开云体育

Ingenious! Have you found a place to buy such a spring? And how to remove the lock handle when it continues to go up and down?

Did you ever solve this? My 2002 Eurovan MV locks are all going crazy, and they NEVER stop—i.e., do not lock in the down position, they just keep going!

Thanks I’ll try that! Domokos Hadnagy [email protected]> wrote:

I'm about to repair a driver's door harness with broken wires. May end up doing all 22 wires. Some you can see the cracked and exposed wire others-esp the smaller ones- nothing shows. Would adding

That's what I thought until I got some of the hose.? You can use the old end pieces and check valve.? Don't even need any clamps.? Just make sure you don't put a kink in the hose.? Cost is about

? It’s a molded hose with a check valve in it. I think the whole thing has to come as a single piece.. Attached is a more complete picture. Domokos Hadnagy

If it's the main line for the brake booster, you should be able to use Gates 27231 vacuum hose. -- Duane 05HD Rialta 227K Miles

The enclosed picture is the hose I am looking for . Can anyone help me.Number is by screwdriver. It is a five cylinder 1995 engine. Thanks Domokos

The SAI failed about 25 years ago, disconnected, passes Oregon sniffer rules. YMIV I suppose but looks optional…one less drag on the serpentine belt! 1995 Eurovan Camper Syncro 450000 miles and

Hi Radek, As far as I know, the secondary air injection system only operates for the first 60 or 90 seconds of a cold start. It pumps air into the exhaust flow to help the catalytic converter convert

Hello, I'm troubleshooting a 1995 Rialta with ACU engine for a friend who just bought it.? There were monkeys in the engine bay: loose wires, disconnected vacuum hoses, SAI check valve cut out,

Very nice to know.? Maybe I'll hold on to it them. But still, if anybody is in the market... lmk.

Can anybody confirm that this is the Intake Air Pre-Heater Hose? It is behind the engine and close the the exhaust manufold. I was inspecting, and I noticed that it appears to have a hole/rip in

Will do Domokos Hadnagy [email protected]> wrote:

If you do, please document it for everyone. My heater core is shot, and I'm considering dropping my dash. I have seen a video where a guy repaired his blender door without dropping it.? Not helpful

I believe the vacuum goes through the firewall at the same location as the heater hoses. On mine there is a barb connector that the vacuum hoses connect on either side of the firewall. Good luck

I was able to find TDC using the "rod in #1 plug hole" method. Then I re-adjusted the distributor to have the "pointer" at #1 spot on cap. Tried starting several times with no luck. Then adjusted

I think you’re right I was hoping not to have to drop the dash. Domokos Hadnagy <domokos.hadnagy@...> wrote:

I can move the blender door by hand by actuating the solenoid. The switch doesn’t actuate the solenoid so I’m fairly certain that there is no vacuum coming to it. It is such a rats nest under

Arev you sure the blender door haven't lost all their foam covering? I believe one can see where the vacuum diaphragm is on the blender box, can it be traced from there? May have to drop the dash to