Re: Hammer C-31 Planer Issue - Motor Triping
I¡¯m thinking it might be a thermal overload option.
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[Edited Message Follows]
Hey Roger,? I was able to lift it with a pallet jack and a extra set of 4x4s. ?See the attached picture. Question for the group...the new motor has six wires terminals and a ground on it instead of the 4 terminals and a ground. ?See the attached diagrams from the covers. ?On the bottom cover, what are the two blacks that seem to be their own circuit? ?Do I just leave those disconnected? -Annu
<image.jpg><image.jpg>
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Hi,
Don't know if it is what you mean or indeed will be any help. But there is a listing on e-bay UK with a panel saw with a turntable.?
Never seen one before, but thought I would mention it.
Regards,
Mark.
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I have a bf6 with the turntable. ?But no drawing. Doubtful this is s help. I remember when I moved my shop that the plate was odd in its configuration.?
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On Jan 16, 2021, at 3:22 PM, Paul Curme < paul.curme@...> wrote:
Does anyone have a copy of the drawing of the top mounting plate for the almost mythical turntable for the BF6.
I remember mounting a 6-41 M on one for an exhibition in 1994 while working for the guys that were the uk sales agent back then but cant figure out the centre point of rotation for my machine as its not as straight forward as one might expect. Because we got
it wrong at the 1st attempt.
I've located a potential bearing that is the right size and load capacity. But need the top plate layout, because the layout is to close to guess.
Catalog picture without the machine would do at a pinch.
Thanks in advance.
Sent from my Windows Phone
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The label on the bandsaw motor lists a capacitance value in the ¡°cond¡± field as shown below:
The capacitor was painted same as motor and apparently the band (holding the capacitor) is suppose to keep cap PN protected but on my machine, the cap must have shifted so there is no visible capacitance value.
I have called laguna yesterday but not sure when I will hear back. Just thought I ask here in case someone¡¯s been thru this.
Imran
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Re: Hammer C-31 Planer Issue - Motor Triping
Hey Roger,?
I was able to lift it with a pallet jack and a extra set of 4x4s. ?See the attached picture.
Question for the group...the new motor has six wires terminals and a ground on it instead of the 4 terminals and a ground. ?See the attached diagrams from the covers. ?On the bottom cover, what are the two blacks that seem to be their own circuit? ?Do I just leave those disconnected?
-Annu
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Re: Laguna LT16 SEC Bandsaw Question
Goody. I didn¡¯t know that.
My FB 540 also has an Italian motor, rated continuous duty at S1. That has always been a surprise to me as I¡¯ve not seen another Felder bandsaw of any model with an S1 motor.?
The only thing I can think of, is that I ordered my saw with a larger motor than standard.?
I hope your day is going well. Cheers.?
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On 17 Jan 2021, at 6:37 am, David Sabo via groups.io <sabo_dave@...> wrote:
?
Yes, that's pretty much all Laguna sold on these saw - especially with the Italian motors.
D
On Saturday, January 16, 2021, 3:19:51 PM EST, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
David, are you referring to single phase machines here? My ACM built FB540 does not need the switch pressed and held until the saw comes up to full speed. But my machine is Direct on Line (DOL) 3 phase. I just thought to clarify for any lurkers reading this thread on bandsaws. ... On 17 Jan 2021, at 2:18 am, David Sabo via groups.io <sabo_dave@...> wrote:
?
The switches that ACM - Laguna uses are designed to be held in the on position until the motor comes up to speed.
The upper wheel should be loose, ect.?? Its how blade tracking is accomplished.
Re-sawing
on these types of saws is not a speedy endeavor like cutting plywood on
a tablesaw.?? Adjust you expectations somewhat.
1"
is a pretty wide blade for that saw, you'd greatly benefit from 3/4"
blade.?? The xtra 1/4" isn't bringing anything to your party -
especially if you're looking for 'roughsawn'? look
D
On Saturday, January 16, 2021, 10:59:33 AM EST, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Thanks Brett,
I do not recall sawing hard wood this big. It works well in soft woods. I had a mask on due to my neighbor being there so I did not smell it but later when I went back there was strong smell of burnt wood but the saw did not leave any burn marks on the material.
Too many odd things happened yesterday. I have not used the saw in almost 2 yrs. I will try a new blade next time.
I mostly want to confirm what I noted about the top wheel. Is it suppose to be wobbly or rigid as in pulley on a shaft.
Imran?
On Jan 16, 2021, at 10:26 AM, Brett Wissel <Brettwissel@...> wrote:
? I am definitely still learning best practices in thick stock, but my experience leans toward your saw not having enough power in that motor. I upgraded to a stronger bandsaw because my 14bx really labored with 6"+ stock whether it was the load of the wood or overcoming the bind in blade flexing under stressful cuts. The new bandsaw is much better but still noteworthy how much slower stock has to be fed when it gets thicker,those gullets are dragging a lot of sawdust until they are free again. Next time try spraying some lube while cutting and see if it's the blade binding or the cutting load. RIP capacitor, too many of them being replaced and discussed recently... On Fri, Jan 15, 2021, 10:27 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: I was cutting 7¡± thick Ash log pieces today only 20¡± long and it was harder than I thought it should be. I was using 1¡± wide 2 tpi steel blade because my neighbor wanted rough sawn look. I was pushing pretty hard and stalled the saw several times then the start cap blew.
Saw has a single phase 2.5hp motor and I have to hold the switch all the way (start position) until it is running and then let go. Switch is spring loaded and it returns to run position. So as I understand it, there is no centrifugal switch because I control the inclusion of the start cap in the circuit by holding the switch in start position.
Just wanted to confirm whether my stalling the saw had anything to do with the start cap blowing.
Another question. Before I started, I replaced the 1/4¡± blade with 1¡± blade and noticed that the top wheel was wobbly. This is as I was placing the 1¡± blade so no tension. I have not noticed this before and there was no tracking issue. Hindsight, I did not check for side to side wobble but there was wobble vertically, i.e., top and bottom of the wheel moved in/out in the same axis as wood is ripped. Is this normal and I just have not noticed it. It would not surprise me that I have seen this before and just don¡¯t remember it.
I am not sure if all of what happened today is somehow connected. Looking for wisdom from the collective.
Imran
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Re: Laguna LT16 SEC Bandsaw Question
Yes, that's pretty much all Laguna sold on these saw - especially with the Italian motors.
D
On Saturday, January 16, 2021, 3:19:51 PM EST, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
David, are you referring to single phase machines here? My ACM built FB540 does not need the switch pressed and held until the saw comes up to full speed. But my machine is Direct on Line (DOL) 3 phase. I just thought to clarify for any lurkers reading this thread on bandsaws. ...
On 17 Jan 2021, at 2:18 am, David Sabo via groups.io <sabo_dave@...> wrote:
?
The switches that ACM - Laguna uses are designed to be held in the on position until the motor comes up to speed.
The upper wheel should be loose, ect.?? Its how blade tracking is accomplished.
Re-sawing
on these types of saws is not a speedy endeavor like cutting plywood on
a tablesaw.?? Adjust you expectations somewhat.
1"
is a pretty wide blade for that saw, you'd greatly benefit from 3/4"
blade.?? The xtra 1/4" isn't bringing anything to your party -
especially if you're looking for 'roughsawn'? look
D
On Saturday, January 16, 2021, 10:59:33 AM EST, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Thanks Brett,
I do not recall sawing hard wood this big. It works well in soft woods. I had a mask on due to my neighbor being there so I did not smell it but later when I went back there was strong smell of burnt wood but the saw did not leave any burn marks on the material.
Too many odd things happened yesterday. I have not used the saw in almost 2 yrs. I will try a new blade next time.
I mostly want to confirm what I noted about the top wheel. Is it suppose to be wobbly or rigid as in pulley on a shaft.
Imran?
On Jan 16, 2021, at 10:26 AM, Brett Wissel <Brettwissel@...> wrote:
? I am definitely still learning best practices in thick stock, but my experience leans toward your saw not having enough power in that motor. I upgraded to a stronger bandsaw because my 14bx really labored with 6"+ stock whether it was the load of the wood or overcoming the bind in blade flexing under stressful cuts. The new bandsaw is much better but still noteworthy how much slower stock has to be fed when it gets thicker,those gullets are dragging a lot of sawdust until they are free again. Next time try spraying some lube while cutting and see if it's the blade binding or the cutting load. RIP capacitor, too many of them being replaced and discussed recently... On Fri, Jan 15, 2021, 10:27 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: I was cutting 7¡± thick Ash log pieces today only 20¡± long and it was harder than I thought it should be. I was using 1¡± wide 2 tpi steel blade because my neighbor wanted rough sawn look. I was pushing pretty hard and stalled the saw several times then the start cap blew.
Saw has a single phase 2.5hp motor and I have to hold the switch all the way (start position) until it is running and then let go. Switch is spring loaded and it returns to run position. So as I understand it, there is no centrifugal switch because I control the inclusion of the start cap in the circuit by holding the switch in start position.
Just wanted to confirm whether my stalling the saw had anything to do with the start cap blowing.
Another question. Before I started, I replaced the 1/4¡± blade with 1¡± blade and noticed that the top wheel was wobbly. This is as I was placing the 1¡± blade so no tension. I have not noticed this before and there was no tracking issue. Hindsight, I did not check for side to side wobble but there was wobble vertically, i.e., top and bottom of the wheel moved in/out in the same axis as wood is ripped. Is this normal and I just have not noticed it. It would not surprise me that I have seen this before and just don¡¯t remember it.
I am not sure if all of what happened today is somehow connected. Looking for wisdom from the collective.
Imran
|
Does anyone have a copy of the drawing of the top mounting plate for the almost mythical turntable for the BF6.
I remember mounting a 6-41 M on one for an exhibition in 1994 while working for the guys that were the uk sales agent back then but cant figure out the centre point of rotation for my machine as its not as straight forward as one might expect. Because we got
it wrong at the 1st attempt.
I've located a potential bearing that is the right size and load capacity. But need the top plate layout, because the layout is to close to guess.
Catalog picture without the machine would do at a pinch.
Thanks in advance.
Sent from my Windows Phone
|
Re: Laguna LT16 SEC Bandsaw Question
David, are you referring to single phase machines here? My ACM built FB540 does not need the switch pressed and held until the saw comes up to full speed. But my machine is Direct on Line (DOL) 3 phase. I just thought to clarify for any lurkers reading this thread on bandsaws. ...
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 17 Jan 2021, at 2:18 am, David Sabo via groups.io <sabo_dave@...> wrote:
?
The switches that ACM - Laguna uses are designed to be held in the on position until the motor comes up to speed.
The upper wheel should be loose, ect.?? Its how blade tracking is accomplished.
Re-sawing
on these types of saws is not a speedy endeavor like cutting plywood on
a tablesaw.?? Adjust you expectations somewhat.
1"
is a pretty wide blade for that saw, you'd greatly benefit from 3/4"
blade.?? The xtra 1/4" isn't bringing anything to your party -
especially if you're looking for 'roughsawn'? look
D
On Saturday, January 16, 2021, 10:59:33 AM EST, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Thanks Brett,
I do not recall sawing hard wood this big. It works well in soft woods. I had a mask on due to my neighbor being there so I did not smell it but later when I went back there was strong smell of burnt wood but the saw did not leave any burn marks on the material.
Too many odd things happened yesterday. I have not used the saw in almost 2 yrs. I will try a new blade next time.
I mostly want to confirm what I noted about the top wheel. Is it suppose to be wobbly or rigid as in pulley on a shaft.
Imran?
On Jan 16, 2021, at 10:26 AM, Brett Wissel <Brettwissel@...> wrote:
? I am definitely still learning best practices in thick stock, but my experience leans toward your saw not having enough power in that motor. I upgraded to a stronger bandsaw because my 14bx really labored with 6"+ stock whether it was the load of the wood or overcoming the bind in blade flexing under stressful cuts. The new bandsaw is much better but still noteworthy how much slower stock has to be fed when it gets thicker,those gullets are dragging a lot of sawdust until they are free again. Next time try spraying some lube while cutting and see if it's the blade binding or the cutting load. RIP capacitor, too many of them being replaced and discussed recently... On Fri, Jan 15, 2021, 10:27 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: I was cutting 7¡± thick Ash log pieces today only 20¡± long and it was harder than I thought it should be. I was using 1¡± wide 2 tpi steel blade because my neighbor wanted rough sawn look. I was pushing pretty hard and stalled the saw several times then the start cap blew.
Saw has a single phase 2.5hp motor and I have to hold the switch all the way (start position) until it is running and then let go. Switch is spring loaded and it returns to run position. So as I understand it, there is no centrifugal switch because I control the inclusion of the start cap in the circuit by holding the switch in start position.
Just wanted to confirm whether my stalling the saw had anything to do with the start cap blowing.
Another question. Before I started, I replaced the 1/4¡± blade with 1¡± blade and noticed that the top wheel was wobbly. This is as I was placing the 1¡± blade so no tension. I have not noticed this before and there was no tracking issue. Hindsight, I did not check for side to side wobble but there was wobble vertically, i.e., top and bottom of the wheel moved in/out in the same axis as wood is ripped. Is this normal and I just have not noticed it. It would not surprise me that I have seen this before and just don¡¯t remember it.
I am not sure if all of what happened today is somehow connected. Looking for wisdom from the collective.
Imran
|
Re: Stuck planer guard of BF6
Thanks. I had pulled out, but not far enough. I have it wack with a rubber mallet to get it disengaged.? Not sure why it got hung up, but all fixed now.?
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Good afternoon.? ?As promised this morning,? I am listing the items from my shop still available for sale.? All the large Felder, Hammer & Powermatic tools (and accessories) have sold so I am now putting up the smaller / specialized woodworking tools.
- Festool?CT 22E HEPA Dust?Vacuum?c/w hose & 2 Extra Bags.??Price $400
- Apollo HVLP Sprayer?Model 1025 with 7500T Spray gun, (both only used once).? Bought in 2016 for $1,400? ?Price:? $700
- Leigh Super 18 Dovetail?Jig with Vacuum & Router support and Accessories Kit including 17 bits.? Lightly used since I prefer hand cut dovetails.? ?Price $350
- Bessey Parallel Clamps.? ?32 Total - Four 12", Twelve 24", six 36", Eight 48", two 54";? Plus support Brackets & extension connectors.? ?Best Offer
- Jorgenson Adjustable Handscrew Clamps - 10 Clamps in 3 sizes, Two #4, four #2 and four #0.? (Jaw depths 8", 6" & 4" respectively)? Best Offer
- Sjobergs 48" work bench w/ storage.? Price $400
- PSI Woodworking Tempest 1425S 14" 2.5HP dual drum cyclone Dust Collection System with 0.5 micron air filtration. Incl ~100' of 6"?spiral ducting and connectors, 12 automated blast gates and bin level indicator.??Best Offer
- Jet AFS-1000B Ceiling Mounted Air Filtration w/ brand new filter still in the package.? ?Price $100
- Delta 6¡± Belt/12¡± Disc Sander Model 31-300 with open stand.?? Price $400
- I also have a custom built ¡°New Yankee Workshop¡± router Table with 3HP Delta router and over 75 router bits I am hoping to sell.? Best Offer.?
Please send me a private message if you are interested in any of these items.? I can send photos and encourage FaceTime if you need more information on any item.? ?I will be listing anything that does not sell on eBay later next week. Thanks Rob Service?
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Re: Stuck planer guard of BF6
On my newer machine, I loosen knob (kip lever in your case) then pull the assembly out (towards kip lever) and then flip. The knob has to be out enough so that the guard assembly is sufficiently out before it will flip.
Imran?
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On Jan 16, 2021, at 1:53 PM, Jeff <jeff.lund.ca@...> wrote: ?I was preparing to plane some wood this morning so I locked down the planer guard.? On I can get it to unlock and rotate back up out of the way so I can use the full table for sawing. The kip lever is loose but the guard won't pivot upwards. I've looked and can't see what it might be causing it to bind. Any ideas? <20210116_104845.jpg>
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Re: Stuck planer guard of BF6
Pull the arm towards you / lever as you try and rotate it? ?? ? ?
Dave
On Saturday, January 16, 2021, 1:53:23 PM EST, Jeff <jeff.lund.ca@...> wrote:
I was preparing to plane some wood this morning so I locked down the planer guard.? On I can get it to unlock and rotate back up out of the way so I can use the full table for sawing. The kip lever is loose but the guard won't pivot upwards. I've looked and can't see what it might be causing it to bind. Any ideas? 
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Stuck planer guard of BF6
I was preparing to plane some wood this morning so I locked down the planer guard.? On I can get it to unlock and rotate back up out of the way so I can use the full table for sawing. The kip lever is loose but the guard won't pivot upwards. I've looked and can't see what it might be causing it to bind. Any ideas? 
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Richard I finally got round to unbolting my hood this afternoon, so here are some pictures.
Bear in mind that the front mounting pints were designed for an early BF6 that only had the 4 studs to support the spindle moulder infill rings,
So on a metal hood for a later machine you could move the mounts back about 20mm.
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Thanks Again Paul. I was just hoping to restore it as near as new as possible with original parts but hey ho!
I'd like a high speed moulder spindle for router bits but I guess these are more than buying a complete dedicated table router!
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Re: Table extensions on a BF6
hmmm, I'll have a think. I was also thinking about just having a roller either on it's own stand or on some form of attachment.
My machine is not fixed in place yet as I haven't got started with any sort of work flow.
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Re: Laguna LT16 SEC Bandsaw Question
David,
No, you did not come of snarky.
My curiosity knows no bounds ???
Imran
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On Jan 16, 2021, at 12:38 PM, David Sabo via groups.io <sabo_dave@...> wrote: ?
If I came off snarky, that wasn't my intent.??? I too, would value the electrical education.
D
On Saturday, January 16, 2021, 12:20:36 PM EST, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
David,
I agree that I do not want to bog down the saw. Actually, I would not have proceeded if it was my own project. However, as an engineer, I want to learn from every experience.
I really appreciate your feedback.
Imran
On Jan 16, 2021, at 12:13 PM, David Sabo via groups.io <sabo_dave@...> wrote:
?
Can't help on the cap issue, not an EE, and I've never paid attention to the wiring of the saw.?
Whether it did, or didn't, shouldn't really concern you.? Bogging the down the saw isn't good for a number of reasons.?? Just don't do it - then it doesn't matter whether it affects the cap.? Put another way: are you going to continue to bog it down if absolutely doesn't affect the cap ? ? ???
Wood slicer give a smoother cut, but is quickly , I mean very quickly, dulled.?? Especially in rough wood.?? Those type blades usually only make sense for slicing thin exotic, expensive veneers, where the value of the wood made into sawdust is measured in real money.
Ash is pretty hard, and your piece is wet if it's a log.? Not an easy task. You shouldn't expect smooth fast sailing , despite what you've read or heard about laguna and RK blades.
D
On Saturday, January 16, 2021, 11:49:51 AM EST, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
David,
Thanks for confirming that the upper wheel is normal.
On the switch, I just wanted to confirm that me bogging the saw did not blow the start cap. I imagine with a centrifugal switch (opposed to manual switch) the start cap could be reengaged every time RPMs fall below a certain threshold.
I have the carbide resaw king which so far has worked great. I plan to try a wood slicer some day.
This saw is small but has no vibration and cuts 1/16 thin veneers with little variation. At least last time i tried it. I have resawn 2x12 Cypress successfully. All I am saying is that it has done what i need to do until yesterday.
Imran
On Jan 16, 2021, at 11:18 AM, David Sabo via groups.io <sabo_dave@...> wrote:
?
The switches that ACM - Laguna uses are designed to be held in the on position until the motor comes up to speed.
The upper wheel should be loose, ect.?? Its how blade tracking is accomplished.
Re-sawing
on these types of saws is not a speedy endeavor like cutting plywood on
a tablesaw.?? Adjust you expectations somewhat.
1"
is a pretty wide blade for that saw, you'd greatly benefit from 3/4"
blade.?? The xtra 1/4" isn't bringing anything to your party -
especially if you're looking for 'roughsawn'? look
D
On Saturday, January 16, 2021, 10:59:33 AM EST, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Thanks Brett,
I do not recall sawing hard wood this big. It works well in soft woods. I had a mask on due to my neighbor being there so I did not smell it but later when I went back there was strong smell of burnt wood but the saw did not leave any burn marks on the material.
Too many odd things happened yesterday. I have not used the saw in almost 2 yrs. I will try a new blade next time.
I mostly want to confirm what I noted about the top wheel. Is it suppose to be wobbly or rigid as in pulley on a shaft.
Imran?
On Jan 16, 2021, at 10:26 AM, Brett Wissel <Brettwissel@...> wrote:
? I am definitely still learning best practices in thick stock, but my experience leans toward your saw not having enough power in that motor. I upgraded to a stronger bandsaw because my 14bx really labored with 6"+ stock whether it was the load of the wood or overcoming the bind in blade flexing under stressful cuts. The new bandsaw is much better but still noteworthy how much slower stock has to be fed when it gets thicker,those gullets are dragging a lot of sawdust until they are free again. Next time try spraying some lube while cutting and see if it's the blade binding or the cutting load. RIP capacitor, too many of them being replaced and discussed recently... On Fri, Jan 15, 2021, 10:27 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: I was cutting 7¡± thick Ash log pieces today only 20¡± long and it was harder than I thought it should be. I was using 1¡± wide 2 tpi steel blade because my neighbor wanted rough sawn look. I was pushing pretty hard and stalled the saw several times then the start cap blew.
Saw has a single phase 2.5hp motor and I have to hold the switch all the way (start position) until it is running and then let go. Switch is spring loaded and it returns to run position. So as I understand it, there is no centrifugal switch because I control the inclusion of the start cap in the circuit by holding the switch in start position.
Just wanted to confirm whether my stalling the saw had anything to do with the start cap blowing.
Another question. Before I started, I replaced the 1/4¡± blade with 1¡± blade and noticed that the top wheel was wobbly. This is as I was placing the 1¡± blade so no tension. I have not noticed this before and there was no tracking issue. Hindsight, I did not check for side to side wobble but there was wobble vertically, i.e., top and bottom of the wheel moved in/out in the same axis as wood is ripped. Is this normal and I just have not noticed it. It would not surprise me that I have seen this before and just don¡¯t remember it.
I am not sure if all of what happened today is somehow connected. Looking for wisdom from the collective.
Imran
|
Re: Laguna LT16 SEC Bandsaw Question
If I came off snarky, that wasn't my intent.??? I too, would value the electrical education.
D
On Saturday, January 16, 2021, 12:20:36 PM EST, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
David,
I agree that I do not want to bog down the saw. Actually, I would not have proceeded if it was my own project. However, as an engineer, I want to learn from every experience.
I really appreciate your feedback.
Imran
On Jan 16, 2021, at 12:13 PM, David Sabo via groups.io <sabo_dave@...> wrote: ?
Can't help on the cap issue, not an EE, and I've never paid attention to the wiring of the saw.?
Whether it did, or didn't, shouldn't really concern you.? Bogging the down the saw isn't good for a number of reasons.?? Just don't do it - then it doesn't matter whether it affects the cap.? Put another way: are you going to continue to bog it down if absolutely doesn't affect the cap ? ? ???
Wood slicer give a smoother cut, but is quickly , I mean very quickly, dulled.?? Especially in rough wood.?? Those type blades usually only make sense for slicing thin exotic, expensive veneers, where the value of the wood made into sawdust is measured in real money.
Ash is pretty hard, and your piece is wet if it's a log.? Not an easy task. You shouldn't expect smooth fast sailing , despite what you've read or heard about laguna and RK blades.
D
On Saturday, January 16, 2021, 11:49:51 AM EST, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
David,
Thanks for confirming that the upper wheel is normal.
On the switch, I just wanted to confirm that me bogging the saw did not blow the start cap. I imagine with a centrifugal switch (opposed to manual switch) the start cap could be reengaged every time RPMs fall below a certain threshold.
I have the carbide resaw king which so far has worked great. I plan to try a wood slicer some day.
This saw is small but has no vibration and cuts 1/16 thin veneers with little variation. At least last time i tried it. I have resawn 2x12 Cypress successfully. All I am saying is that it has done what i need to do until yesterday.
Imran
On Jan 16, 2021, at 11:18 AM, David Sabo via groups.io <sabo_dave@...> wrote:
?
The switches that ACM - Laguna uses are designed to be held in the on position until the motor comes up to speed.
The upper wheel should be loose, ect.?? Its how blade tracking is accomplished.
Re-sawing
on these types of saws is not a speedy endeavor like cutting plywood on
a tablesaw.?? Adjust you expectations somewhat.
1"
is a pretty wide blade for that saw, you'd greatly benefit from 3/4"
blade.?? The xtra 1/4" isn't bringing anything to your party -
especially if you're looking for 'roughsawn'? look
D
On Saturday, January 16, 2021, 10:59:33 AM EST, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
Thanks Brett,
I do not recall sawing hard wood this big. It works well in soft woods. I had a mask on due to my neighbor being there so I did not smell it but later when I went back there was strong smell of burnt wood but the saw did not leave any burn marks on the material.
Too many odd things happened yesterday. I have not used the saw in almost 2 yrs. I will try a new blade next time.
I mostly want to confirm what I noted about the top wheel. Is it suppose to be wobbly or rigid as in pulley on a shaft.
Imran?
On Jan 16, 2021, at 10:26 AM, Brett Wissel <Brettwissel@...> wrote:
? I am definitely still learning best practices in thick stock, but my experience leans toward your saw not having enough power in that motor. I upgraded to a stronger bandsaw because my 14bx really labored with 6"+ stock whether it was the load of the wood or overcoming the bind in blade flexing under stressful cuts. The new bandsaw is much better but still noteworthy how much slower stock has to be fed when it gets thicker,those gullets are dragging a lot of sawdust until they are free again. Next time try spraying some lube while cutting and see if it's the blade binding or the cutting load. RIP capacitor, too many of them being replaced and discussed recently... On Fri, Jan 15, 2021, 10:27 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: I was cutting 7¡± thick Ash log pieces today only 20¡± long and it was harder than I thought it should be. I was using 1¡± wide 2 tpi steel blade because my neighbor wanted rough sawn look. I was pushing pretty hard and stalled the saw several times then the start cap blew.
Saw has a single phase 2.5hp motor and I have to hold the switch all the way (start position) until it is running and then let go. Switch is spring loaded and it returns to run position. So as I understand it, there is no centrifugal switch because I control the inclusion of the start cap in the circuit by holding the switch in start position.
Just wanted to confirm whether my stalling the saw had anything to do with the start cap blowing.
Another question. Before I started, I replaced the 1/4¡± blade with 1¡± blade and noticed that the top wheel was wobbly. This is as I was placing the 1¡± blade so no tension. I have not noticed this before and there was no tracking issue. Hindsight, I did not check for side to side wobble but there was wobble vertically, i.e., top and bottom of the wheel moved in/out in the same axis as wood is ripped. Is this normal and I just have not noticed it. It would not surprise me that I have seen this before and just don¡¯t remember it.
I am not sure if all of what happened today is somehow connected. Looking for wisdom from the collective.
Imran
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Re: Laguna LT16 SEC Bandsaw Question
Thanks Brian. Funny I have not noticed this before in 20 yrs. Granted I have not been a heavy user. The very basic exploded diagram does not show this detail.
Imran
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On Jan 16, 2021, at 12:23 PM, Brian Lamb <blamb11@...> wrote: ? Wobbly in the vertical direction. The upper wheel is mounted on a pivot point and the tracking adjustment changes the tilt of the wheel. Without any blade tension to hold it down, the blade should pivot.
Thanks Brett,
I do not recall sawing hard wood this big. It works well in soft woods. I had a mask on due to my neighbor being there so I did not smell it but later when I went back there was strong smell of burnt wood but the saw did not leave any burn marks on the material.
Too many odd things happened yesterday. I have not used the saw in almost 2 yrs. I will try a new blade next time.
I mostly want to confirm what I noted about the top wheel. Is it suppose to be wobbly or rigid as in pulley on a shaft.
Imran? ? I am definitely still learning best practices in thick stock, but my experience leans toward your saw not having enough power in that motor. I upgraded to a stronger bandsaw because my 14bx really labored with 6"+ stock whether it was the load of the wood or overcoming the bind in blade flexing under stressful cuts. The new bandsaw is much better but still noteworthy how much slower stock has to be fed when it gets thicker,those gullets are dragging a lot of sawdust until they are free again. Next time try spraying some lube while cutting and see if it's the blade binding or the cutting load. RIP capacitor, too many of them being replaced and discussed recently... On Fri, Jan 15, 2021, 10:27 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: I was cutting 7¡± thick Ash log pieces today only 20¡± long and it was harder than I thought it should be. I was using 1¡± wide 2 tpi steel blade because my neighbor wanted rough sawn look. I was pushing pretty hard and stalled the saw several times then the start cap blew.
Saw has a single phase 2.5hp motor and I have to hold the switch all the way (start position) until it is running and then let go. Switch is spring loaded and it returns to run position. So as I understand it, there is no centrifugal switch because I control the inclusion of the start cap in the circuit by holding the switch in start position.
Just wanted to confirm whether my stalling the saw had anything to do with the start cap blowing.
Another question. Before I started, I replaced the 1/4¡± blade with 1¡± blade and noticed that the top wheel was wobbly. This is as I was placing the 1¡± blade so no tension. I have not noticed this before and there was no tracking issue. Hindsight, I did not check for side to side wobble but there was wobble vertically, i.e., top and bottom of the wheel moved in/out in the same axis as wood is ripped. Is this normal and I just have not noticed it. It would not surprise me that I have seen this before and just don¡¯t remember it.
I am not sure if all of what happened today is somehow connected. Looking for wisdom from the collective.
Imran
|
Re: Laguna LT16 SEC Bandsaw Question
Wobbly in the vertical direction. The upper wheel is mounted on a pivot point and the tracking adjustment changes the tilt of the wheel. Without any blade tension to hold it down, the blade should pivot.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks Brett,
I do not recall sawing hard wood this big. It works well in soft woods. I had a mask on due to my neighbor being there so I did not smell it but later when I went back there was strong smell of burnt wood but the saw did not leave any burn marks on the material.
Too many odd things happened yesterday. I have not used the saw in almost 2 yrs. I will try a new blade next time.
I mostly want to confirm what I noted about the top wheel. Is it suppose to be wobbly or rigid as in pulley on a shaft.
Imran? ? I am definitely still learning best practices in thick stock, but my experience leans toward your saw not having enough power in that motor. I upgraded to a stronger bandsaw because my 14bx really labored with 6"+ stock whether it was the load of the wood or overcoming the bind in blade flexing under stressful cuts. The new bandsaw is much better but still noteworthy how much slower stock has to be fed when it gets thicker,those gullets are dragging a lot of sawdust until they are free again. Next time try spraying some lube while cutting and see if it's the blade binding or the cutting load. RIP capacitor, too many of them being replaced and discussed recently... On Fri, Jan 15, 2021, 10:27 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: I was cutting 7¡± thick Ash log pieces today only 20¡± long and it was harder than I thought it should be. I was using 1¡± wide 2 tpi steel blade because my neighbor wanted rough sawn look. I was pushing pretty hard and stalled the saw several times then the start cap blew.
Saw has a single phase 2.5hp motor and I have to hold the switch all the way (start position) until it is running and then let go. Switch is spring loaded and it returns to run position. So as I understand it, there is no centrifugal switch because I control the inclusion of the start cap in the circuit by holding the switch in start position.
Just wanted to confirm whether my stalling the saw had anything to do with the start cap blowing.
Another question. Before I started, I replaced the 1/4¡± blade with 1¡± blade and noticed that the top wheel was wobbly. This is as I was placing the 1¡± blade so no tension. I have not noticed this before and there was no tracking issue. Hindsight, I did not check for side to side wobble but there was wobble vertically, i.e., top and bottom of the wheel moved in/out in the same axis as wood is ripped. Is this normal and I just have not noticed it. It would not surprise me that I have seen this before and just don¡¯t remember it.
I am not sure if all of what happened today is somehow connected. Looking for wisdom from the collective.
Imran
|
imran
David Luckensmeyer