Re: Sliding Table ¡°90 Degree Jig¡± #sawsetup
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi Brian: ? Apologies, I should have provided more detailed photos. ? The bookcase uprights in Zebrano are composed of a solid wood core lamination with 3mm thick shop sawn Zebrano veneers on both faces. This is the material I¡¯ve been machining for the half laps. ? ? ? If you look closely at the photo below, you can see that I have edge laminated the back side of the uprights with Zebrano veneers, prior to the half lap machining process. This worked well. ? ? The problem with the front edge is that it will be curved. I could not machine the curve until the half lap joints were done. This means that the front edge laminations have to be applied after the machining is done. ? The horizontal shelves sit out from the uprights by 20mm. In the photo below you can see how the shelves are proud, and you can see the laminated nature of the uprights. ? ? My dilemma is how best to apply/trim laminations to the front edge, between each shelf, on the soon-to-be-curved front edges of the uprights. Gluing will be tedious. I¡¯m thinking of using dozens of clamps like this: ? ? But how to trim the laminations to length after the glue dries? I guess the flush cut hand saw method is the best one I can think of. ? Warm regards, Lucky ? From:
[email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> Hi Lucky, ? I'm not following the need to laminate the front edges of the uprights? The sides are solid wood, correct? Are you doing it to cover the slots and make the front surface proud of the shelves by 2mm? Color me confused... ? Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com ? ? On Sunday, July 14, 2024 at 08:25:22 PM MST, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote: ? ? Hi FOG: ? By way of update, the aforementioned Leitz blade is phenomenal. It cuts as smoothly as any blade I¡¯ve owned which is saying something for such a large blade with relatively narrow kerf width of 3.5mm. The details appear again here, just in case anyone else wants to consider it as a 400mm blade option: item number 133130, 400mm diameter, 3.5mm kerf. 2.5mm body, 30mm bore, 96 teeth, 10 degree irregular pitch, ATB. ? This is the first time I¡¯ve used a blade of this size. The dust it throws off is horrendous; I assume it has something to do with making 125mm and 135mm deep cuts. My 3M Dustmaster is in continuous use. ? ? This is very fine dust from a couple of hours work at the saw: ? In the end, the powered rip fence and associated programming has been gold. I¡¯ve used the special programs on the overhead display a lot, including rebating, trenching, etc., but I must say that I have not really used the specific programming mode for the Kappa 400. It is wonderful. ? There are 10 program positions, and each of those 10 has 100 spaces to enter specific parameters that can be called up at the press of an arrow key and the start button on the overhead display. You can imagine its use as follows. For the first half lap joint, I needed a cut at 125mm deep, at 120mm from the end of the Zebrano board. So for P1 (where ¡°P¡± stands for ¡°Program¡±), number 1, I¡¯ve entered 125mm blade height, 0 degrees blade tilt, and 120mm rip fence position. It works out that I need the fence (which is acting as a bump stop) to move over 16.1mm to give the half lap width I need, so I¡¯ve programmed the number 2 position with 125mm blade height, 0 degrees blade tilt, and 136.1mm rip fence position for the second cut (i.e. both shoulders of the lap joint). And so forth and so on for all 7 half lap joint positions along the bookcase upright. After 4 cuts, my rip fence is out at about 1150mm. So at this point I have to flip the upright end for end and start again on the final 3 shelf positions (working from the top of the uprights). This is made easy using the programming on the Kappa 400. Obviously my uprights all need to be dimensioned accurately which I have done. ? I forgot to say that I could not use special programming function which the Kappa 400 offers, where the rip fence can be programmed for a number of grooves or trenches of a specific width and depth, at fixed intervals. The reason? Because my shelves are deeper at the bottom and much shallower at the top, so the position of each half lap joint on the uprights is of decreasing distance (from the bottom up) and increasing distance (from the top down). Programming mode made this process easy. Seems like cheating. Comparing uprights at random, and I¡¯d say the 0.1mm claimed tolerance is verified. I¡¯ve used lots of compressed air between cuts to make sure registrations are accurate, and I¡¯d say the Kappa 400 has worked as advertised. I strongly recommend a Felder powered rip fence as a wonderful option. ? Anyway, the 3.5mm blade width allowed for 6 passes to remove the waste for each half-lap joint. No drilling, no knocking out timber, no marking lines, and definitely no chiselling. I¡¯ve decided I can live with the bumpy but regularly reliable surface in the middle of each half lap joint. ? ? Last night I assembled the first and smallest of the bookcases. It went together very nicely but I think I¡¯m going to tweak the Walnut shelves (through the wide belt sander) so the fit is less tight. In the picture below, you¡¯ll see the upper shelves don¡¯t seem the correct width. That¡¯s because the uprights have not been curved yet, to reflect the design where shelves at the bottom are full depth (260mm) while the shelves become less deep by the top (210mm). ? l¡¯ll use a template to pattern route the curve after I¡¯m completely satisfied with the joinery. And then another tricky part is headed my way: I have to edge laminate 2mm solid Zebrano onto the front edges of all the curved uprights. I¡¯ve agonised over this because I could not cut the curves and laminate before machining the joints because I needed parallel edges. Adding the solid wood lamination to the edge after the machining is going to be time consuming and I¡¯m not sure how best to do it. I could apply over long sections to each curved edge (between shelves) and then flush them, but how? ?
? If I used the flush cut handsaw, I could use overlength Zebrano pieces (but maintaining continuous grain) and then not stress the clamping process. I guess after that many cuts (224 to be precise) I¡¯ll be pretty good with the flush cut saw? Thanks for your brainstorming thoughts! ? ? ? Warm regards, Lucky ? From:
[email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of David Luckensmeyer via groups.io <dhluckens@...> Hi David B and Michael: ? Funny you should mention the flatbed CNC. Although not the same, I have been pondering how much use I¡¯d get out of a Shaper Origin. That tool would fit nicely somewhere in my shop! ? Thanks David for your vote on the vertical method. I think the clean corners are swaying me strongly for that option. I¡¯ve wondered if I make a very accurate registration jig and use a small pattern bit (I can get an 8mm dia. bit from across town) to establish the majority of the 20mm flat across the joint, then there would be very little chisel work at all: ? ¡¤???????? corners squared by the saw blade ¡¤???????? majority of waste drilled out ¡¤???????? shoulder established by the pattern bit ¡¤???????? minor chisel work to finish. ? Your jig making has always been a source of inspiration for me. Your lock mitre jig is especially egregious! I absolutely love it. Of course, now I know I should have made a much larger vertical jig that does not depend on the crosscut fence for registration. Something like what you¡¯ve done would have been much better. Cheers. ? Warm regards, Lucky ? From:
[email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of David P. Best via groups.io <dbestworkshop@...> I actually like your original concept of using the rip as a bump-stop, a 400mm blade cutting both edges, and a jig on the crosscut fence to hold the material vertically. ?Here¡¯s a couple more jig I¡¯ve made to stimulate your thinking. ?I could quibble over the actual jig configuration (hence these photos of jigs I¡¯ve made to hold vertical materials on the slider as food for thought). ? This is for cutting lock miter joints:? ?
? ? This one is for finger joints - which is a shallower type of thing you are doing: ? ? ? ? David Best ?
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David Luckensmeyer