is augmented by floating tenons ? so i milled no big traditional tenons. industry uses mostly dowel construction. something to consider. ? imran?
? Hi all, I'm looking for a new cutter option for cutting 2 1/4" long tenons with clean, square shoulders, on a F900 sliding shaper, 1 1/4" spindle. Most of the time, the material is 1 3/4" thick mahogany with a 5/8" thick tenon. I'm thinking stacking two insert groovers with a spacer between, or an appropriate adjustable groover. Anybody have any recommendations for cutters? Rangate's adjustable groover looks like a great option, but I don't think it'll cut a tenon longer than 1 1/2", correct? These are for mortise and tenon entry door rails, and I've always done at least 2 1/4" length. Is 1 1/2" long enough for exterior door construction? Thanks for any guidance. Shawn |
Re: tenoning cutter recommendations?
Thanks Imran, nice work. I mostly do traditional mortise and tenon doors and windows, but sometimes do floating tenon, depending on the situation. Most of my clients are in arts-and-crafts or Victorian homes, and the traditional approach fits well in those situations. My sash cutters give a 1 1/2" tenon length, so mortise and tenon sashes are quick and easy, and my mortiser is a 2,000 pound cast iron beast, hold the pedal down and watch is chop out a 5/8" mortise without a second thought. Two rebate cutters from Felder would be perfect for door rail tenons, but they're out of stock, one to two month lead time. The search continues... Shawn
On Monday, October 5, 2020, 01:58:46 PM PDT, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Shawn, this door is over 8¡¯ tall and 6.5¡¯ wide. max tenon is 1¡±, here is the rail & stile joinery detail: the joinery is augmented by floating tenons so i milled no big traditional tenons. industry uses mostly dowel construction. something to consider. imran? On Oct 5, 2020, at 3:51 PM, Shawn Kammerer via groups.io <shawnkammerer@...> wrote:
?
Hi all, I'm looking for a new cutter option for cutting 2 1/4" long tenons with clean, square shoulders, on a F900 sliding shaper, 1 1/4" spindle. Most of the time, the material is 1 3/4" thick mahogany with a 5/8" thick tenon. I'm thinking stacking two insert groovers with a spacer between, or an appropriate adjustable groover. Anybody have any recommendations for cutters? Rangate's adjustable groover looks like a great option, but I don't think it'll cut a tenon longer than 1 1/2", correct? These are for mortise and tenon entry door rails, and I've always done at least 2 1/4" length. Is 1 1/2" long enough for exterior door construction? Thanks for any guidance. Shawn |
Re: tenoning cutter recommendations?
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýShawn, this door is over 8¡¯ tall and 6.5¡¯ wide. max tenon is 1¡±, here is the rail & stile joinery detail: the joinery is augmented by floating tenons so i milled no big traditional tenons. industry uses mostly dowel construction. something to consider. imran? On Oct 5, 2020, at 3:51 PM, Shawn Kammerer via groups.io <shawnkammerer@...> wrote:
? Hi all, I'm looking for a new cutter option for cutting 2 1/4" long tenons with clean, square shoulders, on a F900 sliding shaper, 1 1/4" spindle. Most of the time, the material is 1 3/4" thick mahogany with a 5/8" thick tenon. I'm thinking stacking two insert groovers with a spacer between, or an appropriate adjustable groover. Anybody have any recommendations for cutters? Rangate's adjustable groover looks like a great option, but I don't think it'll cut a tenon longer than 1 1/2", correct? These are for mortise and tenon entry door rails, and I've always done at least 2 1/4" length. Is 1 1/2" long enough for exterior door construction? Thanks for any guidance. Shawn |
Re: tenoning cutter recommendations?
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýthis is not your only option but a set of 220mm rebate heads will do nearly 3¡± tenon. imran? On Oct 5, 2020, at 3:51 PM, Shawn Kammerer via groups.io <shawnkammerer@...> wrote:
? Hi all, I'm looking for a new cutter option for cutting 2 1/4" long tenons with clean, square shoulders, on a F900 sliding shaper, 1 1/4" spindle. Most of the time, the material is 1 3/4" thick mahogany with a 5/8" thick tenon. I'm thinking stacking two insert groovers with a spacer between, or an appropriate adjustable groover. Anybody have any recommendations for cutters? Rangate's adjustable groover looks like a great option, but I don't think it'll cut a tenon longer than 1 1/2", correct? These are for mortise and tenon entry door rails, and I've always done at least 2 1/4" length. Is 1 1/2" long enough for exterior door construction? Thanks for any guidance. Shawn |
Re: A331 planer snipe, Please help!
#hammer
#jointerplaner
If you don't find out anything via Cliff's ideas, you might want to tighten up the spring on both infeed and outfeed rollers.? Marlowe McGraw? On Mon, Oct 5, 2020, 2:30 PM Toni <spizzirri.antoni@...> wrote: Thanks Jerry! |
tenoning cutter recommendations?
Hi all, I'm looking for a new cutter option for cutting 2 1/4" long tenons with clean, square shoulders, on a F900 sliding shaper, 1 1/4" spindle. Most of the time, the material is 1 3/4" thick mahogany with a 5/8" thick tenon. I'm thinking stacking two insert groovers with a spacer between, or an appropriate adjustable groover. Anybody have any recommendations for cutters? Rangate's adjustable groover looks like a great option, but I don't think it'll cut a tenon longer than 1 1/2", correct? These are for mortise and tenon entry door rails, and I've always done at least 2 1/4" length. Is 1 1/2" long enough for exterior door construction? Thanks for any guidance. Shawn |
Re: Moving Tannewitz 36" bandaw.
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýJoe ask the rigger his cost.I always like to block the base on the deck , you Weill need some donage 2x4 4x4 1 by? Like Dave said block the table the trunnion is the week point.? Important make sure ?all levers are clamped. Personally I like the drop bed.? And there are those among us that have one in there warehouse,,, Dave!! martin/campshure/co/llc Designing and building for 50 years On Oct 5, 2020, at 12:53 PM, Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote:
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Re: Moving Tannewitz 36" bandaw.
More data.? The warehouse where it is located has forklifts and they will lift onto a trailer. I have a friend who can help me load there and by chance he is driving from LA to Phoenix that day.? I have two options.
1) I rent a drop deck trailer and drive from Phoenix to LA, spend the night, and on the next day the seller forklifts on the trailer.? When I get home unload with pallet jack. 2) Friend has access to a car trailer.? I fly out and we have the seller forklift onto the car trailer.? We would then drive it back with his Ford Expedition and then rent a forklift in Phoenix to unload.? I've never driven a forklift so there is that. I know the rental drop deck trailer would have great tires etc.? Any idea on what a rigger would charge to unload? |
Re: A331 planer snipe, Please help!
#hammer
#jointerplaner
There is a A3-31 manual in the files section.
Start on page 146 for snipe test and adjustments. /g/felderownersgroup/files/Manuals%20&%20Drawings/Hammer%20Machine%20Setup%20Guide.pdf -- Jerry P Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans. "You can observe a lot by watching."? Yogi Berra |
Re: A331 planer snipe, Please help!
#hammer
#jointerplaner
My first J/P was a 2008 A3-31 and the manual had a good section on how to adjust for planer snipe. I don't know if this is still in the newer manuals and I have long since upgraded. Perhaps if someone has one of the older manuals they could post the adjustments section. On Mon, Oct 5, 2020 at 12:28 PM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
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John Kee JMK Services |
Re: A331 planer snipe, Please help!
#hammer
#jointerplaner
Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq.
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýSorry that didn't help.?? Maybe try looking for anything that
might not be bolted firmly. Snipe is the result of movement.? It
can be less than obvious? where the movement? originates.? Maybe
take the sheet metal off the sides of the cutter head and check
the bolts holding things in place.? Also? look to the table lock
make sure it is really locking the table.?? On 10/5/20 9:43 AM, Toni wrote:
Hey Cliff, |
Re: Moving Tannewitz 36" bandaw.
¿ªÔÆÌåÓý
Joe, you can leave the table on but block it underneath so the trunnions don't carry much weight.? Don't strap over the table but under it.? If you strap all four corners low so it can't move, and four straps under the table and around the C frame, you will
be good.? If you find a need, add a couple more where it will benefit.? You will see what makes sense when rigging it up.? Dave
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...>
Sent: Monday, October 5, 2020 12:39 AM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [FOG] Moving Tannewitz 36" bandaw. ?
Direct Drive machine which is my preference.? Not sure how to get help even removing the table. Maybe hire a rigger to load I there? ?
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of
Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression ? Hi Joe? I would not rely on the band clamps they will more than likely fail.? Nice saw a classic . Belt or direct drive? Take table and any other heavy by stuff .? The table is very heavy 200 # at least . Bring a 1/4¡±thick by at least 2x2 plate to go up the bump . You can do a lot with a pallet jack if you know how to use them. Mac,,, ? ?
martin/campshure/co/llc Designing and building for 50 years
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Re: A331 planer snipe, Please help!
#hammer
#jointerplaner
Hey Cliff,
I always support my boards as the are fed through and exiting the planer. This doesn't seem to resolve the snipe I am getting. Thanks for your input? |
Re: Moving Tannewitz 36" bandaw.
If you had a HF lifting table you could slide the saw's table onto the HF table and then drop it down. Dave Davies On Mon, Oct 5, 2020 at 6:50 AM Marlowe McGraw <marlomcgraw@...> wrote:
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Dave & Marie Davies 318-219-7868 |
Re: Quickie Shop electrical questions
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýAlways go bigger if you can , you can run a lot of hp on 100 amp service . I run a planer?And dust collector 22 hp and compressor kicks in at 5 ?the 20 lites don¡¯t blink. martin/campshure/co/llc Designing and building for 50 years On Oct 4, 2020, at 6:06 PM, tom@... wrote:
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Re: Moving Tannewitz 36" bandaw.ou r
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýJoe Good luck hope u are the winning bid.That is a?Nice looking saw Tannewitz was known for fine saws. Never owned one. I have had two intra-goal ?motor saws They are Oliver¡¯s and the motors were jamb packed with saw dust. Mac,, martin/campshure/co/llc Designing and building for 50 years On Oct 5, 2020, at 6:50 AM, Marlowe McGraw <marlomcgraw@...> wrote:
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Re: Moving Tannewitz 36" bandaw.
I don't know if Tannewitz had a lifting ring at the top of the cast iron C-arm but I would check as a liftpoint if you end up using something overhead to remove from the pallet.? If you can get heavy ratchet straps in an X pattern that go under the pallet at the feet of the saw that should help stabilize. You can check tightness in route Like Mac said, the band straps on it now will likely loosen ( boards often lift up or break).? The good news is that it looks like a better than average pallet.? Marlowe McGraw? On Sun, Oct 4, 2020, 11:39 PM Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote:
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Re: Moving Tannewitz 36" bandaw.
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýDirect Drive machine which is my preference.? Not sure how to get help even removing the table. Maybe hire a rigger to load I there? ? From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression
Sent: Sunday, October 4, 2020 6:05 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [FOG] Moving Tannewitz 36" bandaw. ? Hi Joe? I would not rely on the band clamps they will more than likely fail.? Nice saw a classic . Belt or direct drive? Take table and any other heavy by stuff .? The table is very heavy 200 # at least . Bring a 1/4¡±thick by at least 2x2 plate to go up the bump . You can do a lot with a pallet jack if you know how to use them. Mac,,, ? ? martin/campshure/co/llc Designing and building for 50 years
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