Re: I did something stupid!
you ?need to make sure T 3 generated leg is not Hook to control circuit the gray lead I think ?You also ?want to make sure the AR is I think X series or voltage sensitive
Designing and building for 47 years
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On Feb 17, 2020, at 9:07 PM, Michael Glaser <1michaelglaser1@...> wrote:
?Well...
Electrician came, installed phase converter. It is an American Rotary PL- 20 which will be connected to the 940 S.
Voltage read 243,248,249.?
The saw is still on the crate, I literally just unloaded it and didn't have time to off load the machine yet. All the "goodies" around the main saw are off - only the saw remains.
We plugged it into the saw, just to make sure the panel lit up and the machine was getting "power".
It lit up and was getting power... and, I just couldn't resist touching the power drive for height. I turned the height up until the riving knife was exposed. Then... the panel went blank.?
Machine won't turn on.
So, I read through some of the manual and i know there is a motor switch on the back by the main (black nub inside clear dome)
But, I did not want to touch anything... First order of business.. I guess is to unload it fully off the crate :D
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Temporary until the next upgrade, I guess :)
Definitely CNC, no way I'd route all that by hand. If anyone would like the DXF, just email me.?
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Re: I did something stupid!
Michael,
Welcome to my world, As I know nothing about this and less everyday, I know There are people here that can get you through this, or a call to Felder as a second. My guess is all is well and you tripped something. At least you dont have a shaper the runs in the correct direction for months and one day starts running backwards.
Glen
Big Tree Woodworking
P.O. Box 257 Avery Ca 95224
Well...
Electrician came, installed phase converter. It is an American Rotary PL- 20 which will be connected to the 940 S.
Voltage read 243,248,249.?
The saw is still on the crate, I literally just unloaded it and didn't have time to off load the machine yet. All the "goodies" around the main saw are off - only the saw remains.
We plugged it into the saw, just to make sure the panel lit up and the machine was getting "power".
It lit up and was getting power... and, I just couldn't resist touching the power drive for height. I turned the height up until the riving knife was exposed. Then... the panel went blank.?
Machine won't turn on.
So, I read through some of the manual and i know there is a motor switch on the back by the main (black nub inside clear dome)
But, I did not want to touch anything... First order of business.. I guess is to unload it fully off the crate :D
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Glen,? Many people use these drawer front adjusters. I've never tried them myself. I use truss head screws, 1 1/8" long. I predrill two holes slightly small for the screws, drive them in just so the point is poking through. Then I use spacers to align the front and push so the points make an indentation. I then open the drawer and drive the screws in. I add two more and adjust if necessary.
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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 Just did some drawers today with em ;D I still highly recommend R2 Zip 1-3/4" screws for Assembly though! Not sure about those wurth screws, but I know I don't want screws that go through a nickel going within 1-1/2" of a frameless cabinet face and risk splitting it. I've used 1-3/4" #6 zip on MDF, Meleamine, Plywood, etc. Zero issues - ever.? Do the assy screws come in #6? EDIT: The oversized hole (5/8) is for adjustment (obviously). But it is used typically afterwards. Make sure the screw is center when you drive it in. It comes in handy with a hole that size because sometimes a heavier drawer will sag when fully closed. Especially with newer kitchens that are mainly BIG, WIDE, DEEP drawers! People are putting heavy food processors in them, etc. I always have to go back and adjust. Lately, I have been asking the client first what they plan on using where. Then just subtract/add couple mm from my drawer face jig to account for the weight.
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Well...
Electrician came, installed phase converter. It is an American Rotary PL- 20 which will be connected to the 940 S.
Voltage read 243,248,249.?
The saw is still on the crate, I literally just unloaded it and didn't have time to off load the machine yet. All the "goodies" around the main saw are off - only the saw remains.
We plugged it into the saw, just to make sure the panel lit up and the machine was getting "power".
It lit up and was getting power... and, I just couldn't resist touching the power drive for height. I turned the height up until the riving knife was exposed. Then... the panel went blank.?
Machine won't turn on.
So, I read through some of the manual and i know there is a motor switch on the back by the main (black nub inside clear dome)
But, I did not want to touch anything... First order of business.. I guess is to unload it fully off the crate :D
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Thanks. I did not realize it was being sold under another name here.?
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On Feb 17, 2020, at 6:46 PM, mac campshure <mac512002@...> wrote:
? Like I mentioned earlier I have the Hebor / Alder since 1990 ihave 240 volt unit ?simple and heavy duty same as Hoffman today. Designing and building for 47 years On Feb 17, 2020, at 1:52 PM, Michael Todrin <michaeltodrin@...> wrote:
?Does anyone have any experience with the Hoffman lipping planer?
Michael
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When i did production cabinetry I did it a few different ways one was with an oversized hole and washer screw the zipped in 2-4 screws after adjustment to lock it in place. I had also Shot pin nails from the inside of the drawer then screwed working my way up from the bottom with the last drawer double sticked then pined and screwed.? Regards, Mark
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On Feb 17, 2020, at 8:41 PM, Glen Christensen <grchris1966@...> wrote:
?Hi all, I want to thank everyone on the input on what screws to use. after your thoughts and what I read, Straight slot is the.... no never mind.
I have decided on GRK for the BS projects i do and the fact That I have a lot of them.
Going with David suggestion on Wurth assy plus for boxes.
?And Michael suggestion on Hafele for the drawer fronts.
I try this approach as see how it goes.?
On drawer slides? i am going to give the bottom mounts a try, Little more money. But this is what I found.
on the shitty side mounts I got and used, I spent a lot of time using spacers to get the fronts as close as I could. Now moving my stuff in to the drawers I have movement in the slides to throw off my alignment. I actually thought about preloading the drawers with some bricks before hand but didn't.
I was thinking about trying something I am against but... When you buy premade shit cabs from HD or Blows, the drawer box hole is oversize so you can adjust the front.
Not my way but anybody do it this way ?
Thanks? for all your help as always
Glen? ?
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Sang,
Looks really good!!!??
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Sang, Temporary??? That is nice and well done for temporary in my book. CNC or are you just that good. Glen
Big Tree Woodworking
P.O. Box 257 Avery Ca 95224
On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 5:40 PM Sang Luu < sangluu@...> wrote: I got impatient, so made a temporary arm until I decide on a more permanent solution:
    
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Hi all, I want to thank everyone on the input on what screws to use. after your thoughts and what I read, Straight slot is the.... no never mind.
I have decided on GRK for the BS projects i do and the fact That I have a lot of them.
Going with David suggestion on Wurth assy plus for boxes.
?And Michael suggestion on Hafele for the drawer fronts.
I try this approach as see how it goes.?
On drawer slides? i am going to give the bottom mounts a try, Little more money. But this is what I found.
on the shitty side mounts I got and used, I spent a lot of time using spacers to get the fronts as close as I could. Now moving my stuff in to the drawers I have movement in the slides to throw off my alignment. I actually thought about preloading the drawers with some bricks before hand but didn't.
I was thinking about trying something I am against but... When you buy premade shit cabs from HD or Blows, the drawer box hole is oversize so you can adjust the front.
Not my way but anybody do it this way ?
Thanks? for all your help as always
Glen? ?
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Re: Router Bushing Adapter
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Well I'll bite,?
Being that i tend to buy stuff I really don't need or do not even understand what its for, Latter in this case. I will bid 1 miiiiiiilllllion dollars. using my currency converter I see 1 miiiiiiilllllion is equal to 1.03 US by my math.?
Glen?
Big Tree Woodworking?
P.O. Box 257 Avery Ca 95224
On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 5:00 PM imranindiana via Groups.Io <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Okay, I will sell mine for half that ....
Imran On Feb 18, 2020, at 5:52 AM, bacchus6015 <dohertyj@...> wrote:
?The starting bid is 1 miiiiiiilllllion dollars!
Joe in New Orleans ? $1.02
On Feb 17, 2020, at 3:07 PM, Michael Garrison Stuber < mtgstuber@...> wrote:
$1.01 :)
On 2/17/2020 3:05 PM, David Davies wrote:
On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 4:58 PM bacchus6015 < dohertyj@...> wrote: I have an unused David Best router insert kit for a 700 series.
Let the bidding begin!
Joe in New Orleans On Feb 17, 2020, at 3:54 PM, Tim Trefren <ttrefren@...> wrote:
?Thanks Imran. I was asking specifically about the insert portion as the PDF made it seem like you could purchase that off the shelf. I did read some old threads here that said David Best used to have them manufactured from phenolic but was hoping there would be a current commercially available source.
--?
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
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Re: Router Bushing Adapter
Well I'll bite,
Being that i tend to buy stuff I really don't need or do not even understand what its for, Latter in this case. I will bid
1 miiiiiiilllllion dollars. using my currency converter I see
1 miiiiiiilllllion is equal to 1.03 US by my math.
Glen
Big Tree Woodworking
P.O. Box 257 Avery Ca 95224
On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 5:00 PM imranindiana via Groups.Io <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Okay, I will sell mine for half that ....
Imran On Feb 18, 2020, at 5:52 AM, bacchus6015 <dohertyj@...> wrote:
?The starting bid is 1 miiiiiiilllllion dollars!
Joe in New Orleans ? $1.02
On Feb 17, 2020, at 3:07 PM, Michael Garrison Stuber < mtgstuber@...> wrote:
$1.01 :)
On 2/17/2020 3:05 PM, David Davies
wrote:
On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 4:58
PM bacchus6015 < dohertyj@...> wrote:
I have an unused David Best router insert kit
for a 700 series.
Let the bidding begin!
Joe in New Orleans
On Feb 17, 2020, at 3:54 PM, Tim
Trefren <ttrefren@...>
wrote:
?Thanks Imran. I was asking specifically
about the insert portion as the PDF made it seem like
you could purchase that off the shelf. I did read some
old threads here that said David Best used to have
them manufactured from phenolic but was hoping there
would be a current commercially available source.
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
|
Re: Router Bushing Adapter
Okay, I will sell mine for half that ....
Imran On Feb 18, 2020, at 5:52 AM, bacchus6015 <dohertyj@...> wrote:
? The starting bid is 1 miiiiiiilllllion dollars!
Joe in New Orleans On Feb 17, 2020, at 6:43 PM, "david@..." <david@...> wrote:
? $1.02
On Feb 17, 2020, at 3:07 PM, Michael Garrison Stuber < mtgstuber@...> wrote:
$1.01 :)
On 2/17/2020 3:05 PM, David Davies
wrote:
On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 4:58
PM bacchus6015 < dohertyj@...> wrote:
I have an unused David Best router insert kit
for a 700 series.
Let the bidding begin!
Joe in New Orleans
On Feb 17, 2020, at 3:54 PM, Tim
Trefren <ttrefren@...>
wrote:
?Thanks Imran. I was asking specifically
about the insert portion as the PDF made it seem like
you could purchase that off the shelf. I did read some
old threads here that said David Best used to have
them manufactured from phenolic but was hoping there
would be a current commercially available source.
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
|
Re: Router Bushing Adapter
The starting bid is 1 miiiiiiilllllion dollars!
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Show quoted text
On Feb 17, 2020, at 6:43 PM, "david@..." <david@...> wrote:
? $1.02
On Feb 17, 2020, at 3:07 PM, Michael Garrison Stuber < mtgstuber@...> wrote:
$1.01 :)
On 2/17/2020 3:05 PM, David Davies
wrote:
On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 4:58
PM bacchus6015 < dohertyj@...> wrote:
I have an unused David Best router insert kit
for a 700 series.
Let the bidding begin!
Joe in New Orleans
On Feb 17, 2020, at 3:54 PM, Tim
Trefren <ttrefren@...>
wrote:
?Thanks Imran. I was asking specifically
about the insert portion as the PDF made it seem like
you could purchase that off the shelf. I did read some
old threads here that said David Best used to have
them manufactured from phenolic but was hoping there
would be a current commercially available source.
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
|
Re: Router Bushing Adapter
Tim, Certainly, you were not wrong to think that the product is currently available for sale. I should have mentioned it in my original post.
Imran On Feb 18, 2020, at 1:54 AM, Tim Trefren <ttrefren@...> wrote:
?Thanks Imran. I was asking specifically about the insert portion as the PDF made it seem like you could purchase that off the shelf. I did read some old threads here that said David Best used to have them manufactured from phenolic but was hoping there would be a current commercially available source.
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I've used the Hoffmann, sold here in the US as Adler if I'm not mistaken. It's a good tool, also expensive. I have the Virutex and it's quite good despite being half the cost of it's competitors. My shop made offset base for a Bosch Colt still gets a surprising amount use as well does my Veritas low angle block plane. If I've just got a few pieces to trim, the plane is always my go to. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Re: Felder BF 6 jointer table setup
You are getting some errors on your decimal points going from inch to metric there. I try to set my knives to where they all run within .001 or so, .002” is ok, but .001” would be better. I also used a low strength loctiite or even better a product called vibratite on the set screws, so they stay where you put them once adjusted.
As for measuring, I use the indicator holders we make and sell…. looks like Wood magazine copied my design somewhat.
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So I think I have figured out how to set the table now. I think I will upload a few photos later for future reference. I got the outfeed parallel to within 0.05 m.m (0.02") of the cutter head surface (not the knives that I treat separaretly) which I guess is as good as I can get it.? Now I am on to the cutter knives.
- What tolerance do you aim for around the circumference of the knives? That is, how round do you aim for your cutter circumference to be? I have a textbook that says that the roundness should be within 0.005 m.m (0.002") but I reckon that is practically hard to achieve? Especially since the adjustment screws are regular M6, and those are quiet coarse.?
Currently I have around 0.2 m.m (0.08")? though which should be way to much?
- Would you lock the set screws somehow? If they wiggle loose they will become projectiles. Also I reckon the setting can easily be wrecked if they are too lose. Maybe some PTFE tape on them would be a good idea? Loctite or so seems a bit too permanent??
I am using a dial indicator with a magnetic base, but it is too wiggly for consistent measurements I think. Also the format it has makes is a bit hard to place. I think I will build me one of these:
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Re: Felder BF 6 jointer table setup
So I think I have figured out how to set the table now. I think I will upload a few photos later for future reference. I got the outfeed parallel to within 0.05 m.m (0.002") of the cutter head surface (not the knives that I treat separaretly) which I guess is as good as I can get it.? Now I am on to the cutter knives.
- What tolerance do you aim for around the circumference of the knives? That is, how round do you aim for your cutter circumference to be? I have a textbook that says that the roundness should be within 0.005 m.m (0.0002") but I reckon that is practically hard to achieve? Especially since the adjustment screws are regular M6, and those are quiet coarse.?
Currently I have around 0.2 m.m (0.080")? though which should be way to much?
- Would you lock the set screws somehow? If they wiggle loose they will become projectiles. Also I reckon the setting can easily be wrecked if they are too lose. Maybe some PTFE tape on them would be a good idea? Loctite or so seems a bit too permanent??
I am using a dial indicator with a magnetic base, but it is too wiggly for consistent measurements I think. Also the format it has makes is a bit hard to place. I think I will build me one of these:
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Sang Luu
Jason Holtz
Michael Glaser
imran