Re: Forklift / Riggers in the Seattle area
I'm forklift qualified if you want to rent one.
?
Thanks, leemstradamus. Really kind of you to offer! I’m still planning out the electrical. I’ll reach out to you in case I’m still stuck with logistics.
|
I also prefer the Muiltirouter for general joinery applications, but the FD250 is probably a better choice if you’re building big heavy passage doors (which I do not). Adding a DRO in all three axis on the Multirouter really improves its usefulness as a general purpose mortising machine. ?And??has made some nice improvements to the Multirouter. ?. ?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Dec 4, 2024, at 11:41?AM, Alan Jones via groups.io <ajones@...> wrote:
I love my JPS multi router On Wed, Dec 4, 2024 at 1:36?PM Brett Wissel via <Brettwissel= [email protected]> wrote: Andy,?
We never settled on a permanent location in the shop, so it's handy that we kept the lead cord long and roll it to the projects, esp. when large and already sitting on a lift cart. Otherwise it sits away in a corner.?
It's a great tool for what it is, if you can afford it, buy it. My only alternative to consider would be a vertical style machine that still had enough capacity to be versatile, which I haven't seen exist outside of very expensive tools in metal machine shops, thus irrelevant.
To add applications - I enjoy the free-handed mortising options for clearing large areas or fitting new parts to as-built joints and old work.
Joe
You hit on some use cases I was thinking of that this machine seems to address. In particular euro door construction.?
I used the Hoffmann at Joes shop. It’s awesome for sure.?
I’ll email you separately regarding your f stop solution. Thank you for taking the time to reply ?
Andy,
I used the FD250 for door construction.
I added pneumatic clamps and a height DRO to make it easier and faster to use.
I also moved the control handle utilizing a custom bracket that Brian Lamb helped me design.? The bracket allowed the handle to not interfere with the right hand clamp riser. ?
For doweling the square chisel mortising feed attachment increases accuracy.? I tried square chisel mortising a few times but I think there are better ways than the FD250 to do those. ?
For double rows of dowels the height DRO was very useful.
The table on the FD250 is not wide enough to do mirror image dowels so doing mirror image dowel holes requires an offset from one side of the table to other to avoid flipping workpieces and any height inaccuracies that could cause. ?
I used the FD250 for mortising for Euro hardware in doors and windows.? The photo shows a two stage mortise.? The DRO made setting the height of the cutter easy.? I would measure off the top of the bit with a height gage then set the height of the bit to the center of the workpiece or whatever offset was necessary.
I used the fence on the f-rail of the table to do mirror image doweling.? The dowel templates were not referenced off center so deepening on what template I was using the center changed which the sliding miter gage could accommodate.? I found a good way to to make a game for mirror image doweling was to bore all the way through a block of wood then it could be flipped around to set the miter gage on the opposite end of the table.? I also made little f-rail stops to reference the miter gage so I could flip back and forth while doweling. ?
The f-rails and a bunch of extension tables made working on assembled doors and sash much easier. ?
The FD250 is a lot of bang for the buck.? But a mortising table like the Hoffman (sp?) that Joe Calhoon has is much faster.? There are other mortisers available for window and door construction but they all started around $20k.?
I saw a mortiser at LIGNA that solved most of the shortcomings of the FD250 but it was not available in the US.? Hess is the name. ???
Joe?
<IMG_8310.jpeg>
<IMG_8321.jpeg>
<DSCF3436.jpeg>
<IMG_6454.jpeg>
<IMG_8319.jpeg>
On Dec 4, 2024, at 7:47?AM, Andy via <andy.raynor08= [email protected]> wrote:
I’m interested in this machine and wanted to get user feedback.? As it stands now I like that this machine can dowel, slot mortise and chisel mortise.? It seems particularly useful for door construction in a smaller shop.?
What are some of the drawbacks?? Anything I should consider?? Thanks?
?
Andy?
--
Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
-- Alan Jones Owner, HiFi Buys
Our highest goal at HiFi Buys is to create a customer experience that is outstanding; so outstanding, in fact, that you want to tell others. Our customers are our best ambassadors and your reviews are vitally important to our growth and longevity. So if you are so inclined, we’d love if you could tell your friends, write a review and post your story on social media so others can enjoy the same great experience that you have. Thank you!
???
|
Re: Forklift / Riggers in the Seattle area
Micheal,
I have an out of level floor as well, so I used heavy duty leveling feet. ?When I saw the size of this beast, there was no thought moving this around in my shop. ????
Wade
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Dec 4, 2024, at 7:02?AM, Michael Garrison Stuber via groups.io <mtgstuber@...> wrote:
?
For me the casters were about raising the height of the machine
and being able to level it on an uneven floor.? If I actually want
to move the machine, I'll use my pallet jack.
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
On 12/4/2024 6:58 AM, Wade Dees via
groups.io wrote:
I always thought these machines are best left in
one spot. ?Since you have to get them dialed in just right. ?And
moving around, I would think could throw things out-of-wack.
Wade
?
I put casters on mine. Raining out the hike for 1/2" was
a pita though!
<20240909_231735.jpg>
|
I love my JPS multi router
On Wed, Dec 4, 2024 at 1:36?PM Brett Wissel via <Brettwissel= [email protected]> wrote: Andy,?
We never settled on a permanent location in the shop, so it's handy that we kept the lead cord long and roll it to the projects, esp. when large and already sitting on a lift cart. Otherwise it sits away in a corner.?
It's a great tool for what it is, if you can afford it, buy it. My only alternative to consider would be a vertical style machine that still had enough capacity to be versatile, which I haven't seen exist outside of very expensive tools in metal machine shops, thus irrelevant.
To add applications - I enjoy the free-handed mortising options for clearing large areas or fitting new parts to as-built joints and old work.
Joe
You hit on some use cases I was thinking of that this machine seems to address. In particular euro door construction.?
I used the Hoffmann at Joes shop. It’s awesome for sure.?
I’ll email you separately regarding your f stop solution. Thank you for taking the time to reply ?
Andy,
I used the FD250 for door construction.
I added pneumatic clamps and a height DRO to make it easier and faster to use.
I also moved the control handle utilizing a custom bracket that Brian Lamb helped me design.? The bracket allowed the handle to not interfere with the right hand clamp riser. ?
For doweling the square chisel mortising feed attachment increases accuracy.? I tried square chisel mortising a few times but I think there are better ways than the FD250 to do those. ?
For double rows of dowels the height DRO was very useful.
The table on the FD250 is not wide enough to do mirror image dowels so doing mirror image dowel holes requires an offset from one side of the table to other to avoid flipping workpieces and any height inaccuracies that could cause. ?
I used the FD250 for mortising for Euro hardware in doors and windows.? The photo shows a two stage mortise.? The DRO made setting the height of the cutter easy.? I would measure off the top of the bit with a height gage then set the height of the bit to the center of the workpiece or whatever offset was necessary.
I used the fence on the f-rail of the table to do mirror image doweling.? The dowel templates were not referenced off center so deepening on what template I was using the center changed which the sliding miter gage could accommodate.? I found a good way to to make a game for mirror image doweling was to bore all the way through a block of wood then it could be flipped around to set the miter gage on the opposite end of the table.? I also made little f-rail stops to reference the miter gage so I could flip back and forth while doweling. ?
The f-rails and a bunch of extension tables made working on assembled doors and sash much easier. ?
The FD250 is a lot of bang for the buck.? But a mortising table like the Hoffman (sp?) that Joe Calhoon has is much faster.? There are other mortisers available for window and door construction but they all started around $20k.?
I saw a mortiser at LIGNA that solved most of the shortcomings of the FD250 but it was not available in the US.? Hess is the name. ???
On Dec 4, 2024, at 7:47?AM, Andy via <andy.raynor08= [email protected]> wrote:
I’m interested in this machine and wanted to get user feedback.? As it stands now I like that this machine can dowel, slot mortise and chisel mortise.? It seems particularly useful for door construction in a smaller shop.?
What are some of the drawbacks?? Anything I should consider?? Thanks?
?
Andy?
--
Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
-- Alan Jones Owner, HiFi Buys
Our highest goal at HiFi Buys is to create a customer experience that is outstanding; so outstanding, in fact, that you want to tell others. Our customers are our best ambassadors and your reviews are vitally important to our growth and longevity. So if you are so inclined, we’d love if you could tell your friends, write a review and post your story on social media so others can enjoy the same great experience that you have. Thank you!
???
|
Andy,?
We never settled on a permanent location in the shop, so it's handy that we kept the lead cord long and roll it to the projects, esp. when large and already sitting on a lift cart. Otherwise it sits away in a corner.?
It's a great tool for what it is, if you can afford it, buy it. My only alternative to consider would be a vertical style machine that still had enough capacity to be versatile, which I haven't seen exist outside of very expensive tools in metal machine shops, thus irrelevant.
To add applications - I enjoy the free-handed mortising options for clearing large areas or fitting new parts to as-built joints and old work.
Joe
You hit on some use cases I was thinking of that this machine seems to address. In particular euro door construction.?
I used the Hoffmann at Joes shop. It’s awesome for sure.?
I’ll email you separately regarding your f stop solution. Thank you for taking the time to reply ?
Andy,
I used the FD250 for door construction.
I added pneumatic clamps and a height DRO to make it easier and faster to use.
I also moved the control handle utilizing a custom bracket that Brian Lamb helped me design.? The bracket allowed the handle to not interfere with the right hand clamp riser. ?
For doweling the square chisel mortising feed attachment increases accuracy.? I tried square chisel mortising a few times but I think there are better ways than the FD250 to do those. ?
For double rows of dowels the height DRO was very useful.
The table on the FD250 is not wide enough to do mirror image dowels so doing mirror image dowel holes requires an offset from one side of the table to other to avoid flipping workpieces and any height inaccuracies that could cause. ?
I used the FD250 for mortising for Euro hardware in doors and windows.? The photo shows a two stage mortise.? The DRO made setting the height of the cutter easy.? I would measure off the top of the bit with a height gage then set the height of the bit to the center of the workpiece or whatever offset was necessary.
I used the fence on the f-rail of the table to do mirror image doweling.? The dowel templates were not referenced off center so deepening on what template I was using the center changed which the sliding miter gage could accommodate.? I found a good way to to make a game for mirror image doweling was to bore all the way through a block of wood then it could be flipped around to set the miter gage on the opposite end of the table.? I also made little f-rail stops to reference the miter gage so I could flip back and forth while doweling. ?
The f-rails and a bunch of extension tables made working on assembled doors and sash much easier. ?
The FD250 is a lot of bang for the buck.? But a mortising table like the Hoffman (sp?) that Joe Calhoon has is much faster.? There are other mortisers available for window and door construction but they all started around $20k.?
I saw a mortiser at LIGNA that solved most of the shortcomings of the FD250 but it was not available in the US.? Hess is the name. ???
On Dec 4, 2024, at 7:47?AM, Andy via <andy.raynor08= [email protected]> wrote:
I’m interested in this machine and wanted to get user feedback.? As it stands now I like that this machine can dowel, slot mortise and chisel mortise.? It seems particularly useful for door construction in a smaller shop.?
What are some of the drawbacks?? Anything I should consider?? Thanks?
?
Andy?
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Joe
You hit on some use cases I was thinking of that this machine seems to address. In particular euro door construction.?
I used the Hoffmann at Joes shop. It’s awesome for sure.?
I’ll email you separately regarding your f stop solution. Thank you for taking the time to reply ?
Andy,
I used the FD250 for door construction.
I added pneumatic clamps and a height DRO to make it easier and faster to use.
I also moved the control handle utilizing a custom bracket that Brian Lamb helped me design.? The bracket allowed the handle to not interfere with the right hand clamp riser. ?
For doweling the square chisel mortising feed attachment increases accuracy.? I tried square chisel mortising a few times but I think there are better ways than the FD250 to do those. ?
For double rows of dowels the height DRO was very useful.
The table on the FD250 is not wide enough to do mirror image dowels so doing mirror image dowel holes requires an offset from one side of the table to other to avoid flipping workpieces and any height inaccuracies that could cause. ?
I used the FD250 for mortising for Euro hardware in doors and windows.? The photo shows a two stage mortise.? The DRO made setting the height of the cutter easy.? I would measure off the top of the bit with a height gage then set the height of the bit to the center of the workpiece or whatever offset was necessary.
I used the fence on the f-rail of the table to do mirror image doweling.? The dowel templates were not referenced off center so deepening on what template I was using the center changed which the sliding miter gage could accommodate.? I found a good way to to make a game for mirror image doweling was to bore all the way through a block of wood then it could be flipped around to set the miter gage on the opposite end of the table.? I also made little f-rail stops to reference the miter gage so I could flip back and forth while doweling. ?
The f-rails and a bunch of extension tables made working on assembled doors and sash much easier. ?
The FD250 is a lot of bang for the buck.? But a mortising table like the Hoffman (sp?) that Joe Calhoon has is much faster.? There are other mortisers available for window and door construction but they all started around $20k.?
I saw a mortiser at LIGNA that solved most of the shortcomings of the FD250 but it was not available in the US.? Hess is the name. ???
On Dec 4, 2024, at 7:47?AM, Andy via <andy.raynor08= [email protected]> wrote:
I’m interested in this machine and wanted to get user feedback.? As it stands now I like that this machine can dowel, slot mortise and chisel mortise.? It seems particularly useful for door construction in a smaller shop.?
What are some of the drawbacks?? Anything I should consider?? Thanks?
?
Andy?
|
Joe brings up an important aspect, alignment of mortices along the length of the stiles, one part to another. I got decent results by adding a center mark on a scrap of wood that I sandwiched between the table and metal stop. I mark only center line of mortice and allow the stops to control length. ? 
? Imran Malik ? ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] On Behalf Of bacchus6015 via groups.io Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2024 12:54 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [FOG] Felder FD250 ? Andy, For dowel boring I got carbide tipped boring bits from Greg at Rangate that are sized .1mm larger than the dowels. ?Joe Calhoon told me about these bits and they make doweling so much easier. ?The dowel does not have to be a tight fit, just an easy push in. ?There needs to be room for the glue for a strong joint so a very tight fit is not what you want. Also, when it comes to floating tenons the top/bottom alignment from one part to another is not going o be a tight fit. ?The alignment comes from an external reference like a clamping table or something. ?The strength of the floating tenon joint comes from the surface area of the tenon to workpiece contact not from the alignment of the top/bottom edge of the tenon/mortise. ? It's like on the domino when you do one mortise tight and the other half loose.
|
Andy,
For dowel boring I got carbide tipped boring bits from Greg at Rangate that are sized .1mm larger than the dowels. ?Joe Calhoon told me about these bits and they make doweling so much easier. ?The dowel does not have to be a tight fit, just an easy push in. ?There needs to be room for the glue for a strong joint so a very tight fit is not what you want.
Also, when it comes to floating tenons the top/bottom alignment from one part to another is not going o be a tight fit. ?The alignment comes from an external reference like a clamping table or something. ?The strength of the floating tenon joint comes from the surface area of the tenon to workpiece contact not from the alignment of the top/bottom edge of the tenon/mortise. ?
It's like on the domino when you do one mortise tight and the other half loose.
|
I've had a 250 since 1999 and it is one of the most versatile machines in the shop as it can do things that are hard to duplicate with standard boring machines.? Having said that, entry and passage doors were the primary purpose for my use, and I found the
250 OK but lacking when you need to cut 5/8" mortises in hardwoods.? I make doors with 2.5-3" x 6" floating tensons and you really need a stout machine to give accurate results in both long and end grain.? It is more time consuming than you would think but
still better than most alternatives.? I rehabbed a Bacci oscillating mortiser and use that exclusively for heavy mortises.? It is about 10x faster and more consistent.? I still kept my 250 as it can do many smaller jobs more quickly than setting up the Bacci.?
Your needs will dictate how much you like the machine.? you do need to find a comfortable height or a good back surgeon if you use it a lot.
Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I’m interested in this machine and wanted to get user feedback. ?As it stands now I like that this machine can dowel, slot mortise and chisel mortise. ?It seems particularly useful for door construction in a smaller shop.?
What are some of the drawbacks? ?Anything I should consider? ?Thanks?
?
Andy?
|
Re: Forklift / Riggers in the Seattle area
Are the casters height adjustable or do you level the machine by adjusting the stems on rhe casters the way the leveling feet do?
|
Hi Andy, Just saw Joe’s response but mine is typed so sorry for duplication. ? You need to order with mortising option. This adds rack & pinion (front/back) motion and a lever on the left side (standing behind in operator position). Still use joy stick on right side for left right. I bought mine used and added this by ordering parts from Felder. I also added square chisel option and dowel option. IIRC, it cost about $2K for all these options (pre covid). I just ordered the square chisel so have not tried it yet. ? I used Felder birds mouth bits on my first door which works in both directions but used a 3/4” carbide tipped drill on my second door and liked it better but should be used in one direction unless doing a cleanup pass. Here is a video of the ?” bit. 
? The rod with stops works for standard size doors. The 2 doors I have built were too tall so have not used them yet. ? I did not like eccentric clamp and now use pneumatic clamps from my table saw. These are crappy version of Mac’s clamps - I have to add this per Mac’s recommendation so no one thinks these are Mac’s clamps. I have a PN if you want to order the vertical post from Misumi to mount the clamp. I also have a spare because you really can’t mount the vertical rod in the provision provided on the joystick side of the table unless there is very limited left to right movement. ? 
? I also fashioned these stops so I don’t lose my widest mortice setting. One can add as many of these as needed to duplicate narrower mortices on the same project. These are cutoff from a PEX pipe. A more robust stop can be printed but this was quick. ?  
? I have many pictures and videos for both types of bits mentioned above. Just send me a DM if interested. ? Imran Malik ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] On Behalf Of Andy via groups.io Sent: Wednesday, December 04, 2024 10:47 AM To: [email protected]Subject: [FOG] Felder FD250 ? I’m interested in this machine and wanted to get user feedback. ?As it stands now I like that this machine can dowel, slot mortise and chisel mortise. ?It seems particularly useful for door construction in a smaller shop.? What are some of the drawbacks? ?Anything I should consider? ?Thanks?
|
Hey Tom thank you for this info. Is the mechanical DRO the same as the system hand wheel?? I don’t see that option listed anywhere.?
I like the slower speed option. I wonder if that’s available in single phase configurations.? I generally agree that a dedicated hollow chisel machine would normally outperform this machine, however since I don’t have a dedicated machine (I use either domino construction or a drill press to create mortises) I think this machine fits the bill.
Hi Andy,?
?
I have a FD-250 and get a lot of use out of it. There are definitely heavier/more capable machines out there, but for the size, price, and versatility, I think it's a worthwhile machine.?
?
I ordered mine in the following configuration:
-- 3ph 240V motor
-- 2-speed option (3,000 rpm/1,500 rpm)
-- "50" Forward/Reverse
-- "60" Chisel mortising package
-- "70" Dowel boring kit
-- "80" Miter fence
-- "90" Rolling Carriage
-- "100" Longitudinal Stops
-- 01.1.202 Mechanical DRO for height
-- I worked with Mac Campshure to order a pneumatic clamp for securing the work
?
In general use, I really like the machine. The mechanical DRO is great for very precisely setting the elevation of the cutter. I appreciate that the table remains stationary (the motor moves), which allows for processing larger door and window parts.?
?
The chisel mortising package is worthwhile, if for no other reason than the rack and pinion drive lever is a really nice "quality of life" element. As already pointed out, a dedicated hollow chisel mortiser will outperform the FD-250 for larger chisels and/or harder woods, but for softer woods and/or smaller chisels it works great. ~5 minutes is a good estimate on conversion time.?
?
The dowel boring kit is another worthwhile accessory. With some fine-tuning, I was able to get the 16mm OC template perfectly centered on the table, so I can use it and the cast iron stop block to index dowels for door/window work, just a matter of keeping track of orientations.?
?
I have a very small shop, and went so far as to sell my drill press, as the FD-250 covers most of my miscellaneous drilling tasks.?
?
As pointed out before, there are certainly more capable machines, but I think the FD-250 fits a nice value niche.?
?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
Hi Andy,?
?
I have a FD-250 and get a lot of use out of it. There are definitely heavier/more capable machines out there, but for the size, price, and versatility, I think it's a worthwhile machine.?
?
I ordered mine in the following configuration:
-- 3ph 240V motor
-- 2-speed option (3,000 rpm/1,500 rpm)
-- "50" Forward/Reverse
-- "60" Chisel mortising package
-- "70" Dowel boring kit
-- "80" Miter fence
-- "90" Rolling Carriage
-- "100" Longitudinal Stops
-- 01.1.202 Mechanical DRO for height
-- I worked with Mac Campshure to order a pneumatic clamp for securing the work
?
In general use, I really like the machine. The mechanical DRO is great for very precisely setting the elevation of the cutter. I appreciate that the table remains stationary (the motor moves), which allows for processing larger door and window parts.?
?
The chisel mortising package is worthwhile, if for no other reason than the rack and pinion drive lever is a really nice "quality of life" element. As already pointed out, a dedicated hollow chisel mortiser will outperform the FD-250 for larger chisels and/or harder woods, but for softer woods and/or smaller chisels it works great. ~5 minutes is a good estimate on conversion time.?
?
The dowel boring kit is another worthwhile accessory. With some fine-tuning, I was able to get the 16mm OC template perfectly centered on the table, so I can use it and the cast iron stop block to index dowels for door/window work, just a matter of keeping track of orientations.?
?
I have a very small shop, and went so far as to sell my drill press, as the FD-250 covers most of my miscellaneous drilling tasks.?
?
As pointed out before, there are certainly more capable machines, but I think the FD-250 fits a nice value niche.?
?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
Hey Andrew thanks for this. According to Felder phase doesn’t matter.? The single phase machine can do all three. I’ll definitely double check that but the quote I have includes square chisel setup.?
On Wed, Dec 4, 2024 at 11:21?AM Andrew Goodwin via <andybgood= [email protected]> wrote: Hi Andy,
?
I’m not a current user of this, but almost bought it last year and did a lot of research on it.? Manor wood has a great video about it on his YouTube channel. I might go for one next year.
?
If you want to square mortise, you have to have the 3 phase version and get the optional chuck.? And there is a 5 min changeover time for that chuck.
?
Hope this helps.
?
Andrew Goodwin
?
?
|
Andy,
I used the FD250 for door construction.
I added pneumatic clamps and a height DRO to make it easier and faster to use.
I also moved the control handle utilizing a custom bracket that Brian Lamb helped me design. ?The bracket allowed the handle to not interfere with the right hand clamp riser. ?
For doweling the square chisel mortising feed attachment increases accuracy. ?I tried square chisel mortising a few times but I think there are better ways than the FD250 to do those. ?
For double rows of dowels the height DRO was very useful.
The table on the FD250 is not wide enough to do mirror image dowels so doing mirror image dowel holes requires an offset from one side of the table to other to avoid flipping workpieces and any height inaccuracies that could cause. ?
I used the FD250 for mortising for Euro hardware in doors and windows. ?The photo shows a two stage mortise. ?The DRO made setting the height of the cutter easy. ?I would measure off the top of the bit with a height gage then set the height of the bit to the center of the workpiece or whatever offset was necessary.
I used the fence on the f-rail of the table to do mirror image doweling. ?The dowel templates were not referenced off center so deepening on what template I was using the center changed which the sliding miter gage could accommodate. ?I found a good way to to make a game for mirror image doweling was to bore all the way through a block of wood then it could be flipped around to set the miter gage on the opposite end of the table. ?I also made little f-rail stops to reference the miter gage so I could flip back and forth while doweling. ?
The f-rails and a bunch of extension tables made working on assembled doors and sash much easier. ?
The FD250 is a lot of bang for the buck. ?But a mortising table like the Hoffman (sp?) that Joe Calhoon has is much faster. ?There are other mortisers available for window and door construction but they all started around $20k.?
I saw a mortiser at LIGNA that solved most of the shortcomings of the FD250 but it was not available in the US. ?Hess is the name. ???
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Dec 4, 2024, at 7:47?AM, Andy via groups.io <andy.raynor08@...> wrote:
I’m interested in this machine and wanted to get user feedback. ?As it stands now I like that this machine can dowel, slot mortise and chisel mortise. ?It seems particularly useful for door construction in a smaller shop.?
What are some of the drawbacks? ?Anything I should consider? ?Thanks?
?
Andy?
|
Hi Andy,
?
I’m not a current user of this, but almost bought it last year and did a lot of research on it. ?Manor wood has a great video about it on his YouTube channel. I might go for one next year.
?
If you want to square mortise, you have to have the 3 phase version and get the optional chuck. ?And there is a 5 min changeover time for that chuck.
?
Hope this helps.
?
Andrew Goodwin
?
?
|
I’m interested in this machine and wanted to get user feedback. ?As it stands now I like that this machine can dowel, slot mortise and chisel mortise. ?It seems particularly useful for door construction in a smaller shop.?
What are some of the drawbacks? ?Anything I should consider? ?Thanks?
?
Andy?
|
Re: Forklift / Riggers in the Seattle area
To add to Michael’s point, there is not really a great, convenient and safe place to grab a hold to push/pull the saw. Slider is off limits so is the extension on rip side. If there is an extension on outfeed that blocks off some possibilities. Rip fence bar is stout but I personally wouldn’t not use it either. What left is low and not super convenient.
My Dual 51 is even worse in this aspect. A PJ is convenient and safe. Felder mobility kit is another option but I wouldn’t have it, if I am busting my shins all day on the bracket.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Dec 4, 2024, at 10:01?AM, Michael Garrison Stuber via groups.io <mtgstuber@...> wrote: ?
For me the casters were about raising the height of the machine
and being able to level it on an uneven floor.? If I actually want
to move the machine, I'll use my pallet jack.
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
On 12/4/2024 6:58 AM, Wade Dees via
groups.io wrote:
I always thought these machines are best left in
one spot. ?Since you have to get them dialed in just right. ?And
moving around, I would think could throw things out-of-wack.
Wade
?
I put casters on mine. Raining out the hike for 1/2" was
a pita though!
<20240909_231735.jpg>
|
Re: Forklift / Riggers in the Seattle area
For me the casters were about raising the height of the machine
and being able to level it on an uneven floor.? If I actually want
to move the machine, I'll use my pallet jack.
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
On 12/4/2024 6:58 AM, Wade Dees via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I always thought these machines are best left in
one spot. ?Since you have to get them dialed in just right. ?And
moving around, I would think could throw things out-of-wack.
Wade
?
I put casters on mine. Raining out the hike for 1/2" was
a pita though!
<20240909_231735.jpg>
|
Re: Forklift / Riggers in the Seattle area
I realize it's a little late for you, but I found that using an
electrician's step drill worked really well.? I used my pallet
jack and some cribbing to lift my unit up.? From there I used a
right angle drill and a #1 step drill.
--
Michael Garrison Stuber
On 12/4/2024 6:49 AM, Leemstradamus via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
[Edited Message Follows]
I put casters on mine. Reaming out the hole for 1/2" was a
pita though! 
|
David P. Best
imran
Ron Pomeroy
Tom Gensmer