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About to start a year plus addition and renovation at the house/workshop which will require me to put my beloved KF700s into storage.? Despite loving this saw, I’ve been thinking that I would eventually like to upgrade, so it may make sense to sell it now.? Would love some help with a few questions for those that have purchased or sold successfully.

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Price:? Is there a good rule of thumb for pricing strategy? Percent of new? Other?

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Location to sell:

craigslist, here, woodweb, anywhere else?

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How do you deal with payment for such large items with likely distant buyer? I've done a fair bit of craigslist purchasing/selling with cash payments but it has always been local buy/sell and cash only.? No idea how to protect myself and the buyer for this transaction and any feedback would be greatly appreciated. ?

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The saw will shortly be placed in storage and not under power.? If you were buying such a saw, (beyond the normal photos), what video/s would you want to see to show the saw is in great condition and performing properly since it won’t be operable in the coming weeks. ?

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thanks so much,?

Anthony?

On Jan 12, 2021, at 10:44 AM, Anthony Yoder <anthony_yoder@...> wrote:

I used??when I bought my A3-31 from across the country.? I didn't have any issues with the transaction so I can't vouch at all for their assistance if it had been needed.

Anthony

On Jan 11, 2021, at 11:28 PM, Michaelsbemis@... wrote:

Anthony,

Perhaps add eBay to your sales ad for advertising and payment options with local pickup. I have purchased two Felder items from Craigslist where the seller was a contractor and accepted a business check and I accepted his word the machine was functioning without issue. We are in the same state and issued a bill of sale providing me recourse if there was an issue. Pricing was around 50% of new on a few year old saw with factors depressing the price likely being machine size and power requirements. Garage users in residential areas aren't generally going after 10' sliders requiring 3 phase power lowering demand. For a sought after smaller machine perhaps 65-80% would be reasonable and of course current replacement costs and long lead-times may help pull up the price. I have seen Felder equipment being sold used for the same price as a new one on special which baffles me but the lack of public pricing and sellers patience may pay off. Ask what you believe is fair and if you ultimately decide to put in storage be sure to protect the castings and bearing tracks including exposed blackened screws (Others here should have words of wisdom on how to best accomplish it).

Found this rather current discussion on buying a kF700.?

As for buyer reassurance photos I would suggest taking plenty of high resolution images from all exterior sides and off angles including inside the machine with the intention of showing any defects (not hiding anything) and giving the prospective purchaser a good feel of the actual machine without surprises. A video of startup and activating each feature including commentary of anything unexpected should serve you well in ensuring the buyer there are no hidden repair bills they will use to justify offering a lower price. Point out the bearings are clean and nick free for example. Take clean photos of the serial number and power requirements that show phase and machine age. Keep any compatible accessories for your future saw if you have plans that far out.

I'll be following this as well having an automatic dovetailing machine taking up space and who doesn't dream of getting a new slider....mine doesn't have the scoring blade auto rise or safety lights. This forum is going to be costly.

--
Mike B

On Jan 11, 2021, at 8:22 PM, Michaelsbemis@... wrote:

Not being as creative as Mark in the moment and wanting an "OEM" look, I purchased the read strip and DRO from Brian Lamb and can attest it fits perfectly in the Felder extrusion on my K940s. The attached rectangular read head will fit through the existing hole in the fence casting with minor filing. At the time there was no time to complete the housing so duct tape it was. Ordered a few Felder parts and one of these days I'll make a filler piece to hold the display or 3D print the entire thing.?

<dro 2.jpg><dro 1.jpg>
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Mike B <dro 3.jpg>

On 11 Jan 2021, at 23:26, richard_markham@... via groups.io <richard_markham@...> wrote:

?Thanks again chaps!

Tomorrow is looking wet all day and temps into double figures, so I will have all day to play tunes on those planer blades!

I've had this RL-125 for 15 or 16 years and I want to know what does this adjust?
I have not changed the setting, but if I did, what will change?



Thanks in advance,
Phil

On 11 Jan 2021, at 20:23, Paul Curme <paul.curme@...> wrote:

?

To:

• [email protected]

Richard,

It sounds like the previous owner confused the planner block for a moulder block and messed with the wrong screws.

1st step is to number the cutter bars and the slots as the block would have been dynamically balanced with them in so it is best not to shuffle them around.

Next mark a datum line across the block with a thin permanent marker an exact distance behind one of the cutter slots. As thin a line as possible

with a DTI and base check that the out feed table is level with the block, if its not then you will either need to adjust the tables again, or the thicknesser table would have to be adjusted, not a job I would like to try on an excellent day let alone a good or average one....

The height adjustment screws were not thread locked in just biblically tight in there threads (like so many other bits on a BF6) which is compounded by the fine dust that accumulates in the threads.

Sorry fat fingered moment while writing

So at this point it is worth thoroughly stripping and cleaning the cutter bars.

Set the DIT to the top dead centre position on the Block using your reference line draw earlier. at this point it is notable that having two DTI's on based makes this 10 time quicker

Reassemble one bar with all the screws wound flush with the base of the bar and fit with a knife into the block using the DTI set to Zero against the outfeed table bring the two ends of the knife up level to the table,

Note: You will have to play tunes on the clamping screws versus the height adjusters as you do this.

Note: The DTI should be positioned in line with the Height adjustment screws at either end.

At this point only set the knife height using the outer two height adjustment screws.

Once the knife is level bring it approx. 0.003 to 0.005 above the level of the table, this should carry a test piece of timber 3-5mm 1/8"-3/16"as the knife is moved pasted TDC

Lock the clamping screw at one end and move the DTI to the other.

Adjust the inner clamping screws closest to the DTI downwards until you see a movement on the DTI, back it of until you return to your original reading.

Move the DTI to the other end and repeat the process. you may need to repeat this step twice.

Once you are happy that the Knife is level all the way across with the clamping screws tight slacken of all the clamping screw and re tighten from the middle out and check again and then repeat and check again.

Remove the knife and holder and measure the projection of the height adjustment screws, they should be the same within a few thou, if not check the cutter slot for any wear or damage.

Set the outer height adjustment screws to the same level as your 1st blade holder and install into the block.

Check and adjust the height at each end and adjust, then repeat the process for the inner height adjusters as previously stated.

Keep checking as you go around the block, remove all the cutter bars and refit making sure that any variance is down to a minimum.

Additional helpful hints.

Always tighten the clamping screws from the middle out.

Lock the workshop door,?

Tell anyone that might disturb you that you are either out or going to murder anyone that disturbs you until you are done.

If its not working , walk away and come back tomorrow as today was not your day for this, no body is likely to die if it does not get done today

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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of richard_markham@... via groups.io <richard_markham@...>
Sent: 11 January 2021 18:49
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: [FOG] BF6 Jointer/[planer blade setting #jointerplaner #jpsetup

?

Hi all,

Having finally got my Joiner tables set correctly (thanks for the help on that!), I'm turning my attention to the planer blades.

I read in the manual that these don't need any adjustment, but having had a look at them with a DTI, they are not set properly. So yet again, the manual is no help! (I know its an old machine but the manual really was pretty poor...)

I took all the blades and carriers out and can see that the depth setting grub screws were not all set to the same distance. I would assume that orginally these might be factory set and locktited in?

Is there a good way to set the blade heights? Do it with the blades installed in the block or set the depth grub screws in the carrier, out of the cutter block?

Cheers!

Richard.