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Re: Sawstop slider?

 

Derek and Speedrrracer, thanks for sharing your experiences comparing SS style sliders with Hammer sliders, I appreciate the time you guys put into it. I think Sawstop makes the best cabinet saw on the market, but in the end, it¡¯s still a cabinet saw. And cabinet saws place the operator in line with the blade and require the operator to push the wood along?the rip fence past the blade. SS blade brake protects you from serious injury if you touch the blade, and the riving knife reduces the chance of having wood shot back at you.
Preaching to the quire here I know, but sliders have a completely different approach to safety, or they can anyway. I¡¯m still too frequently using the rip fence as a traditional rip fence instead of a bump stop, but there¡¯s no good reason for it, unless the piece is longer than the slider. Slide the table back, secure your workpiece (pneumatic clamps, F&F, hold downs, whatever), walk the slider past the blade with your hands nowhere near the danger zone, unclamp, repeat. You¡¯re not in the line of fire, and the rip fence shouldn¡¯t be trapping any cutoffs between the fence and blade anyway. So really, the safest saw would be one with a sliding table long enough for your longest typical rip, along with a good parallel rip fence option (by which I mean?Brian Lamb¡¯s) and F&F.?
Emphasis on safety in this discussion is because of my kids being in the shop. But they¡¯ll not be using a table saw without close supervision in any case. So I¡¯m definitely thinking a Hammer slider, but maybe not the shortest stroke option.?
Thanks again, all.?
-Shawn

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On Saturday, February 12, 2022, 4:45 PM, Derek Cohen <derekcohen@...> wrote:

Shawn, for 20 years I had a 3hp contractor saw with a sliding crosscut saw - pretty much the same setup as the SawStop+crosscut slider you are considering. The CC slider was a very decent, solid cast iron and steel construction which kept its settings. It was a much better machine than the standard tablesaw.?

I decided to upgrade 5 years ago. The choice was either another, but better version of the above, which would be the SawStop+CC slider, or a Hammer K3 Winner. I am a serious hobbiest building solid wood furniture, no sheet goods, and frequently enter furniture design and build competitions. At this stage I had not used a true slider, recognising that the machine fixture I had was designed for crosscutting, and not ripping. This is a relevant difference.?

I was fortunate to be able to experience both machines side-by-side and understand the limitation of the SS, along with the promise of the K3. The K3 I was looking at was a short wagon 1250mm. Both machines are very solidly built and will last an amateur forever. Hell, I see many pro shops having far lesser quality machines than mine, and certainly lesser quality than SS. The K3 has 4 hp to the SS 3 hp, and a 12¡± blade vs the 10¡± of the SS. Having used a 12¡± for so many years, moving to a 10¡± was a step backward. Interestingly, ignoring the travel needed for the wagon, the K3 has a much smaller footprint than the SS. And the extra space needed for wagon travel is actually an illusion since one needs this on a standard tablesaw anyway. Lastly, the ¡°slider¡± on the SS is not a wagon as you know it, but designed for crosscut use. The side lies about 6-9¡± away from the blade, unlike a true slider, and I think that you would find this disconcerting.

In the end it was the K3 that came out quite far on top, not in quality of build (this was much of a muchness), but it features and range. I have had zero regret, and am still finding more ways to do things on this delightful machine. ?

This photo was taken shortly after getting the K3 ¡­





Regards from Perth

Derek

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