Re: Replacement Nordfab Seal Material
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On Tue, Feb 18, 2020 at 10:01 AM David Davies via Groups.Io <myfinishingtouch= [email protected]> wrote: All, ? ?I've noticed as I've been reconfiguring my Nordfab duct work that some of the seals on the QF clamps are pretty thin.? Has anybody found a replacement seal for the QF clamps? Thanks, Dave
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
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Re: I did something stupid!
I would offer a few points of clarification about all this:
1) People often refer to PP "manufactured leg", but being manufactured isn't the important point.? The PP produces Delta 3 Phase, which by definition has one leg at 208v to ground, and two legs at 120v to ground.? The 208v leg is called the "high leg."??
2) The high leg conductor is to be red or orange.? ?In fact, some people call it the "red leg" because of this.
?
3) NEC says the high leg must be the B phase on panels:
408.3(E) Phase Arrangement. The phase arrangement on 3-phase buses shall be A, B, C from front to back, top to bottom, or left to right, as viewed from the front of the switchboard or panelboard.?The B phase shall be that phase having the higher voltage to ground on 3-phase, 4-wire, delta-connected systems.??
4) NEMA receptacle lugs are labeled X, Y, Z.? ?There is no code spec for mapping phases A, B and C to NEMA lugs X, Y, and Z.? But common sense is that the "middle" phase be consistent.? ?So the Y lug should be the high leg.
5) For motors, it makes absolutely no difference whatsoever which phase is connected to what, because motors do not use the leg-to-ground current and so they never see the 208v.
6) If you have an electrical component that requires 120v supply-to-ground and you connect it a 208v source (such as a Delta high leg), it's a problem.? ?This problem is not because the supply is "manufactured" nor because it's not "stable".? The problem is that it's the wrong voltage.?
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Woot. I love feedback on items like this. Love adding ¡°tried and true¡± hardware to my arsenal!!!
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Re: Router Bushing Adapter
Is there any reason if you have the router spindle that you couldn't make a adapter for the bushing? I have the router spindle but haven't had a need for a bushing. The router spindle and the power is so much better cut and finish then any router table I've used.
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Replacement Nordfab Seal Material
All, ? ?I've noticed as I've been reconfiguring my Nordfab duct work that some of the seals on the QF clamps are pretty thin.? Has anybody found a replacement seal for the QF clamps? Thanks, Dave
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Felder overhead guard vs. riving knife mounted guard
I have and use both.? One of a Hammer K3 and the other on a KF700SP.? I am slightly leaning toward the over head guard.? On one hand, I like the simplicity of the K3's guard but hates it for dado cuts.? The dust collection isn't so bad since I leave mine loose so that it floats on the lumber during operation.? The over head guard works slightly better for dust collection, with a modification to the port, but heavy and cumbersome some times.? I am cutting dovetail tails on the KF now.? For large cabinet panels, it's a bit of a pain to get it out of the way.? It is also a pain to get it out of the way to flip the power feeder up and down for the KF700SP.? I think the over head guard has the advantage in collecting dust.? That cuts down on my time cleaning, so it gets a large positive.??
Personally, I would not buy a KF 700 without the overhead guard.? The saw feels incomplete without it.
SW
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Re: I did something stupid!
While a PP manufactured leg is stable, because it is a delta configuration, the leg measures 208v to ground.? I still avoid using it on any control circuits.? My SCMI did not deal with it when I tried.? long story but the wires entering the machines were labeled
differently than at the other end entering the control box and I didn't verify with a meter.? My SCMI runs 240 into a transformer and 110 out.? The transformer needed the two line legs to operate the coils on the starters.? Other machines may be fine but a
problem avoided is better than one corrected in my world.? Dave
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Now you make me doubt my wiring.? It is true the PP T3 is very stable.? This was the main reason for buying a PP for me.? I deleted my PDF and plan to sort out my own wiring to make sure.? Thanks for pointing it out.
SW
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Re: I did something stupid!
Michael,? I recently installed the American Rotary ?ADX10 in my assembly shop at home for doing a little finial second operation stuff.? So all 3 hp and under and have been very happy with AR so far . Set up was easy and straight forward. They are local 75 mi away so I like that. I get 242 L1 and L2 and 248 T3 manufactured. Mac,,,? Designing and building for 47 years
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On Feb 18, 2020, at 8:43 AM, Michael Glaser <1michaelglaser1@...> wrote:
?Oh no prob. I haven¡¯t touched it since I made this initial posting. I just hope my first fub up didn¡¯t destroy the control panel/power drive.
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Re: I did something stupid!
Now you make me doubt my wiring.? It is true the PP T3 is very stable.? This was the main reason for buying a PP for me.? I deleted my PDF and plan to sort out my own wiring to make sure.? Thanks for pointing it out.
SW
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I've used those on several projects, usually fall front desk or bar type things. Glad they work as well in the up direction. They are actually made by Ferrari! Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765
Jason Hinged on the top with drawn brass butts, used hafele duo standard lift, really pleased with how they worked, much better than the normal gas lifts in my opinion.
On Tue, 18 Feb 2020, 15:30 Jason Holtz, < jholtzy@...> wrote: Jonathan, Nice work. Are those top little doors hinged on the top side? Did you use the Aventos or some other lift type thing? Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765
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Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Jason Hinged on the top with drawn brass butts, used hafele duo standard lift, really pleased with how they worked, much better than the normal gas lifts in my opinion.
On Tue, 18 Feb 2020, 15:30 Jason Holtz, < jholtzy@...> wrote: Jonathan, Nice work. Are those top little doors hinged on the top side? Did you use the Aventos or some other lift type thing? Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765
--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Michael,? ?I like no face frame, very snazzy . Mac,, Designing and building for 47 years
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On Feb 18, 2020, at 7:12 AM, Michael Glaser <1michaelglaser1@...> wrote:
? [Edited Message Follows]
On Tue, Feb 18, 2020 at 07:05 AM, jontathan samways wrote:
Michael
I make my own bumper stops, positioned at the back of the draw runner.
?
Most of my furniture is face framed, don't think the fast cap jig would?work as normally I work on a 2mm gap....also most of my work is high end and very low production so time is not so much of an issue?for me.?
?
Not ever had a sag issue but there's always a first....the kitchen I posted had a 1200mm wide draw unit on grass dynapro and deep draws, guess I will find out what happens when they start loading them up.
?
My preferred draw runners are solid oak...you get a little sag after 100years
?
?
I don¡¯t have the sag issue if I use bumpers. But if I use Blum tip-on or Grass Tipmatic, I have to subtract 1mm from by bottom measurements to get a 3mm reveal otherwise it sags 1mm. Everyone in the CMA has this same issue.
maybe it¡¯s something to do with the push to open mechanisms.
This is the kitchen I was talking about. I¡¯m actually headed there today. I¡¯ll send before and after of the bank of drawers with weight and without. It¡¯s all running on grass Dynapro with tipmatic. ? <dummyfile.0.part>
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Wondered when that would come up, been using that myself for years¡.
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Inset or overlay work identical, when parked there is no sag, the sag only occurs when the slide is extended. For drawer front adjustment I use the tried and true Blum fastening system. See below if unfamiliar.
[Edited Message Follows] I use blum movento and grass dynapro. Drawers still sag up to 2mm if heavy object are inside. But I only build frameless full overlay with 3mm reveals.? I am not sure how inset cabinetry works. If the runners pull the drawers box in and you¡¯re reliant on the bumpers stoping the drawers face and that¡¯s what makes the drawer face flush with the face frame. I could see how the drawer wouldn¡¯t sag.
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Re: I did something stupid!
Oh no prob. I haven¡¯t touched it since I made this initial posting. I just hope my first fub up didn¡¯t destroy the control panel/power drive.
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Re: I did something stupid!
Sorry Michael it was late control wire on Felder is brown I have pointed that out hundreds of time I don¡¯t know what I was thinking.? Mac,,, Designing and building for 47 years
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On Feb 18, 2020, at 1:03 AM, "david@..." <david@...> wrote:
? Nomenclature can be confusing here. ? The Phase Perfect manufactured leg is T3. ? American Rotary manufactured leg is T3 or ¡°C". ?For consistency throughout my shop, T3 is connected to L3 in the wall socket, and the brown wire from the Felder machine goes to L3 in the plug. ? T1 to L1, T2 to L2, T3 to L3 etc. ??
Shinta, your document shows the manufactured leg on L2. ??
Frankly it doesn¡¯t matter a hill of beans which lug on the plug and socket is the manufactured leg so long as the brown wire from the Felder cable goes to the manufactured leg. ?If you start swapping T1 and T2 in the wall sockets, some machines will run backwards. ? So consistency is important.
But connecting the PP T3 or AR T3 output to L2 in the receptacle is asking for confusion IMO. ?
The PP manufactured leg is very stable, whereas the AR (or Kay or whatever brand rotary converter you¡¯re using) manufactured leg can swing wildly even with the ¡°voltage stabilization¡± options installed. ? Keeping the brown lead from Felder equipment connected to the manufactured leg of a rotary phase converter is vital, otherwise the wild voltages will end up destroying or causing error conditions in the electronic positioning systems like DigiDrive and PowerDrive - been there, done that. David Best On Feb 17, 2020, at 10:28 PM, Shinta Wakahisa via Groups.Io < vnh84@...> wrote:
I uploaded a PDF of my plug wiring note to the document/electrical file upload section last week.? This applies to my 2019 and 2020 3-phase Felder machines.
SW
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Jonathan, Nice work. Are those top little doors hinged on the top side? Did you use the Aventos or some other lift type thing? Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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On Tue, Feb 18, 2020 at 07:05 AM, jontathan samways wrote:
Michael
I make my own bumper stops, positioned at the back of the draw runner.
?
Most of my furniture is face framed, don't think the fast cap jig would?work as normally I work on a 2mm gap....also most of my work is high end and very low production so time is not so much of an issue?for me.?
?
Not ever had a sag issue but there's always a first....the kitchen I posted had a 1200mm wide draw unit on grass dynapro and deep draws, guess I will find out what happens when they start loading them up.
?
My preferred draw runners are solid oak...you get a little sag after 100years
?
?
I don¡¯t have the sag issue if I use bumpers. But if I use Blum tip-on or Grass Tipmatic, I have to subtract 1mm from by bottom measurements to get a 3mm reveal otherwise it sags 1mm. Everyone in the CMA has this same issue.
maybe it¡¯s something to do with the push to open mechanisms.
This is the kitchen I was talking about. I¡¯m actually headed there today. I¡¯ll send before and after of the bank of drawers with weight and without. It¡¯s all running on grass Dynapro with tipmatic. ? 
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Michael I make my own bumper stops, positioned at the back of the draw runner.
Most of my furniture is face framed, don't think the fast cap jig would?work as normally I work on a 2mm gap....also most of my work is high end and very low production so time is not so much of an issue?for me.?
Not ever had a sag issue but there's always a first....the kitchen I posted had a 1200mm wide draw unit on grass dynapro and deep draws, guess I will find out what happens when they start loading them up.
My preferred draw runners are solid oak...you get a little sag after 100years
I don¡¯t have the sag issue if I use bumpers. But if I use Blum tip-on or Grass Tipmatic, I have to subtract 1mm from by bottom measurements to get a 3mm reveal otherwise it sags 1mm. Everyone in the CMA has this same issue.
maybe it¡¯s something to do with the push to open mechanisms.
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Re: Felder overhead guard vs. riving knife mounted guard
I do have the overhead on a K500 with the modified port opening to 4".
Below are the advantages of this solution compare to the riving knife mounted guard. Keep in mind I never had the later solution.
- Better dust extraction at 4" vs 2" port
- Might protect against the piece of wood tendency to kickback as there is no space for the stock to move upward if the guard is low enough and thus to get some acceleration
- Protect nicely against your body coming close to the main and scoring blades as it goes past the blades
- Can do angled cuts with the provided large "plastic side"
- Does not matter if you cut through the wood or do a buried cut as long as you riving knife is setup correctly
- Comes with the correct riving knife, no need to buy one separately.
Bill
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I don¡¯t have the sag issue if I use bumpers. But if I use Blum tip-on or Grass Tipmatic, I have to subtract 1mm from by bottom measurements to get a 3mm reveal otherwise it sags 1mm. Everyone in the CMA has this same issue.
maybe it¡¯s something to do with the push to open mechanisms.
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Michael Glaser
David
Jason Holtz
