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Re: General Woodworking Question
开云体育I think we’re all struggling with the picture quality, but Michael I wonder whether your idea of raising the bit will not only create the stopped shoulder Rob wants, but it will also re-profile the round-over so it is deeper and not in the same plane? That may be the objective. I don’t know. I’m thinking it might be better to round-over the whole edge, and then use a totally different bit, like a rebate bit or even a large diameter end-mill style bit, for the stopped pass. This would create a bit of an arris on the “rounded” part. I can’t tell from the picture if that is what’s required.Like Michael, just some ideas. Lucky
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Tannewitz Brake Questions
My saw serial number says it was built in 1967 and it was built with hydraulic brakes.? At some point it was converted to the electronic brake setup Tannewitz uses now. I have not torn anything down yet, still don't have it off the pallet.? But it looks like the solenoid that drives the master cylinder for the brakes may be fried.??
I had intended to restore it including the brakes but this will be a saw I intend to use and I assume the electronic brake is a better system than the car brake setup. Does anyone have experience? |
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Re: pocket hole machine
I had the Ritter for a minute. Boat anchor, and a good one at that as it's a huge heavy cabinet that's almost completely empty. It vibrated horribly, made sloppy holes. I can't think of a good Ritter experience besides their line boring machine.
Jason Holtz J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406 612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406 |
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Re: pocket hole machine
开云体育Brett, did you attach the shim blocks to clamp foot somehow or just manually place it between foot and material? imran On Oct 12, 2020, at 1:10 PM, Brett Wissel <Brettwissel@...> wrote:
? Kreg Foreman improvement idea - I dealt with the clamp/walking issue by adding a piece of adhesive backed sandpaper?to the cup/foot for more traction under pressure. Then I got tired of the clamp not having enough?clearance moving pieces?in/out and started wrapping shim blocks with sandpaper instead and adjust the clamp 1/4" oversize for the material,?which is take?up by the shim board(s). The shim boards may or may not be paint stirring sticks wrapped in 120-grit.? Works a charm. On Mon, Oct 12, 2020 at 3:05 PM Michael Tagge <mike.j.tagge@...> wrote:
Brett Wissel
Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@... |
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Re: pocket hole machine
开云体育Michael, thanks for the pics. long time ago i saw a video that talked about the new kreg foreman as an exception where price was reduced and featured improved. it mentioned clamp adjustment, bit replacement and fence positioning (for diff thickness of material) much easier on new model. DC probably is a part as well. i won’t be home for few days, but i have a feeling that the DC collection point cover (you show) may be specific to your model. i am hoping i am wrong. my model # is DB110. imran? On Oct 12, 2020, at 1:05 PM, Michael Tagge <mike.j.tagge@...> wrote:
?
Imran-
On mine, it’s the same way. There is supposed to be a hose that goes from where the drill bit is to the rear hole.
<Image.jpeg> <Image.jpeg> Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry?
Get
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...>
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2020 2:06:24 PM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [FOG] pocket hole machine ?
michael,
i bought foreman used. it is metal base one. it has open bottom and a round hole in rear wall that might be intended for dust collection. if your DC port is similar, would love insight into how to connect DC to this unit. the rear wall port seems
not to point towards the dust source.
imran
On Oct 12, 2020, at 10:42 AM, Michael Tagge <mike.j.tagge@...> wrote: ?
I’ve got the Kreg foreman. I use it a lot and it works pretty well. It was one of those tools I thought was nice to have but now it is essential to me.
It can be improved in several ways aside from the drilling angle previously discussed. I’ve addressed this issue in my design and workflow with reveals etc that minimize that impact. Great for face frame cabinets, not so great for
fine furniture and flush requirements. If that’s the case, I’ll flush rout to fix that but it’s rare that I need to.
It operates on a system of depth setting and clamping via two knobs with a retaining nut. One is depth of drill and the other is the clamp. I find that those are not great at holding over time and have the tendency to work themselves
out of their locked positions. The clamp also is finicky and gets in its own way and doesn’t have great holding power. The bit can make the wood walk a little to the right. Hasn’t actually been too much of an issue practically, just requires a bit more knowledge
or experience to know if a hole is over or under drilled or work into your process checking it prior to use. It usually holds well enough for a kitchen or large built in size in continuous use without coming too far out of alignment for any appreciable issues.
It can also do a wide range of sizes of stock and screws.
It uses a drill type motor to power the drill bit. I think that motor is a bit underpowered for hardwood and tends to bog down. It is probably as fast as the castle from video I saw of the tsm -12 but uses a single action lever. Dust
collection runs off the Bosch tool actuated vac vs central dust collection because of the really small 1-1/2” dc port.
Definitely transportable which I love.
When it dies I will probably upgrade to tsm-12. But not before. Also it is about 450, so a lot lower cost entry point. I would rate it at a semi pro grade tool and it seems out of place compared to the rather industrial grade everything
else is in the shop, aside from my makita miter saw.
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry
Get
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of tom@... <tom@...>
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2020 12:11:09 PM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [FOG] pocket hole machine ?
I have several Kreg jigs as well as the Castle TSM-12??,
my preference is to use the Castle as much as possible. The lower angle of the entry is very nice, and I appreciate having the pilot holes drilled all the way through (my Kreg jigs never seem to drill the pilot all the way).?
My machine utilizes the pair of Bosch routers, and while it is loud, it's no louder than a JDS Multirouter or any other router-based machine in my shop.? The TSM-12 is portable. I've only taken it on-site with me a handful of times, but it was handy to have in those situations. MUCH faster than a Kreg machine.? The only real downside to the Castle machine is that it's really dialed-in for 3/4"/19mm stock. To work with thinner stock you need to put shims between the stock and the table, and I think maximum thickness is ~1.5" / 41mm.? So, for my work flow I typically use my Mafell DD-40P and Festool Domino XL for alignment and so on, the Castle gets used for 3/4" stock, with the Kreg jigs in reserve for oddball parts and pieces that don't work with the Castle..... -- Tom Gensmer Heritage Home Renewals, LLC Minneapolis, MN |
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Re: General Woodworking Question
开云体育Michael, i assume robert is talking about the vertical routing detail that terminates in a V shape in top. i would attempt to make the two fillets with round in between with a bullnose type bit in one pass. round over bit would require two passes but complicating the stoping point as it would be beginning of one pass and end of the other. i figures just use a chisel to make the V shape and then cleanup. not sure if there is enough material to use a hand router plane as it would be ideal. imran On Oct 12, 2020, at 5:34 PM, Michael Tagge <mike.j.tagge@...> wrote:
?
The “v” or grove on the right? There’s always the possibility for chisel clean up for square corners. Unless I’m misunderstanding. I don’t see the detail very clearly on my phone to analyze the nuance.
It’s a three part cut from what I suggested. 1) round over full length. Then probably the same bit, but 2) raise it to get the step on a stopped cut. This is the front. 3) For the groove on the right side, it looks like a stopped
groove or v.
I cannot see a way to do it all at once if that is what you think I was suggesting.
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry
Get
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...>
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2020 7:27:50 PM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [FOG] General Woodworking Question ?
Michael,
if i understand what you are saying correctly, let’s say the roundover bit is making the lower fillet and bottom half of round. how would you drop the workpiece while still traveling to get 1/2 of the V shape? seems like the travel to drop distance
ratio is close to 1:1.
imran
On Oct 12, 2020, at 4:45 PM, Michael Tagge <mike.j.tagge@...> wrote: ?
Looks like a stopped cut to me if I’m looking at the right thing. I’d probably recreate that with a round over then drop it to make a stepped round over in a stop cut setup. The groove or v would follow the same stopped cut plan.
Just some ideas
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry
Get
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Rob Service <rserv2012@...>
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2020 6:10:01 PM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: [FOG] General Woodworking Question ?
Folks,? this is less a question about my Felder machines and more a question on edge detail and ending a round over detail prior to the end of the board.? The attached picture is as they say ... worth a thousand words and its what I'd like to do but have
no idea how to achieve the look.? I've tried a few different methods on exiting the router but can't get this look.? Any ideas would be appreciated.?
<Round Over Edge Detail 1.jpg>
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Re: General Woodworking Question
开云体育Michael, if i understand what you are saying correctly, let’s say the roundover bit is making the lower fillet and bottom half of round. how would you drop the workpiece while still traveling to get 1/2 of the V shape? seems like the travel to drop distance ratio is close to 1:1. imran On Oct 12, 2020, at 4:45 PM, Michael Tagge <mike.j.tagge@...> wrote:
?
Looks like a stopped cut to me if I’m looking at the right thing. I’d probably recreate that with a round over then drop it to make a stepped round over in a stop cut setup. The groove or v would follow the same stopped cut plan.
Just some ideas
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry
Get
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Rob Service <rserv2012@...>
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2020 6:10:01 PM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: [FOG] General Woodworking Question ?
Folks,? this is less a question about my Felder machines and more a question on edge detail and ending a round over detail prior to the end of the board.? The attached picture is as they say ... worth a thousand words and its what I'd like to do but have
no idea how to achieve the look.? I've tried a few different methods on exiting the router but can't get this look.? Any ideas would be appreciated.?
<Round Over Edge Detail 1.jpg>
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Re: General Woodworking Question
开云体育Looks like a stopped cut to me if I’m looking at the right thing. I’d probably recreate that with a round over then drop it to make a stepped round over in a stop cut setup. The groove or v would follow the same stopped cut plan.
Just some ideas
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry
Get
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Rob Service <rserv2012@...>
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2020 6:10:01 PM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: [FOG] General Woodworking Question ?
Folks,? this is less a question about my Felder machines and more a question on edge detail and ending a round over detail prior to the end of the board.? The attached picture is as they say ... worth a thousand words and its what I'd like to do but have
no idea how to achieve the look.? I've tried a few different methods on exiting the router but can't get this look.? Any ideas would be appreciated.?
|
|
General Woodworking Question
Rob Service
Folks,? this is less a question about my Felder machines and more a question on edge detail and ending a round over detail prior to the end of the board.? The attached picture is as they say ... worth a thousand words and its what I'd like to do but have no idea how to achieve the look.? I've tried a few different methods on exiting the router but can't get this look.? Any ideas would be appreciated.?
|
|
Re: pocket hole machine
Kreg Foreman improvement idea - I dealt with the clamp/walking issue by adding a piece of adhesive backed sandpaper?to the cup/foot for more traction under pressure. Then I got tired of the clamp not having enough?clearance moving pieces?in/out and started wrapping shim blocks with sandpaper instead and adjust the clamp 1/4" oversize for the material,?which is take?up by the shim board(s). The shim boards may or may not be paint stirring sticks wrapped in 120-grit.? Works a charm. On Mon, Oct 12, 2020 at 3:05 PM Michael Tagge <mike.j.tagge@...> wrote:
--
Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@... |
|
Re: pocket hole machine
开云体育Imran-
On mine, it’s the same way. There is supposed to be a hose that goes from where the drill bit is to the rear hole.
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry?
Get
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...>
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2020 2:06:24 PM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [FOG] pocket hole machine ?
michael,
i bought foreman used. it is metal base one. it has open bottom and a round hole in rear wall that might be intended for dust collection. if your DC port is similar, would love insight into how to connect DC to this unit. the rear wall port seems
not to point towards the dust source.
imran
On Oct 12, 2020, at 10:42 AM, Michael Tagge <mike.j.tagge@...> wrote: ?
I’ve got the Kreg foreman. I use it a lot and it works pretty well. It was one of those tools I thought was nice to have but now it is essential to me.
It can be improved in several ways aside from the drilling angle previously discussed. I’ve addressed this issue in my design and workflow with reveals etc that minimize that impact. Great for face frame cabinets, not so great for
fine furniture and flush requirements. If that’s the case, I’ll flush rout to fix that but it’s rare that I need to.
It operates on a system of depth setting and clamping via two knobs with a retaining nut. One is depth of drill and the other is the clamp. I find that those are not great at holding over time and have the tendency to work themselves
out of their locked positions. The clamp also is finicky and gets in its own way and doesn’t have great holding power. The bit can make the wood walk a little to the right. Hasn’t actually been too much of an issue practically, just requires a bit more knowledge
or experience to know if a hole is over or under drilled or work into your process checking it prior to use. It usually holds well enough for a kitchen or large built in size in continuous use without coming too far out of alignment for any appreciable issues.
It can also do a wide range of sizes of stock and screws.
It uses a drill type motor to power the drill bit. I think that motor is a bit underpowered for hardwood and tends to bog down. It is probably as fast as the castle from video I saw of the tsm -12 but uses a single action lever. Dust
collection runs off the Bosch tool actuated vac vs central dust collection because of the really small 1-1/2” dc port.
Definitely transportable which I love.
When it dies I will probably upgrade to tsm-12. But not before. Also it is about 450, so a lot lower cost entry point. I would rate it at a semi pro grade tool and it seems out of place compared to the rather industrial grade everything
else is in the shop, aside from my makita miter saw.
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry
Get
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of tom@... <tom@...>
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2020 12:11:09 PM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [FOG] pocket hole machine ?
I have several Kreg jigs as well as the Castle TSM-12??,
my preference is to use the Castle as much as possible. The lower angle of the entry is very nice, and I appreciate having the pilot holes drilled all the way through (my Kreg jigs never seem to drill the pilot all the way).?
My machine utilizes the pair of Bosch routers, and while it is loud, it's no louder than a JDS Multirouter or any other router-based machine in my shop.? The TSM-12 is portable. I've only taken it on-site with me a handful of times, but it was handy to have in those situations. MUCH faster than a Kreg machine.? The only real downside to the Castle machine is that it's really dialed-in for 3/4"/19mm stock. To work with thinner stock you need to put shims between the stock and the table, and I think maximum thickness is ~1.5" / 41mm.? So, for my work flow I typically use my Mafell DD-40P and Festool Domino XL for alignment and so on, the Castle gets used for 3/4" stock, with the Kreg jigs in reserve for oddball parts and pieces that don't work with the Castle..... -- Tom Gensmer Heritage Home Renewals, LLC Minneapolis, MN |
|
Re: pocket hole machine
I bought a new 12. I used their template to enclose the bottom ?for dust collection. It was worthless. I just vacuum it out for the little I use it.? It’s possible I did something wrong or it isn’t sufficient to use it with a shop vac.? Bill Belanger? On Mon, Oct 12, 2020 at 15:06 imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
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|
Re: pocket hole machine
开云体育michael, i bought foreman used. it is metal base one. it has open bottom and a round hole in rear wall that might be intended for dust collection. if your DC port is similar, would love insight into how to connect DC to this unit. the rear wall port seems not to point towards the dust source. imran On Oct 12, 2020, at 10:42 AM, Michael Tagge <mike.j.tagge@...> wrote:
?
I’ve got the Kreg foreman. I use it a lot and it works pretty well. It was one of those tools I thought was nice to have but now it is essential to me.
It can be improved in several ways aside from the drilling angle previously discussed. I’ve addressed this issue in my design and workflow with reveals etc that minimize that impact. Great for face frame cabinets, not so great for
fine furniture and flush requirements. If that’s the case, I’ll flush rout to fix that but it’s rare that I need to.
It operates on a system of depth setting and clamping via two knobs with a retaining nut. One is depth of drill and the other is the clamp. I find that those are not great at holding over time and have the tendency to work themselves
out of their locked positions. The clamp also is finicky and gets in its own way and doesn’t have great holding power. The bit can make the wood walk a little to the right. Hasn’t actually been too much of an issue practically, just requires a bit more knowledge
or experience to know if a hole is over or under drilled or work into your process checking it prior to use. It usually holds well enough for a kitchen or large built in size in continuous use without coming too far out of alignment for any appreciable issues.
It can also do a wide range of sizes of stock and screws.
It uses a drill type motor to power the drill bit. I think that motor is a bit underpowered for hardwood and tends to bog down. It is probably as fast as the castle from video I saw of the tsm -12 but uses a single action lever.
Dust collection runs off the Bosch tool actuated vac vs central dust collection because of the really small 1-1/2” dc port.
Definitely transportable which I love.
When it dies I will probably upgrade to tsm-12. But not before. Also it is about 450, so a lot lower cost entry point. I would rate it at a semi pro grade tool and it seems out of place compared to the rather industrial grade everything
else is in the shop, aside from my makita miter saw.
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry
Get
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of tom@... <tom@...>
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2020 12:11:09 PM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [FOG] pocket hole machine ?
I have several Kreg jigs as well as the Castle TSM-12??,
my preference is to use the Castle as much as possible. The lower angle of the entry is very nice, and I appreciate having the pilot holes drilled all the way through (my Kreg jigs never seem to drill the pilot all the way).?
My machine utilizes the pair of Bosch routers, and while it is loud, it's no louder than a JDS Multirouter or any other router-based machine in my shop.? The TSM-12 is portable. I've only taken it on-site with me a handful of times, but it was handy to have in those situations. MUCH faster than a Kreg machine.? The only real downside to the Castle machine is that it's really dialed-in for 3/4"/19mm stock. To work with thinner stock you need to put shims between the stock and the table, and I think maximum thickness is ~1.5" / 41mm.? So, for my work flow I typically use my Mafell DD-40P and Festool Domino XL for alignment and so on, the Castle gets used for 3/4" stock, with the Kreg jigs in reserve for oddball parts and pieces that don't work with the Castle..... -- Tom Gensmer Heritage Home Renewals, LLC Minneapolis, MN |
David Luckensmeyer
Joe Jensen
Jason Holtz
imran
Bill Belanger