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The first tooling I'm looking at getting is exactly what you've listed. Have to save up for them.

I haven't really moved it since it got it in place. The casters I got have a big rubber foot that comes out and locks it in place. It gives my the ability to move it a little but here and there. I

That's what I used but the one that I had was still too tall for my drill and the clearance I had with the narrow pallet jack. I had to run to Lowe's before they closed and bought an Irwin 1/4" quick

My pleasure, is a standing offer ?.

Presumably you've seen Derek Cohen's fence addition. http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/ResawingOnTheBandsaw.html Shouldn't have issues with a short extrusion really, its

I upgraded from my Hammer N4400 to get more resaw capacity (12”->16”). ?The fence that comes with the FB610 is ok but pretty short. What are the Fine Felder Folks here using for a better resaw

Hi Chris, I have used this 3/4” bit on WRC with good results on my FD250. Cuts one direction only but faster than my Felder birdsmouth. I explored bits with Greg at Rangate but ended up trying this

Hi, I've been searching old threads for bit recommendations with limited success. I'm ?looking for a bit to cut 5/16 or 3/8 x ?2-2.5'' deep mortises in hardwood. My F 250 is single speed. I've had

Hi Tom, I can confirm that you can add chisel mortising and dowel boring because I did that on my 2nd hand FD250. It is 2011, 2.2KW, 3Ph single speed machine so not sure if things have changed over

Hey Tom I’m leaning towards ordering a fully “tricked out” machine for the reasons you mentioned. It seems to make the most sense. As for smaller furniture pieces I use the shaper origin to

Hi Andy, Yes, the mechanical DRO I mentioned is the counter for the system hand wheel. Once I got it calibrated it's been very precise. For single phase, yes there is a variable speed option. I try to

I love the custom table with extensions Amazing idea and execution. I will look into the dro Alan Jones Owner, HiFi Buys 770.931.0606 3157 Peachtree Rd NE | Atlanta, GA 30305 hifibuys.com Our highest

Hi Mariusz, I understood that but did not think of zooming in. Here is the answer. The part is thicker than the clamp. Imran Malik https://www.facebook.com/groups/362481112015700/?ref=share

Imran, you might have missed that Joe had mentioned that the panels are two sided and in this case the cutter is on the bottom. The Aigner touches and rides along the fence, but it does not touch the

Hi Joe, Thanks for the details and the pics. That knife projection is crazy, did not think anything like that would be possible or safe. I am kind of surprised with the use of Aigner clamping device

Here are more examples of dealing with small panels. I rarely make sleds for running these as it’s time consuming. The first pictures are small 7”X7” panels with deep cuts for a pair of 10’

Thanks, leemstradamus. Really kind of you to offer! I’m still planning out the electrical. I’ll reach out to you in case I’m still stuck with logistics.

I also prefer the Muiltirouter for general joinery applications, but the FD250 is probably a better choice if you’re building big heavy passage doors (which I do not). Adding a DRO in all three axis

Micheal, I have an out of level floor as well, so I used heavy duty leveling feet. When I saw the size of this beast, there was no thought moving this around in my shop. ??? Wade

I love my JPS multi router [email protected]> wrote: