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F700Z fence plate alignment issue
Has anyone here ever experienced fence plate alignment issues on their f700 series shaper? I¡¯ve had an F700z shaper in the shop since August 22¡¯. It appears that the outboard fence tapers in to the center making for a fence plate surface that¡¯s not coplanar. Upon closer inspection today I noticed that the plate has a bit of play when tight. I¡¯m able to flex the inside edge of the outboard fence out to be in line with the inboard fence. Is there an adjustment screw for the tightening mechanism that would sort this out or is my fence casting defective?? |
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Re: Potentiall gotcha with the cheap Chinese DRO's
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi Bryce,I did not do anything, I am glad it is working again. I am impressed that you were able to join two sections of the tape, I would not have likely even given it a go. Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations On Mar 31, 2025, at 7:49?PM, Bryce Comer via groups.io <bryce@...> wrote:
? Thanks for the reply Imran,
I checked the distance between the read head and the tape and it doesn't vary. What i did however just try, was zeroing the read head at 600mm and 800mm and then again at my known point of 86.1mm. Then when i put it back to 800mm it was reading correctly. I then put the fence to 700, then back to 100mm stopping to check every 100mm, and every time it was spot on regardless of which direction i was travelling. I really can't explain what happened. It's like it calibrated the readhead on the tape or something. Is that even possible? I thought the mag tape was based on alternating magnetic fields that were spaced 5mm or whatever apart. Again, i cannot explain it, but it looks as though the descrepancies i was getting are resolved.....Ok, after i wrote that, i realized i hadn't taken the fence off, put it back on and zeroed it again at my known point, so i just went and did that, and sure enough, it is reading dead on again! It looks like it's spot on thanks Imran, I don't know how you did it, but you did it!!! ?
I will have to keep an eye on this over the next few days or even weeks, and keep checking it. I will report back in a while and let you know what if anything i have found. Hopefully it is now resolved, and the issue doesn't occur again.
Regards,
Bryce
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https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw |
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Re: Potentiall gotcha with the cheap Chinese DRO's
Hi Brian,
Yes the magnetic tape is definitely tricky to set up after having cut it. You are right about putting it down then cutting it being problematic. That was the problem i ran into the first time i put the tape on for the rip side. Unfortunately there is no other option other than cutting it though so the jointer table can tilt up. What i found after some trial and error, was that i could carefully reduce the length of one end of the tape little by little until it read exactly as though it were one continuous piece. I guess to the exact distance of the next pole? Anyway, i seem to have it reading correctly now after messing about with it. Even after taking the fence off and putting it back on, (then zeroing it) it is reading spot on. I can't explain it, but for now at least, it seems to be working as it did before i replaced the mag tape.
Thanks for your help on this one.
Regards,
Bryce
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https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw |
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Re: Potentiall gotcha with the cheap Chinese DRO's
Thanks for the reply Imran,
I checked the distance between the read head and the tape and it doesn't vary. What i did however just try, was zeroing the read head at 600mm and 800mm and then again at my known point of 86.1mm. Then when i put it back to 800mm it was reading correctly. I then put the fence to 700, then back to 100mm stopping to check every 100mm, and every time it was spot on regardless of which direction i was travelling. I really can't explain what happened. It's like it calibrated the readhead on the tape or something. Is that even possible? I thought the mag tape was based on alternating magnetic fields that were spaced 5mm or whatever apart. Again, i cannot explain it, but it looks as though the descrepancies i was getting are resolved.....Ok, after i wrote that, i realized i hadn't taken the fence off, put it back on and zeroed it again at my known point, so i just went and did that, and sure enough, it is reading dead on again! It looks like it's spot on thanks Imran, I don't know how you did it, but you did it!!! ?
I will have to keep an eye on this over the next few days or even weeks, and keep checking it. I will report back in a while and let you know what if anything i have found. Hopefully it is now resolved, and the issue doesn't occur again.
Regards,
Bryce
--
https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw |
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Re: Potentiall gotcha with the cheap Chinese DRO's
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýI guess I am trying to ask if the issue occurs at any place along the path or in one location? You can zero it anywhere and check if it provides incorrect displacement. Double check that the read head is not loose and distance and angle with respect to the tape is within spec. If you have another piece of tape you can check the read head against it however if it is only off by 1 mm that could be hard. I have 4 DROs (3 M503) and all have the SS tape on top of mag tape with no issues. Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations On Mar 31, 2025, at 6:37?PM, Bryce Comer via groups.io <bryce@...> wrote:
? Hi Imran,
No the zero'd position seems to be exactly the same every time. It's either side of that point that it drifts out. I have tried using a Starret measure stix on the magnetic tape before and found the reader didn't read at all, so wondered if the metal tape was the issue.
Regards,
Bryce
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https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw |
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Re: Potentiall gotcha with the cheap Chinese DRO's
Hi Imran,
No the zero'd position seems to be exactly the same every time. It's either side of that point that it drifts out. I have tried using a Starret measure stix on the magnetic tape before and found the reader didn't read at all, so wondered if the metal tape was the issue.
Regards,
Bryce
--
https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw |
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Re: Potentiall gotcha with the cheap Chinese DRO's
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi Bryce, Is the issue only at the zero location? Is it possible that the mag tape got damaged somehow at that location? The cover plate should not have any effect. Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations On Mar 31, 2025, at 5:48?PM, Bryce Comer via groups.io <bryce@...> wrote:
? Hi all,
Just thought i would give everyone using the M503 digital readouts a heads up on a potential issue. This may simply be a case of "you get what you pay for" & i'm ok with that sometimes.?
I originally used one of these DRO's on the crosscut fence of my old machine. Well i took that one off my old machine when i sold it, and have been using it on my new machine for the past year or so. It's been dead on accurate the whole time, so much so, i decided to see if i could make something work for the rip side of my CF741. That too worked, however i was never happy with the way the mag tape just hung in no-man's land at the gap between the saw/shaper table, and the jointer outfeed table. I figured that would some day become an issue, but trying to find time to fix the issue wasn't easy. Finally i put some thought to it, and added some aluminum angle to the saw side as support, and put on a new mag tape to get the join slightly further towards the jointer side, since the old tape didn't line up exactly.
This is where cracks started to appear in the system. I can only assume this is an issue with the magnetic tape, since that is the only thing i have changed, but now i don't seem to be getting an accurate reading. I can "zero" the fence to my known position, but then either side of that point, it seems to creep out roughly 1mm either side. One thing i have added this time around was the thin metal adhesive backed strip that is supplied with the magnetic tape. I assume this is simply to protect the magnetic tape? Could this be the casue of this innacuracy? I guess that is where i should start, by removing it, and seeing if the accuracy improves. If not, then it will be the tape itself & i will try replacing that.
I will let you know how i get on, but wanted to give others a heads up, since this has basically rendered mine useless until i sort it out.
Regards,
Bryce
--
https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw <New Rip side DRO 1.jpg> <New Rip side DRO 3.jpg> |
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Potentiall gotcha with the cheap Chinese DRO's
Hi all,
Just thought i would give everyone using the M503 digital readouts a heads up on a potential issue. This may simply be a case of "you get what you pay for" & i'm ok with that sometimes.?
I originally used one of these DRO's on the crosscut fence of my old machine. Well i took that one off my old machine when i sold it, and have been using it on my new machine for the past year or so. It's been dead on accurate the whole time, so much so, i decided to see if i could make something work for the rip side of my CF741. That too worked, however i was never happy with the way the mag tape just hung in no-man's land at the gap between the saw/shaper table, and the jointer outfeed table. I figured that would some day become an issue, but trying to find time to fix the issue wasn't easy. Finally i put some thought to it, and added some aluminum angle to the saw side as support, and put on a new mag tape to get the join slightly further towards the jointer side, since the old tape didn't line up exactly.
This is where cracks started to appear in the system. I can only assume this is an issue with the magnetic tape, since that is the only thing i have changed, but now i don't seem to be getting an accurate reading. I can "zero" the fence to my known position, but then either side of that point, it seems to creep out roughly 1mm either side. One thing i have added this time around was the thin metal adhesive backed strip that is supplied with the magnetic tape. I assume this is simply to protect the magnetic tape? Could this be the casue of this innacuracy? I guess that is where i should start, by removing it, and seeing if the accuracy improves. If not, then it will be the tape itself & i will try replacing that.
I will let you know how i get on, but wanted to give others a heads up, since this has basically rendered mine useless until i sort it out.
Regards,
Bryce
--
https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw |
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Re: Totally unrelated question
I did the same "shadow" thing in my house with jambs and baseboards using Trimtex z bead [1]. It was not the easiest thing to find, but two drywall supply stores within forty minutes drive stocked it in 1/2 and would bring in other sizes if you were to buy a whole case. (Incidentally, I still have half a case lying around if anyone wants to haul it out.) If I were to do it again, I would try and use aluminum profile instead of the vinyl. The benefits of vinyl is three times less cost and much simpler installation. However, at least at my skill level, it is painfully hard to get consistently straight lines. Your mileage my vary. 1:?
Sent with secure email.
On Monday, March 31st, 2025 at 7:49 AM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
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Re: Totally unrelated question
The Z-clips are not for mounting panels, more like picture/object hanging. They make mounting systems for ceiling and wall panels as well. Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Monday, March 31, 2025 at 07:18:24 AM MST, Stan Blaszczyk via groups.io <blaszcsj@...> wrote:
[Edited Message Follows] Unless you can find a supply house with z bead in town that has it in stock you have to buy a whole case¡I spent a half day running around Cincinnati and calling all supply houses to find nothing.? To make a shadow gap I ended up using L bead to make a half inch shadow gap where I used flashing to cover up the exposed joint on a hood I am making for my kitchen where old and new drywall meet a vaulted wall section.?
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Stan Blaszczyk
Causal Maker of Stuff
Cincinnati, OH
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Re: Totally unrelated question
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHere are a couple pictures of a renovation job my neighborhood maybe 15 years ago first picture is 68 mm standard US store with a 56 mm jam then is the z profile and Plaster Second picture is a stationary sash 68 mm jams then Z profile than dry wall . In other words would to drywall with the reveal Mac,,, martin/campshure/co/llc Designing and building for 50 years On Mar 31, 2025, at 9:18?AM, Stan Blaszczyk via groups.io <blaszcsj@...> wrote:
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Re: Totally unrelated question
Unless you can find a supply house with z bead in town that has it in stock you have to buy a whole case¡I spent a half day running around Cincinnati and calling all supply houses to find nothing.?
To make a shadow gap I ended up using L bead to make a half inch shadow gap where I used flashing to cover up the exposed joint on a hood I am making for my kitchen where old and new drywall meet a vaulted wall section.?
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Stan Blaszczyk
Causal Maker of Stuff
Cincinnati, OH |
Dan Gavrilyuk
imran
Bryce Comer
