¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

ctrl + shift + ? for shortcuts
© 2025 Groups.io

Splintering on cuts...


Philip Tamarkin
 

I'm running an '88 BF-5 - has a scoring unit, but I haven't bothered using it 'cause
I'm getting great cuts without splintering - NB: I'm not running melamine or 2-sided
plastic laminate at all, thank God, and I'll use the scorer if I do! - here are the
secrets I know.

1. Great blades make a difference - flatness of plate is most crucial - check a # of
blades from the same manufacturor, and you'll find quite a bit of latitude in the
plates. If you get something within a couple of thousandths of flat, cherish it, and
use it for your finest cuts. I'm running Felder's 96 tooth "Silent Power", which does
a good job of non-splintering, and a 96 tooth Tenryu (stock blade, made to fit
Altendorf) that cuts perfectly-best I've ever used! At about $140 it's a little less
expensive than the Felder. Don't mess with a thin kerf - some cut clean, but mostly
the thin plate distorts when overheated, I'm sticking with only 3.2 mm kerf - saves
resetting the fence every time I change a blade, too! Obviously, razor-sharp (and with
sides of teeth jointed during sharpening) matters.

2. Check arbor run-out on the saw - best blade in the world will cut badly if the
arbor's out - change bearings, if necessary, or have a machinist recut the arbor face
accurately.

3. Zero-clearance throat plate will help a lot, but won't work w/your machine. The
BF-5 blade sits several inches away from the slider, so I can make an insert, but
haven't needed to.

4. Try to arrange that you're taking at least 1/2" or so off with every cut. The
hairline cuts seem to want to splinter worse.

5. USING EXTREME CAUTION AND A BLADE GUARD make your cut with the blade raised as high
as possible - this results in the tooth meeting the underside of the panel as near to
parallel (no angle...) as possible, and will help minimize chip out.

6. High angle ATB blades (30 degree...) have worked well for me - cove-faced tooth
configuration works well when sharp, but cut quality deteriorates rapidly, and tend to
go from workably sharp to dead-dull without a moment's notice!

Scorers are their own set of problems - try these tips, and maybe you can avoid!
-Philip Tamarkin
dolsid wrote:

Scott: I didn't have any experience with combination machines when I bought
my 7-41 so I made some Rookie mistakes. Two features I am thinking of
looking into field modifications for are the electric drive for the planer
bed which you mentioned and a scoring unit. Of the two I think the scorning
unit is the best buy since I have not been to achieve the quality of tear
out free cross-cutting on the Felder that I had with my own Woodworker II
thin kerf blade I used on an old Delta in the cabinet shop where I rented
shop time. I have used a new 10' thin kerf Woodworker II (the old one was
replaced by Forrest when they found that their jig had gotten out of adjust
for drilling the pin holes in the old one), a 12" Woodworker II and a 12"
Felder blade and a zero offset insert. None of these blades produce a tear
out free cross-cut Although the tear out is very small. I think the reason
for this is the position of the insert next to sliding table doesn't allow
enough support even with a zero clearance insert. If some of the more
experienced members of this group have anything they think I am doing wrong,
I would appreciate hearing from them. My work- around is to set the
splitter below the top of the blade when I need to make a scorning pass
before a cross-cut. With the planer you have to lower the bed enough to
allow the dust cover to flip over to the jointer position before lowering
and locking the jointer beds in place. I usually mill several boards at the
same time and after jointing I run all of them through the same planer
setting insuring constant thickness. If you have a work flow which requires
going back and forth from the jointer to the planer, lowering the planer bed
would get old fast. An option I would suggest to stay away from is for
using a dado set. I still don't have mine implemented and will have as much
tied up in it as one of the above. ----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Slater" <scott@...>
To: <felder-woodworking@...>
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 1:39 PM
Subject: [felder-woodworking] Electrical Controls on Thicknesser

HI,

I am interested in the electric raise and lower on the thickness planer
(not the numeric panel - only the buttons). My machine will be built in
Austria next week (finally), so I cannot add it at the factory, it
would have to be installed here.

Do any of the members here have that feature, and if so are you happy
with it - is it worth the $840 + install? Thanks - Scott


------------------------------------------------------------------------
To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to:
felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...

------------------------------------------------------------------------
eGroups.com Home:
- Simplifying group communications


------------------------------------------------------------------------
To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@...
To Unsubscribe, send a blank message to: felder-woodworking-unsubscribe@...

------------------------------------------------------------------------

eGroups.com home:
- Simplifying group communications

Join [email protected] to automatically receive all group messages.