Re: Barn Door Hardware Recommendations
These pocket doors came up in discussions a while back
Dave Davies
I’m a big fan of KN Crowder products.? Here is a link to there barn door systems: ?
You may or may not like the esthetics of the Crowder choices - they all hide the track and roller mechanisms. ?
If you prefer the more rustic and exposed mechanism hardware, I know several people who have been happy with the products sold by this outfit: ?
On Mar 6, 2021, at 4:47 AM, Patty & Steve Spear via < passpear@...> wrote:
Hi,
? ? ?My wife wants me to replace her pantry door with a barn door. She wants it painted so I was just going to make it out of 6/4 popular. She likes the soft close/open feature. Any suggestions on where to buy the hardware?? The big box stores carry some, but I am suspect of the quality. I am thinking it maybe worth spending more on the hardware as this door will be opened and closed many times a day. Thanks for your suggestions.?
Steve
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
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Thank for clarification Mark. It was hard to see what’s going on ….. ?
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From: [email protected] On Behalf Of Mark Kessler Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2021 11:10 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [FOG] zci for k940 ? Hi Imran,? Wire edm is done submerged, the video shown is the cnc’ing after the edm
On Mar 6, 2021, at 10:26 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Looking good. I have not seen wire EDM in person but read up some time ago and was under the impression that it is always done submerged. Apparently it can be done with just abundant fluid as well. ?Quick update for those that are interested on the k940s zci, chips are starting to ?! Should be complete next week... Interesting that he used one of our edm’s to rough cut the blanks, guess he wanted to start with some super accurate blanks?, left some interesting accurately cut scraps...
Here is the scoring section being milled in the Hurco...
? So I decided I needed a zci for the new k940, thought I would get away without one but here I am... I reached out to David Best as I knew he had made one for the kappa. The k940 saw unit, top casting and 3 plastic segments appear to be the same however I have the LED lights so wasn’t sure if David would be willing to modify his design and if it would be worth the time/cost to do so. After a few back and forth emails David decided to not take it on, a few key dimensions were slightly different and could require a few iterations to get it right which I agreed.? David was so kind in allowing me to use his drawings, however after I started to model it and compared it to my parts in hand it wasn’t adding up so I had to abandon the drawings given and just start from scratch from my actual parts. So the first task was to model the LED section first as it is the most difficult to work out, then 3d print, check fit and make adjustments (done) After that 3d print all the parts to confirm (tomorrow) and finally have machined in aluminum (tbd) The other unknown was how was the LED installed, the only way to find out was to remove it which would obviously void the warranty but after studying the elect schematic and looking at the parts drawings I convinced myself that it was no big deal and easy to fix if I screwed up the LED strip.? So here are some progress pics... note, the 3d printed LED section is short due the the 3D printer bed not being long enough, a bolt hole is missing so it is not tight against the cast...
? Below is the auto score feature in action with the as delivered LED section?
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Hi Imran,? Wire edm is done submerged, the video shown is the cnc’ing after the edm
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On Mar 6, 2021, at 10:26 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Looking good. I have not seen wire EDM in person but read up some time ago and was under the impression that it is always done submerged. Apparently it can be done with just abundant fluid as well.
Imran?
On Mar 4, 2021, at 1:56 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? Quick update for those that are interested on the k940s zci, chips are starting to ?! Should be complete next week...
Interesting that he used one of our edm’s to rough cut the blanks, guess he wanted to start with some super accurate blanks?, left some interesting accurately cut scraps...
Here is the scoring section being milled in the Hurco...
On Jan 19, 2021, at 11:26 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? So I decided I needed a zci for the new k940, thought I would get away without one but here I am... I reached out to David Best as I knew he had made one for the kappa. The k940 saw unit, top casting and 3 plastic segments appear to be the same however I have the LED lights so wasn’t sure if David would be willing to modify his design and if it would be worth the time/cost to do so. After a few back and forth emails David decided to not take it on, a few key dimensions were slightly different and could require a few iterations to get it right which I agreed.?
David was so kind in allowing me to use his drawings, however after I started to model it and compared it to my parts in hand it wasn’t adding up so I had to abandon the drawings given and just start from scratch from my actual parts.
So the first task was to model the LED section first as it is the most difficult to work out, then 3d print, check fit and make adjustments (done) After that 3d print all the parts to confirm (tomorrow) and finally have machined in aluminum (tbd)
The other unknown was how was the LED installed, the only way to find out was to remove it which would obviously void the warranty but after studying the elect schematic and looking at the parts drawings I convinced myself that it was no big deal and easy to fix if I screwed up the LED strip.?
So here are some progress pics... note, the 3d printed LED section is short due the the 3D printer bed not being long enough, a bolt hole is missing so it is not tight against the cast...
??
Below is the auto score feature in action with the as delivered LED section?
<image0.jpeg> <Video_1.mov> <image2.jpeg> <image0.png> <image1.png> <image2.png> <image3.jpeg> <image4.jpeg> <image5.jpeg> <image6.jpeg> <Video.MOV>
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Looking good. I have not seen wire EDM in person but read up some time ago and was under the impression that it is always done submerged. Apparently it can be done with just abundant fluid as well.
Imran?
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On Mar 4, 2021, at 1:56 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote: ? Quick update for those that are interested on the k940s zci, chips are starting to ?! Should be complete next week...
Interesting that he used one of our edm’s to rough cut the blanks, guess he wanted to start with some super accurate blanks?, left some interesting accurately cut scraps...
Here is the scoring section being milled in the Hurco...
On Jan 19, 2021, at 11:26 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? So I decided I needed a zci for the new k940, thought I would get away without one but here I am... I reached out to David Best as I knew he had made one for the kappa. The k940 saw unit, top casting and 3 plastic segments appear to be the same however I have the LED lights so wasn’t sure if David would be willing to modify his design and if it would be worth the time/cost to do so. After a few back and forth emails David decided to not take it on, a few key dimensions were slightly different and could require a few iterations to get it right which I agreed.?
David was so kind in allowing me to use his drawings, however after I started to model it and compared it to my parts in hand it wasn’t adding up so I had to abandon the drawings given and just start from scratch from my actual parts.
So the first task was to model the LED section first as it is the most difficult to work out, then 3d print, check fit and make adjustments (done) After that 3d print all the parts to confirm (tomorrow) and finally have machined in aluminum (tbd)
The other unknown was how was the LED installed, the only way to find out was to remove it which would obviously void the warranty but after studying the elect schematic and looking at the parts drawings I convinced myself that it was no big deal and easy to fix if I screwed up the LED strip.?
So here are some progress pics... note, the 3d printed LED section is short due the the 3D printer bed not being long enough, a bolt hole is missing so it is not tight against the cast...
??
Below is the auto score feature in action with the as delivered LED section?
<image0.jpeg> <Video_1.mov> <image2.jpeg> <image0.png> <image1.png> <image2.png> <image3.jpeg> <image4.jpeg> <image5.jpeg> <image6.jpeg> <Video.MOV>
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I have the same sliding table on a K500 and you cannot if you plan to clamp on both ends. With clamp, the minium is 2800mm to cut 8 ft board,?if your clamp bases are not too big. According to many threads about it on this forum. The infeed end of this sliding table is an additional 12 inches or so that is useless from my point of view. Check the K940 layout in the file section and look for the design of the handle of the 2500 sliding table. Or look in their pdf catalogue page 57. Here is the picture: to cut to full length you need your wood to be on that additional aluminum extension. I hope I make it clear.  Bill
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I am thinking about trading up to a k700p with the 2500mm slider.? Is cutting a sheet of melamine which is 2460 long do able on the saw including the scoring blade.? I currently have a k3 winner which has been a great saw.
thanks
Roy
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Re: Used KF700 year 200 price check
Thanks Patrick & Imran for your thoughts. I was excited to see this saw come up in the Seattle market local to me, but then found it to be so-so in person.
It's missing an eccentric clamp, table saw blade guard, and anything for the shaper beyond a fence: no hold downs or other safety feature items, which I would have thought an original shaper user would have thought necessary (even my Rojek has a bundle of different helpers for the shaper). The current owner only used it as a saw. It seems like the under the table shaper dust collector "basket" is half broken, unless it's normal that half the sphere is missing. Only the half connected to the dust tube leading to the exterior is there, so a lot of chips would fall down onto the spindle/belt, that seems wrong. Although the exterior of the body says it can take a high speed spindle, the E-shop part numbers suggest only more modern ones are stocked. I will have to contact my Felder salesperson. It's a pretty expensive part, I think I would probably just work a router table into an outfeed table extension (to utilize the slider) and keep the shaper for shaper sized cutters. That's what I did with the Rojek.
The outrigger table is all fine and present. Just no eccentric hold down.
The 3 phase is the problem - due to limited power at my subpanel, I talked to an electrician today. He advised me I should turn off my heat when using the saw and RPC, or I might blow the main under initial motor loading. No other tool in the shop exceeds 4.8hp (3.5KW) single phase, and most are less, so up until now my panel was always ok. It's 80' of difficult conduit pull, mostly underground, so I won't be upgrading. I know because I did it all myself when I was younger and more energetic.
I agree about the 80"…I was really searching for 98", to just squeak by with sheet goods. I'm already annoyed on enough occasions with the limits of my 5' saw, and 80" isn't much better. 10' is really common as a used saw, even 5' is somewhat common on the used saw-shaper or 5-in-1 market. But 8' seems really rare. I think this length issue (along with the RPC) will keep me looking for a used 8' while I save for another year or so to purchase new. My used budget is $5-6k at present, and I know new is $8-12k, depending on make and manuf. So I'm halfway to new.
Great site (and so many more users than the tiny Minimax iogroups!).
Steve
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I am looking at selling my k3 winner 2000mm slider and purchasing a k700p with the 2500 mm slider.? Would the 2500mm slider on the thee k700p by able to cut the untire length for a 2460mm long sheet of melamine.
thanks
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Re: Adding fence to bandsaw?
Joe,
I mounted Aigner rails on my bandsaw for Aigner pressure wheels following Aigner directions. Later I realize that my felder cast iron extension tables don’t fit. Maybe, I could have mounted the rails differently to make both work.
Imran
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On Mar 5, 2021, at 11:32 PM, Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote: ? I would like to have mounting rails on bandsaws for extension fences when sawing long veneers.? I have Felder rails and tables on my saw and shaper. Is the Aigner rail the same size as the felder rectangular mounting rail? I like that they taper down to prevent snagging your clothes on the rail ends.
?
I really like how the Felder built bandaws have a fence that mounts to the same rail.? They have a split in the rail in front for the blade to pass through.??
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Re: Barn Door Hardware Recommendations
I’m a big fan of KN Crowder products. ?Here is a link to there barn door systems: ?
You may or may not like the esthetics of the Crowder choices - they all hide the track and roller mechanisms. ?
If you prefer the more rustic and exposed mechanism hardware, I know several people who have been happy with the products sold by this outfit: ?
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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On Mar 6, 2021, at 4:47 AM, Patty & Steve Spear via < passpear@...> wrote:
Hi,
? ? ?My wife wants me to replace her pantry door with a barn door. She wants it painted so I was just going to make it out of 6/4 popular. She likes the soft close/open feature. Any suggestions on where to buy the hardware? ?The big box stores carry some, but I am suspect of the quality. I am thinking it maybe worth spending more on the hardware as this door will be opened and closed many times a day. Thanks for your suggestions.?
Steve
|
Barn Door Hardware Recommendations
Hi,
? ? ?My wife wants me to replace her pantry door with a barn door. She wants it painted so I was just going to make it out of 6/4 popular. She likes the soft close/open feature. Any suggestions on where to buy the hardware? ?The big box stores carry some, but I am suspect of the quality. I am thinking it maybe worth spending more on the hardware as this door will be opened and closed many times a day. Thanks for your suggestions.?
Steve
|
Re: Adding fence to bandsaw?
I would like to have mounting rails on bandsaws for extension fences when sawing long veneers.? I have Felder rails and tables on my saw and shaper. Is the Aigner rail the same size as the felder rectangular mounting rail? I like that they taper down to prevent snagging your clothes on the rail ends.
?
I really like how the Felder built bandaws have a fence that mounts to the same rail.? They have a split in the rail in front for the blade to pass through.??
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Re: 20” Northfield bandsaw
I had a chat with Jeff at Northfield about a 32” bandsaw I was considering.? Got similar information.? The last owner bought in 2006 and sent the wheels
in to Northfield to be trued, new tires, and crowned.? My saw was shipping in 1967 and had 3 owners before me.
?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of Mark Kessler
Sent: Friday, March 5, 2021 8:11 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] 20” Northfield bandsaw
?
Thanks Dave, does not include the power feed but he said he could deliver it as he is only about 15min away. Northfield got back to me and below is what he said. Pretty cool to get all the history, the guy selling is the one who bought
it!?
I am looking at this as a under 12-14” resaw to replace the laguna 14/12 which actually isn’t that bad as long as its under 7”. I would eventually get a larger saw but for now I don’t have the space then use the 20” for “scroll” work.?
As far as blade selection i was thinking carbide but I think there was a recent discussion on non carbide blades that dis a great job at a lower cost, what your opinion?
Reply from NorthField below,
S/N 612332-I is a 20" Bandsaw that was shipped as a "motor Base at Side No Electrics" Machine.? That means that it had no motor, belts,
pulleys, belt guard or motor starting equipment.? Those items installed at the time of sale by either the distributor or customer.? It also had SZ#0 Carter Guides.
?
It left our Plant on 10/03/1961 and shipped to Enterprise Machinery, one of our Distributors in NY State.
In?2019, Adam Geraldson in Essex Junction, VT?bought it . It
sold for $475.00 in 1961.?
In 2019, We shipped tires and a new #0 Carter Guide.
?
A.? $2K is Fair.
B. ?Don't know what's on it for motor HP or Blade Speed.? You want to be under 5600 feet per minute to resaw effectively. 5,600 fpm on
a 20" wheel equals approximately 1,070 rpm. Shoot for 900 rpm.
C.? None of these saws can provide the tensions the blade people ask for.? The Guides hold the blade.? Don't worry so much about tension.
?
On Mar 5, 2021, at 9:49 AM, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:
?
If condition is good, a decent deal without the feeder and a great one with it.? As a resaw it will be OK but not in the same world as a heavy ACM or Centauro 24" or a NF 27 or32".? It will likely
handle a steel blade but I doubt it will tension a carbide blade if that is what you intend.? The cast iron saws in the 20" range had larger tables and were more of a scroll type saw with occasional resawing.? The 30" saws were built for both and the 36" could
resaw most anything up to 20" wide.? Dave
A 20” 1961 northfield bandsaw came up for 2k, is that a fair price? Not sure if the power feeder is included, waiting on a reply. Appears to be in good condition, new tires, 2 hp 3p.?
I will be looking to use this as a resaw at least for now, shopsawn veneers and general resaw
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Re: 20” Northfield bandsaw
I believe so.? No internet presence .? I just gave Louis the length, inner and outer dimensions and had him specify the coil.? I know there are formulas but I took the easy way out.? Dave
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Is Iturra still in business?
On Mar 5, 2021, at 8:16 AM, David Kumm < davekumm@...> wrote:
I put an Iturra spring on my Y20 as well and it is a worthwhile upgrade.? Dave
If you’re interested, I bought and refurbished a Northfield 20 last fall and made a YouTube video series about the project.
?
?
?
I also contacted Northfield and added both the single roller resaw fence plus the regular double-sided fence. I also added the Iturra heavy spring, as the standard Northfield spring is really wimpy.? I’m able to tension a ?” blade to 25000 psi.? The saw MIGHT
be able to handle a 1”, but there are some clearance issues with guides and wheel width where I wasn’t sure if it was worth it, and Iturra said the difference between ?” and 1” isn’t likely to be huge.
?
I haven’t done a massive amount of resawing, but it’s working OK. I may still have alignment issues with the single roller resaw fence; I’m having arguably better results with the standard fence as long as my board is short enough that I can control it that
way.
?
If condition is good, a decent deal without the feeder and a great one with it.? As a resaw it will be OK but not in the same world as a heavy ACM or Centauro 24" or a NF 27 or32".? It will likely handle a steel blade but
I doubt it will tension a carbide blade if that is what you intend.? The cast iron saws in the 20" range had larger tables and were more of a scroll type saw with occasional resawing.? The 30" saws were built for both and the 36" could resaw most anything
up to 20" wide.? Dave
A 20” 1961 northfield bandsaw came up for 2k, is that a fair price? Not sure if the power feeder is included, waiting on a reply. Appears to be in good condition, new tires, 2 hp 3p.?
I will be looking to use this as a resaw at least for now, shopsawn veneers and general resaw
|
Re: 20” Northfield bandsaw
Is Iturra still in business?
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On Mar 5, 2021, at 8:16 AM, David Kumm < davekumm@...> wrote:
I put an Iturra spring on my Y20 as well and it is a worthwhile upgrade.? Dave
If you’re interested, I bought and refurbished a Northfield 20 last fall and made a YouTube video series about the project. ? ? ? I also contacted Northfield and added both the single roller resaw fence plus the regular double-sided fence. I also added the Iturra heavy spring, as the standard Northfield spring is really wimpy.? I’m able to tension a ?” blade to 25000 psi.? The saw MIGHT be able to handle a 1”, but there are some clearance issues with guides and wheel width where I wasn’t sure if it was worth it, and Iturra said the difference between ?” and 1” isn’t likely to be huge. ? I haven’t done a massive amount of resawing, but it’s working OK. I may still have alignment issues with the single roller resaw fence; I’m having arguably better results with the standard fence as long as my board is short enough that I can control it that way. ? If condition is good, a decent deal without the feeder and a great one with it.? As a resaw it will be OK but not in the same world as a heavy ACM or Centauro 24" or a NF 27 or32".? It will likely handle a steel blade but I doubt it will tension a carbide blade if that is what you intend.? The cast iron saws in the 20" range had larger tables and were more of a scroll type saw with occasional resawing.? The 30" saws were built for both and the 36" could resaw most anything up to 20" wide.? Dave
A 20” 1961 northfield bandsaw came up for 2k, is that a fair price? Not sure if the power feeder is included, waiting on a reply. Appears to be in good condition, new tires, 2 hp 3p.? I will be looking to use this as a resaw at least for now, shopsawn veneers and general resaw
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Re: 20” Northfield bandsaw
Guys, you mention an Iturra spring. What makes it good? My Wadkin DR36 needs a new tensioning spring as the original is either worn out or was never stiff enough. But I have no idea how to buy springs.?
Can you give me any guidance on a suitable spring purchase for a large cast iron saw from the 1940s. ?
Length? “罢丑颈肠办苍别蝉蝉”? ID and OD?
Coil pitch? Compressibility?
Thanks for your help.?
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On 6 Mar 2021, at 2:16 am, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:
?
I put an Iturra spring on my Y20 as well and it is a worthwhile upgrade.? Dave
If you’re interested, I bought and refurbished a Northfield 20 last fall and made a YouTube video series about the project.
?
?
?
I also contacted Northfield and added both the single roller resaw fence plus the regular double-sided fence. I also added the Iturra heavy spring, as the standard Northfield spring is really wimpy.? I’m able to tension a ?” blade to 25000 psi.? The saw MIGHT
be able to handle a 1”, but there are some clearance issues with guides and wheel width where I wasn’t sure if it was worth it, and Iturra said the difference between ?” and 1” isn’t likely to be huge.
?
I haven’t done a massive amount of resawing, but it’s working OK. I may still have alignment issues with the single roller resaw fence; I’m having arguably better results with the standard fence as long as my board is short enough that I can control it that
way.
?
If condition is good, a decent deal without the feeder and a great one with it.? As a resaw it will be OK but not in the same world as a heavy ACM or Centauro 24" or a NF 27 or32".? It will likely handle a steel blade
but I doubt it will tension a carbide blade if that is what you intend.? The cast iron saws in the 20" range had larger tables and were more of a scroll type saw with occasional resawing.? The 30" saws were built for both and the 36" could resaw most anything
up to 20" wide.? Dave
A 20” 1961 northfield bandsaw came up for 2k, is that a fair price? Not sure if the power feeder is included, waiting on a reply. Appears to be in good condition, new tires, 2 hp 3p.?
I will be looking to use this as a resaw at least for now, shopsawn veneers and general resaw
|
Re: 20” Northfield bandsaw
Those higher resaw heights is where tension is a lot better than relying on guides to hold blades.? Is it possible to buy a 3/4" blade and try the machine before delivery?? The NF will be a sweet second saw, I'm just not sure about the 12" resaw.? My ACM 18"
machine could resaw 12" but it wasn't ideal.? My Y20 will handle 8-10" but again not ideal like the 217 or 116.? Dave
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Thanks Dave, i guess the main question is assuming well tuned with the right blade is this saw capable resawing 1/8” - 3/32” veneers at 12”-14” height, I understand that it might not be ideal...?
On Mar 5, 2021, at 11:22 AM, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:
?
Sounds like a plan.? Delivery is worth 500 at least.? The spring will cost about $25 worst case.? Start with a decent bi metal 3/4" blade and get to know the quirks of the machine.? If you decide on carbide but the tension is iffy, the laguna Resaw King has
a thinner band than the Lenox so it might be an option.? I prefer the lenox but the .035 band will be at the high end of what the saw can handle, even with the new spring.? On my Yates, the spring sits on the casting but you want to check that whatever supports
the spring can also handle the additional load.? 2-3 varitooth should be good.? My Olivers run at 6750 fpm which is fast but works for me as I'm not very patient so feed rate can be greater with the extra speed.? Dave
Actually, the guy selling bought it in 2019...
On Mar 5, 2021, at 10:11 AM, Mark Kessler via groups.io <mkessler10@...> wrote:
?Thanks Dave, does not include the power feed but he said he could deliver it as he is only about 15min away. Northfield got back to me and below is what he said. Pretty cool to get all the history, the guy selling is the one who bought it!?
I am looking at this as a under 12-14” resaw to replace the laguna 14/12 which actually isn’t that bad as long as its under 7”. I would eventually get a larger saw but for now I don’t have the space then use the 20” for “scroll” work.?
As far as blade selection i was thinking carbide but I think there was a recent discussion on non carbide blades that dis a great job at a lower cost, what your opinion?
Reply from NorthField below,
S/N 612332-I is a 20" Bandsaw that was shipped as a "motor Base at Side No Electrics" Machine.? That means that it had no motor, belts, pulleys, belt guard or motor starting equipment.? Those items
installed at the time of sale by either the distributor or customer.? It also had SZ#0 Carter Guides.
?
It left our Plant on 10/03/1961 and shipped to Enterprise Machinery, one of our Distributors in NY State.
In?2019, Adam Geraldson in Essex Junction, VT?bought it . It sold for $475.00 in 1961.?
In 2019, We shipped tires and a new #0 Carter Guide.
?
A.? $2K is Fair.
B. ?Don't know what's on it for motor HP or Blade Speed.? You want to be under 5600 feet per minute to resaw effectively. 5,600 fpm on a 20" wheel equals approximately 1,070 rpm. Shoot for 900 rpm.
C.? None of these saws can provide the tensions the blade people ask for.? The Guides hold the blade.? Don't worry so much about tension.
On Mar 5, 2021, at 9:49 AM, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:
?
If condition is good, a decent deal without the feeder and a great one with it.? As a resaw it will be OK but not in the same world as a heavy ACM or Centauro 24" or a NF 27 or32".? It will likely handle a steel blade but I doubt it will tension a carbide blade
if that is what you intend.? The cast iron saws in the 20" range had larger tables and were more of a scroll type saw with occasional resawing.? The 30" saws were built for both and the 36" could resaw most anything up to 20" wide.? Dave
A 20” 1961 northfield bandsaw came up for 2k, is that a fair price? Not sure if the power feeder is included, waiting on a reply. Appears to be in good condition, new tires, 2 hp 3p.?
I will be looking to use this as a resaw at least for now, shopsawn veneers and general resaw
Thanks for any input.
<00G0G_cQdnIZSZvaRz_0c60fh_600x450.jpg>
<00202_l4thaSmyepOz_0c60ff_600x450.jpg>
|
Re: 20” Northfield bandsaw
Thanks Dave, i guess the main question is assuming well tuned with the right blade is this saw capable resawing 1/8” - 3/32” veneers at 12”-14” height, I understand that it might not be ideal...?
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Show quoted text
On Mar 5, 2021, at 11:22 AM, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:
?
Sounds like a plan.? Delivery is worth 500 at least.? The spring will cost about $25 worst case.? Start with a decent bi metal 3/4" blade and get to know the quirks of the machine.? If you decide on carbide but the tension is iffy, the laguna Resaw King has
a thinner band than the Lenox so it might be an option.? I prefer the lenox but the .035 band will be at the high end of what the saw can handle, even with the new spring.? On my Yates, the spring sits on the casting but you want to check that whatever supports
the spring can also handle the additional load.? 2-3 varitooth should be good.? My Olivers run at 6750 fpm which is fast but works for me as I'm not very patient so feed rate can be greater with the extra speed.? Dave
Actually, the guy selling bought it in 2019...
On Mar 5, 2021, at 10:11 AM, Mark Kessler via groups.io <mkessler10@...> wrote:
?Thanks Dave, does not include the power feed but he said he could deliver it as he is only about 15min away. Northfield got back to me and below is what he said. Pretty cool to get all the history, the guy selling is the one who bought it!?
I am looking at this as a under 12-14” resaw to replace the laguna 14/12 which actually isn’t that bad as long as its under 7”. I would eventually get a larger saw but for now I don’t have the space then use the 20” for “scroll” work.?
As far as blade selection i was thinking carbide but I think there was a recent discussion on non carbide blades that dis a great job at a lower cost, what your opinion?
Reply from NorthField below,
S/N 612332-I is a 20" Bandsaw that was shipped as a "motor Base at Side No Electrics" Machine.? That means that it had no motor, belts, pulleys, belt guard or motor starting equipment.? Those items
installed at the time of sale by either the distributor or customer.? It also had SZ#0 Carter Guides.
?
It left our Plant on 10/03/1961 and shipped to Enterprise Machinery, one of our Distributors in NY State.
In?2019, Adam Geraldson in Essex Junction, VT?bought it . It sold for $475.00 in 1961.?
In 2019, We shipped tires and a new #0 Carter Guide.
?
A.? $2K is Fair.
B. ?Don't know what's on it for motor HP or Blade Speed.? You want to be under 5600 feet per minute to resaw effectively. 5,600 fpm on a 20" wheel equals approximately 1,070 rpm. Shoot for 900 rpm.
C.? None of these saws can provide the tensions the blade people ask for.? The Guides hold the blade.? Don't worry so much about tension.
On Mar 5, 2021, at 9:49 AM, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:
?
If condition is good, a decent deal without the feeder and a great one with it.? As a resaw it will be OK but not in the same world as a heavy ACM or Centauro 24" or a NF 27 or32".? It will likely handle a steel blade but I doubt it will tension a carbide blade
if that is what you intend.? The cast iron saws in the 20" range had larger tables and were more of a scroll type saw with occasional resawing.? The 30" saws were built for both and the 36" could resaw most anything up to 20" wide.? Dave
A 20” 1961 northfield bandsaw came up for 2k, is that a fair price? Not sure if the power feeder is included, waiting on a reply. Appears to be in good condition, new tires, 2 hp 3p.?
I will be looking to use this as a resaw at least for now, shopsawn veneers and general resaw
Thanks for any input.
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Re: 20” Northfield bandsaw
Thanks TJ, nice videos. Was good to see the hub issue on the lower wheel, will definitely look that over if i go take a look at it.
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On Mar 5, 2021, at 10:47 AM, TJ Cornish <tj@...> wrote:
?
If you’re interested, I bought and refurbished a Northfield 20 last fall and made a YouTube video series about the project.
?
?
?
I also contacted Northfield and added both the single roller resaw fence plus the regular double-sided fence. I also added the Iturra heavy spring, as the standard Northfield spring is really wimpy.? I’m able to tension a ?” blade to 25000
psi.? The saw MIGHT be able to handle a 1”, but there are some clearance issues with guides and wheel width where I wasn’t sure if it was worth it, and Iturra said the difference between ?” and 1” isn’t likely to be huge.
?
I haven’t done a massive amount of resawing, but it’s working OK. I may still have alignment issues with the single roller resaw fence; I’m having arguably better results with the standard fence as long as my board is short enough that
I can control it that way.
?
If condition is good, a decent deal without the feeder and a great one with it.? As a resaw it will be OK but not in the same world as a heavy ACM or Centauro 24" or a NF 27 or32".? It will likely
handle a steel blade but I doubt it will tension a carbide blade if that is what you intend.? The cast iron saws in the 20" range had larger tables and were more of a scroll type saw with occasional resawing.? The 30" saws were built for both and the 36" could
resaw most anything up to 20" wide.? Dave
A 20” 1961 northfield bandsaw came up for 2k, is that a fair price? Not sure if the power feeder is included, waiting on a reply. Appears to be in good condition, new tires, 2 hp 3p.?
I will be looking to use this as a resaw at least for now, shopsawn veneers and general resaw
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Elliot,
This ebay machine was posted earlier on this forum. The seller is delusional as he thinks this machine is worth over $20K.
If you look at picks you can tell this has dovetail (S) coupling
which, I gather from posts, is less desirable than F (Flat) coupling
because accessory are still available.
Imran?
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On Mar 5, 2021, at 11:45 AM, elliot.consigny@... wrote: ?I'm looking for a used CF631. I'm hoping to find someone on this forum who is either selling one or has a friend that will sell one. If you know of one, please let me know! You can email me at elliot.consigny@...Also, during my research I've seen the importance of having the F coupling of the S coupling. How can you tell from pictures which is which? There is this one on ebay- What do people think of this machine? I'm weary of having to do a lot of restoration/work on a well-worn machine.
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imran
David P. Best
Joe Jensen
David Luckensmeyer