Re: Would you buy a combo Shaper/Saw?
Stan, I was one of the first to receive one. I think Oct of 2019 is when I ordered it and received it in Jan. It¡¯s really nice for the money and I use it all the time.
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On Jan 26, 2021, at 9:19 AM, Stan Blaszczyk <blaszcsj@...> wrote:
? When did you order the hs950? I ordered mine just at the end of the year and have not received anything on pushing it back...yet ?
?
|
Re: X-Roll Festool quick clamp adapter T nuts
#diy
As Brian mentioned you could design the 3D print to have a cavity for a magnet. Dave Davies
On Tue, Jan 26, 2021 at 8:49 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Nice
Imran ?DIY clamps - printed T-nut. I have seen a few wooden solutions and various pneumatic clamps and wanted to offer this solution for anyone desiring a low cost clamping option presuming one has access to a 3D printer. Material cost is around a dollar. I have found them very effective for cabinet sheet work when combined with a larger clamp that reaches over the fence such as the Felder one (annoying setup-mods in future posts) or the Macs version (on order thanks to the bad influences in this group). Glad to share the print file should anyone wish to try them out and plan on making another set for the square slot in the "miter" guide. The clamp already fits in the support arm as shown. My first go was a scrap of 1/4" ply and a duct tape handle to slide it around. In the second iteration I cut? a notch out of the ply to hold the clamp vertical but it was still not a convenient assembly. Then came 2020, Covid and a news article covering a company in Europe (Prusa) who made 3d printers and was doing good for their town. A beverage or two, a credit card and a couple weeks later a printer kit arrived. Turns out no one wanted the printed face shields in my town so I made the one item I actually wanted that was perfectly suited for plastic. Free sliding plastic T-nuts fully capturing the Festool ratchet clamp holding it vertical and keeping it from scratching the T-slot. The "nut" can stay in the table and the clamp removed, or slid together as necessary. The snug fit allows for non binding and the upper nut surface is a mm or so below the table surface ensuring the work piece is pressed against the table when clamped. Any of the long time members or contributors think a #3D_Print would be prudent to create?? <Festool X roll T nut.jpg> <IMG_E5416.JPG> -- Mike B
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: X-Roll Festool quick clamp adapter T nuts
#diy
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 26, 2021, at 12:15 AM, Mike Bemis <Michaelsbemis@...> wrote: ?DIY clamps - printed T-nut. I have seen a few wooden solutions and various pneumatic clamps and wanted to offer this solution for anyone desiring a low cost clamping option presuming one has access to a 3D printer. Material cost is around a dollar. I have found them very effective for cabinet sheet work when combined with a larger clamp that reaches over the fence such as the Felder one (annoying setup-mods in future posts) or the Macs version (on order thanks to the bad influences in this group). Glad to share the print file should anyone wish to try them out and plan on making another set for the square slot in the "miter" guide. The clamp already fits in the support arm as shown. My first go was a scrap of 1/4" ply and a duct tape handle to slide it around. In the second iteration I cut? a notch out of the ply to hold the clamp vertical but it was still not a convenient assembly. Then came 2020, Covid and a news article covering a company in Europe (Prusa) who made 3d printers and was doing good for their town. A beverage or two, a credit card and a couple weeks later a printer kit arrived. Turns out no one wanted the printed face shields in my town so I made the one item I actually wanted that was perfectly suited for plastic. Free sliding plastic T-nuts fully capturing the Festool ratchet clamp holding it vertical and keeping it from scratching the T-slot. The "nut" can stay in the table and the clamp removed, or slid together as necessary. The snug fit allows for non binding and the upper nut surface is a mm or so below the table surface ensuring the work piece is pressed against the table when clamped. Any of the long time members or contributors think a #3D_Print would be prudent to create?? <Festool X roll T nut.jpg> <IMG_E5416.JPG> -- Mike B
|
Re: Air Compressor Big and Small- David Kumm Style
Brian's point is good.? You want to blast regularly as running a large compressor to run a sander or die grinder makes little sense.? I have a 25 hp Quincy 5120 I picked up cheap and rebuilt.? It gets pulled out and run about once a year.? Not my wisest use
of capital or space.? Dave
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Unless you plan on sand blasting with great regularity, do not size your compressor for the max requirement of the sand blaster. It¡¯s been my experience that your blasting will be probably less than 10% of your usage,
so stick with the capacity of a 5hp two stage unit and pause once in a while while you are blasting. Other wise you will need 20hp worth of compressor and spend 3x¡¯s as much as you need for ¡°normal¡± usage.
On Jan 25, 2021, at 7:16 PM, David Kumm < davekumm@...> wrote:
There isn't much to rebuilding the QR series but like everything else, it can be a crap shoot if the piston or bearings are an issue.? the valves are a no brainer to clean up.? the
QT is the low end pump and you don't rehab those.? I think the 350 or 370 10 hp pumps are more appropriate for a pressurized blaster but do your homework.? Sometimes you can find a duplex compressor on CL or FB.? Two 325 with one tank.? Use one or both when
necessary.? Dave
Dave,
Thanks for the recommendation.? thanks to your previous comments I have my eyes out for one of these 325¡¯s.? I am still building skills, but think I would enjoy the challenge of a rebuild if I can source one.?
I don¡¯t own a blast cabinet yet- waiting for the shop to be built before Ill have the space.? But I am leaning toward a PSBC990 Pressurized pot style cabinet.? Spec sheet claims? 25 CFM @80 PSI with 5MM nozzle, but it also appears that from several users that
the pressurized pot cuts down on that requirement.? Again, I have used blasters, but this will be my first personal setup so I am ridding pretty blind here.?
Anthony
|
Re: Air Compressor Big and Small- David Kumm Style
I'm chiming in with great 2+ year daily commercial use of a risk we took on the Eastwood QST-30/60. It is capable of 12cfm@90psi at 100% duty cycle and quiet as an HVAC compressor running because?I'm pretty sure that's what it is being a scroll compressor. People don't even know it's cycling in the shop until it stops and the pressure relief valve hisses. It also sits in the main area of the shop instead of hiding it away in a soundproof enclosure. Just looking up the link it appears they have a bigger 40/80 version now, too. I'd stack these units in parallel to fulfill higher cfm requirements until I finally got big enough air demand to support a screw.
I'm almost done with a rebuild of a 10 hp 3 cylinder Curtis compressor (E71 pump).? ?I will give an update once it's in service,? but it is very well built.? Curtis might be a brand to consider as well as other makes.?
Marlowe McGraw?
On Tue, Jan 26, 2021, 8:19 AM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: Unless you plan on sand blasting with great regularity, do not size your compressor for the max requirement of the sand blaster. It¡¯s been my experience that your blasting will be probably less than 10% of your usage, so stick with the capacity of a 5hp two stage unit and pause once in a while while you are blasting. Other wise you will need 20hp worth of compressor and spend 3x¡¯s as much as you need for ¡°normal¡± usage.
On Jan 25, 2021, at 7:16 PM, David Kumm < davekumm@...> wrote:
There isn't much to rebuilding the QR series but like everything else, it can be a crap shoot if the piston or bearings are an issue.? the valves are a no brainer to clean up.? the QT is the low end pump and you don't rehab those.? I think the 350 or 370 10
hp pumps are more appropriate for a pressurized blaster but do your homework.? Sometimes you can find a duplex compressor on CL or FB.? Two 325 with one tank.? Use one or both when necessary.? Dave
Dave,
Thanks for the recommendation.? thanks to your previous comments I have my eyes out for one of these 325¡¯s.? I am still building skills, but think I would enjoy the challenge of a rebuild if I can source one.?
I don¡¯t own a blast cabinet yet- waiting for the shop to be built before Ill have the space.? But I am leaning toward a PSBC990 Pressurized pot style cabinet.? Spec sheet claims? 25 CFM @80 PSI with 5MM nozzle, but it also appears that from several users that
the pressurized pot cuts down on that requirement.? Again, I have used blasters, but this will be my first personal setup so I am ridding pretty blind here.?
Anthony
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Brian Lamb added folder /3D Printer Files
|
Re: X-Roll Festool quick clamp adapter T nuts
#diy
I created a folder in the files section for #D printer files. One tip on this project, if you want the plastic piece to stay on the clamps, pocket a small neodymium magnet into the pocket somewhere to keep the plastic somewhat attached to the clamp.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
DIY clamps - printed T-nut. I have seen a few wooden solutions and various pneumatic clamps and wanted to offer this solution for anyone desiring a low cost clamping option presuming one has access to a 3D printer. Material cost is around a dollar. I have found them very effective for cabinet sheet work when combined with a larger clamp that reaches over the fence such as the Felder one (annoying setup-mods in future posts) or the Macs version (on order thanks to the bad influences in this group). Glad to share the print file should anyone wish to try them out and plan on making another set for the square slot in the "miter" guide. The clamp already fits in the support arm as shown.
My first go was a scrap of 1/4" ply and a duct tape handle to slide it around. In the second iteration I cut? a notch out of the ply to hold the clamp vertical but it was still not a convenient assembly. Then came 2020, Covid and a news article covering a company in Europe (Prusa) who made 3d printers and was doing good for their town. A beverage or two, a credit card and a couple weeks later a printer kit arrived. Turns out no one wanted the printed face shields in my town so I made the one item I actually wanted that was perfectly suited for plastic. Free sliding plastic T-nuts fully capturing the Festool ratchet clamp holding it vertical and keeping it from scratching the T-slot. The "nut" can stay in the table and the clamp removed, or slid together as necessary. The snug fit allows for non binding and the upper nut surface is a mm or so below the table surface ensuring the work piece is pressed against the table when clamped.
Any of the long time members or contributors think a #3D_Print would be prudent to create??
<Festool X roll T nut.jpg><IMG_E5416.JPG>
--
Mike B
|
Re: Air Compressor Big and Small- David Kumm Style
I'm almost done with a rebuild of a 10 hp 3 cylinder Curtis compressor (E71 pump).? ?I will give an update once it's in service,? but it is very well built.? Curtis might be a brand to consider as well as other makes.?
Marlowe McGraw?
On Tue, Jan 26, 2021, 8:19 AM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: Unless you plan on sand blasting with great regularity, do not size your compressor for the max requirement of the sand blaster. It¡¯s been my experience that your blasting will be probably less than 10% of your usage, so stick with the capacity of a 5hp two stage unit and pause once in a while while you are blasting. Other wise you will need 20hp worth of compressor and spend 3x¡¯s as much as you need for ¡°normal¡± usage.
On Jan 25, 2021, at 7:16 PM, David Kumm < davekumm@...> wrote:
There isn't much to rebuilding the QR series but like everything else, it can be a crap shoot if the piston or bearings are an issue.? the valves are a no brainer to clean up.? the QT is the low end pump and you don't rehab those.? I think the 350 or 370 10
hp pumps are more appropriate for a pressurized blaster but do your homework.? Sometimes you can find a duplex compressor on CL or FB.? Two 325 with one tank.? Use one or both when necessary.? Dave
Dave,
Thanks for the recommendation.? thanks to your previous comments I have my eyes out for one of these 325¡¯s.? I am still building skills, but think I would enjoy the challenge of a rebuild if I can source one.?
I don¡¯t own a blast cabinet yet- waiting for the shop to be built before Ill have the space.? But I am leaning toward a PSBC990 Pressurized pot style cabinet.? Spec sheet claims? 25 CFM @80 PSI with 5MM nozzle, but it also appears that from several users that
the pressurized pot cuts down on that requirement.? Again, I have used blasters, but this will be my first personal setup so I am ridding pretty blind here.?
Anthony
|
Re: Air Compressor Big and Small- David Kumm Style
Unless you plan on sand blasting with great regularity, do not size your compressor for the max requirement of the sand blaster. It¡¯s been my experience that your blasting will be probably less than 10% of your usage, so stick with the capacity of a 5hp two stage unit and pause once in a while while you are blasting. Other wise you will need 20hp worth of compressor and spend 3x¡¯s as much as you need for ¡°normal¡± usage.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 25, 2021, at 7:16 PM, David Kumm < davekumm@...> wrote:
There isn't much to rebuilding the QR series but like everything else, it can be a crap shoot if the piston or bearings are an issue.? the valves are a no brainer to clean up.? the QT is the low end pump and you don't rehab those.? I think the 350 or 370 10
hp pumps are more appropriate for a pressurized blaster but do your homework.? Sometimes you can find a duplex compressor on CL or FB.? Two 325 with one tank.? Use one or both when necessary.? Dave
Dave,
Thanks for the recommendation.? thanks to your previous comments I have my eyes out for one of these 325¡¯s.? I am still building skills, but think I would enjoy the challenge of a rebuild if I can source one.?
I don¡¯t own a blast cabinet yet- waiting for the shop to be built before Ill have the space.? But I am leaning toward a PSBC990 Pressurized pot style cabinet.? Spec sheet claims? 25 CFM @80 PSI with 5MM nozzle, but it also appears that from several users that
the pressurized pot cuts down on that requirement.? Again, I have used blasters, but this will be my first personal setup so I am ridding pretty blind here.?
Anthony
|
Re: Would you buy a combo Shaper/Saw?
When did you order the hs950? I ordered mine just at the end of the year and have not received anything on pushing it back...yet ?
?
|
Re: Auction in WA with unipoint RAS, Lift tables, Altendorf, Resaw Bandsaw Etc
Jason, ? Are you in a commercial setting?? How much power is plenty of power?? As I look forward towards my retirement shop I'd like to have a multihead widebelt?and am not sure how much power I need to try and have available in the shop.?? Thanks, Dave Davies
On Tue, Jan 26, 2021 at 6:26 AM Jason Holtz < jholtzy@...> wrote: You can certainly run only one head on a multiple head machine. Almost all will have independent motors and controls. I rent time on a 3 head 53" machine occasionally. They have head 3 off and I believe slightly higher for all but the last couple passes.
Multi head machines are usually much larger, in addition to their increased power consumption and dust collection requirements. When I went from a 37" to a 43" I had to upgrade the dust collector, but we have plenty of power.
Jason Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765
--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Auction in WA with unipoint RAS, Lift tables, Altendorf, Resaw Bandsaw Etc
You can certainly run only one head on a multiple head machine. Almost all will have independent motors and controls. I rent time on a 3 head 53" machine occasionally. They have head 3 off and I believe slightly higher for all but the last couple passes.
Multi head machines are usually much larger, in addition to their increased power consumption and dust collection requirements. When I went from a 37" to a 43" I had to upgrade the dust collector, but we have plenty of power.
Jason Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Re: Air Compressor Big and Small- David Kumm Style
Mike,
Never seen a dial regulator. So you have a 3rd dial for the tank pressure?
I need to move the regulator, separator and 1x5 manifold from my compressor to the wall. Since I parked the compressor under the rip side of my saw, it is a pain to change pressure.
Imran
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On Jan 25, 2021, at 10:39 PM, Mike Bemis <Michaelsbemis@...> wrote: ?eBay was my solution, reportedly it was new old stock and the various fittings were from automationdirect.com. The main reduction regulator (Input 300 max-output 125 psi) can set up a harmonic in the tank when at full flow and whistle. I can say the dial regulators are fantastic if you routinely need different pressures (turned off in the image, when the tank is on that gauge will show 80 matching the dial.) The regulators are 1/2" ensuring decent airflow. <dial in.jpg> <300 psi.jpg> -- Mike B
|
Mike,
Thanks for the elaboration on Festool BT. Unfortunately, I do not know anything about RL160. My RL125 is a simpler setup, electrically speaking.
From what I gather you would like a cleaner solution. Here is how I will go about it.
The relay?current requirement?(in Bill¡¯s case 15A @ 120VAC) should be very low as the main contactor is in RL. I would confirm this before picking a relay but in many cases even the compact solutions offer relays that can handle 6 to 10A. So I would pick a 315 MHz or 433 MHz remote (transmitter) and 1 ch receiver for this purpose.
I am not aware of any that go on DIN rail. You may be able to buy a DIN mount that can be attached to module. I have not looked at my brake board lately but it must have a screw-on DIN mount.
I am currently waiting on parts similar to what you should be able to use to place two green and one red button on my slider to have remote on/off capability.
I went with home controls for my project and below is one option that may work for you. They offer more choices. Add a compatible remote which they also offer.
One issue might be availability of 24VAC or VDC for the receiver. So verify that you have a transformer in your RL. If not then that is something you will need to add. You could just buy a 12VDC wall wart that provides the required input current.
Finally, you might be able to use your festool unit. I assume it runs on 110VAC?but you will need to find out:
if it has a relay (NO or NC and what kind of signal is on common)
or communication signal of sort using a serial bus.
Imran
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On Jan 25, 2021, at 11:39 PM, Mike Bemis <Michaelsbemis@...> wrote: ?Imran,
Someday I'll hardwire everything. For the time being flexibility is desired for no other reason than it is one less thing to do/re-do.
I was after the Festool remote first because It was small, clean and I did not see any other turnkey solutions. My first thought was because it was a kit with both the remote and receiver that received power from a 110v vacuum I was hoping it could be wired into the RL directly taking power from the machine and sending a trigger output signal somewhere. It has the potential to be elegant. I agree the remote was small and the idea there was to clip on my shirt or wear it like a watch.? The iVac remote is fine. Felder should offer an OEM solution in my opinion, everyone I know had a remote start on their dust collectors before making an upgrade to any RL units only to then cobble together solutions.?
Thanks Bill and Scott for solving round 1.?
I am curious if there are any of the circuit breaker looking modules that would handle the relay portion being triggered with 220v even if at slightly higher cost. There is a 220V iVac for $90 on Amazon (no 120V). Thinking it can be placed inside the RL hardwired into power and do the same to? a more industrial relay (no off/on switch and easy rail mounting). If there was no budget how would you do it again getting as close to an "OEM" look as possible??
This may also help Rick with another RL160 above. (Does this jumping pins 7 & 8 cause issues with the motors getting up to speed?)
--
Mike B
|
Re: Air Compressor Big and Small- David Kumm Style
I love my quincy. Qt5 i believe. Big upgrade to my harbor freight 5hp or whAtever it was that imploded. Dont see a need for a small Compressor which is likely noisier than the low hum of the quincy.? Taylor Donsker www.tdonsker.com 818.424.9046
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On Jan 25, 2021, at 8:35 PM, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression <airtightclamps@...> wrote:
? I rebuilt a 5 hp ingersal ?rand about 25 years ago ,twin head cast iron , machined the heads , new gaskets , cleaned the tank , installed new reeds and been chugging away ever sense, new filter and oil. Used to blast for prep but found the 5 hp 80 gallon tank just couldn¡¯t keep up,? I use an air needle tool know for prep. People that blast for me have BIG compressors. Designing and building for 50 years On Jan 25, 2021, at 9:53 PM, Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote:
?
On pressure, I run my Quincy QR325 with a 3HP motor at 400 RPM, soooo quiet at that low RPM.? Also I realized I don¡¯t need 175 psi, just heats up the
air more. I run at 120 psi.? I¡¯ve had no issue for years with an HVLP gun.? If I ever do I can change motors and pulleys and run with 5HP.
?
From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of Mike Bemis
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 8:39 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Air Compressor Big and Small- David Kumm Style
?
eBay was my solution, reportedly it was new old stock and the various fittings were from automationdirect.com. The main reduction regulator (Input 300 max-output 125 psi) can set up a harmonic in the tank when at full flow and whistle.
I can say the dial regulators are fantastic if you routinely need different pressures (turned off in the image, when the tank is on that gauge will show 80 matching the dial.) The regulators are 1/2" ensuring decent airflow.
<image001.jpg> <image002.jpg>
--
Mike B
|
X-Roll Festool quick clamp adapter T nuts
#diy
DIY clamps - printed T-nut. I have seen a few wooden solutions and various pneumatic clamps and wanted to offer this solution for anyone desiring a low cost clamping option presuming one has access to a 3D printer. Material cost is around a dollar. I have found them very effective for cabinet sheet work when combined with a larger clamp that reaches over the fence such as the Felder one (annoying setup-mods in future posts) or the Macs version (on order thanks to the bad influences in this group). Glad to share the print file should anyone wish to try them out and plan on making another set for the square slot in the "miter" guide. The clamp already fits in the support arm as shown. My first go was a scrap of 1/4" ply and a duct tape handle to slide it around. In the second iteration I cut? a notch out of the ply to hold the clamp vertical but it was still not a convenient assembly. Then came 2020, Covid and a news article covering a company in Europe (Prusa) who made 3d printers and was doing good for their town. A beverage or two, a credit card and a couple weeks later a printer kit arrived. Turns out no one wanted the printed face shields in my town so I made the one item I actually wanted that was perfectly suited for plastic. Free sliding plastic T-nuts fully capturing the Festool ratchet clamp holding it vertical and keeping it from scratching the T-slot. The "nut" can stay in the table and the clamp removed, or slid together as necessary. The snug fit allows for non binding and the upper nut surface is a mm or so below the table surface ensuring the work piece is pressed against the table when clamped. Any of the long time members or contributors think a #3D_Print would be prudent to create??   -- Mike B
|
Re: Auction in WA with unipoint RAS, Lift tables, Altendorf, Resaw Bandsaw Etc
I have had a few , also known as EMA the old ones are great very heavy duty I have there 630 sizer, love it. Body is rolled 10 mm plate internals are cast. Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jan 25, 2021, at 4:50 PM, David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
? Dave, ?I don't understand "?I've had machinery max bid stuff back?".? Are you saying that someone that won an item may not get it because Machinery Max didn't think it went for enough so they void the sale? Thanks, Dave Davies On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 4:42 PM David Kumm < davekumm@...> wrote:
Keeping watching.? I've had machinery max bid stuff back and it shows up on the net auction.? Dave
Hi Imran,
That auction closed today.? I picked up the 4x8 lift table, disc sander and forklift.? Now just have to get them home during in what is shaping up to be really poor weather.
The wide belt sanders sold for low $$.? I would have loved to get one, except for the fact that upgrades to my electrical system and dust collection would cost much more than the sander.
Alex
On Jan 25, 2021, at 8:45 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
?
FYI ......
Imran
Begin forwarded message:
From: "MachineryMax.Com" < sales@...>
Date: January 25, 2021 at 10:51:00 AM EST
To: imranindiana@...
Subject: Auction closing today! Complete plant closure
Reply-To: "MachineryMax.Com" < sales@...>
?
Located in Sumner, Washington
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Imran,
Someday I'll hardwire everything. For the time being flexibility is desired for no other reason than it is one less thing to do/re-do.
I was after the Festool remote first because It was small, clean and I did not see any other turnkey solutions. My first thought was because it was a kit with both the remote and receiver that received power from a 110v vacuum I was hoping it could be wired into the RL directly taking power from the machine and sending a trigger output signal somewhere. It has the potential to be elegant. I agree the remote was small and the idea there was to clip on my shirt or wear it like a watch.? The iVac remote is fine. Felder should offer an OEM solution in my opinion, everyone I know had a remote start on their dust collectors before making an upgrade to any RL units only to then cobble together solutions.?
Thanks Bill and Scott for solving round 1.?
I am curious if there are any of the circuit breaker looking modules that would handle the relay portion being triggered with 220v even if at slightly higher cost. There is a 220V iVac for $90 on Amazon (no 120V). Thinking it can be placed inside the RL hardwired into power and do the same to? a more industrial relay (no off/on switch and easy rail mounting). If there was no budget how would you do it again getting as close to an "OEM" look as possible??
This may also help Rick with another RL160 above. (Does this jumping pins 7 & 8 cause issues with the motors getting up to speed?)
--
Mike B
|
Re: Air Compressor Big and Small- David Kumm Style
I rebuilt a 5 hp ingersal ?rand about 25 years ago ,twin head cast iron , machined the heads , new gaskets , cleaned the tank , installed new reeds and been chugging away ever sense, new filter and oil. Used to blast for prep but found the 5 hp 80 gallon tank just couldn¡¯t keep up,? I use an air needle tool know for prep. People that blast for me have BIG compressors. Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 25, 2021, at 9:53 PM, Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote:
?
On pressure, I run my Quincy QR325 with a 3HP motor at 400 RPM, soooo quiet at that low RPM.? Also I realized I don¡¯t need 175 psi, just heats up the
air more. I run at 120 psi.? I¡¯ve had no issue for years with an HVLP gun.? If I ever do I can change motors and pulleys and run with 5HP.
?
From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of Mike Bemis
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 8:39 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Air Compressor Big and Small- David Kumm Style
?
eBay was my solution, reportedly it was new old stock and the various fittings were from automationdirect.com. The main reduction regulator (Input 300 max-output 125 psi) can set up a harmonic in the tank when at full flow and whistle.
I can say the dial regulators are fantastic if you routinely need different pressures (turned off in the image, when the tank is on that gauge will show 80 matching the dial.) The regulators are 1/2" ensuring decent airflow.
<image001.jpg> <image002.jpg>
--
Mike B
|
Rick, I don¡¯t have a list of parts but the button substitute would be a timed relay triggered by the remote.? I would think remote start kits would
tigger the relay.? The stop would trigger a relay on the stop line to open it.? We can chat.
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of Rick Fisher
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 7:16 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] RL 160 remote start challenge #diy #dustcollection
?
I have a single phase RL160.? I have to hold the button until it reaches speed.? I plan to move it to the basement very soon and wondered about a remote.??
I'm hoping I can get enough info from this thread for an electrician to be able to make it work ... lol??
Is there a list of parts needed ??
On Monday, January 25, 2021, Mike Bemis <Michaelsbemis@...> wrote:
I have a challenge for the electronically inclined members of the forum and am hopeful someone already had this idea. The ultimate goal is to use the very nice Festool remote button to start my single phase 220V RL 160. I don¡¯t want to
hard wire any auto starts and while I am open to an off the shelf solution (have not located one) the end goal is the Festool watch face sized button remote with the receiver/pair button being installed in the dust collector (plenty of room to cut an opening
and run wiring behind for a clean look.
Parts on hand already secured to facilitate experiments are one Festool remote module kit, one CT 36E dust extractor for power or interface research (of course the one I had was too old and incompatible) , one Ziehl STW1K (the blue brick Felder sells as the
interface), one of the inductance coils STWA1, and a doorbell transformer in case it comes down to tricking the Ziehl coil to make a trigger signal. One trial indicated that a one amp draw through the coil at 220v sent out 15v but it was not a precise study.?
-
Mike B
|
imran
Jason Holtz
Joe Jensen