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I have a 1995 EV and my propane/grey water/fresh water/batt indicator lights just stopped
working...Has anyone an easy fix???Thanks...Ray

Ray -

Have you checked V on the house battery? It's
easy to forget to check it, until needed. I just
added distilled water to rear bat in my '03 EVC.

You can plug a lamp or charger into the 12V
socket on indicator lamp panel. Check rear
breaker panel, & reset breakers.

One way to get ~ 12V to rear area: Turn ignition
switch ON [+ pull up hand brake up, to turn off
headlights]. This energizes Combiner relay on
firewall near front battery. If front battery &
wiring, circuit breakers, etc. are OK, & house
battery dead, the indicator lights may come on.

If lamps are still out, turn key OFF, & remove
[6?] screws from the indicator lamp panel over
fridge. This is safer if you first remove [-]
terminal from house battery. See if the small
green PC board connector is seated. Even if it
looks good, reseat it. Prop up board to prevent
shorts, & reconnect rear battery.

If the house battery is low, even though you have
been running van ~ once a week, the automatic
circuit breaker between front battery & large
solenoid-style high-current relay may be bad -
or have an un-crimped lug, like mine had. [Thanks,
Winnebago, for poor quality check.] While you
have access to front battery, you can measure
voltage of front & rear batteries at the two
large terminals on the combiner relay - key OFF.
Check both again, with key ON, & you should see
the same voltage, within about 0.1 V. [The V drop
through relay contacts could be slightly more,
if rear [dead] battery is drawing 20-30 Amps
through them.

I don't have a wiring diagram, but I've been
through most of the house wiring in my EVC. Let
me know where you do & don't find 12 V, & I'll
offer further suggestions.

Jack_son
'03 EVC
================================================
--In ev_update@..., "recray" <recray@...> wrote:

I have a 1995 EV and my propane/grey water/fresh water/batt

indicator lights just stopped

working...Has anyone an easy fix???Thanks...Ray

If you do have 12v on the house battery, and want to check to see if it
is hitting the indicator board, make sure you unhook the house battery
before you try to remove the galley panel.

I left house power connected, and as I removed the panel, the board
touched the frame and fried a current track on the board. I was lucky
enough to be able to splice a replacement current track in to avoid
replacing the board.

After such a boneheaded move, I ground the frame off in the area behind
the panel to add some clearance.....Winnebago kind of crammed the whole
thing in on my van.

Pete

OK Jack_Son...Tried everything: voltages, continuity, cleaned connections, changed batts,
voltage to circuit board...The water pump works, but the light quit after I messed around
with the cb pannel...Bummer...Maybe a new cb pannel???Where do you get your camper
parts...Thanks for the assist...Ray

-These folks should have the circuit board:



-- In ev_update@..., "recray" <recray@...> wrote:

OK Jack_Son...Tried everything: voltages, continuity, cleaned

connections, changed batts,

voltage to circuit board...The water pump works, but the light quit

after I messed around

with the cb pannel...Bummer...Maybe a new cb pannel???Where do you

get your camper

parts...Thanks for the assist...Ray

--- In ev_update@..., "jack_son_73" <jackr1@> wrote:

Ray -

Have you checked V on the house battery? It's
easy to forget to check it, until needed. I just
added distilled water to rear bat in my '03 EVC.

You can plug a lamp or charger into the 12V
socket on indicator lamp panel. Check rear
breaker panel, & reset breakers.

One way to get ~ 12V to rear area: Turn ignition
switch ON [+ pull up hand brake up, to turn off
headlights]. This energizes Combiner relay on
firewall near front battery. If front battery &
wiring, circuit breakers, etc. are OK, & house
battery dead, the indicator lights may come on.

If lamps are still out, turn key OFF, & remove
[6?] screws from the indicator lamp panel over
fridge. This is safer if you first remove [-]
terminal from house battery. See if the small
green PC board connector is seated. Even if it
looks good, reseat it. Prop up board to prevent
shorts, & reconnect rear battery.

If the house battery is low, even though you have
been running van ~ once a week, the automatic
circuit breaker between front battery & large
solenoid-style high-current relay may be bad -
or have an un-crimped lug, like mine had. [Thanks,
Winnebago, for poor quality check.] While you
have access to front battery, you can measure
voltage of front & rear batteries at the two
large terminals on the combiner relay - key OFF.
Check both again, with key ON, & you should see
the same voltage, within about 0.1 V. [The V drop
through relay contacts could be slightly more,
if rear [dead] battery is drawing 20-30 Amps
through them.

I don't have a wiring diagram, but I've been
through most of the house wiring in my EVC. Let
me know where you do & don't find 12 V, & I'll
offer further suggestions.

Jack_son
'03 EVC
================================================
--In ev_update@..., "recray" <recray@> wrote:

I have a 1995 EV and my propane/grey water/fresh water/batt

indicator lights just stopped

working...Has anyone an easy fix???Thanks...Ray

Ray -

When you said "the light quit", do you mean the
LEDs on the PC board on panel over 'fridge?

If you opened up the rear electrical panel, by
left tail lamps, some wires there are stiff &
short. Something may have broken, or pulled loose.
Did you try resetting breakers after you saw lamp/s
go out?

What DC V do you read at the accessory socket on
the LED panel? If it is low, what do you read at
the socket/s over rear battery?

Did you mean the tube ligkt in pantry area? Does
it work?

I just re-read my earlier message, & need to add
a note. When I said "-plug a lamp or charger into
the 12V socket" I was NOT suggesting a car bat
charger. I carry cell phone & other tiny chargers
around, which make a quick way to look for 12V.

I'm going to add small digital volt-meter &
ammeter to the LED panel, to see what's going on.
The ammeter external shunt will be located at the
rear battery, & read + or - Amps, for Charge or
discharge.

Winnie sugests removing rear bat [-] lead before
connecting external chargers to house bat. Some of
the service station 150A chargers scare me, too,
but I will 'carefully' hook my 3 or 4 stage 'smart'
chargers directly to front or rear bat. Before I'd
let a gas station use a BIG charger on my bats, I'd
run. Some modern BIG chargers CAN monitor V, A, time,
& bat temp, but the gas jockeys often set them for
max smoke. "Sell a charge today; sell a new battery
tomorrow,"

Jack_son
'03 EVC
==================================================
--In ev_update@..., "recray" <recray@...> wrote:

OK Jack_Son...Tried everything: voltages, continuity, cleaned

connections, changed batts,

voltage to circuit board...The water pump works, but the light quit

after I messed around

with the cb pannel...Bummer...Maybe a new cb pannel???Where do you

get your camper

parts...Thanks for the assist...Ray

--- In ev_update@..., "jack_son_73" <jackr1@> wrote:

Ray -

Have you checked V on the house battery? It's
easy to forget to check it, until needed. I just
added distilled water to rear bat in my '03 EVC.

You can plug a lamp or charger into the 12V
socket on indicator lamp panel. Check rear
breaker panel, & reset breakers.

One way to get ~ 12V to rear area: Turn ignition
switch ON [+ pull up hand brake up, to turn off
headlights]. This energizes Combiner relay on
firewall near front battery. If front battery &
wiring, circuit breakers, etc. are OK, & house
battery dead, the indicator lights may come on.

If lamps are still out, turn key OFF, & remove
[6?] screws from the indicator lamp panel over
fridge. This is safer if you first remove [-]
terminal from house battery. See if the small
green PC board connector is seated. Even if it
looks good, reseat it. Prop up board to prevent
shorts, & reconnect rear battery.

If the house battery is low, even though you have
been running van ~ once a week, the automatic
circuit breaker between front battery & large
solenoid-style high-current relay may be bad -
or have an un-crimped lug, like mine had. [Thanks,
Winnebago, for poor quality check.] While you
have access to front battery, you can measure
voltage of front & rear batteries at the two
large terminals on the combiner relay - key OFF.
Check both again, with key ON, & you should see
the same voltage, within about 0.1 V. [The V drop
through relay contacts could be slightly more,
if rear [dead] battery is drawing 20-30 Amps
through them.

I don't have a wiring diagram, but I've been
through most of the house wiring in my EVC. Let
me know where you do & don't find 12 V, & I'll
offer further suggestions.

Jack_son
'03 EVC
================================================
--In ev_update@..., "recray" <recray@> wrote:

I have a 1995 EV and my propane/grey water/fresh water/batt

indicator lights just stopped

working...Has anyone an easy fix???Thanks...Ray

Ray -

I now have the '03 EVC LED PC board in my hands.
4 wires go from a 10-pin plug at one end of PC
board, & connect to a larger 6-pin nylon plug. The
nylon plug & a 3-wire plug on the opposite end of
board each have 1 black wire with spade connectors.

Near the smaller plug is "L5099 Rev L". A printed
label on back of board has "L5099-122 ER". It also
says "Ventline Adjustaboard". There must be slight
variations over the years.

Next to 10-pin plug is an 8V regulator [7808], This
seems to run everything on the board. The regulator
needs at least 10.5 V input for proper operation, so
the rear bat V is important. The 7808 has automatic
overload protection [even for a short-circuit]. With
a sharp [mostly insulated] meter probe, check for
+12V on Input to the 7808. This is the pin next to
edge of board.

You can make a few checks Without removing PC
board from the panel. Be sure panel is secure, so
nothing is shorted. Reconnect rear battery. Looking
at the rear of panel & PC board, with the 2 mounting
screws at the top, the upper left [near corner] of
PC board has 3 solder connections in a vertical row.
The upper one is the regulator +12V input. The 2nd
is ground. The 3rd pin is the regulated 8V output,
& should read about 7.9 to 8.1V. These tests will
be safer if your meter [-] lead is clipped to an
off-board ground lug.

The black decorative mounting hardware is metal, &
has insulating spacers on screw head side, & fiber
washers under the nuts. If these were off earlier,
are the fiber washers now between nuts & board?

I'm not trying to keep Winnie from selling boards,
but if you have a bad $1 regulator or capacitor, it
could be an easy repair.

Jack_son

==================================================
--In ev_update@..., "recray" <recray@...> wrote:

OK Jack_Son...Tried everything: voltages, continuity, cleaned

connections, changed batts,

voltage to circuit board...The water pump works, but the light quit

after I messed around

with the cb pannel...Bummer...Maybe a new cb pannel???Where do you

get your camper

parts...Thanks for the assist...Ray