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I have no idea, I just know that the electronics can be a source of failure points. Witness all the failed brake boards lately… and blown capacitors. I don’t find the hand cranking of the saw or

Fred, it's less about the blade stiffness and more about the locking mechanisms failing over time, especially the leverlock/autolock styles. Brian and David B., thanks for the recommendations, I

Enlighten? I don't follow.

Keith, Not sure what is happening but few pieces of info may help. Single phase or 3 phase? Is electric brake working, load or no load? Imran

Hi Keith, Have you got the feed engaged for thicknesser/planer, when this happens?. Colin Sent from Mail for Windows 10 Sent: Sunday, 14 March 2021 6:40 PM To: [email protected] Subject:

My planer /jointer has just developed a problem. When I start the machine up the head starts to turn then stalls and starts a growling noise (for want of a better word) ,the motor overheats and cuts

How stiff is the blade?? Can it handle an unsupported measure of 10-12'?Thanks,?Fred

I have three of these Starrett tape measures, and the locking systems have held up for years: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ELMT39W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The electronic controls and mechanical positioning systems for height and tilt are identical across all “PowerDrive” equipped saws and shapers. J/P planer table elevation is a different beast. The

Perhaps enlighten us Chris? It is Chris right? This forum is much smaller than most, and it’s nice to confirm your name please. Thanks. Warm regards, David Lucky

It’s a good point Brian but I’ve never gone a “down” day either with my 16 year old Dual 51 with digi drive. Maybe the KF electronics are not as robust? Warm regards, David Lucky

Well, I always check each machine so I am aware of any flaws however minor. On my K975, first 6’ of my slider (from infeed end) are perfect, elevation wise. The rest is fine too but I use that part

Acharya, I will have to agree with Imran, The power drive on the J/P is great, No fussing around when you do multiple passes as you know where you are at the last. as he said, If you on a budget I

My only practical response to making up for inadequate tools is how much does it cost to correct the deficit? In most wood stuff, if you can hit 0.1mm (0.004"), that's a sheet of printer paper, and a

I often see a reply such as Mark made and my next question is to ask what tolerance is too much. I think the statement itself opens up a minefield of guesswork.

The only one I’ve found to lock solidly with many years of use has been a Starrett tape measure I have. All the others start slipping after a year or so.

Esteemed members, I'm coming to you with a serious case of frustration over cheap tape measure repairs. I'm cheap and I want more out of my tape measures. My leverlocks from Stanley and Fastcap seem

I find that manual with the hand wheel indicators works just fine on the saw and shaper. I would want power up and down on the J/P. My machines are over 20 years old now and never been down a day

Buy it all if you can afford it - you'll never regret it. If I had to save money, first choice is shaper tilt to go manual. I would never spend what it takes to be in the 700 series shaper or saw and

I have just blade elevation on K975 and I do not like not having a precise control or a DRO. I like powerdrive on my J/P where I can make a quick change fast and then advance by .01mm or 0.005mil. If