Re: Shaper with CopeCrafter and outboard fence and pressure jaws to make panels
Joel,
You might want to also look at CGG Scmidt, who makes a similar product.
Michael
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On Jun 1, 2021, at 8:51 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
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Re: Shaper with CopeCrafter and outboard fence and pressure jaws to make panels
Hi Joel,
If I see something, I will let you know. As mentioned before weaver makes one that looks like this:
They make annextensive array of jigs for all parts of door making. Here is their catalog:
I did find what I bid on, on Machinery max. It was still in my watched list. It was a no name arched panel sled similar to one you see in weaver catalog.?
They all look the same to me with some differences in hold down. To me I will check into how well the hold down works with narrow vs wide material. Something that can be discussed with the manufacturer and I assume most have return policies in case it does not meet your expectation.
Imran
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On May 31, 2021, at 11:41 PM, joelgelman via groups.io <joelgelman@...> wrote: ?No reply from CopeCrafter. ?I think they are out of business. ?They sold for $795. ?I now see one sold used for $187 not long ago:
Imran. ?Can you find one for me at a similar price or at all well before the auction is over? ?Haha.
I did see a couple of similar products.
The above e is a "rail-master" from a company that makes a larger "arch-master". ?Not sure of the price or availability or how is compares to the CopeCrafter, but I sent an email.?
I would not have expected this product from Grizzly, but I see it is for sale and it can be ordered online. ?I am also not sure how that compares to the CopeCrafter, but that is quite a bit more expensive, and not sure why id would be $1,550. ?
Is anyone familiar with that product or see any features that would justify the double price?
Thanks!
.
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Re: Shaper with CopeCrafter and outboard fence and pressure jaws to make panels
No reply from CopeCrafter. ?I think they are out of business. ?They sold for $795. ?I now see one sold used for $187 not long ago:
Imran. ?Can you find one for me at a similar price or at all well before the auction is over? ?Haha.
I did see a couple of similar products.
The above e is a "rail-master" from a company that makes a larger "arch-master". ?Not sure of the price or availability or how is compares to the CopeCrafter, but I sent an email.?
I would not have expected this product from Grizzly, but I see it is for sale and it can be ordered online. ?I am also not sure how that compares to the CopeCrafter, but that is quite a bit more expensive, and not sure why id would be $1,550. ?
Is anyone familiar with that product or see any features that would justify the double price?
Thanks!
.
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Hammer C31 Dust Collection piping setup
#hammer
I am moving to a commercial space, and I have a Hammer C31 with a Harvey Gyro Air G-700 Processor.? What I am looking for is ideas for managing the dust piping around the machine.? The biggest challenge I have is keeping space for wide cuts on the saw, and still having good ergonomic space that the jointer/ thickness area since it converts etc. I am trying to keep it all off the floor; but it seems a combo machine it might be best to run a pipe on the floor and build a ramp over it.
Looking for anyone that has some cool ideas or past experiences trying to set up for a machine that converts.
Thanks
Drew
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Well Craftsman Hardware?was cheaper for the RUWI FAT 300, but I just checked and they've put their price up to just under $2700 AUD (pretty much exactly what Felder AU quoted me for one). They did have them for just over 2K up until very recently. I was going to get mine from them and save myself 700 bucks - but looks like I've missed that boat!?
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Wow, what a great resource. Thanks a lot Chris.
Lucky
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Hey Lucky,? Speak to the guy at Craftsman Hardware here in Melbourne. He sells Ruwi stuff and has the Fat tables , clamping kits etc (Ruwi) ?They are a bit cheaper than Felder direct ? Cheers Chris ? On 26 May 2021, at 8:51 am, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
? More information please.
RUWI are not readily available in Australia, as far as I am aware?
If you brought it in yourself, does your $1950 include: - taxes? - duty? - freight?
$1950 sounds great. Is that in Australian Dollars?
im in australia
felder fat 300 is over 4k
i got my ruwi (identical) for $1950
cheers
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12 hours?? Only thing I can imagine is you have something? stuck?
to a pulley or other rotating component.? I'd look for
interference.?? It's unlikely? the electrics? would do that.? And
since the brake works? I'd not look there.?? I think it's
physical.
Did you check that the blade is on tight?
On 4/6/21 10:21 AM, Doug Middlebrook
via groups.io wrote:
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Any advice on a 3 year old Hammer K3 that started a vibration last
night. I have removed the blade and does not change I pulled on
the shaft no up and down movement. Belt looks okay, makes a start
up noise that I don¡¯t remember hearing, the saw has at max 12
hours on it. I have a call into Felder I am asking as the group
knows all. Yes I hold the on button for a few seconds. Brake works
okay. I replaced the belt when I received the saw as the original
belt was on the pulleys wrong. Thanks for any help. Doug
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Re: Hammer K3 On/Off switch
On 5/30/21 2:29 PM, Elwin Kershaw wrote: Does nobody not just use a long stick?? I tried that.? The long stick was never? handy? Damn thing? kept walking off
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Re: Hammer K3 On/Off switch
I agree, I would like to see an option for a sliding table switch for convenience if nothing else.
I have a K3, and, as you've found and others have said, crosscutting wide panels that extend well right of the blade can necessitate crawling under the workpiece to access the start button. (I remember as a new owner being surprised the first time I encountered this reality, which ran counter to my newbie expectation/assumption that all such operations would be seamless on a sliding tablesaw.) ...It's interesting to read about how different people deal with this. Speaking as a hobbyist user, I don't find letting the saw run continuously is an option for me: my workspace is too tight to safely be loading or removing large panels around a powered blade. Of course, being a hobbyist, I'm not making these cuts--or any repetitive cuts--in any quantity anyway. So it's not a big issue to crawl under twice or three times to hit start, instead of just once, the few times a year this situation crops up. ...Notwithstanding what I just wrote, I personally would pay for the convenience of having a start switch on the sliding table, just to save on leaning over and down the other 99.9% of times I start the saw. It's too bad Hammer doesn't offer this as an extra-cost option.?
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Re: Hammer K3 On/Off switch
Does nobody not just use a long stick??
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On May 30, 2021, at 9:27 AM, df.stone via groups.io <df.stone@...> wrote:
?I have a K3, and, as you've found and others have said, crosscutting wide panels that extend well right of the blade can necessitate crawling under the workpiece to access the start button. (I remember as a new owner being surprised the first time I encountered this reality, which ran counter to my newbie expectation/assumption that all such operations would be seamless on a sliding tablesaw.) ...It's interesting to read about how different people deal with this. Speaking as a hobbyist user, I don't find letting the saw run continuously is an option for me: my workspace is too tight to safely be loading or removing large panels around a powered blade. Of course, being a hobbyist, I'm not making these cuts--or any repetitive cuts--in any quantity anyway. So it's not a big issue to crawl under twice or three times to hit start, instead of just once, the few times a year this situation crops up. ...Notwithstanding what I just wrote, I personally would pay for the convenience of having a start switch on the sliding table, just to save on leaning over and down the other 99.9% of times I start the saw. It's too bad Hammer doesn't offer this as an extra-cost option.?
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Re: Hammer K3 On/Off switch
I think my DIY solution to add remote slider switches is around $100. If you understand how a switch works you should be able to do it. Obviously, one should feel comfortable working with electricity to attempt. As mentioned earlier in this thread, pendent is another option.
Imran
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On May 30, 2021, at 12:12 PM, Ronnie <picktool@...> wrote: ?Crawled once then used a broomstick followed up with a decent length of conduit still going strong today.
It's too bad Hammer doesn't offer this as an extra-cost option.
I wouldn't even want to know how much
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Re: Hammer K3 On/Off switch
Crawled once then used a broomstick followed up with a decent length of conduit still going strong today.
It's too bad Hammer doesn't offer this as an extra-cost option.
I wouldn't even want to know how much
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Re: Hammer K3 On/Off switch
I have a K3, and, as you've found and others have said, crosscutting wide panels that extend well right of the blade can necessitate crawling under the workpiece to access the start button. (I remember as a new owner being surprised the first time I encountered this reality, which ran counter to my newbie expectation/assumption that all such operations would be seamless on a sliding tablesaw.) ...It's interesting to read about how different people deal with this. Speaking as a hobbyist user, I don't find letting the saw run continuously is an option for me: my workspace is too tight to safely be loading or removing large panels around a powered blade. Of course, being a hobbyist, I'm not making these cuts--or any repetitive cuts--in any quantity anyway. So it's not a big issue to crawl under twice or three times to hit start, instead of just once, the few times a year this situation crops up. ...Notwithstanding what I just wrote, I personally would pay for the convenience of having a start switch on the sliding table, just to save on leaning over and down the other 99.9% of times I start the saw. It's too bad Hammer doesn't offer this as an extra-cost option.?
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Felder BF4-31 -1986 - Tracy, CA
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Re: Hammer K3 On/Off switch
I'd get a hunk of plywood on the machine and then I'd be? on my
hands and knees (cussing up a storm) turning the machine on.? I
was? incredulous that they did that.? The Hammer doesn't have an 9
foot slider. Handling full size sheet goods can be trippy.
? Don't get? me going on the hammer rip Fence. I had to make my
own.? It's way better.? the factory one just fell into pieces
The slider is pretty good though.
On 5/29/21 12:30 AM, Mark Kessler
wrote:
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In all fairness I can see where it can be an issue, back in the
day the saw would go on at 6am and I could be there until noon
busting up panels - turning off was not usually an option, now
that I just do ww for the hell of it it is more of an off/on kinda
thing and I don¡¯t do many full sheets. ?The past two that I did I
totally forgot I had the on/off on the end of slide ¡duh¡
ready
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Re: Hammer K3 On/Off switch
Hi Brian, I believe you hit the nail on the head,?leaving the saw on is probably what the machine's designers had in mind and it makes sense especially when in a production environment. I may evolve to this as I become more comfortable with using the slider (all of my previous saws were cabinet type).?
On Fri, May 28, 2021 at 12:45 PM Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression < airtightclamps@...> wrote: Leave the saw on ,,,simple. Designing and building for 50 years On May 28, 2021, at 9:23 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
?Common problem, solved many years ago by adding a pendant with start/stop buttons in it.
I just cut the first 4¡¯ x 8¡¯ sheet of plywood on my new Hammer K3, and was perplexed at the location of the on/off switch. With the plywood oriented with the 8¡¯ length perpendicular to the saw blade (cutting into 3¡¯ and 5¡¯ lengths) I was set up and ready to make the cut. In order to turn the saw on I had to crawl under the overhanging portion of the plywood to access the on/off switch. I can¡¯t see any other means of turning on the saw. Given that the Hammer line is CE compliant with all of the safety considerations of blade guard, splitter, sliding table that keeps ones hands away from the blade, blade brake and such I find it odd that it is impossible to turn the saw on without having to get on your hands and knees to access the switch. I see that the higher end format saws have the switch on the end of the sliding table. This makes complete sense because the end of the sliding table never travels to the start of the blade diameter and so is always exposed or ?physically available to the user. Am I doing something wrong in my use of the saw, is there another way to orient the workpiece so I don¡¯t have to crawl under it to turn on the saw?
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Re: Hammer K3 On/Off switch
Ahhh, solenoids. Do you use the solenoid shaft to push the button?
On Fri, May 28, 2021 at 9:05 PM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. < rohrabacher@...> wrote:
? HAHAHAHAHAHA?
STUPID? isn't it?
I got some strong solenoids and a power supply and? rigged up a
pendant on/off stitch that hangs from the? ceiling on a retracting
coiled cord.?? The hard part was finding solenoids string enough.
On 5/28/21 12:41 AM, Kevin Wells wrote:
I just cut the first 4¡¯ x 8¡¯ sheet of plywood on my new Hammer K3,
and was perplexed at the location of the on/off switch. With the
plywood oriented with the 8¡¯ length perpendicular to the saw blade
(cutting into 3¡¯ and 5¡¯ lengths) I was set up and ready to make
the cut. In order to turn the saw on I had to crawl under the
overhanging portion of the plywood to access the on/off switch. I
can¡¯t see any other means of turning on the saw. Given that the
Hammer line is CE compliant with all of the safety considerations
of blade guard, splitter, sliding table that keeps ones hands away
from the blade, blade brake and such I find it odd that it is
impossible to turn the saw on without having to get on your hands
and knees to access the switch. I see that the higher end format
saws have the switch on the end of the sliding table. This makes
complete sense because the end of the sliding table never travels
to the start of the blade diameter and so is always exposed or
?physically available to the user. Am I doing something wrong in
my use of the saw, is there another way to orient the workpiece so
I don¡¯t have to crawl under it to turn on the saw?
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Re: Hammer K3 On/Off switch
Thanks Derek, I had a similar set up on my cabinet saw and I liked it as I could turn the saw off with my hip/thigh if needed. With your idea this wouldn't?be possible but in an emergency it would be a big advantage to have a large target such as yours to aim for. I will probably copy your idea.
Kevin, my ¡°solution¡± may not help enough in your situation since I do not work with sheets, only hardwood - as a result I do not have to duck under the board to get to the switch. In my case I wanted an easier on-off (especially off) switch. My solution was to build a simple hinged cover over the off button. While this focusses on the off switch, it also makes it easier to locate the on switch by feel.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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David, Eric
thank you for the information, I will cont him today and Eric I will check out the walk between the two towns. ?I have a few days to use up in that area
thank you both
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Re: Hammer K3 On/Off switch
In all fairness I can see where it can be an issue, back in the day the saw would go on at 6am and I could be there until noon busting up panels - turning off was not usually an option, now that I just do ww for the hell of it it is more of an off/on kinda thing and I don¡¯t do many full sheets. ?The past two that I did I totally forgot I had the on/off on the end of slide ¡duh¡
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On May 29, 2021, at 12:06 AM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
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imran
Drew Tosh
David Luckensmeyer
Kevin Wells
Ben