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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 01:01:05 -0000
From: serge@...
Subject: Re: ev_update: replacing 140hp V6 w/201hp?

... regarding the increased hp engine, you're
really just trying to find a way to break you EVC land
speed record, right?

Which brings up the question, just how fast has everyone gone in their
EV/EVCs? 90? 100? 110? Faster?

(any numbers provided would be assumed to have been reached on a
closed course, of course).

Serge
2001 EVC "Beluga" (100MPH)

Az
--
AH#56

----- Original Message -----
From: <ev_update@...>
To: <ev_update@...>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 9:43 PM
Subject: [ev_update] Digest Number 1108

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Re: Hitch carriers
From: gself@...
2. Re: Re: Hitch carriers
From: John Waterman <jwwaterman@...>
3. Re: Maaco or Earl Scheib
From: "Donald Hector" <dhec@...>
4. install pollen filter on a 93
From: "Christian R." <drz400@...>
5. Re: Maaco or Earl Scheib
From: Tomas Jones <tomasjones@...>
6. Re: Re: 93 EV-High mileage potential?
From: "Donald Hector" <dhec@...>
7. Re: Maaco or Earl Scheib
From: Sklashley@...
8. Re: install pollen filter on a 93
From: "Christian R." <drz400@...>
9. Re: Re: Belly pan
From: "Donald Hector" <dhec@...>
10. Belly Pan/Oil Change
From: aberns@...
11. Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change
From: kunsteins@...
12. Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change
From: "Donald " <gibbonsnc@...>
13. Re: Maaco or Earl Scheib
From: "Don & Karin Thompson" <kdthomp@...>
14. Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change
From: sanae@...
15. Re: Hitch carriers
From: gself@...
16. Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change
From: Baldy <baldy@...>
17. belly pan
From: "Donald Hector" <dhec@...>
18. ev_update: replacing 140hp V6 w/201hp?
From: plthe@...
19. Re: Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change
From: "Madeleine Dewar" <madewar@...>
20. Re: Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change
From: Baldy <baldy@...>
21. Re: Maaco or Earl Scheib
From: jander14@...
22. Re: ev_update: replacing 140hp V6 w/201hp?
From: Larry Schellhase <schellhase@...>
23. Re: ev_update: replacing 140hp V6 w/201hp?
From: serge@...
24. RE: Re: Overheating - HELP !! FIXED
From: "IronWood Designs" <zawalick@...>
25. RE: Maaco or Earl Scheib
From: "IronWood Designs" <zawalick@...>

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Message: 1
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 20:55:01 -0000
From: gself@...
Subject: Re: Hitch carriers

I also do weight & Balance calculations when flying - strictly VFR
stuff. I worried about the extra load being placed on the rear
tires. As you know, adding weight behind the rear wheels not only
adds that weight but also moves some of the load from the front tires
to the rear tires. Each individual EVC tire is being run very near
their design load limits.

I guess I worry too much. That may be due to the fact that I also
own a Ford Explorer!!!

________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 2
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 15:32:30 -0600
From: John Waterman <jwwaterman@...>
Subject: Re: Re: Hitch carriers

I asked Marty about this and he said that the normal weight distribution
of front engine vehicles is about 60/40. His point is that the
additional weight (which is maximum 200 lbs and for me probably closer
to 100) is that having the weight in the back with a somewhat long
moment the weight distribution of the vehicle more closely approaches
50/50.
John

gself@... wrote:

I also do weight & Balance calculations when flying - strictly VFR
stuff. I worried about the extra load being placed on the rear
tires. As you know, adding weight behind the rear wheels not only
adds that weight but also moves some of the load from the front tires
to the rear tires. Each individual EVC tire is being run very near
their design load limits.

I guess I worry too much. That may be due to the fact that I also
own a Ford Explorer!!!

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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 17:36:47 -0400
From: "Donald Hector" <dhec@...>
Subject: Re: Maaco or Earl Scheib

i repainted my Jamaican blue 92 Caribbean camper green instead . changing
body color also requires
painting the inside areas where doors, hood and hatch close . some of these
areas require careful preparation or paint
will flake off . i'd find a shop willing to properly strip and prepare the
vehicle for a decent job . some budget paint jobs
ignor sanding where it's too difficult .
years ago i had my jetta repainted a different color , i found an
independant shop which let me completely strip
and dewax the vehicle myself in his shop before they sanded it . i pulled
everything ,doors , hood, trunk lid , etc so every opening could be
painted the new color , it looked great when done and cost me $1000.00 cdn.
since then i've purchaced a compressor and paint gun and now repaint my own
vehicles.

don
-----Original Message-----
From: carlton_john@... <carlton_john@...>
To: ev_update@... <ev_update@...>
Date: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 4:07 PM
Subject: [ev_update] Maaco or Earl Scheib

To the horror of many I imagine, I'm thinking of painting my '93 EV
Weekender at Maaco or Earl Scheib. I'm not keen on its current teal
blue and am considering a dark blue color.

Has anyone painted their EVs at Maaco or Earl Scheib? And if so,
what were the results? The only reason I'm considering it is $$. A
really good paint job will cost me $3k to $4.5k while I can get a
(hopefully) decent paint job at either Maaco or Earl Scheib for about
$1k.

Please share your experiences or thoughts.

Thanks,
John





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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:41:29 -0700
From: "Christian R." <drz400@...>
Subject: install pollen filter on a 93

Hello,
Is it possible to install a pollen filter on a 93 eurovan ?

I want to order 2 items (cup holder, plug kit), is shipping now ok to CA Bay
Area ?

Thanks
christian

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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:44:34 -0700
From: Tomas Jones <tomasjones@...>
Subject: Re: Maaco or Earl Scheib

I still remember the Earl Scheib ads from when I was a kid in So. California

"I'll paint any car for $29.95"

Cheers, Tomas

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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 17:51:29 -0400
From: "Donald Hector" <dhec@...>
Subject: Re: Re: 93 EV-High mileage potential?

it maybe a good idea for those running their ev's without functioning guages
. to get them fixed so that a
leak doesn't go unnoticed . we blew the block to oil cooler hose last winter
and a working guage may save
an engine from an early demise.

don
-----Original Message-----
From: Sklashley@... <Sklashley@...>
To: ev_update@... <ev_update@...>
Date: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 4:03 PM
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Re: 93 EV-High mileage potential?

It may be possible that the early demise of the EV 5cyl is related to the
failure of cooling system fans or coolant leaks.

These seem to be weak points with the '92 - '95 EVs. If you don't keep

ahead

of the fan resistors, temp sensors and relays, and the T fittings and

coolant

hoses, you could have overheating problems that could easily destroy the
engines.

I have had very good luck with my '93 which is now pushing 160K. I just
replaced the blower motor this past weekend, and the T fitting on the block
for the second time.

Steve Lashley
SKL Enterprises Inc.

636-797-9015
636-789-2127 fax



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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 17:49:55 EDT
From: Sklashley@...
Subject: Re: Maaco or Earl Scheib

Find your shop carefully. Not all Maaco or Earl Scheibs are the same.

This past Spring Bosch Power Tools contracted with Maaco to have all of
their
salesman's vehicles painted Bosch blue. The salesman picked up their
vehicle
at a local dealer and then took it to one of the local Maaco shops.

I got a chance to see some of the paint jobs from different Maaco locations.
None of them were even close to being acceptable. Paint runs, overspray,
areas missed around the bumpers or under the sides. Most of the cars had to
be repainted. Some more than twice.

After the first couple of weeks, Bosch stopped the program and decided to
buy
the closest dark blue new vehicles they could get.

Steve Lashley
SKL Enterprises Inc.

636-797-9015
636-789-2127 fax

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________________________________________________________________________

Message: 8
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:52:08 -0700
From: "Christian R." <drz400@...>
Subject: Re: install pollen filter on a 93

Please forget this message,

----- Original Message -----
From: "Christian R." <drz400@...>
To: <ev_update@...>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 2:41 PM
Subject: [ev_update] install pollen filter on a 93

Hello,
Is it possible to install a pollen filter on a 93 eurovan ?

I want to order 2 items (cup holder, plug kit), is shipping now ok to CA

Bay

Area ?

Thanks
christian

____________________________________________________________________________
__

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vos emails depuis un navigateur, en POP3, sur Minitel, sur le WAP...







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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 17:53:02 -0400
From: "Donald Hector" <dhec@...>
Subject: Re: Re: Belly pan

i've got 3 belly pans stacked up in the backyard !

don
-----Original Message-----
From: prousseau@... <prousseau@...>
To: ev_update@... <ev_update@...>
Date: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 4:54 PM
Subject: [ev_update] Re: Belly pan

While I'm posting, here's another 2 cents. I hate removing the belly
pan and hate the fact I can't see anything, "watch" and understand
my engine with it on. Having the light come from the bottom allows
for better visual inspect from the top and gives bottom visisbility
as well. I've been running 10000 miles without it, so far so good.

Paul

--- In ev_update@y..., "Michael G. McCarthy" <mgmccarthy@c...> wrote:

All other things being equal it would be better to
operate in the range when the thermostat is just
coming into full open then running just under the fan
temp switch point.

Don,

Even granting that the ideal temp range is a range where the

thermostat is

just opening (and I don't know what evidence there is for that) and

where

the fans accordingly should hardly ever turn on except when running

the A/C,

you are arguing that the hood/grill/bellypan is designed as a

coordinated

system in such a way to steadily evacuate air from the engine

compartment by

pulling it through the radiators such that the fans are NOT really

needed,

thereby keeping temps at an optimized lower-than-what-trips-the-

fans AND

high-enough-to-open-the-thermostat range. I follow your logic, but

I don't

believe the pan is part of a system that sophisticated and

optimized around

keeping the fans off. Why bother? Just run the fans.

I think instead that the pan is more simply part of a system

designed to

minimize the costs associated with weatherproofing and protecting

vulnerable

underhood components, and that's very important in highly

electronic cars

with lots of sensors, wiring and fittings. Likewise, costs are

reduced

because the pan forms a physical shield that protects components,

wiring and

plumbing thereby eliminating the need to engineer all those things

out of

harm's way, or make tem impact resistant. Is the pan also

engineered to be

part of a venturi-style cooling system that's optimize for an

idealized temp

range lower than the temp range that trips the fans? I highly

doubt it.

Could be, but I just don't think so.


----------
From: "Donald " <gibbonsnc@y...>
To: ev_update@y...
Subject: [ev_update] Re: Belly pan
Date: Tue, Sep 18, 2001, 12:30 PM


I was not thinking so much about the fans as I was about the coolant
temps being lower.

Look at it this way: If you have all other things equal (engine
speed, ground/air speed, grade of road) more air thru the radiator
will give you lower coolant temps.

I don't have my book with me right now but there are two temp ranges
here: Fan switch & thermostat setting. Its clear that no matter what
the ground/air speed the fan will come on when the coolant gets hot
enough. But there is a gap between when the thermostat is fully open
and when the fans come on. All other things being equal it would be
better to operate in the range when the thermostat is just coming
into full open then running just under the fan temp switch point.



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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 22:23:44 -0000
From: aberns@...
Subject: Belly Pan/Oil Change

Since it sounds like the opinions on the effects of removing the
belly pan are mixed--what are the thoughts on cutting a whole in the
belly pan to allow for easier oil changes? Has anyone done this?

________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 11
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 23:00:40 -0000
From: kunsteins@...
Subject: Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change

--- In ev_update@y..., aberns@m... wrote:

Since it sounds like the opinions on the effects of removing the
belly pan are mixed--what are the thoughts on cutting a whole in

the

belly pan to allow for easier oil changes? Has anyone done this?

I had a mechanic cut an access opening on my 95 EVC, then the same
procedure on my 97 EVC.
Now, my 2001 EVC comes with an access opening precut - almost exactly
as my old 97 EVC.

Kunio

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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 23:11:52 -0000
From: "Donald " <gibbonsnc@...>
Subject: Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change

--- In ev_update@y..., aberns@m... wrote:

Since it sounds like the opinions on the effects of removing the
belly pan are mixed--what are the thoughts on cutting a whole in

the

belly pan to allow for easier oil changes? Has anyone done this?

I have said this before: Its a very bad idea.

And it has nothing to do with cooling.

The only time anyone gets to see your engine/transmission is when the
cover is off during an oil change. If you have cut a hole the cover
does not to be removed and no one gets to inspect anything on the
engine. Untill it breaks or leaks.

There are lots of coolant hoses and fuel lines and rubber boots that
you can get a good look at while the oil is draining.

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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 19:17:38 -0400
From: "Don & Karin Thompson" <kdthomp@...>
Subject: Re: Maaco or Earl Scheib

----- Original Message -----
From: <carlton_john@...>
To: <ev_update@...>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 4:06 PM
Subject: [ev_update] Maaco or Earl Scheib

To the horror of many I imagine, I'm thinking of painting my '93 EV
Weekender at Maaco or Earl Scheib. I'm not keen on its current teal

snip

Please share your experiences or thoughts.

Thanks,
John

I had a Maaco job done on my "93 and it was a BIG waste of money. In
retrospect, I should have paid a good body shop to work on the seam rust and
NOT to change colors.

Don Thompson

ex '93 GL, now '01 MV

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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 23:27:56 -0000
From: sanae@...
Subject: Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change

While I agree with Don on not removing the pan at all is a bad thing,
I understand the need to be able to do a quick oil change...

Do this, after cutting the "hole", don't throw the "hole" piece
away. Rather, attach a hinge on one side and a catch on the other so
you can open and close the "hole" for those quick oil changes.

At least once a year, you ought to pull the pan and check everything.

Jerry

--- In ev_update@y..., aberns@m... wrote:

Since it sounds like the opinions on the effects of removing the
belly pan are mixed--what are the thoughts on cutting a whole in

the

belly pan to allow for easier oil changes? Has anyone done this?

________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 15
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 23:50:50 -0000
From: gself@...
Subject: Re: Hitch carriers

That's good to know. I was hoping to add something like that for our
6-month trip around the U.S. planned for next year[+1?]. We know we
did not want a trailer because the extra wheels come with speed limit
restrictions in some states.

Thanks for the info.
. . . Gary

--- In ev_update@y..., John Waterman <jwwaterman@w...> wrote:

I asked Marty about this and he said that the normal weight

distribution

of front engine vehicles is about 60/40. His point is that the
additional weight (which is maximum 200 lbs and for me probably

closer

to 100) is that having the weight in the back with a somewhat long
moment the weight distribution of the vehicle more closely

approaches

50/50.
John

gself@j... wrote:

I also do weight & Balance calculations when flying - strictly VFR
stuff. I worried about the extra load being placed on the rear
tires. As you know, adding weight behind the rear wheels not only
adds that weight but also moves some of the load from the front

tires

to the rear tires. Each individual EVC tire is being run very

near

their design load limits.

I guess I worry too much. That may be due to the fact that I also
own a Ford Explorer!!!

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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 16:51:20 -0700
From: Baldy <baldy@...>
Subject: Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change

At 10:23 PM 9/18/2001 +0000, aberns@... wrote:

Since it sounds like the opinions on the effects of removing the
belly pan are mixed--what are the thoughts on cutting a whole in the
belly pan to allow for easier oil changes? Has anyone done this?

Go here:



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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 20:25:41 -0400
From: "Donald Hector" <dhec@...>
Subject: belly pan

i kind of worry about the pan soaking up a telltale leak before it's noticed
in time. the absence of a pan allows me
to peek under more often than every oil change. maybe if the sound pad was
removed and the inside of the pan
painted bright white leaks could be spotted. my tranporter's 1st owner
didn't notice an oil leak that soaked and softened
the main timing belt . it stripped teeth and a piston punched open valves
into the head.

don

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Message: 18
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 00:38:51 -0000
From: plthe@...
Subject: ev_update: replacing 140hp V6 w/201hp?

My wife rear-ended an Econoline, thus attacking its bumper with our
engine. She wasn't hurt other than having a sore neck for a few days,
but in addition to extensive nose damge, the body shop tells me one
of the engine mounts sheared off the block. First time he'd seen such
a thing in thirty years of body shop work, he said.

I assume the labor cost of putting all the existing engine parts on a
new block would equal the cost of just swapping in the new 201hp
engine, which the local dealer tells me would probably work fine with
the rest of the van.

Does anyone know if the 201hp engine can swap in without requiring
mods?

Also, my mechanic tells me the insurance companies just want to pay
for broken parts and labor, even if the cost = a new engine. Anyone
know about that? We're with Farmer's.

BTW thus far Farmer's has been good to us about this.

BTW BTW one of the tables was set up at the time of the crash, and it
apparently broke the leg in some way.

Lee Th
97 EVC
Palo Alto, CA

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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 19:45:39 -0500
From: "Madeleine Dewar" <madewar@...>
Subject: Re: Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change

"my 2001 EVC comes with an access opening precut - almost exactly as my old
97 EVC."

Is this simply a hole or is it a hole with a covering?

Peace, Love and Serenity,
Madeleine
----- Original Message -----
From: kunsteins@...
To: ev_update@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 6:00 PM
Subject: [ev_update] Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change

--- In ev_update@y..., aberns@m... wrote:
> Since it sounds like the opinions on the effects of removing the
> belly pan are mixed--what are the thoughts on cutting a whole in
the
> belly pan to allow for easier oil changes? Has anyone done this?

I had a mechanic cut an access opening on my 95 EVC, then the same
procedure on my 97 EVC.
Now, my 2001 EVC comes with an access opening precut - almost exactly
as my old 97 EVC.

Kunio

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 20
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 16:53:05 -0700
From: Baldy <baldy@...>
Subject: Re: Re: Belly Pan/Oil Change

At 11:11 PM 9/18/2001 +0000, Donald wrote:

--- In ev_update@y..., aberns@m... wrote:

Since it sounds like the opinions on the effects of removing the
belly pan are mixed--what are the thoughts on cutting a whole in

the

belly pan to allow for easier oil changes? Has anyone done this?

I have said this before: Its a very bad idea.

Its such a bad idea that VW decided to do it on the later production dates
of 2000 and all 2001. So much for that theory.

Baldy

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________________________________________________________________________

Message: 21
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 00:52:10 -0000
From: jander14@...
Subject: Re: Maaco or Earl Scheib

--- In ev_update@y..., Sklashley@a... wrote:

Find your shop carefully. Not all Maaco or Earl Scheibs are the

same.

The main thing about any cheapo paint job is lack of proper prep
folks. I've said this many times on Vanagon over the years, it is
prep time you pay for, spraying a car is a joke, but the difference
between $200, $1000, $5000 jobs is almost all in the prep and some in
the materials themselves. I've shot $1100 in materials alone on a
friends '73 Vette, if you counted my time it would have pushed a
$6000 job most likely. The good news is YOU CAN MAKE THE DIFFERENCE
to a great extent all by yourself. For anyone interested more go
look in the vanagon archives but my short form is this.

1. Wash the van entirely with hot water and a little TSP, DON'T
use "car wash" that doesn't remove wax you want to remove it. Rinse
real well, hot water is great again.
2. Go by a can of real auto paint prep degreaser, PPG AcyliClean is
great but so are cheapo things from Autozone or a budget paint supply
house. Buy a pack of 50 red shop towels at SAMS wash them 2 times in
detergent and bleach, once in just water, dry. Use MANY of those
towels to degrease, one wet, follow with one dry, change the dry
often, use about 10 towels for the van.
3. Now do any body work you want to do, fill pinholes, spot prime,
whatever I'm not getting into that.
4. MOST IMPORTANT TIP, scrub the entire van now with 400-600ish wet
dry done wet OR easier and better with a relatively coarse/medium
painters "scotch bright" pad from an auto paint shop, you will need a
few. If you can't find em, a regular new green dishwashing pad will
do but breaks down faster. Scrub it all, all the seams, nooks,
crannies, flats, etc. Use the wet dry to featheredge primer you put
on, level spot glazing putty, etc but scrub it all with the abrasive
pad. By coarse I mean these are still like effective 400 grit or so.
5. Wash van with a little TSP in hot water, rinse many times.
6. Degrease van again with degreaser.
7. For the ultimate take thin wire (a single strand of telephone wire
is great) and tuck it underneath the edge of all the rubber seals on
all the windows with a broken popsickle stick or whatever so it lifts
up the edge of the rubber. Then YOU apply good masking tape and wrap
it just over the edge of the now lifted rubber. You should tape the
entire van yourself in fact for a good job, or at least for the job
you deserve because you did it if using a real cheapo place.
8. Take it to Scheib and give em $200 or whatever.

All said this will cost you maybe $50 in stuff (less likely) and will
make the job infinitely better looking, and lasting. The wire under
the rubber trick is exceptionally good as paint gets wicked a hair
under the rubber, you have no masking marks, the rubber covers back
down. The results of that are amazing I've done panel repairs where
you couldn't tell around the windows it looks so perfect. I don't
like any "professional" who doesn't do this on a $1000+ job. Another
good tip find a foam rubber "WonderBlock" to sand with, lasts in the
water for wet sanding and is comfortable to use. Do this and you can
turn a $200 job into a $1000 for about a days work. Well worth the
time. The Scheib guy can probably spray a nice finish well enough he
does it all day long, and the paint probably will last 5+ years if
cared for but the details make the job.

John
jander14@...

________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 22
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 17:53:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Larry Schellhase <schellhase@...>
Subject: Re: ev_update: replacing 140hp V6 w/201hp?

Lee, I am glad to hear Phyl is OK, too bad about the
accident. But, regarding the increased hp engine, you're
really just trying to find a way to break you EVC land
speed record, right?

Larry

--- plthe@... wrote:

My wife rear-ended an Econoline, thus attacking its
bumper with our
engine. She wasn't hurt other than having a sore neck for
a few days,
but in addition to extensive nose damge, the body shop
tells me one
of the engine mounts sheared off the block. First time
he'd seen such
a thing in thirty years of body shop work, he said.

I assume the labor cost of putting all the existing
engine parts on a
new block would equal the cost of just swapping in the
new 201hp
engine, which the local dealer tells me would probably
work fine with
the rest of the van.

Does anyone know if the 201hp engine can swap in without
requiring
mods?

Also, my mechanic tells me the insurance companies just
want to pay
for broken parts and labor, even if the cost = a new
engine. Anyone
know about that? We're with Farmer's.

BTW thus far Farmer's has been good to us about this.

BTW BTW one of the tables was set up at the time of the
crash, and it
apparently broke the leg in some way.

Lee Th
97 EVC
Palo Alto, CA




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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2001 01:01:05 -0000
From: serge@...
Subject: Re: ev_update: replacing 140hp V6 w/201hp?

... regarding the increased hp engine, you're
really just trying to find a way to break you EVC land
speed record, right?

Which brings up the question, just how fast has everyone gone in their
EV/EVCs? 90? 100? 110? Faster?

(any numbers provided would be assumed to have been reached on a
closed course, of course).

Serge
2001 EVC "Beluga" (100MPH)

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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 18:37:12 -0700
From: "IronWood Designs" <zawalick@...>
Subject: RE: Re: Overheating - HELP !! FIXED

James (et al.),

Be wary of these laser guided temperature sensors. If the emissivity
setting is not dialed in for the material you are measuring, it can be way
off. Also you can get totally unpredictable results when measuring
something shiny like chrome or aluminum. I'd trust the dash gauge first.

Stevie-z

-----Original Message-----
From: James 'JC' Gochoco [mailto:ieworld@...]
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 9:00 AM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Re: Overheating - HELP !! FIXED

[snip]

He checked also temp by using a Laser gun and gives
the reading. The reading from the Laser Gun is much
lower what we are getting from the Dashboard.

[snip]



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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 18:43:12 -0700
From: "IronWood Designs" <zawalick@...>
Subject: RE: Maaco or Earl Scheib

[snip]since then i've purchaced a compressor and paint gun and now repaint
my own
vehicles.

don
[snip]

Don,

What kind of equipment do you have? Do you have a booth? What about
purchasing the paint, out here in CA they are VERY careful about who they
sell to. Do you use HVLP conversion? Air drier? What kind of paint?
Clearcoat? This would be a good topic for groop.

Stevie-z



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Was the air conditioner running? If so this could have caused it to run
hot or overheat while driving. Was there any other problems in the
cooling system? Low coolant or slow leak? Loose belt? etc. Also you
will notice the coolant fans will cycle as the air conditioning cycles.
Press the button to the right (on 97 models) of the a/c switch and the
a/c compressor runs continiously. I havent checked my 97 EVC but on
other vehicles with 2 cooling fans only 1 runs to cool the engine as
necessary and both run with the a/c on.
___________________________________________________

[snip]since then i've purchaced a compressor and paint gun and now repaint
my own
vehicles.

don
[snip]

Don,

What kind of equipment do you have? Do you have a booth? What about
purchasing the paint, out here in CA they are VERY careful about who they
sell to. Do you use HVLP conversion? Air drier? What kind of paint?
Clearcoat? This would be a good topic for groop.

Stevie-z







Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

I have taken our '00 EVC in on 3 separate occasions to have the brakes

checked. Several months ago we came down a steep canyon grade and
apparently
glazed the pads. Since then we have not been able to eliminate a
grinding
sound. The dealer continues to tell me that the brakes are like new,
no wear
on the pads and the grinding is caused by the metal meeting metal.
They have
sanded down the pads 3 times and it lasts only a few days and then
they begin
grinding again. Anyone else had this problem? Dave Strong tells me
it
happens with all EV's, but I do not recall anyone mentioning this
since I
have been monitoring the list.

Jean Foulks
'00 EVC "Vana Yt"



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Thermostat could be the culprit as well.

--- In ev_update@y..., "Michael G. McCarthy" <mgmccarthy@c...> wrote:

Were your fans not working? Your fans should come on and prevent

your temps

from rising at all?

----------
From: The Barbers <thebarbers@s...>
To: ev_update@y...
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Re: Belly pan
Date: Wed, Sep 19, 2001, 1:24 PM


'94 EV GLS 2.4l diesel

When I was following fairly closely to a large truck on the highway,

the

temperature gauge rose considerably.

"Michael G. McCarthy" wrote:

Consider the fact that the fans will not push air thru
the radiator at any thing near a speed of 70 mph?

Don, I don't think that's the relevant point. If the radiator was

sitting

out in the open what you say would be true. But instead of being

located in

a place that receive a lot of convections flow, the radiators are

behind a

partially covered grill, and the the fans and their hardware are

bolted to

the back of the radiator, and just a few inches away there's the

engine, and

then the entire underhood space is partially sealed by the belly

pan.

Putting all these pieces together, I'd say that very little air

naturally

flows through the radiator even at freeway speeds; you need the

fans.

----------
From: "Donald " <gibbonsnc@y...>
To: ev_update@y...
Subject: [ev_update] Re: Belly pan
Date: Wed, Sep 19, 2001, 12:43 PM

--- In ev_update@y..., "IronWood Designs" <zawalick@p...> wrote:

I'm not sure where this information is from, but I can verify

that

the

system is not designed to run without the fans. When our fan

fuses

failed,

the van overheated while traveling at 70 mph on freeway traffic

(low engine

There is no reason at all for the fans to run while driving at

speed.

Consider the fact that the fans will not push air thru the

radiator

at any thing near a speed of 70 mph? And driving at 70 will push

much

more air thru then the fans ever could.