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Re: Wide belt grit selection

 

Mark Kessler,?

If your WBS experience is anything like mine, then the learning curve means you will be going through more belts at the beginning until you get settled. I'm a Klingspor believer and last I checked buying a 10-pack of any variety of belts was a substantially attractive price. I also believe in open coat over closed coat unless you are tearing the abrasive right off the backer. I think if you stuck with 120 and even over-used it, you'd be happy, then cleanup-passes with your suggested 180 will be adequate. If you are cleanly resawing you won't have a lot of sanding work to calibrate and surface.

That all said, I think the joint style is not that critical until you get to veneer sanding. Paper backing is more flexible and a better choice for finer grits and probably the only thing recommended to be in contact with a segmented platen (or maybe any other style of platen). You can solve every grit problem by adjusting conveyor speed, belt speed, and depth of pass. On my machine I go 80/120/220 across 3 heads, but often repetitive passes I just stay with the 120/220 and find it more forgiving to experiment with. I prefer to go with a finer grit and provide more contact time for surfacing and get better results than going coarse and trying to subsequently remove the sanding marks. I really value the quality of my AD941 with 0.1mm resolution and quality of finish right off the machine because I find calibration sanding on the WBS to be less fun if it's more than 0.2 mm of sanding. I will take resawn edges to get calibrated straight to the AD941 unless tearout risk is too great, then it's great to have the WBS.

On Wed, Feb 16, 2022 at 9:26 PM Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
Looking for where to start with grits for a wide belt, i bought a used scmi sandya win cs63 24¡±. Delivery was supposed to be tomorrow but they found that they need to replace the conveyor belt so it will be another week or two.

It has a steel contact drum and a platen, my typical final grit is 180, hand sand.

I have 2 use cases
1. Re-sawn hardwood ~3/32, one side will be jointed the other bandsaw which will then be pressed on BB.
2. Hardwood parts?

After all the reading and research I came to the conclusion that for the resawn to start at 80 or 100 then 120 cloth no platen then 180 paper backed with the platen then quick RO 180 or just hand sand after assembly.

But then i talked to a tech at Klingspor and he said no platen start with 120 cloth with the re sawn and then go straight to 180 RO. If the 120 isn¡¯t adequate then 100>120>RO180

For general hardwood pcs off the helical 120 cloth then RO180

So for all cases no platen, i thought there was a benefit to using the platen and he said do not use the platen with any cloth belt only paper, and really only at higher grits for sanding sealer for example

I would also like to eliminate the RO and just do a light hand sand but the tech told me not to because the straight line sanding from the widebelt will reveal itself over a week or less from expansion contraction.


His recommendation was 100,120,and if i really wanted 180 all cloth and he also said open coat, I thought that with hardwood you would want closed but he said he recommends open coat on the 100 and 120 because the belt will run cooler and last longer and the closed will run hotter and be more aggressive?

Any comments appreciated, sorry for the long post


Regards, Mark




--
Brett Wissel
Saint Louis Restoration
1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd)
St Louis, MO 63110

314.772.2167
brett@...
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