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Indicator Lights
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jack_son_73
Ray -
Have you checked V on the house battery? It's easy to forget to check it, until needed. I just added distilled water to rear bat in my '03 EVC. You can plug a lamp or charger into the 12V socket on indicator lamp panel. Check rear breaker panel, & reset breakers. One way to get ~ 12V to rear area: Turn ignition switch ON [+ pull up hand brake up, to turn off headlights]. This energizes Combiner relay on firewall near front battery. If front battery & wiring, circuit breakers, etc. are OK, & house battery dead, the indicator lights may come on. If lamps are still out, turn key OFF, & remove [6?] screws from the indicator lamp panel over fridge. This is safer if you first remove [-] terminal from house battery. See if the small green PC board connector is seated. Even if it looks good, reseat it. Prop up board to prevent shorts, & reconnect rear battery. If the house battery is low, even though you have been running van ~ once a week, the automatic circuit breaker between front battery & large solenoid-style high-current relay may be bad - or have an un-crimped lug, like mine had. [Thanks, Winnebago, for poor quality check.] While you have access to front battery, you can measure voltage of front & rear batteries at the two large terminals on the combiner relay - key OFF. Check both again, with key ON, & you should see the same voltage, within about 0.1 V. [The V drop through relay contacts could be slightly more, if rear [dead] battery is drawing 20-30 Amps through them. I don't have a wiring diagram, but I've been through most of the house wiring in my EVC. Let me know where you do & don't find 12 V, & I'll offer further suggestions. Jack_son '03 EVC ================================================ --In ev_update@..., "recray" <recray@...> wrote: indicator lights just stopped working...Has anyone an easy fix???Thanks...Ray |
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If you do have 12v on the house battery, and want to check to see if it
is hitting the indicator board, make sure you unhook the house battery before you try to remove the galley panel. I left house power connected, and as I removed the panel, the board touched the frame and fried a current track on the board. I was lucky enough to be able to splice a replacement current track in to avoid replacing the board. After such a boneheaded move, I ground the frame off in the area behind the panel to add some clearance.....Winnebago kind of crammed the whole thing in on my van. Pete |
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recray
OK Jack_Son...Tried everything: voltages, continuity, cleaned connections, changed batts,
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voltage to circuit board...The water pump works, but the light quit after I messed around with the cb pannel...Bummer...Maybe a new cb pannel???Where do you get your camper parts...Thanks for the assist...Ray --- In ev_update@..., "jack_son_73" <jackr1@...> wrote:
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-These folks should have the circuit board:
-- In ev_update@..., "recray" <recray@...> wrote: connections, changed batts, voltage to circuit board...The water pump works, but the light quitafter I messed around with the cb pannel...Bummer...Maybe a new cb pannel???Where do youget your camper parts...Thanks for the assist...Ray |
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jack_son_73
Ray -
When you said "the light quit", do you mean the LEDs on the PC board on panel over 'fridge? If you opened up the rear electrical panel, by left tail lamps, some wires there are stiff & short. Something may have broken, or pulled loose. Did you try resetting breakers after you saw lamp/s go out? What DC V do you read at the accessory socket on the LED panel? If it is low, what do you read at the socket/s over rear battery? Did you mean the tube ligkt in pantry area? Does it work? I just re-read my earlier message, & need to add a note. When I said "-plug a lamp or charger into the 12V socket" I was NOT suggesting a car bat charger. I carry cell phone & other tiny chargers around, which make a quick way to look for 12V. I'm going to add small digital volt-meter & ammeter to the LED panel, to see what's going on. The ammeter external shunt will be located at the rear battery, & read + or - Amps, for Charge or discharge. Winnie sugests removing rear bat [-] lead before connecting external chargers to house bat. Some of the service station 150A chargers scare me, too, but I will 'carefully' hook my 3 or 4 stage 'smart' chargers directly to front or rear bat. Before I'd let a gas station use a BIG charger on my bats, I'd run. Some modern BIG chargers CAN monitor V, A, time, & bat temp, but the gas jockeys often set them for max smoke. "Sell a charge today; sell a new battery tomorrow," Jack_son '03 EVC ================================================== --In ev_update@..., "recray" <recray@...> wrote: connections, changed batts, voltage to circuit board...The water pump works, but the light quitafter I messed around with the cb pannel...Bummer...Maybe a new cb pannel???Where do youget your camper parts...Thanks for the assist...Ray |
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jack_son_73
Ray -
I now have the '03 EVC LED PC board in my hands. 4 wires go from a 10-pin plug at one end of PC board, & connect to a larger 6-pin nylon plug. The nylon plug & a 3-wire plug on the opposite end of board each have 1 black wire with spade connectors. Near the smaller plug is "L5099 Rev L". A printed label on back of board has "L5099-122 ER". It also says "Ventline Adjustaboard". There must be slight variations over the years. Next to 10-pin plug is an 8V regulator [7808], This seems to run everything on the board. The regulator needs at least 10.5 V input for proper operation, so the rear bat V is important. The 7808 has automatic overload protection [even for a short-circuit]. With a sharp [mostly insulated] meter probe, check for +12V on Input to the 7808. This is the pin next to edge of board. You can make a few checks Without removing PC board from the panel. Be sure panel is secure, so nothing is shorted. Reconnect rear battery. Looking at the rear of panel & PC board, with the 2 mounting screws at the top, the upper left [near corner] of PC board has 3 solder connections in a vertical row. The upper one is the regulator +12V input. The 2nd is ground. The 3rd pin is the regulated 8V output, & should read about 7.9 to 8.1V. These tests will be safer if your meter [-] lead is clipped to an off-board ground lug. The black decorative mounting hardware is metal, & has insulating spacers on screw head side, & fiber washers under the nuts. If these were off earlier, are the fiber washers now between nuts & board? I'm not trying to keep Winnie from selling boards, but if you have a bad $1 regulator or capacitor, it could be an easy repair. Jack_son ================================================== --In ev_update@..., "recray" <recray@...> wrote: connections, changed batts, voltage to circuit board...The water pump works, but the light quitafter I messed around with the cb pannel...Bummer...Maybe a new cb pannel???Where do youget your camper parts...Thanks for the assist...Ray |
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