Re: Efficient Method to Wrap Plywood with Solid Wood
I use a Bosch Colt router with a similar offset base for lipping for years prior to getting the Virutex lipping planer. I still pull it out on occasion for a few things. I like to leave it a whisker high and then plane flush with my block plane. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Re: Efficient Method to Wrap Plywood with Solid Wood
James, I am with you. I am not good enough with plane to do this type of planning with confidence, so cannot risk nicking the ply. ?
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From: [email protected] On Behalf Of James Zhu Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2022 4:20 PM To: Felder Owner Group < [email protected]> Subject: Re: [FOG] Efficient Method to Wrap Plywood with Solid Wood ? I have to admit that I need to improve my hand planing skill :)? ?I am very comfortable using power tools with the right technique. ? On Thu, Feb 17, 2022 at 3:55 PM Mark Koury <mhkoury@...> wrote: Well, you could groove and spline - then use a hand plane to flush it. Mark
? I also have an MFK700 router.? You could modify the base like Paul Marcel did (??), he used this 8mm bit??.
The problem is the max cutting width is still limited to 25mm using the above 8mm router bit. Using the 1 1/4" dish carving bit with the router, there is no width limit for the edge trimming.?
? Interesting technique. Thanks for sharing. ? When I made the MDF top (3" thick) for my workbench last year, I used Ultimate Router base with 1 1/4" dish carving bit to flush trim the 1" thick hard maple skirt board, it worked really well.
I put 2 pieces of paper under the router bit to set the initial routing depth. After the initial trimming, I put 1 piece of paper under the router bit, and did the final trimming.
Basically, my Festool OF1400 with the ultimate router base plus the dish carving bit is my "Lamello" lipping planer :) <IMG_1730.JPG>
<IMG_1729.JPG> ? Thanks Mike. No lipping planer. I did have a PC biscuit jointer but did not like the consistency and moved to Domino and sold the PC joiner.
On Feb 17, 2022, at 2:51 PM, Mike S <Mike@...> wrote:
? Can you borrow a lipping planer?? Perfect for such jobs.? To attach, sounds like an application similar to how I like installing face frames, I use biscuit jointer referenced from adjustable plate to plough groove and them random biscuits on the applied edge to freely adjust left/right (it leaves a consistent reveal).? Make sense?? ? I need to make a replacement table top for a friend. He wants ply because he is going to paint it. Finished size is 20¡±x53¡±. So plan to use 3/4¡± ply to which I will apply 1¡± wide solid wood edging. Edging will be profiled. Mitered corners for edging. I can round the sharp corners.?
I was excited to finally use the MFK to trim edging flush with the top but it can only do 5/8¡± (3/4¡± tops) wide edging. That means I have to clamp a wide board to the edge (for stabilizing a router) and use a flush trim bit.
I am thinking of a slot and tenon interface, done on the shaper, to apply the edging. I can offset the cutter by a few thousands to ensure edging will be proud of the top and then just sand it. Does this sound like a good plan?
I would like to profile before gluing the edging to avoid blow out (during profiling) and the slot/tenon arrangement sound attractive for that reason as well. Maybe just able to use painters tape to glue the edging.
Imran
?
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Re: Efficient Method to Wrap Plywood with Solid Wood
I have to admit that I need to improve my hand planing skill :)? ?I am very comfortable using power tools with the right technique.
James
On Thu, Feb 17, 2022 at 3:55 PM Mark Koury < mhkoury@...> wrote: Well, you could groove and spline - then use a hand plane to flush it. Mark
I also have an MFK700 router.?
You could modify the base like Paul Marcel did (??), he used this 8mm bit??.
The problem is the max cutting width is still limited to 25mm using the above 8mm router bit. Using the 1 1/4" dish carving bit with the router, there is no width limit for the edge trimming.?
James
James,
Interesting technique. Thanks for sharing.
Imran ? Imran,
When I made the MDF top (3" thick) for my workbench last year, I used Ultimate Router base with 1 1/4" dish carving bit to flush trim the 1" thick hard maple skirt board, it worked really well.
I put 2 pieces of paper under the router bit to set the initial routing depth. After the initial trimming, I put 1 piece of paper under the router bit, and did the final trimming.
Basically, my Festool OF1400 with the ultimate router base plus the dish carving bit is my "Lamello" lipping planer :)
<IMG_1735.JPG>
<IMG_1730.JPG><IMG_1729.JPG>
James Thanks Mike. No lipping planer. I did have a PC biscuit jointer but did not like the consistency and moved to Domino and sold the PC joiner.
Imran? On Feb 17, 2022, at 2:51 PM, Mike S < Mike@...> wrote: ? Can you borrow a lipping planer?? Perfect for such jobs.? To attach, sounds like an application similar to how I like installing face frames, I use biscuit jointer referenced from adjustable plate to plough groove and them random biscuits on the applied edge to freely adjust left/right (it leaves a consistent reveal).? Make sense?? I need to make a replacement table top for a friend. He wants ply because he is going to paint it. Finished size is 20¡±x53¡±. So plan to use 3/4¡± ply to which I will apply 1¡± wide solid wood edging. Edging will be profiled. Mitered corners for edging. I can round the sharp corners.?
I was excited to finally use the MFK to trim edging flush with the top but it can only do 5/8¡± (3/4¡± tops) wide edging. That means I have to clamp a wide board to the edge (for stabilizing a router) and use a flush trim bit.
I am thinking of a slot and tenon interface, done on the shaper, to apply the edging. I can offset the cutter by a few thousands to ensure edging will be proud of the top and then just sand it. Does this sound like a good plan?
I would like to profile before gluing the edging to avoid blow out (during profiling) and the slot/tenon arrangement sound attractive for that reason as well. Maybe just able to use painters tape to glue the edging.
Imran
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Re: Efficient Method to Wrap Plywood with Solid Wood
Well, you could groove and spline - then use a hand plane to flush it.
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Show quoted text
I also have an MFK700 router.?
You could modify the base like Paul Marcel did (??), he used this 8mm bit??.
The problem is the max cutting width is still limited to 25mm using the above 8mm router bit. Using the 1 1/4" dish carving bit with the router, there is no width limit for the edge trimming.?
James
James,
Interesting technique. Thanks for sharing.
Imran ? Imran,
When I made the MDF top (3" thick) for my workbench last year, I used Ultimate Router base with 1 1/4" dish carving bit to flush trim the 1" thick hard maple skirt board, it worked really well.
I put 2 pieces of paper under the router bit to set the initial routing depth. After the initial trimming, I put 1 piece of paper under the router bit, and did the final trimming.
Basically, my Festool OF1400 with the ultimate router base plus the dish carving bit is my "Lamello" lipping planer :)
<IMG_1735.JPG>
<IMG_1730.JPG><IMG_1729.JPG>
James Thanks Mike. No lipping planer. I did have a PC biscuit jointer but did not like the consistency and moved to Domino and sold the PC joiner.
Imran? On Feb 17, 2022, at 2:51 PM, Mike S < Mike@...> wrote: ? Can you borrow a lipping planer?? Perfect for such jobs.? To attach, sounds like an application similar to how I like installing face frames, I use biscuit jointer referenced from adjustable plate to plough groove and them random biscuits on the applied edge to freely adjust left/right (it leaves a consistent reveal).? Make sense?? I need to make a replacement table top for a friend. He wants ply because he is going to paint it. Finished size is 20¡±x53¡±. So plan to use 3/4¡± ply to which I will apply 1¡± wide solid wood edging. Edging will be profiled. Mitered corners for edging. I can round the sharp corners.?
I was excited to finally use the MFK to trim edging flush with the top but it can only do 5/8¡± (3/4¡± tops) wide edging. That means I have to clamp a wide board to the edge (for stabilizing a router) and use a flush trim bit.
I am thinking of a slot and tenon interface, done on the shaper, to apply the edging. I can offset the cutter by a few thousands to ensure edging will be proud of the top and then just sand it. Does this sound like a good plan?
I would like to profile before gluing the edging to avoid blow out (during profiling) and the slot/tenon arrangement sound attractive for that reason as well. Maybe just able to use painters tape to glue the edging.
Imran
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Re: Efficient Method to Wrap Plywood with Solid Wood
I also have an MFK700 router.?
You could modify the base like Paul Marcel did ( ), he used this 8mm bit? .
The problem is the max cutting width is still limited to 25mm using the above 8mm router bit. Using the 1 1/4" dish carving bit with the router, there is no width limit for the edge trimming.?
James
James,
Interesting technique. Thanks for sharing.
Imran ? Imran,
When I made the MDF top (3" thick) for my workbench last year, I used Ultimate Router base with 1 1/4" dish carving bit to flush trim the 1" thick hard maple skirt board, it worked really well.
I put 2 pieces of paper under the router bit to set the initial routing depth. After the initial trimming, I put 1 piece of paper under the router bit, and did the final trimming.
Basically, my Festool OF1400 with the ultimate router base plus the dish carving bit is my "Lamello" lipping planer :)
 
James Thanks Mike. No lipping planer. I did have a PC biscuit jointer but did not like the consistency and moved to Domino and sold the PC joiner.
Imran? On Feb 17, 2022, at 2:51 PM, Mike S < Mike@...> wrote: ? Can you borrow a lipping planer?? Perfect for such jobs.? To attach, sounds like an application similar to how I like installing face frames, I use biscuit jointer referenced from adjustable plate to plough groove and them random biscuits on the applied edge to freely adjust left/right (it leaves a consistent reveal).? Make sense?? I need to make a replacement table top for a friend. He wants ply because he is going to paint it. Finished size is 20¡±x53¡±. So plan to use 3/4¡± ply to which I will apply 1¡± wide solid wood edging. Edging will be profiled. Mitered corners for edging. I can round the sharp corners.
I was excited to finally use the MFK to trim edging flush with the top but it can only do 5/8¡± (3/4¡± tops) wide edging. That means I have to clamp a wide board to the edge (for stabilizing a router) and use a flush trim bit.
I am thinking of a slot and tenon interface, done on the shaper, to apply the edging. I can offset the cutter by a few thousands to ensure edging will be proud of the top and then just sand it. Does this sound like a good plan?
I would like to profile before gluing the edging to avoid blow out (during profiling) and the slot/tenon arrangement sound attractive for that reason as well. Maybe just able to use painters tape to glue the edging.
Imran
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Re: Wide belt grit selection
Mark Kessler,?
If your WBS experience is anything like mine, then the learning curve means you will be going through more belts at the beginning until you get settled. I'm a Klingspor believer and last I checked buying a 10-pack of any variety of belts was a substantially attractive price. I also believe in open coat over closed coat unless you are tearing the abrasive right off the backer. I think if you stuck with 120 and even over-used it, you'd be happy, then cleanup-passes with your suggested 180 will be adequate. If you are cleanly resawing you won't have a lot of sanding work to calibrate and surface.
That all said, I think the joint style is not that critical until you get to veneer sanding. Paper backing is more flexible and a better choice for finer grits and probably the only thing recommended to be in contact with a segmented platen (or maybe any other style of platen). You can solve every grit problem by adjusting conveyor speed, belt speed, and depth of pass. On my machine I go 80/120/220 across 3 heads, but often repetitive passes I just stay with the 120/220 and find it more forgiving to experiment with. I prefer to go with a finer grit and provide more contact time for surfacing and get better results than going coarse and trying to subsequently remove the sanding marks. I really value the quality of my AD941 with 0.1mm resolution and quality of finish right off the machine because I find calibration sanding on the WBS to be less fun if it's more than 0.2 mm of sanding. I will take resawn edges to get calibrated straight to the AD941 unless tearout risk is too great, then it's great to have the WBS.
Looking for where to start with grits for a wide belt, i bought a used scmi sandya win cs63 24¡±. Delivery was supposed to be tomorrow but they found that they need to replace the conveyor belt so it will be another week or two.
It has a steel contact drum and a platen, my typical final grit is 180, hand sand.
I have 2 use cases 1. Re-sawn hardwood ~3/32, one side will be jointed the other bandsaw which will then be pressed on BB. 2. Hardwood parts?
After all the reading and research I came to the conclusion that for the resawn to start at 80 or 100 then 120 cloth no platen then 180 paper backed with the platen then quick RO 180 or just hand sand after assembly.
But then i talked to a tech at Klingspor and he said no platen start with 120 cloth with the re sawn and then go straight to 180 RO. If the 120 isn¡¯t adequate then 100>120>RO180
For general hardwood pcs off the helical 120 cloth then RO180
So for all cases no platen, i thought there was a benefit to using the platen and he said do not use the platen with any cloth belt only paper, and really only at higher grits for sanding sealer for example
I would also like to eliminate the RO and just do a light hand sand but the tech told me not to because the straight line sanding from the widebelt will reveal itself over a week or less from expansion contraction.His recommendation was 100,120,and if i really wanted 180 all cloth and he also said open coat, I thought that with hardwood you would want closed but he said he recommends open coat on the 100 and 120 because the belt will run cooler and last longer and the closed will run hotter and be more aggressive? Any comments appreciated, sorry for the long post
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Re: Efficient Method to Wrap Plywood with Solid Wood
James,
Interesting technique. Thanks for sharing.
Imran
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On Feb 17, 2022, at 3:24 PM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote: ? Imran,
When I made the MDF top (3" thick) for my workbench last year, I used Ultimate Router base with 1 1/4" dish carving bit to flush trim the 1" thick hard maple skirt board, it worked really well.
I put 2 pieces of paper under the router bit to set the initial routing depth. After the initial trimming, I put 1 piece of paper under the router bit, and did the final trimming.
Basically, my Festool OF1400 with the ultimate router base plus the dish carving bit is my "Lamello" lipping planer :)
 
James Thanks Mike. No lipping planer. I did have a PC biscuit jointer but did not like the consistency and moved to Domino and sold the PC joiner.
Imran? On Feb 17, 2022, at 2:51 PM, Mike S < Mike@...> wrote: ? Can you borrow a lipping planer?? Perfect for such jobs.? To attach, sounds like an application similar to how I like installing face frames, I use biscuit jointer referenced from adjustable plate to plough groove and them random biscuits on the applied edge to freely adjust left/right (it leaves a consistent reveal).? Make sense?? I need to make a replacement table top for a friend. He wants ply because he is going to paint it. Finished size is 20¡±x53¡±. So plan to use 3/4¡± ply to which I will apply 1¡± wide solid wood edging. Edging will be profiled. Mitered corners for edging. I can round the sharp corners.
I was excited to finally use the MFK to trim edging flush with the top but it can only do 5/8¡± (3/4¡± tops) wide edging. That means I have to clamp a wide board to the edge (for stabilizing a router) and use a flush trim bit.
I am thinking of a slot and tenon interface, done on the shaper, to apply the edging. I can offset the cutter by a few thousands to ensure edging will be proud of the top and then just sand it. Does this sound like a good plan?
I would like to profile before gluing the edging to avoid blow out (during profiling) and the slot/tenon arrangement sound attractive for that reason as well. Maybe just able to use painters tape to glue the edging.
Imran
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Brett,
Looks like few of us have seen this happen with WRC. Never thought sawing wood as a potential fire hazard. Interesting.
Imran
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On Feb 17, 2022, at 3:05 PM, Brett Wissel <Brettwissel@...> wrote: ? I've sanded WRC and watched the halo follow the platen as it heated the surface, looked "wet", and flashed off nearly instantaneously like haunted wood. I just assumed it was oil components of the wood hitting flash point. Nearly always this was also sanding off old, previously oiled and finished furniture items. But not a unique phenomenon to one job, the darker the color of the wood the easier it is to observe. I should try a flame nearby next time it happens, but flames and sparks are not allowed in the restoration/refinishing shop lol. On Thu, Feb 17, 2022 at 11:05 AM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. via <rohrabacher= [email protected]> wrote:
On 2/16/22 11:37 PM, imranindiana wrote:
> came out of few boards but only at the beginning of the cut.
If it isn't smoke and it isn't steam ( neither of which am I proposing),
it could be dust, or it could also be spores from small fungi.? It's the
part about? happening at the beginning of the cut that causes me to
drift in that direction.
The end grain can harbor both.
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Re: Efficient Method to Wrap Plywood with Solid Wood
Imran,
When I made the MDF top (3" thick) for my workbench last year, I used Ultimate Router base with 1 1/4" dish carving bit to flush trim the 1" thick hard maple skirt board, it worked really well.
I put 2 pieces of paper under the router bit to set the initial routing depth. After the initial trimming, I put 1 piece of paper under the router bit, and did the final trimming.
Basically, my Festool OF1400 with the ultimate router base plus the dish carving bit is my "Lamello" lipping planer :)
 
James
Thanks Mike. No lipping planer. I did have a PC biscuit jointer but did not like the consistency and moved to Domino and sold the PC joiner.
Imran? On Feb 17, 2022, at 2:51 PM, Mike S < Mike@...> wrote: ? Can you borrow a lipping planer?? Perfect for such jobs.? To attach, sounds like an application similar to how I like installing face frames, I use biscuit jointer referenced from adjustable plate to plough groove and them random biscuits on the applied edge to freely adjust left/right (it leaves a consistent reveal).? Make sense?? I need to make a replacement table top for a friend. He wants ply because he is going to paint it. Finished size is 20¡±x53¡±. So plan to use 3/4¡± ply to which I will apply 1¡± wide solid wood edging. Edging will be profiled. Mitered corners for edging. I can round the sharp corners.
I was excited to finally use the MFK to trim edging flush with the top but it can only do 5/8¡± (3/4¡± tops) wide edging. That means I have to clamp a wide board to the edge (for stabilizing a router) and use a flush trim bit.
I am thinking of a slot and tenon interface, done on the shaper, to apply the edging. I can offset the cutter by a few thousands to ensure edging will be proud of the top and then just sand it. Does this sound like a good plan?
I would like to profile before gluing the edging to avoid blow out (during profiling) and the slot/tenon arrangement sound attractive for that reason as well. Maybe just able to use painters tape to glue the edging.
Imran
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Re: Efficient Method to Wrap Plywood with Solid Wood
Thanks Mike. No lipping planer. I did have a PC biscuit jointer but did not like the consistency and moved to Domino and sold the PC joiner.
Imran?
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On Feb 17, 2022, at 2:51 PM, Mike S <Mike@...> wrote: ? Can you borrow a lipping planer?? Perfect for such jobs.? To attach, sounds like an application similar to how I like installing face frames, I use biscuit jointer referenced from adjustable plate to plough groove and them random biscuits on the applied edge to freely adjust left/right (it leaves a consistent reveal).? Make sense?? I need to make a replacement table top for a friend. He wants ply because he is going to paint it. Finished size is 20¡±x53¡±. So plan to use 3/4¡± ply to which I will apply 1¡± wide solid wood edging. Edging will be profiled. Mitered corners for edging. I can round the sharp corners.
I was excited to finally use the MFK to trim edging flush with the top but it can only do 5/8¡± (3/4¡± tops) wide edging. That means I have to clamp a wide board to the edge (for stabilizing a router) and use a flush trim bit.
I am thinking of a slot and tenon interface, done on the shaper, to apply the edging. I can offset the cutter by a few thousands to ensure edging will be proud of the top and then just sand it. Does this sound like a good plan?
I would like to profile before gluing the edging to avoid blow out (during profiling) and the slot/tenon arrangement sound attractive for that reason as well. Maybe just able to use painters tape to glue the edging.
Imran
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I've sanded WRC and watched the halo follow the platen as it heated the surface, looked "wet", and flashed off nearly instantaneously like haunted wood. I just assumed it was oil components of the wood hitting flash point. Nearly always this was also sanding off old, previously oiled and finished furniture items. But not a unique phenomenon to one job, the darker the color of the wood the easier it is to observe. I should try a flame nearby next time it happens, but flames and sparks are not allowed in the restoration/refinishing shop lol. On Thu, Feb 17, 2022 at 11:05 AM Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. via <rohrabacher= [email protected]> wrote:
On 2/16/22 11:37 PM, imranindiana wrote:
> came out of few boards but only at the beginning of the cut.
If it isn't smoke and it isn't steam ( neither of which am I proposing),
it could be dust, or it could also be spores from small fungi.? It's the
part about? happening at the beginning of the cut that causes me to
drift in that direction.
The end grain can harbor both.
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Re: #wanted Kappa 400 x motion or advice on purchase
#wanted
I can give you advice on configuration. ?I do this all the time. ?DM me at David @ bestservices . biz (remove the spaces).? David Best - via mobile phone?
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On Feb 17, 2022, at 11:01 AM, jbowen@... wrote:
?Hi, anyone selling a Kappa 400 x motion or advice on new configuration?? I moved from cabinet saws to sliders last year, really like my K700S but thinking more about plans for retirement which is part time cabinetry business.? Retirement is a ways out but so is availability on machines, this would be a 'final' purchase.
Thanks,
Jay in Cleveland
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T-nut for the sliding table
I had a custom shop make some steel t-nuts a few years ago after I got?my?KF700sp. Today, I found that I have extra 2 short t-nuts and 3 long t-nuts laying around unused. I use it with Kreg automaxx clamps, see pictures below. As I mentioned before, the automaxx clamp pulls the stock a bit when clamping it. As long as you have the plywood block placed against the stock being clamped, the stock will not move at all.
The short one is 70mm long, the long one is 120mm. All have 5/16"-18 thread.
I can offer it ($25 for short one, $40 for long one, plus shipping), I am in Ontario, Canada. I can get the shipping quote from Canada Post or your choice of carrier like Fedex and UPS. I heard the shipping cost from Canada Post is cheaper than Fedex and UPS here.
If you are interested, send me a private email.
James 
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Re: Efficient Method to Wrap Plywood with Solid Wood
Can you borrow a lipping planer?? Perfect for such jobs.? To attach, sounds like an application similar to how I like installing face frames, I use biscuit jointer referenced from adjustable plate to plough groove and them random biscuits on the applied edge to freely adjust left/right (it leaves a consistent reveal).? Make sense??
I need to make a replacement table top for a friend. He wants ply because he is going to paint it. Finished size is 20¡±x53¡±. So plan to use 3/4¡± ply to which I will apply 1¡± wide solid wood edging. Edging will be profiled. Mitered corners for edging. I can round the sharp corners.
I was excited to finally use the MFK to trim edging flush with the top but it can only do 5/8¡± (3/4¡± tops) wide edging. That means I have to clamp a wide board to the edge (for stabilizing a router) and use a flush trim bit.
I am thinking of a slot and tenon interface, done on the shaper, to apply the edging. I can offset the cutter by a few thousands to ensure edging will be proud of the top and then just sand it. Does this sound like a good plan?
I would like to profile before gluing the edging to avoid blow out (during profiling) and the slot/tenon arrangement sound attractive for that reason as well. Maybe just able to use painters tape to glue the edging.
Imran
|
Efficient Method to Wrap Plywood with Solid Wood
I need to make a replacement table top for a friend. He wants ply because he is going to paint it. Finished size is 20¡±x53¡±. So plan to use 3/4¡± ply to which I will apply 1¡± wide solid wood edging. Edging will be profiled. Mitered corners for edging. I can round the sharp corners.
I was excited to finally use the MFK to trim edging flush with the top but it can only do 5/8¡± (3/4¡± tops) wide edging. That means I have to clamp a wide board to the edge (for stabilizing a router) and use a flush trim bit.
I am thinking of a slot and tenon interface, done on the shaper, to apply the edging. I can offset the cutter by a few thousands to ensure edging will be proud of the top and then just sand it. Does this sound like a good plan?
I would like to profile before gluing the edging to avoid blow out (during profiling) and the slot/tenon arrangement sound attractive for that reason as well. Maybe just able to use painters tape to glue the edging.
Imran
|
#wanted Kappa 400 x motion or advice on purchase
#wanted
Hi, anyone selling a Kappa 400 x motion or advice on new configuration?? I moved from cabinet saws to sliders last year, really like my K700S but thinking more about plans for retirement which is part time cabinetry business.? Retirement is a ways out but so is availability on machines, this would be a 'final' purchase.
Thanks,
Jay in Cleveland
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Re: Sliding Table Installation
yes the overhead guard is a challenge if you try to do it by yourself, but it can be done - just takes longer.?
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Re: Wide belt grit selection
Hey Jason Ha,? yes you're probably getting better resaw results.? I rarely do it- most of my resawing is really ripping edging on the table saw,? and then? widebelt with 80 at a fast feed rate. It's all about pounding out a ton of defect-free edgebanding quickly.
Post edgebanding I hit the edges on the edge sander.?
The sine wave seam on an angle plus soft platen does make a difference. It's just not a priority for me cause I'm going to belt sand anyway. I'm about to transition to a stroke sander for that.?
The coat of the deluxe grits (zirconia) never seemed worth it.?
You know how it is- I figure out what works and then don't really spend much energy engaging in speculative optimizing.?
Regards Lloyd?
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On 2/16/22 11:37 PM, imranindiana wrote: came out of few boards but only at the beginning of the cut. If it isn't smoke and it isn't steam ( neither of which am I proposing), it could be dust, or it could also be spores from small fungi.? It's the part about? happening at the beginning of the cut that causes me to drift in that direction. The end grain can harbor both.
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Re: Wide belt grit selection
Hi Mark I haven't found many options for the belt material when buying wide belts- usually 180 is paper and the coarser ones fabric.? Once you handle and use them, this division will make sense.? No need to pay extra to get atypical belt configurations- go with the default.? That article confirms my suspicion that the felt platen does reduce chatter but it's never been a priority for me because I almost always flood the pieces with dark dye and belt sand- this is the best way to catch all the surface defects and monitor sanding progress.This wouldn't work if you weren't going to add any color.? The article suggests that large shops do a lot of belt washing- maybe they're doing a lot of resinous material. For most of my work,? the belts wear down before clogging. You can feel the tooth wearing down.?
I apply most of my own veneers and won't run veneered panels thru the thickness sander unless I'm using thick veneers (>1/24"). The cores are almost always edgebanded and thickness sanded before veneering but variations in glue thickness creates high potential for sand thru if the veneers are thinner. I think there are specialty thickness sanders for standard thickness veneer (segmented or pneumatic platens?)
There is a high risk of sand thru with standard cabinet grade plywood. Anything with a thicker face ply like multi-ply (Baltic birch) or construction grade ply can work but you have to be careful.?
I've sanded nonferrous metals (removing only a couple thousands of an inch at a time), plastics, epoxy and stripped finishes but these materials will wear out and clog the belts quickly.? My attitude is that sandpaper is meant to be consumed.
I've also grained stainless but that shouldn't be done because of the risk of sparks/ fire.?
The machine is also great for dimensioning floating tenon or spline material.? It is easy the creep up on a precise thickness in a controlled manner.? ?Running the material a 2nd or 3rd time thru the machine without changing the thickness setting removes small amounts. Rotate the material so that unequal belt wear gets canceled out.
You can jump a grit size up to 120. But don't skip 120 on your way to 150 or 150 on your way to 180. Those finer belts wear out very quickly.?
Regards Lloyd
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Jason Holtz
imran
David P. Best
Albert Lee