Re: Job site saw recommendation?
I have used the Dewalt for years. I love that saw. It¡¯s got a solid little fence that doesn¡¯t flex because it¡¯s locked down at both ends. I use it all the time.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Since you will give the saw to your dad eventually, then buy the best job site saw, that is a great way to say Thank You.
James On Wed, Jan 20, 2021 at 12:17 PM Anthony Quesada < tonymiga2@...> wrote: As mentioned previously, we are about to start the new workshop.? Looking for a stop-gap saw to help with the construction and until I move into the bigger space where I will get another slider.? There will be a full time contractor with his own tools, but I will be helping out and will want to be making things on nights and weekends too over the next year +. ? ?
Any recommendations for "job site" saw I¡¯ll be able to use for the barn construction and for occasional site work down the road?? I have a track saw so I will be using this TS more for repetitive rips and cross cuts (with sled). ? ?
I believe that Mac has an Erika and seems to like it?? From what I have seen and heard at the mafell forums, it looks like a fantastic saw.? Any other brand or model recommendations from those that may have a smaller saw in their arsenal or should the Erika be at the top of the list? ? ?
I also plan on gifting this saw to my dad (we share the shop space) once I get a slider.? He doesn¡¯t have any interest in learning how to use the sliding saw, but since he has so graciously allowed me to move into his shop and now add an addition I want to give him a little thank you and upgrade his 40 year old ¡°job site saw.¡± ?
thanks so much,? Anthony?
|
Thanks Joe. Luckily David Best suggested that I keep the stock fence plates when I upgraded, so I still have them. Since I have a router table, I'm wondering if all the switching time is really worth it. I think not, for most?jobs...
Bill B¨¦langer
Bill, if you don¡¯t modify the hood as other described you need to use the Felder plates.? I ordered my machine with the Aigner option and they shipped
with the Felder plates too.
?
From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of Bill Belanger
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2021 8:36 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Shaper as Router
?
Thanks Imran. I have the router belt, it only aligns with the third pulley on the motor.
The router spindle is unlike the shaper spindle and has only one pulley built into?it.
I¡¯ll check the threads for John¡¯s mod.
?
On Wed, Jan 20, 2021 at 07:54 imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
On KF700 router spindle requires it¡¯s own belt.
On KF700 hood a modification is needed that John Kee shared for full or better use of router bits.
On Jan 20, 2021, at 9:49 AM, Bill B¨¦langer <Bllblngr@...> wrote:
?So yesterday I needed a roundover on a 1/2 piece of oak so I figured this is great time to try my new F700Z as a router.
First thing I noticed is that the belt will not fit on the lower motor pulley as shown on the placard on the front of the machine where it looks like you'd get 15,000 RPMs.
It will only go on the 3rd one down.
Second is that with the aigner fence, It will not go back far enough to get to the bearing on the top of the roundover bit.
You cannot use the full bit.
I'm wondering if the original Felder fence will facilitate that last 5mm of travel?
Thanks in advance
Bill B¨¦langer
|
Re: Start Capacitor Value
I bought the on/off switches for K975 on ebay which basically is a mechanical part. For readily available electrical component like the start cap, that I only need one of in a decade I prefer reliable sources. Did the same for the RPC build or repair of brake board. Actually, I do not recall buying an electrical component on ebay.
In my last yrs at work, we had to put new checks in place for spot buying to ensure we do not get counterfeit components.
I imagine 99/100 times one be fine buying electrical components on ebay. I have not looked but if reputable distributors like Arrow, Newark, Allied, Mouser, Digi-key sell on ebay, it should be okay as well.
just my $0.02
Imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 20, 2021, at 12:05 PM, ahazi <ariel.hazi@...> wrote: ?I find eBay to be a great source for these items with competitive prices and included shipping. Take a look:
Price:
Ariel
|
Re: Job site saw recommendation?
Since you will give the saw to your dad eventually, then buy the best job site saw, that is a great way to say Thank You.
James
On Wed, Jan 20, 2021 at 12:17 PM Anthony Quesada < tonymiga2@...> wrote: As mentioned previously, we are about to start the new workshop.? Looking for a stop-gap saw to help with the construction and until I move into the bigger space where I will get another slider.? There will be a full time contractor with his own tools, but I will be helping out and will want to be making things on nights and weekends too over the next year +. ?
?
Any recommendations for "job site" saw I¡¯ll be able to use for the barn construction and for occasional site work down the road?? I have a track saw so I will be using this TS more for repetitive rips and cross cuts (with sled). ?
?
I believe that Mac has an Erika and seems to like it?? From what I have seen and heard at the mafell forums, it looks like a fantastic saw.? Any other brand or model recommendations from those that may have a smaller saw in their arsenal or should the Erika be at the top of the list? ?
?
I also plan on gifting this saw to my dad (we share the shop space) once I get a slider.? He doesn¡¯t have any interest in learning how to use the sliding saw, but since he has so graciously allowed me to move into his shop and now add an addition I want to give him a little thank you and upgrade his 40 year old ¡°job site saw.¡±
?
thanks so much,?
Anthony?
|
Job site saw recommendation?
As mentioned previously, we are about to start the new workshop.? Looking for a stop-gap saw to help with the construction and until I move into the bigger space where I will get another slider.? There will be a full time contractor with his own tools, but I will be helping out and will want to be making things on nights and weekends too over the next year +. ?
?
Any recommendations for "job site" saw I¡¯ll be able to use for the barn construction and for occasional site work down the road?? I have a track saw so I will be using this TS more for repetitive rips and cross cuts (with sled). ?
?
I believe that Mac has an Erika and seems to like it?? From what I have seen and heard at the mafell forums, it looks like a fantastic saw.? Any other brand or model recommendations from those that may have a smaller saw in their arsenal or should the Erika be at the top of the list? ?
?
I also plan on gifting this saw to my dad (we share the shop space) once I get a slider.? He doesn¡¯t have any interest in learning how to use the sliding saw, but since he has so graciously allowed me to move into his shop and now add an addition I want to give him a little thank you and upgrade his 40 year old ¡°job site saw.¡±
?
thanks so much,?
Anthony?
|
Re: For Sale - KF700S 2013 (2014 Delivery)
Hi Guys,?
The saw sold yesterday to a really nice guy down on the Cape. ?Excited to have the great saw in a new shop where it will get lots of use. ?
Thanks to all those that helped facilitate this sale. ?
|
Re: Start Capacitor Value
I find eBay to be a great source for these items with competitive prices and included shipping. Take a look:
Price:
Ariel
|
Re: Tannewitz Blade Guide choices
I think WWTW sells parts too.? There might be some prices on the website for comparison.? Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I decided to try the guides that came with the saw, the Tannewitz on the upper and the Carter on the lower.? I have ordered new wear blocks for the two guides and I have
new rear bearings for both.
?
?
Did you try Woodworkerstoolworks?? I have Wright guides on my 217 and Y20 and like them a lot.? They do support the blades well although I have resawed without any guides.? Dave
The parts guy at Tannewitz expressed a strong preference for the old style blade guides.? He said the steel block style support the blade in two places and they contact
the width of the blade.? The bearing supports in one place and the bearing face is narrower.
?
The machine I bought has the Tannewitz for the upper guide and a Carter CP10 for the lower guide.
?
From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of Joe Jensen
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2021 3:28 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [FOG] Tannewitz Blade Guide choices
?
My Tannewitz came with their old style blade guides with steel wear strips.? Tannewitz now uses ball bearing type guides. I've emailed asking for pricing replacement wear strips and on new guides.? I did see one place selling replacement wear strips and the
set for upper and lower were like $700 !? To put things in perspective, the rear bearing on the original guides in 3" across. I found one new rear bearing assembly on ebay for like $70.? But I will need a second and all new wear strips.
I've been using Laguna ceramic guides for 20 years. I intend to primarily use the Tanny for resawing and plan to mount a resaw feeder to the table.
|
Re: Tannewitz Blade Guide choices
I decided to try the guides that came with the saw, the Tannewitz on the upper and the Carter on the lower.? I have ordered new wear blocks for the
two guides and I have new rear bearings for both.
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of David Kumm
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2021 9:26 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Tannewitz Blade Guide choices
?
Did you try Woodworkerstoolworks?? I have Wright guides on my 217 and Y20 and like them a lot.? They do support the blades well although I have resawed without any guides.? Dave
The parts guy at Tannewitz expressed a strong preference for the old style blade guides.? He said the steel block style support the blade in two places
and they contact the width of the blade.? The bearing supports in one place and the bearing face is narrower.
?
The machine I bought has the Tannewitz for the upper guide and a Carter CP10 for the lower guide.
?
From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of Joe Jensen
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2021 3:28 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [FOG] Tannewitz Blade Guide choices
?
My Tannewitz came with their old style blade guides with steel wear strips.? Tannewitz now uses ball bearing type guides. I've emailed asking for pricing replacement wear strips and on new guides.? I did see one place selling replacement
wear strips and the set for upper and lower were like $700 !? To put things in perspective, the rear bearing on the original guides in 3" across. I found one new rear bearing assembly on ebay for like $70.? But I will need a second and all new wear strips.
I've been using Laguna ceramic guides for 20 years. I intend to primarily use the Tanny for resawing and plan to mount a resaw feeder to the table.
|
Bill, if you don¡¯t modify the hood as other described you need to use the Felder plates.? I ordered my machine with the Aigner option and they shipped
with the Felder plates too.
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of Bill Belanger
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2021 8:36 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Shaper as Router
?
Thanks Imran. I have the router belt, it only aligns with the third pulley on the motor.
The router spindle is unlike the shaper spindle and has only one pulley built into?it.
I¡¯ll check the threads for John¡¯s mod.
?
On Wed, Jan 20, 2021 at 07:54 imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
On KF700 router spindle requires it¡¯s own belt.
On KF700 hood a modification is needed that John Kee shared for full or better use of router bits.
On Jan 20, 2021, at 9:49 AM, Bill B¨¦langer <Bllblngr@...> wrote:
?So yesterday I needed a roundover on a 1/2 piece of oak so I figured this is great time to try my new F700Z as a router.
First thing I noticed is that the belt will not fit on the lower motor pulley as shown on the placard on the front of the machine where it looks like you'd get 15,000 RPMs.
It will only go on the 3rd one down.
Second is that with the aigner fence, It will not go back far enough to get to the bearing on the top of the roundover bit.
You cannot use the full bit.
I'm wondering if the original Felder fence will facilitate that last 5mm of travel?
Thanks in advance
Bill B¨¦langer
|
Mark,?
Sorry that you weren't able to purchase a ZCI, but selfishly I'm very much enjoying watching you work though this design. ?Very impressive! ?
|
Jack,
John Renzetti used to make them. I can sell one for sure maybe both since my KF is a shaper only machine now. I will need to locate them first, LOL
Imran?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 20, 2021, at 11:26 AM, Jack via groups.io <hollisin@...> wrote: ?Where did you get the zci for the KF700?
|
Yes more complicated with auto scoring. For my saw however, scoring is an intentional act it is easy to implement the LED with just the scoring motor control switch.
?
Imran
On Jan 20, 2021, at 11:12 AM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
Yes is simple to add the LED however they are sensing when the blade goes on (obviously) but also in the case of auto scoring when the scoring is fully retracted plus a few seconds, the LEDs don¡¯t just turn off when the switch is flipped. I would think with the auto score it is not simply timed from turning the switch but timed when fully retracted, ?without auto score you could simply time it, also the switch is lighted but way too dim I didn¡¯t even notice that it did that until like a week or two ago.?
?
For what it¡¯s worth I think the LED is totally worth it even with auto score, i have left the switch on turned off the saw, a few days later turned on the saw not needing the scoring but assumed/didn¡¯t check if scoring was on...
?
On Jan 20, 2021, at 10:52 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Mark,
?
I do not mean to bad mouth but somehow LED feature is less impressive when seen gutted out. Your post is very timely. I am working on adding wireless switches to my slider. It did not occur to me until now but adding LEDs to turn on with scoring is not that hard. Definitely going to look into that ?
?
Imran
On Jan 20, 2021, at 10:24 AM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
Oops, and here is the original with the silicone for reference , all of the cavities below the LED were filled with silicone?
?
<image0.jpeg>
On Jan 20, 2021, at 10:19 AM, Mark Kessler via groups.io <mkessler10@...> wrote:
Hey Imran, looks like I left out some key details, there are so many for such a simple thing really.?
?
The white blob is silicone, looks like they filled most of the internal pockets of the factory section with silicone, to hold it in place and to diffuse the light. The LED¡¯s don¡¯t even line up with the holes. The gray parts are the factory supplied parts.
?
Yes the first step was to redraw/ model the exact parts that felder supplied to their dimensions, i then extruded down about 8mm for the wood insert and add the tap locations for the bolts to hole the wood insert. At that point i had to extrude pockets on the backside for the LED wiring and there is a little metal dust shield that required space relived, there are some other minor tweaks that were required to make it work.?
?
When I bolted on the 3d printed part it actually lined up dead flush with the cast, I would prefer a little adjustment so I had to drill out the washer of the bolt that holds the part onto the cast by .5 mm and that dust shield, had to file a flat on the washer so the part could have a little room to drop below the table if needed.?
?
I was resisting and really wanted to just buy it so I could get back to building furniture but couldn¡¯t take the random flying pieces of wood anymore, One of the big drawbacks of a zci for me is that you have to remove it for angle cuts but yet in another plus of moving up to the k940 over the k700 is that you don¡¯t have to remove it to change the angle, at least with a 300mm blade which is what I use.?
?
Felder should offer it but I think it would be pretty costly, they could recut the mold for the Injection molded parts but the parts they are getting out now (at least the ones on my machine) are pretty low quality, lots of shrinkage probably due to injecting too fast, cooling to fast I doubt they did a a flow analysis- could probably improve the part with scientific molding but even then plastic isn¡¯t really the right material to base a ZCI off of for this machine config, could be done but metal as the base would be better.?
?
Here are some additional screen shots for clarification.
?
Here is the dust shield with the clipped washers?
<image6.jpeg>
<image7.jpeg>
<image8.jpeg>
?
?
On Jan 20, 2021, at 7:29 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Looks Awesome. What is the white blob looking thing at the end of LED strip?
?
So looks like you are recreating what felder supplies. Is this 1st step to make ZCI?
?
I need one terribly for K975. I bought 2 for KF700 and never installed them. It was not bad because I do not have scoring. I think scoring just exacerbates the situation and cutoffs are violent. IMHO, OEM should consider ZCI implementation when designing the saw.
?
Imran
On Jan 19, 2021, at 11:27 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
So I decided I needed a zci for the new k940, thought I would get away without one but here I am... I reached out to David Best as I knew he had made one for the kappa. The k940 saw unit, top casting and 3 plastic segments appear to be the same however I have the LED lights so wasn¡¯t sure if David would be willing to modify his design and if it would be worth the time/cost to do so. After a few back and forth emails David decided to not take it on, a few key dimensions were slightly different and could require a few iterations to get it right which I agreed.?
?
David was so kind in allowing me to use his drawings, however after I started to model it and compared it to my parts in hand it wasn¡¯t adding up so I had to abandon the drawings given and just start from scratch from my actual parts.
?
So the first task was to model the LED section first as it is the most difficult to work out, then 3d print, check fit and make adjustments (done) After that 3d print all the parts to confirm (tomorrow) and finally have machined in aluminum (tbd)
?
The other unknown was how was the LED installed, the only way to find out was to remove it which would obviously void the warranty but after studying the elect schematic and looking at the parts drawings I convinced myself that it was no big deal and easy to fix if I screwed up the LED strip.?
?
So here are some progress pics... note, the 3d printed LED section is short due the the 3D printer bed not being long enough, a bolt hole is missing so it is not tight against the cast...
?
??
?
Below is the auto score feature in action with the as delivered LED section?
?
<image0.png>
<image1.png>
<image2.png>
<image3.jpeg>
<image4.jpeg>
<image5.jpeg>
<image6.jpeg>
<Video.MOV>
|
Where did you get the zci for the KF700?
|
Re: Electrical Problem with CF731 Pro
Hi Greg,
Thanks for the details. I do not know the internal design of selector switch so thought may be the old knob is slipping around TDC and the contacts are mid movement position therefore nothing starts. This likely is not the case since the full assembly had been replaced.
Like Brian mentioned, on/off switches can go along with the relay that turns the motors on but that was not my first thought based upon what you shared.
My thought is that you have a short in saw circuit and therefore as soon as it is selected an internal breaker is activated which resets upon power down/up.
I would disconnect saw from selector switch and see if anything changes. Look into Annu¡¯s recent posts. He shares how he was able to easily isolate all motors.
Hope this helps.
Imran?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 20, 2021, at 10:48 AM, Greg Goldin <goldinarch@...> wrote: ? Hi Imran,
I power off the main switch, then move the selector dial to the machines that do start, and then power back on.? So long as the selector remains on either J/P (or horizontal mortiser) or Shaper (forward or reverse), it starts and runs fine, and I can toggle between forward/reverse in that setting.? Second it goes through TDC/table saw, it's kaput.
And, yes, the selector came with a new knob. That was probably $695 for the knob, $5 for the selector!
What would the knob have to do with this?? By the way, changing the selector switch changed nothing.? Same fail, different switch.
Thanks!
Greg
On Tue, Jan 19, 2021 at 6:56 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Greg,
How do you revive it once no machine starts?
Did the selector switch come with a new knob?
Imran ?Hello.? I've been experiencing exasperating problems with the start function on my machine. I can now probably write a book about this, but suffice to say that when the selector switch is set to Table Saw, the machine fails to start.? I've worked quite a bit with Phillip Dingus at Felder.? He's been a champion, but we've failed to figure out what is happening.? I sprung for a whopping $700 to buy a new selector switch, which I meticulously installed, terminal for terminal, wire for wire, with zero effect.? The machine will start when set to J/P and Shaper, in forward or reverse, but any time the selector passes through TDC (which is the Table Saw), no machine will subsequently start.? I am wondering if there is anyone in the group who is sufficiently wise in the ways of electrical engineering to help me through the wiring diagram to perhaps pinpoint what is going wrong.? I have also traced every single wire in the machine, and compared the "as-is" wiring to the wiring diagram furnished by Felder.? There are some anomalies, but the machine worked flawlessly as wired for 19-1/2 years, so...go figure.? Any ideas of where to turn?? Thanks!? Greg
-- Rather the Ice Than Their Way --Eric the Red
|
Thanks Brian, 3d printing saves so much rework time for this kind of stuff for sure!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 20, 2021, at 9:34 AM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote:
? Nice work! I love my 3D printer, especially for this kind of stuff.
So I decided I needed a zci for the new k940, thought I would get away without one but here I am... I reached out to David Best as I knew he had made one for the kappa. The k940 saw unit, top casting and 3 plastic segments appear to be the same however I have the LED lights so wasn¡¯t sure if David would be willing to modify his design and if it would be worth the time/cost to do so. After a few back and forth emails David decided to not take it on, a few key dimensions were slightly different and could require a few iterations to get it right which I agreed.?
David was so kind in allowing me to use his drawings, however after I started to model it and compared it to my parts in hand it wasn¡¯t adding up so I had to abandon the drawings given and just start from scratch from my actual parts.
So the first task was to model the LED section first as it is the most difficult to work out, then 3d print, check fit and make adjustments (done) After that 3d print all the parts to confirm (tomorrow) and finally have machined in aluminum (tbd)
The other unknown was how was the LED installed, the only way to find out was to remove it which would obviously void the warranty but after studying the elect schematic and looking at the parts drawings I convinced myself that it was no big deal and easy to fix if I screwed up the LED strip.?
So here are some progress pics... note, the 3d printed LED section is short due the the 3D printer bed not being long enough, a bolt hole is missing so it is not tight against the cast...
??
Below is the auto score feature in action with the as delivered LED section?
|
Yes is simple to add the LED however they are sensing when the blade goes on (obviously) but also in the case of auto scoring when the scoring is fully retracted plus a few seconds, the LEDs don¡¯t just turn off when the switch is flipped. I would think with the auto score it is not simply timed from turning the switch but timed when fully retracted, ?without auto score you could simply time it, also the switch is lighted but way too dim I didn¡¯t even notice that it did that until like a week or two ago.?
For what it¡¯s worth I think the LED is totally worth it even with auto score, i have left the switch on turned off the saw, a few days later turned on the saw not needing the scoring but assumed/didn¡¯t check if scoring was on...
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 20, 2021, at 10:52 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Mark,
I do not mean to bad mouth but somehow LED feature is less impressive when seen gutted out. Your post is very timely. I am working on adding wireless switches to my slider. It did not occur to me until now but adding LEDs to turn on with scoring is not that hard. Definitely going to look into that ?
Imran
On Jan 20, 2021, at 10:24 AM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? Oops, and here is the original with the silicone for reference , all of the cavities below the LED were filled with silicone?
<image0.jpeg> On Jan 20, 2021, at 10:19 AM, Mark Kessler via groups.io <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? Hey Imran, looks like I left out some key details, there are so many for such a simple thing really.?
The white blob is silicone, looks like they filled most of the internal pockets of the factory section with silicone, to hold it in place and to diffuse the light. The LED¡¯s don¡¯t even line up with the holes. The gray parts are the factory supplied parts.
Yes the first step was to redraw/ model the exact parts that felder supplied to their dimensions, i then extruded down about 8mm for the wood insert and add the tap locations for the bolts to hole the wood insert. At that point i had to extrude pockets on the backside for the LED wiring and there is a little metal dust shield that required space relived, there are some other minor tweaks that were required to make it work.?
When I bolted on the 3d printed part it actually lined up dead flush with the cast, I would prefer a little adjustment so I had to drill out the washer of the bolt that holds the part onto the cast by .5 mm and that dust shield, had to file a flat on the washer so the part could have a little room to drop below the table if needed.?
I was resisting and really wanted to just buy it so I could get back to building furniture but couldn¡¯t take the random flying pieces of wood anymore, One of the big drawbacks of a zci for me is that you have to remove it for angle cuts but yet in another plus of moving up to the k940 over the k700 is that you don¡¯t have to remove it to change the angle, at least with a 300mm blade which is what I use.?
Felder should offer it but I think it would be pretty costly, they could recut the mold for the Injection molded parts but the parts they are getting out now (at least the ones on my machine) are pretty low quality, lots of shrinkage probably due to injecting too fast, cooling to fast I doubt they did a a flow analysis- could probably improve the part with scientific molding but even then plastic isn¡¯t really the right material to base a ZCI off of for this machine config, could be done but metal as the base would be better.?
Here are some additional screen shots for clarification.
Here is the dust shield with the clipped washers? <image6.jpeg> <image7.jpeg> <image8.jpeg>
On Jan 20, 2021, at 7:29 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Looks Awesome. What is the white blob looking thing at the end of LED strip?
So looks like you are recreating what felder supplies. Is this 1st step to make ZCI?
I need one terribly for K975. I bought 2 for KF700 and never installed them. It was not bad because I do not have scoring. I think scoring just exacerbates the situation and cutoffs are violent. IMHO, OEM should consider ZCI implementation when designing the saw.
Imran
On Jan 19, 2021, at 11:27 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? So I decided I needed a zci for the new k940, thought I would get away without one but here I am... I reached out to David Best as I knew he had made one for the kappa. The k940 saw unit, top casting and 3 plastic segments appear to be the same however I have the LED lights so wasn¡¯t sure if David would be willing to modify his design and if it would be worth the time/cost to do so. After a few back and forth emails David decided to not take it on, a few key dimensions were slightly different and could require a few iterations to get it right which I agreed.?
David was so kind in allowing me to use his drawings, however after I started to model it and compared it to my parts in hand it wasn¡¯t adding up so I had to abandon the drawings given and just start from scratch from my actual parts.
So the first task was to model the LED section first as it is the most difficult to work out, then 3d print, check fit and make adjustments (done) After that 3d print all the parts to confirm (tomorrow) and finally have machined in aluminum (tbd)
The other unknown was how was the LED installed, the only way to find out was to remove it which would obviously void the warranty but after studying the elect schematic and looking at the parts drawings I convinced myself that it was no big deal and easy to fix if I screwed up the LED strip.?
So here are some progress pics... note, the 3d printed LED section is short due the the 3D printer bed not being long enough, a bolt hole is missing so it is not tight against the cast...
??
Below is the auto score feature in action with the as delivered LED section? <image0.png> <image1.png> <image2.png> <image3.jpeg> <image4.jpeg> <image5.jpeg> <image6.jpeg> <Video.MOV>
|
Altendorf "C-45" Sliding Table Saw in Utah - $1800
|
Mark,
I do not mean to bad mouth but somehow LED feature is less impressive when seen gutted out. Your post is very timely. I am working on adding wireless switches to my slider. It did not occur to me until now but adding LEDs to turn on with scoring is not that hard. Definitely going to look into that ?
Imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 20, 2021, at 10:24 AM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote: ? Oops, and here is the original with the silicone for reference , all of the cavities below the LED were filled with silicone?
<image0.jpeg> On Jan 20, 2021, at 10:19 AM, Mark Kessler via groups.io <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? Hey Imran, looks like I left out some key details, there are so many for such a simple thing really.?
The white blob is silicone, looks like they filled most of the internal pockets of the factory section with silicone, to hold it in place and to diffuse the light. The LED¡¯s don¡¯t even line up with the holes. The gray parts are the factory supplied parts.
Yes the first step was to redraw/ model the exact parts that felder supplied to their dimensions, i then extruded down about 8mm for the wood insert and add the tap locations for the bolts to hole the wood insert. At that point i had to extrude pockets on the backside for the LED wiring and there is a little metal dust shield that required space relived, there are some other minor tweaks that were required to make it work.?
When I bolted on the 3d printed part it actually lined up dead flush with the cast, I would prefer a little adjustment so I had to drill out the washer of the bolt that holds the part onto the cast by .5 mm and that dust shield, had to file a flat on the washer so the part could have a little room to drop below the table if needed.?
I was resisting and really wanted to just buy it so I could get back to building furniture but couldn¡¯t take the random flying pieces of wood anymore, One of the big drawbacks of a zci for me is that you have to remove it for angle cuts but yet in another plus of moving up to the k940 over the k700 is that you don¡¯t have to remove it to change the angle, at least with a 300mm blade which is what I use.?
Felder should offer it but I think it would be pretty costly, they could recut the mold for the Injection molded parts but the parts they are getting out now (at least the ones on my machine) are pretty low quality, lots of shrinkage probably due to injecting too fast, cooling to fast I doubt they did a a flow analysis- could probably improve the part with scientific molding but even then plastic isn¡¯t really the right material to base a ZCI off of for this machine config, could be done but metal as the base would be better.?
Here are some additional screen shots for clarification.
Here is the dust shield with the clipped washers? <image6.jpeg> <image7.jpeg> <image8.jpeg>
On Jan 20, 2021, at 7:29 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Looks Awesome. What is the white blob looking thing at the end of LED strip?
So looks like you are recreating what felder supplies. Is this 1st step to make ZCI?
I need one terribly for K975. I bought 2 for KF700 and never installed them. It was not bad because I do not have scoring. I think scoring just exacerbates the situation and cutoffs are violent. IMHO, OEM should consider ZCI implementation when designing the saw.
Imran
On Jan 19, 2021, at 11:27 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? So I decided I needed a zci for the new k940, thought I would get away without one but here I am... I reached out to David Best as I knew he had made one for the kappa. The k940 saw unit, top casting and 3 plastic segments appear to be the same however I have the LED lights so wasn¡¯t sure if David would be willing to modify his design and if it would be worth the time/cost to do so. After a few back and forth emails David decided to not take it on, a few key dimensions were slightly different and could require a few iterations to get it right which I agreed.?
David was so kind in allowing me to use his drawings, however after I started to model it and compared it to my parts in hand it wasn¡¯t adding up so I had to abandon the drawings given and just start from scratch from my actual parts.
So the first task was to model the LED section first as it is the most difficult to work out, then 3d print, check fit and make adjustments (done) After that 3d print all the parts to confirm (tomorrow) and finally have machined in aluminum (tbd)
The other unknown was how was the LED installed, the only way to find out was to remove it which would obviously void the warranty but after studying the elect schematic and looking at the parts drawings I convinced myself that it was no big deal and easy to fix if I screwed up the LED strip.?
So here are some progress pics... note, the 3d printed LED section is short due the the 3D printer bed not being long enough, a bolt hole is missing so it is not tight against the cast...
??
Below is the auto score feature in action with the as delivered LED section? <image0.png> <image1.png> <image2.png> <image3.jpeg> <image4.jpeg> <image5.jpeg> <image6.jpeg> <Video.MOV>
|
Re: Electrical Problem with CF731 Pro
Hi Imran,
I power off the main switch, then move the selector dial to the machines that do start, and then power back on.? So long as the selector remains on either J/P (or horizontal mortiser) or Shaper (forward or reverse), it starts and runs fine, and I can toggle between forward/reverse in that setting.? Second it goes through TDC/table saw, it's kaput.
And, yes, the selector came with a new knob. That was probably $695 for the knob, $5 for the selector!
What would the knob have to do with this?? By the way, changing the selector switch changed nothing.? Same fail, different switch.
Thanks!
Greg
On Tue, Jan 19, 2021 at 6:56 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Greg,
How do you revive it once no machine starts?
Did the selector switch come with a new knob?
Imran ?Hello.? I've been experiencing exasperating problems with the start function on my machine. I can now probably write a book about this, but suffice to say that when the selector switch is set to Table Saw, the machine fails to start.? I've worked quite a bit with Phillip Dingus at Felder.? He's been a champion, but we've failed to figure out what is happening.? I sprung for a whopping $700 to buy a new selector switch, which I meticulously installed, terminal for terminal, wire for wire, with zero effect.? The machine will start when set to J/P and Shaper, in forward or reverse, but any time the selector passes through TDC (which is the Table Saw), no machine will subsequently start.? I am wondering if there is anyone in the group who is sufficiently wise in the ways of electrical engineering to help me through the wiring diagram to perhaps pinpoint what is going wrong.? I have also traced every single wire in the machine, and compared the "as-is" wiring to the wiring diagram furnished by Felder.? There are some anomalies, but the machine worked flawlessly as wired for 19-1/2 years, so...go figure.? Any ideas of where to turn?? Thanks!? Greg
-- Rather the Ice Than Their Way --Eric the Red
|
Bill Belanger
imran
Joe Jensen
Jack