On 17 Jan 2021, at 2:18 am, David Sabo via groups.io <sabo_dave@...> wrote:

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The switches that ACM - Laguna uses are designed to be held in the on position until the motor comes up to speed.

The upper wheel should be loose, ect.?? Its how blade tracking is accomplished.

Re-sawing on these types of saws is not a speedy endeavor like cutting plywood on a tablesaw.?? Adjust you expectations somewhat.

1" is a pretty wide blade for that saw, you'd greatly benefit from 3/4" blade.?? The xtra 1/4" isn't bringing anything to your party - especially if you're looking for 'roughsawn'? look

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On Saturday, January 16, 2021, 10:59:33 AM EST, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:

Thanks Brett,

I do not recall sawing hard wood this big. It works well in soft woods. I had a mask on due to my neighbor being there so I did not smell it but later when I went back there was strong smell of burnt wood but the saw did not leave any burn marks on the material.

Too many odd things happened yesterday. I have not used the saw in almost 2 yrs. I will try a new blade next time.

I mostly want to confirm what I noted about the top wheel. Is it suppose to be wobbly or rigid as in pulley on a shaft.

Imran?

On Jan 16, 2021, at 10:26 AM, Brett Wissel <Brettwissel@...> wrote:

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I am definitely still learning best practices in thick stock, but my experience leans toward your saw not having enough power in that motor. I upgraded to a stronger bandsaw because my 14bx really labored with 6"+ stock whether it was the load of the wood or overcoming the bind in blade flexing under stressful cuts. The new bandsaw is much better but still noteworthy how much slower stock has to be fed when it gets thicker,those gullets are dragging a lot of sawdust until they are free again. Next time try spraying some lube while cutting and see if it's the blade binding or the cutting load. RIP capacitor, too many of them being replaced and discussed recently...

On Fri, Jan 15, 2021, 10:27 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:

I was cutting 7” thick Ash log pieces today only 20” long and it was harder than I thought it should be. I was using 1” wide 2 tpi steel blade because my neighbor wanted rough sawn look. I was pushing pretty hard and stalled the saw several times then the start cap blew.

Saw has a single phase 2.5hp motor and I have to hold the switch all the way (start position) until it is running and then let go. Switch is spring loaded and it returns to run position. So as I understand it, there is no centrifugal switch because I control the inclusion of the start cap in the circuit by holding the switch in start position.

Just wanted to confirm whether my stalling the saw had anything to do with the start cap blowing.

Another question. Before I started, I replaced the 1/4” blade with 1” blade and noticed that the top wheel was wobbly. This is as I was placing the 1” blade so no tension. I have not noticed this before and there was no tracking issue. Hindsight, I did not check for side to side wobble but there was wobble vertically, i.e., top and bottom of the wheel moved in/out in the same axis as wood is ripped. Is this normal and I just have not noticed it. It would not surprise me that I have seen this before and just don’t remember it.

I am not sure if all of what happened today is somehow connected. Looking for wisdom from the collective.

Imran