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I am looking for advice on where to advertise a vehicle online. I have
brand new 1999 Pontiac Firefly (identical to Chevrolet Metro or Suzuki
Swift). This hatchback was won in a raffle. The vehicle has never been
titled and has about 130 miles with factory warranty to 60,000 km and
roadside assistance. I wanted to trade it on a Firefly or Metro vehicle
with more different options. Local GM dealers will give you $7500 against
a vehicle that left their lot for $12,000.00. The car is a 5sp, 1.0 L
engine, green with gray interior. The 63 mpg Firefly will complement the
gas mileage of the Eurovan.

In checking out US prices I found the same vehicle which sells in Canada
for $11,500 Canadian is sold in the US for $10,500 US. Guess where the
vehicle is made? Ingersoll, Ontario, Canada. The US dollar is worth about
$1.50 Canadian. If I got $7,000 US for my vehicle I would be happy and
some American would get a great deal.

The big question is what internet sites to advertise on that cover the
northwestern US.
Any suggestions on sites. I have never dealt with any of the online
auctions except "onsale.com".

Is it worth even considering trying to sell this car internationally? Any
private notes you wish to forward would be appreciated. I am located in
Edmonton, Alberta.

Steve,

We visited a great buffet place that was filled with the greatest chocolate
cake I ever had in my life. I only recall it was a large colonial place
but it advertised a great deal so it was easy to find. We didn't do the
long tour of the village...just walked thru the park and got a handle on
what was there. Loved the Big Bad Wolf at Busch Gardens; but roller
coasters are our thing.

Gary and Belled from Maine

10/23/99 4:50 PM Steve Kammerer skammerer@... wrote:

My wife and I are going to go to Colonia Wiliamsburg, VA next weekend.
Any advice as to good campgrounds and or restaurants?

Steve,

My Wife and I liked the Whaling Company (for seafood and Steaks) its east
of Colonial Williamsburg off of rt 60 also if you like bar-b-que try
Pierce's it's out of town on the west near interstate 64 (can be seen
from I64) There are many other restaurants in and arround this area.
Sorry I can't help you with Campgrounds.

Greg

Greg Maxwell


'71 Squareback [ex]
'84 Vanagon GL
'92 Golf

My wife and I are going to go to Colonia Wiliamsburg, VA next weekend.
Any advice as to good campgrounds and or restaurants?
TIA
stevek
97 EVC
Columbia MD

In a message dated 10/22/99 4:52:26 AM, rgolen@... writes:

<<Perhaps there is one difference between US and European EVs....I've
been reading a lot about the Reformulated Gasoline (RFG) that we have
here in the states and how it affects rubber components of the fuel
system. Perhaps this is part of the problem. I know that the European
countries do not have this type of gasoline.>>

Good point. My fuel lines began to leak when we went camping last month and
it dropped to around freezing. (I let VW know via phone and e-mail and
reported the problem to the NHTSA.) I put some of that $18 per can BG fuel
stuff in the van and the problem has not come back. It is expensive, but is
supposed to fix "dried out" hoses and recondition the entire fuel system etc.
Works for now. I'll get the problem fixed when a recall is ordered.
Meanwhile I have a fire extinguisher strapped to the driver's seat just in
case.

Todd Vess
Windsor, Colo.

Joel,
In my opinion, more stability and less sway. Plus, the Bilsteins are pretty
much good for the life of the vehicle.
John

jmf@... wrote:

I'd been watching the discussion on these shocks with only mild
interest until I saw that some folks have have already installed them
on 97 and 99 EVCs. While I'm waiting for my set of Agilis 51s to come
in to replace those nearly worthless Goodyear Cargo Vectors (not just
worn, but "square" at less than 25k mi. -- hell, I got at least that
many miles from every set of V-rated tires I ever put on my '90
Corrado, even when I drove to maximize the g-forces experienced, but I
digress), I thought I might as well ask: How much difference have the
Bilsteins really made on these newer EVCs, and in what ways? Smoother?
Better handling? Better tire wear? What else?

After putting new Michelins on both vehicles this fall I don't
particularly relish the thought of spending even more on some new
suspension parts for the EVC, but if I get enough endorsements from the
group I will consider it more seriously.

Joel Funk
97 EVC
97 Jetta GLS (Hoping Michelin X-Ones are the last tires I ever buy for
this car)

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John Waterman
Parker,CO

Joel,

Thanks for the response.

BTW, in case anyone else tries Joel's website, here is the one you need
to use:

The previous message left off the ".com"

To make a comparison:
Slantfin has 2 models to choose from:
KZ-25 (110V) size = 10.5" x 19" x 9.5"; flows 140 CFM; cost ?? +
inverter
KZ-12 (110V) size = 10.5" x 11.25 x 9.25"; flows 70 CFM; cost ?? +
inverter

Swampy has several models to choose from, here are 2 I'm considering:
TL-20 ( 12V) size = 8" x 13" x 22"; flows ~800 CFM; cost $357
KT-50 (110V) size = 20" x 15" x 15"; flows 1300 CFM; cost $187 +
inverter

Couple of other points to consider:
1. Inverter is only required if you want to run off of 12V. If you
have access to camp site electrical 110V power you don't need the
inverter.
2. TL-20 has a cooler in the bottom so you can place ~7lb bag of ice
to improve efficiency
3. The EV/EVC has about 600-700 Cubic Feet of space to cool
4. The cost of a true small AC is $300-400 (new) + installation costs
+ you need 110V
5. The cost of a true small AC is $100-200 (used) + installation costs
+ you need 110V
6. The costs of a RV AC is $500-600 + installation costs + you need
110V + the van is ~8" taller

Thanks to all those that provide comments. ... the search continues.

Jerry


jm-@... wrote:
original article:

sana-@... wrote:
original article:

All,

As I continue to search for the right solution, I came accross this

web

site:


They have a number of evapaorator type coolers that run off of 12v.
They are compact and light (I think they 3 units that could fit

between

the front seats and vent back towards the rear @ ~800 CFM). They

are

also very simple in design vs a real AC unit. I think this type of
cooler would work for folks in dry climates, humity less than 50% or
so. You might also be able to get away with this type of cooler in
higher humidity areas by using just after running the AC to cool

down

the van and take some of the hymidity out of the air.

I'm tempted by the possibilities of this option because you could

run

it off the aux battery when camping without electrical hook-up. Its
cooling capacity would be limited in higher humidity areas but I
figured I only really needed it at night, so it may work okay for

this

"requirement".

If anyone has experience with this type of cooler, can you let me

know

the pluses and minuses of going this route.

Thanks
Jerry

I looked into the Swampy when I was considering cooling options. My
recollection is that they were relatively pricey. As I mentioned in
another post, I opted for a power inverter and a Kool Zone evaporative
cooler made by Slant/Fin (www.slantfin/consumer/cool.html). Combined,
the cost was only about $120, and the power inverter is useful for

many

other things (laptop computer, camcorder battery charger, fan, etc.)
However, the Kool Zone moves a smaller quantity of air than the

Swampy.

The limitation of an evaporative cooler is just what you said -- they
work best at relative humidity of 50% or less. They can cool the air
they move up to a maximum of 12 degrees F, but the cooling effect
diminishes considerably as humidity increases. With the Kool Zone
being portable, it is relatively easy to direct the flow of cooled air
-- and you can use it other places with the inverter or 110v. A
downside to the Kool Zone is that it would be best to travel with the
reservoir empty --it is relatively shallow and water will slosh out on
hills or bumps.

As far as power consumption goes, the fan in the Kool Zone has a very
low draw, so it could run for a day or more before running down the
aux. battery.

Joel Funk
97 EVC

To the person who asked for them here are the part numbers for the rear fog
light assy that fits in the "cutout" in the rear bumper. My friend picked it
up in Germany.
it is made up of 3 pieces:
281-945-729 housing and lens
1ho-953-123 bulb holder
046-027 bulb
Spencer

Joel,

Since I had the Bilsteins installed along with a set of light alloy
wheels here are my impressions:

1- The ride is quiter
2- Less body roll & better cornering
3- I feel I have more control of the Van
4- Definitely better looks
5- Less front end dive when braking hard

I hope that helps.

-Wael


jm-@... wrote:
original article:

I'd been watching the discussion on these shocks with only mild
interest until I saw that some folks have have already installed them
on 97 and 99 EVCs. While I'm waiting for my set of Agilis 51s to come
in to replace those nearly worthless Goodyear Cargo Vectors (not just
worn, but "square" at less than 25k mi. -- hell, I got at least that
many miles from every set of V-rated tires I ever put on my '90
Corrado, even when I drove to maximize the g-forces experienced, but I
digress), I thought I might as well ask: How much difference have the
Bilsteins really made on these newer EVCs, and in what ways?

Smoother?

Better handling? Better tire wear? What else?

After putting new Michelins on both vehicles this fall I don't
particularly relish the thought of spending even more on some new
suspension parts for the EVC, but if I get enough endorsements from

the

group I will consider it more seriously.

Joel Funk
97 EVC
97 Jetta GLS (Hoping Michelin X-Ones are the last tires I ever buy for
this car)

sana-@... wrote:
original article:

All,

As I continue to search for the right solution, I came accross this

web

site:


They have a number of evapaorator type coolers that run off of 12v.
They are compact and light (I think they 3 units that could fit

between

the front seats and vent back towards the rear @ ~800 CFM). They are
also very simple in design vs a real AC unit. I think this type of
cooler would work for folks in dry climates, humity less than 50% or
so. You might also be able to get away with this type of cooler in
higher humidity areas by using just after running the AC to cool down
the van and take some of the hymidity out of the air.

I'm tempted by the possibilities of this option because you could run
it off the aux battery when camping without electrical hook-up. Its
cooling capacity would be limited in higher humidity areas but I
figured I only really needed it at night, so it may work okay for this
"requirement".

If anyone has experience with this type of cooler, can you let me know
the pluses and minuses of going this route.

Thanks
Jerry

I looked into the Swampy when I was considering cooling options. My
recollection is that they were relatively pricey. As I mentioned in
another post, I opted for a power inverter and a Kool Zone evaporative
cooler made by Slant/Fin (www.slantfin/consumer/cool.html). Combined,
the cost was only about $120, and the power inverter is useful for many
other things (laptop computer, camcorder battery charger, fan, etc.)
However, the Kool Zone moves a smaller quantity of air than the Swampy.
The limitation of an evaporative cooler is just what you said -- they
work best at relative humidity of 50% or less. They can cool the air
they move up to a maximum of 12 degrees F, but the cooling effect
diminishes considerably as humidity increases. With the Kool Zone
being portable, it is relatively easy to direct the flow of cooled air
-- and you can use it other places with the inverter or 110v. A
downside to the Kool Zone is that it would be best to travel with the
reservoir empty --it is relatively shallow and water will slosh out on
hills or bumps.

As far as power consumption goes, the fan in the Kool Zone has a very
low draw, so it could run for a day or more before running down the
aux. battery.

Joel Funk
97 EVC

All,

As I continue to search for the right solution, I came accross this web
site:


They have a number of evapaorator type coolers that run off of 12v.
They are compact and light (I think they 3 units that could fit between
the front seats and vent back towards the rear @ ~800 CFM). They are
also very simple in design vs a real AC unit. I think this type of
cooler would work for folks in dry climates, humity less than 50% or
so. You might also be able to get away with this type of cooler in
higher humidity areas by using just after running the AC to cool down
the van and take some of the hymidity out of the air.

I'm tempted by the possibilities of this option because you could run
it off the aux battery when camping without electrical hook-up. Its
cooling capacity would be limited in higher humidity areas but I
figured I only really needed it at night, so it may work okay for this
"requirement".

If anyone has experience with this type of cooler, can you let me know
the pluses and minuses of going this route.

Thanks
Jerry

--- Chris Noeske <CHRISN@...> wrote:

I'm in the process of adding a Gasoline fired furnace to my 92 EV
Westfalia. And would like to know the following about the Winnebago camper.
1) Does Winnebago install a carbon monoxide detector?

Yes

2) Is it wired to the coach battery?

No. 9V battery Powered

3) Where is it mounted?

On the poptop just behind the passengers seat

4) What is the name of the manufacture?

COSTAR- Model 9L-i

5) Where can I buy it ?

Don't know - email address provided is mktsls@... 800-432-5599

6) How much does it cost?

don't know

7) Does it go off allot?

Only once in the 3 months I've owned - while refilling tank at gas pump.

8) Does it never go off, and you wonder if it works at all?

Not anymore. The manual suggests putting a butane cig lighter next to it and letting the gas out
for a few seconds without lighting it to test.

Regards,
Michael Caicedo
Winter Park, FL
'97 EVC (formerly VWWHALE)

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at

I replaced 2 of my goodyear G60 rags because they were wearing square
on the back. I used my new spare and my dads new spare on the front.
Tossed the two worst ones and road the better ones on the back. This
was good for the first 1000 miles, then those started Woo WOO woo-ing
agian. I then replaced all of the shocks all of the ball joints (they
were clunking)and had the front (only) aligned. I added two of the
four Contis I bought(Tire rack through Tires Plus $69each 1780 lbs
rated) to the front and have been running the newer G60's on the back
for the last 5K. The van is much more quite and no Wo WO. The rear is
wearing great so far. I asked for the parts back and found the back
shock had a bad spot in it and the Mech said the alignment was off bad
in the front (wheel was straight and it tracked straight before and
after.

I know the back can be aligned but was willing to wear off the G60's in
the back since they are getting over 6 years old to see if it was
really needed.
VW quoted me up to $300 due to putz work involved. It seems the
aliignment is fine.
I will add the other 2 contis be for the snow flys.

I would recommend to all to change the shocks when upgrading the tires.


I went with Midas all around but would do the shocks myself next time.
Been told the Boge's do not last very long and that is what the dealer
pushes with their Lifetime Warr. Go with the Bisteins from what I am
reading now.

One other problem was contributing to the back tire wear also. The back
driver side brake cyl was seized big time and I replaced that.

Hope this helps anyone with their decisions on tires and shocks. Not
cheap but worth it. Would not want the family in any other van.

Hope that T5 picture does not replace the EV bus.

Yegs, 93 EV MVWK 50,000 miles

for sale 86 Vanagon syncro W/ bed - 80K
84 Jetta GLI - 134K

Eckhard,

I think a lot depends on who does the work.

If you are going to do a swap with some of your budies, then you need
to make sure you have a bullet proof solution and access to all the
parts you'll need before you start.

If you're having a VW dealer do the work (highest cost), then they
assume the risk of making the swap. You should be sure to have a
working fix after the swap.

If a major transmission shop is doing the work, you'll get at least
someone who will stand behind the work. They should have access to the
right info to make sure they get it right.

IF you having Joe's transmission shop, be careful. You might not get
what you want, but you will end up with a stiff bill.

Good luck
Jerry

erol-@... (eckhard rolz) wrote:
original article:

The AT uses a:
Transmission Control Module (located in the right footwell on A

pillar)

and > Engine Control Module (depending on engine equipment, location

varies.

Jerry

Thanks you for the info.This really helps em decide what transmission

I

need. There is one last question remaining. Does anyone know know

if I can

replace an CHY with an CEU? According to the book (thanks again) the

gear

ratios are identical. I am just not certain if the electronics are
compatible. The CEU was installed from 12/91 to 8/92, the CHY only

from

9/92 to 12/92. There are many used CEUs available but no CHYs. I

just don't

want to pay almost $5000 for a transmission in a van that is worth

maybe

$10000 max. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Eckhard

I'd been watching the discussion on these shocks with only mild
interest until I saw that some folks have have already installed them
on 97 and 99 EVCs. While I'm waiting for my set of Agilis 51s to come
in to replace those nearly worthless Goodyear Cargo Vectors (not just
worn, but "square" at less than 25k mi. -- hell, I got at least that
many miles from every set of V-rated tires I ever put on my '90
Corrado, even when I drove to maximize the g-forces experienced, but I
digress), I thought I might as well ask: How much difference have the
Bilsteins really made on these newer EVCs, and in what ways? Smoother?
Better handling? Better tire wear? What else?

After putting new Michelins on both vehicles this fall I don't
particularly relish the thought of spending even more on some new
suspension parts for the EVC, but if I get enough endorsements from the
group I will consider it more seriously.

Joel Funk
97 EVC
97 Jetta GLS (Hoping Michelin X-Ones are the last tires I ever buy for
this car)

Macon,
I vaguely recall a post about this a few months ago. A spacer had been
left off in the installation or something like that which allowed the
shocks to move up an down. Sorry I can't be more specific. Might try
and grab one of them and move it up and down to see if you get that
noise.
John

Earthlaw@... wrote:

--
mailto:jwwaterman@...

John Waterman
Parker,CO

Jerry,
I don't have the numbers anymore, but just ask for them to fit a VW t-4
which includes all Eurovans from 1993. All use the same shocks.
Checker auto was able to look them up for me.
John

sanae@... wrote:

--
mailto:jwwaterman@...

John Waterman
Parker,CO

I'm in the process of adding a Gasoline fired furnace to my 92 EV
Westfalia.? And would like to know the following about the Winnebago camper.
1) Does Winnebago install a carbon monoxide detector?
2) Is it wired to the coach battery?
3) Where is it mounted?
4) What is the name of the manufacture?
5) Where can I buy it ?
6) How much does it cost?
7) Does it go off allot?
8) Does it never go off, and you wonder if it works at all?
?
Chris Noeske [mailto: chrisn@...]
Project Engineer
Electroimpact, Inc.
4606 107th St SW,? Mukilteo, WA? 98275-4706

"vance, beaumont w." <beaumont.vanc-@...> wrote:
original article:

I am very curious to see if they pay the loss. I would not think that

it

would meet the definition of "accident". Let me know what happens.

I already have a check from the insurance company for the loss minus my
deductable. I think that the insurance company has not determined it
was not my fault and will subrogate the claim against VW, and give me
my deductable back.

Unfortunately, the insurance company won't address the loss of the use
of the van for almost two months, potential latent damage to the
underhood components due to fire, etc. That I'll be addressing with VW.


Ric

Another source in the East is "Don's Sport Vehicle Sales" in Detroit.
Same price ($90) and good service.
The web address www.bugsandbuggies.com will lead you to an on-line
catalogue and on-line ordering.
I installed mine in Aug and have noticed a difference for the better on
my last two trips.

Gerry Edge