Re: vacuum clamp to hold down parts for sanding/routing works well
I've using them for about 10 years. The company is Australian. They been brought up here over the years. The parent company asked if they could post a pic of one of my setups for use on a Festool MFT on their website. The only way to beat their price is to make your own like Marty.?
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-------- Original message -------- From: alain pilon <alain.pilon@...> Date: 2020-06-21 1:01 p.m. (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: [FOG] vacuum clamp to hold down parts for sanding/routing works well
As anyone tried these from Lee Valley? I was thinking about getting a pair. Mostly for sanding and edge routing.?
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On Sun, Jun 21, 2020 at 11:22 AM marty shultz < azmartys@...> wrote: I think the vacuum system would work for some fence applications but not all applications because 1) the roughness of the wood can affect the clamping force and 2) the clamping force will affect how much the gasket material compresses which may change the dimension of the final cut.? If you always use sheet goods it would probably work great. 
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Re: vacuum clamp to hold down parts for sanding/routing works well
I haven't tried them but I think they would work well.? The only reason I didn't buy them is I wanted additional attachment options and the money was better spent on raw materials.
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Yes.? It works very well.? The sheet metal was stamped out like a series of the letter "P".? The center of the "P" had a hole for the screw .? The end of the louver, where the metal is attached, was cut out to accept the metal.?
The only downside to this design is the tolerances are tighter than using the staples.? The distance from the center to center of the louvers needs to be the same as the distance between the holes in the "P".??
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Yes, it’s called a hidden control arm. I show it being installed towards the back end of this video (I posted earlier)
But here’s a shorter one
Chris Edwards (407) 902-1358 cell
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So in this design, you just physically move one louvre and sheet metal moves all in sync?
Imran On Jun 21, 2020, at 12:44 PM, marty shultz < azmartys@...> wrote: ? I almost started a shutter company.? I bought the louver material because I didn't have a good dust/chip collection or the cutters.? I don't think I could have made the louvers much cheaper than I could buy them either.? I changed the design of the shutters because the control rod has inherent issues.? The staples are a bit of a pain to install, they come out with use and are difficult to repair, the control rod obstructs the view a bit, and makes it a little bit more difficult to spray the finish.? Instead of having a control rod in the center, I used a piece of sheet metal that was screwed into the back edge of the louver.? I was initially concerned about the wood tearing out of the end of the louver but the shutters have been installed for 28 years now.? I moved from the house 6 years ago and I didn't have any issues up to that point.? A few years ago I noticed a company was making the same design.? I just found a picture of their shutters.. 
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So in this design, you just physically move one louvre and sheet metal moves all in sync?
Imran
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On Jun 21, 2020, at 12:44 PM, marty shultz <azmartys@...> wrote: ? I almost started a shutter company.? I bought the louver material because I didn't have a good dust/chip collection or the cutters.? I don't think I could have made the louvers much cheaper than I could buy them either.?
I changed the design of the shutters because the control rod has inherent issues.? The staples are a bit of a pain to install, they come out with use and are difficult to repair, the control rod obstructs the view a bit, and makes it a little bit more difficult to spray the finish.? Instead of having a control rod in the center, I used a piece of sheet metal that was screwed into the back edge of the louver.? I was initially concerned about the wood tearing out of the end of the louver but the shutters have been installed for 28 years now.? I moved from the house 6 years ago and I didn't have any issues up to that point.? A few years ago I noticed a company was making the same design.? I just found a picture of their shutters..
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Re: vacuum clamp to hold down parts for sanding/routing works well
As anyone tried these from Lee Valley? I was thinking about getting a pair. Mostly for sanding and edge routing.?
??
On Sun, Jun 21, 2020 at 11:22 AM marty shultz < azmartys@...> wrote: I think the vacuum system would work for some fence applications but not all applications because 1) the roughness of the wood can affect the clamping force and 2) the clamping force will affect how much the gasket material compresses which may change the dimension of the final cut.? If you always use sheet goods it would probably work great. 
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I almost started a shutter company.? I bought the louver material because I didn't have a good dust/chip collection or the cutters.? I don't think I could have made the louvers much cheaper than I could buy them either.?
I changed the design of the shutters because the control rod has inherent issues.? The staples are a bit of a pain to install, they come out with use and are difficult to repair, the control rod obstructs the view a bit, and makes it a little bit more difficult to spray the finish.? Instead of having a control rod in the center, I used a piece of sheet metal that was screwed into the back edge of the louver.? I was initially concerned about the wood tearing out of the end of the louver but the shutters have been installed for 28 years now.? I moved from the house 6 years ago and I didn't have any issues up to that point.? A few years ago I noticed a company was making the same design.? I just found a picture of their shutters..
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Re: vacuum clamp to hold down parts for sanding/routing works well
I think the vacuum system would work for some fence applications but not all applications because 1) the roughness of the wood can affect the clamping force and 2) the clamping force will affect how much the gasket material compresses which may change the dimension of the final cut.? If you always use sheet goods it would probably work great.  
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Re: AD941 front fascia adjustment
Hi Sang,? Thanks for the info, could have sworn it was different on the previous machine but I must have been mistaken, not really a big deal.
I know I have complained about this planer in the past but the issues were real and now that Felder took care of the issue, stepped up and owned it the replacement has been fantastic.
I am pretty amazed at the cut quality and the ability to take 0.1mm off. I just recently furnished a Roubo bench and ran a 94” x 12” x 4” maple top through the jointer and planer, honestly I was worried I was going to blow it because of the weight of the top but all went well and no snipe at all from the jointer, I figured the bigger problem would come with the planer due to the smaller bed and the feed rollers, as long as I lifted towards the end of the cut no snipe and there was no snipe on the infeed part of the board.
I am getting some snipe from the planer on the tail end of the board sometimes but seems pretty random, thick/thin boards, wide/narrow. One thing I have noticed is that it seems to occur on a heavy cut ~2-3mm and not light ~1-.5mm also on a wider board maybe 5” or wider it can be more deep on one side than another. But again it’s not all the time.?
May just be the nature of the beast with no real pressure bar which is lacking on these combo machines (not just Felder). I have played with the feed rollers some which hasn’t seem to make a difference but have noticed that bowed wood can cause snipe where as if the bow is up snipe and then run it with the bow towards the table no snipe, of course this makes since though as when running it up as soon as it passes the infeed roller the end pops up back in the air and receives more of a cut.?
I think I am rambling on now...must have been surprise encounter with an adult Black ? last night on my way out of the shop...?
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Re: vacuum clamp to hold down parts for sanding/routing works well
I believe the newer Martin models do have vac hold downs on the slider.?
Patrick
Let’s see some pics of the pods close up. I’d love to make some of those. I’ve always thought about splurging on the festool set but always have better things to buy.?
This is just a wild thought but wonder if there would be a way to incorporate them into a slider outrigger fence. Kinda like how some CNC machines have the vac hold downs on the tables.?
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Re: vacuum clamp to hold down parts for sanding/routing works well
Let’s see some pics of the pods close up. I’d love to make some of those. I’ve always thought about splurging on the festool set but always have better things to buy.?
This is just a wild thought but wonder if there would be a way to incorporate them into a slider outrigger fence. Kinda like how some CNC machines have the vac hold downs on the tables.?
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Re: vacuum clamp to hold down parts for sanding/routing works well
Marty,
Thanks for taking the time to do the short videos and providing the details of the build.
It has been on my list of things and I may get to it in a yr of so ?. I already have the VacuPress pump.
I am sure I will ping you when I get there.
Imran
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On Jun 20, 2020, at 7:34 PM, marty shultz <azmartys@...> wrote: ? I made some vacuum clamps over the winter and I really like them.? It only takes me about 3 seconds to change from one part to another.?
Normally when I sand I would hold the parts with one hand while sanding/routing with the other hand.? Or, I might secure the work piece between bench dogs with a vice.? Or I might clamp the part to the table, but I would have to unclamp/reclamp to get to the entire edge/surface.? All these methods take more time than using a vacuum clamp.?And the clamp can mar the wood.? ?
Here are some short videos showing a few setups..??
Materials:? I used 2" alum pipe and these clamps:
??
3/4" thick HDPE plastic was used to make various shapes of vacuum fixtures (pods).? I purchased the plastic from a local source who had some small cutoffs. .? Some pods have foam on both sides with a through hole so the pod vacuum clamps to the table and to the material.? Some pods were screwed to a plate with a steel sleeve welded to it so the sleeve could be mounted on top of the alum pipe.? I used 1/4" tubing, high density foam for gasket material, foot pedal and check vales from joewoodworker.com.? I bought other quick disconnect fittings from amazon.? they aren't the best quality though.? I also bought a used vacuum pump but you could use a venturi vacuum pump with your air compressor.
BTW - I got the idea from the Barth vakuusyst 3.15.? It is really nice but cost over $2.3K.???
Enjoy!
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G330 Egebander documentation
Hello there,
I?ve bought a 2014 Felder G 330 edgebander. Does anyone have the operator?s manual or a link where I can find it.?
I would like to know the service intervals, oil to use, things to watch, etc...
Thanks in advance.
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Re: AD941 front fascia adjustment
My 2019 AD941 is the same, FWIW.?
Side note: After about 6 months of just sitting there in my shop, I finally turned it on yesterday and did some planing - what a nice machine! I was using a little 13" Delta bench top before so not in the same class, but I was able to take 5 thousands off in a finish pass on two pieces and they were perfectly matched. I haven't checked anything on the jointer tables but my plan is to run a few pieces and if they're square and flat, I'm not messin' with it...
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I will soon again be making plantation shutters. ?Around 15-17 years ago, I made them. ?There was a very good how-to article in American Woodworker at the time. ?I still have it. ?I ended up going to a supplier who had the 3 1/2 inch louvers already made, and I plan to use pre-made louvers again even though I have a shaper. ?They will be painted white. ?If I was going to have a very nice natural wood finish, then that would be different.
What was most involved was making the jigs. ?One jig held the louvers so a hole could made for the louver pins (floor model drill press, rare time the table was towards the floor), another jig held the louvers and a Senco staple gun so staples could be placed in the louvers, and another jig held a staple gun and the louvers and the tilt rod so that the tilt rod could be connected to the louvers. ?Once the jigs were made, the work pieces would just be DeStaco clamped to the jig, the staple gun was held in place set to drive the staple at the proper depth, and you just fired the staple. ?Nice reward for all of the effort of making the jigs. ?I still have the jigs, but will use the Rockler jig and a hand held drill for the holes for the louver pins.
I guess Rockler sells metal connectors, but I think the staples are nicer. ?Personal opinion.
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Re: AD941 front fascia adjustment
Alex, no plans to mess with it.
Mac, thought about that as my scm was that way but the guard on the AD941 is integrated into that piece, it’s really not that big of a deal?
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On Jun 20, 2020, at 2:46 PM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
? If it bothers you take it off and lift the tables individually. Designing and building for 47 years On Jun 20, 2020, at 1:02 PM, Alex Bowlds <aabj@...> wrote:
? Hey Mark,
You mentioned it is working just great, and you don’t want to mess up a good thing. ?My recommendation is Take your own advice. The old adage applies here “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”. LOL
Alex On Jun 20, 2020, at 5:36 AM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? I didn’t know what else to call it so I am going with fascia, it should sit below the tables right? I never noticed catching that edge with timber on the first AD941 and on the replacement I am.?
I remember the tech having an issue for like an hour where after he adjusted the tables to near perfection every time he tightened down the facia (reinstalled and tightened in the planer position) it threw off the adjustment, when I was assisting him I noticed that the in-feed table when in the upright position was not coplanar with the outfeed, it was tilted back farther. Once we adjusted the stop so that the infeed and outfeed tables were coplanar and the fascia was reinstalled and tightened down it all worked perfect, so thinking that when the fascia was previously installed with the tables not coplanar it it locked them into an undesirable position.
So before i start fiddling with the fascia to adjust it below (if it is suppose to be that way) I wanted to check as everything is working beautiful and I don’t want to mess up a good thing...
<image0.jpeg> <image1.jpeg> <image2.jpeg>
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vacuum clamp to hold down parts for sanding/routing works well
I made some vacuum clamps over the winter and I really like them.? It only takes me about 3 seconds to change from one part to another.?
Normally when I sand I would hold the parts with one hand while sanding/routing with the other hand.? Or, I might secure the work piece between bench dogs with a vice.? Or I might clamp the part to the table, but I would have to unclamp/reclamp to get to the entire edge/surface.? All these methods take more time than using a vacuum clamp.?And the clamp can mar the wood.? ?
Here are some short videos showing a few setups..??
Materials:? I used 2" alum pipe and these clamps:
??
3/4" thick HDPE plastic was used to make various shapes of vacuum fixtures (pods).? I purchased the plastic from a local source who had some small cutoffs. .? Some pods have foam on both sides with a through hole so the pod vacuum clamps to the table and to the material.? Some pods were screwed to a plate with a steel sleeve welded to it so the sleeve could be mounted on top of the alum pipe.? I used 1/4" tubing, high density foam for gasket material, foot pedal and check vales from joewoodworker.com.? I bought other quick disconnect fittings from amazon.? they aren't the best quality though.? I also bought a used vacuum pump but you could use a venturi vacuum pump with your air compressor.
BTW - I got the idea from the Barth vakuusyst 3.15.? It is really nice but cost over $2.3K.???
Enjoy!
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Re: AD941 front fascia adjustment
If it bothers you take it off and lift the tables individually. Designing and building for 47 years
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On Jun 20, 2020, at 1:02 PM, Alex Bowlds <aabj@...> wrote:
? Hey Mark,
You mentioned it is working just great, and you don’t want to mess up a good thing. ?My recommendation is Take your own advice. The old adage applies here “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”. LOL
Alex On Jun 20, 2020, at 5:36 AM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? I didn’t know what else to call it so I am going with fascia, it should sit below the tables right? I never noticed catching that edge with timber on the first AD941 and on the replacement I am.?
I remember the tech having an issue for like an hour where after he adjusted the tables to near perfection every time he tightened down the facia (reinstalled and tightened in the planer position) it threw off the adjustment, when I was assisting him I noticed that the in-feed table when in the upright position was not coplanar with the outfeed, it was tilted back farther. Once we adjusted the stop so that the infeed and outfeed tables were coplanar and the fascia was reinstalled and tightened down it all worked perfect, so thinking that when the fascia was previously installed with the tables not coplanar it it locked them into an undesirable position.
So before i start fiddling with the fascia to adjust it below (if it is suppose to be that way) I wanted to check as everything is working beautiful and I don’t want to mess up a good thing...
<image0.jpeg> <image1.jpeg> <image2.jpeg>
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Re: AD941 front fascia adjustment
Hey Mark,
You mentioned it is working just great, and you don’t want to mess up a good thing. ?My recommendation is Take your own advice. The old adage applies here “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”. LOL
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 20, 2020, at 5:36 AM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? I didn’t know what else to call it so I am going with fascia, it should sit below the tables right? I never noticed catching that edge with timber on the first AD941 and on the replacement I am.?
I remember the tech having an issue for like an hour where after he adjusted the tables to near perfection every time he tightened down the facia (reinstalled and tightened in the planer position) it threw off the adjustment, when I was assisting him I noticed that the in-feed table when in the upright position was not coplanar with the outfeed, it was tilted back farther. Once we adjusted the stop so that the infeed and outfeed tables were coplanar and the fascia was reinstalled and tightened down it all worked perfect, so thinking that when the fascia was previously installed with the tables not coplanar it it locked them into an undesirable position.
So before i start fiddling with the fascia to adjust it below (if it is suppose to be that way) I wanted to check as everything is working beautiful and I don’t want to mess up a good thing...
<image0.jpeg> <image1.jpeg> <image2.jpeg>
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Re: Anyone have a CF 741? Looking for a review
I have a 2007 CF741. ?It is a great machine and it has definitely upped my woodworking. ?What do I like? ?The accuracy. ?Mac’s clamps. ?Brian’s parallel guides. Mine is a 741 professional. ?What do I wish I had? ?If I had the space, separates. ?A longer slider. The rip/jointer fence is a bit flimsy.
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Anyone have a newer CF 741? Was looking for some reviews on one.? for those who may own one what are the likes and dislikes?
would you buy it again? Watched the hot tub build video the other day thought it was really versatile with being able to use a power feeder on the shaper, saw and jointer. Instead of needing 3 or not even having the capability of it.?
I know sometimes Change over time could be a pain and could be a dislike but as a hobbiest it’s a give and take situation.?
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marty shultz
imran
Sang Luu