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If the thermostat is bad, you can verify by jumpering the 2 wires together which will call for heat ll the time. If the furnace burns OK it's the thermostat. It would be interesting to modify the

David, I'm no expert, but when my window stopped working and someone here told me that a wire was broken between the door and the main part of the car, I thought that they were grasping at straws, but

Hello Gang, Is this a death sentence? I shift into Reverse to back out of the driveway and there is a 2-5 second hesitation before it slips into gear. I then shift into Drive and everything is fine.

On my 95, there was several l.e.d. indicator lights on the circuit board and a sticker to explain their function. That might be of help. If you can't find the sticker: green=start cycle red=valve open

Both my mirrors stopped working today. If I press up or down, I hear a "clunk" from both mirrors but no movement. If I select right or left, no sound or movement. Wish I had a schematic. David

I have 1997 EVC with a furnace that will not light. I have pulled it out and found that it is getting propane, not clogged and the fan is running like a top. I follow the startup procedures and get no

There is something wrong with this "good info" because it describes all 3 sensors as 4-pin sensors, which would mean 12 pins total, and that would mean 6 devices. But, as far as I can tell (I have a

Good info. And when replacing the sensor, if you replace the cap on the coolant reservoir (after relieving any residual pressure), the amount of coolant loss will be less that a cup. Bob W.

I know that's been done quite a few times because there are a number of fairly late model (2001?) EVCs running around in just that condition. Some Seattle-based coffee company turned EVCs into mobile

Something is wrong with Dave's summary. A 4-wire sensor for the after-run pump? Wny? All it needs is an on/off switch, which would mean two-wire, not four. Dave, are you looking at wiring diagrams or

And the new green d-shaped (oval) sensor did the trick. The dash gauge is now working. Another note, I think the AC was not working while this sensor was malfunctioning. It seems to be working now.

If Mike was still here he would tell you that you are wrong, and to expect further problems in the future. I on the other hand, with real world experience, would say that it is true that the solder

--- foosnews <foosnews@...> wrote: it's been my experience that fluid they usually will let you bring in since people often have preferences w/fluids. parts generally no, however... 1. I have

That may have been it. I deburred the rim of the bushing with a large screwdriver and now it's in and the van is running. Thanks for the help! Steve http://EuroCampers.com 636-337-7700 888-797-5994 -

Elden - Glad you corrected the problem. I used Red & Black electrical tape to recode my front & rear exposed DC cables. When I was into my converter & rear breaker panel, I did the same. Of course,

I've replaced that bushing -- it's a sintered metal designed to hold lubricant and it's brittle -- and it can be difficult to R&R. Are you sure the new bushing is in all right? Any little chip will

I spent about 3 hours removing and attempting to reinstall a rebuilt start on my '93 automatic. Removal wasn't difficult, but I'm having trouble getting the rebuilt in place. I replaced the bushing,

--- In ev_update@..., "jack_son_73" <jackr1@...> wrote: > > Elden- > > Are you aware of the Winnie house wiring code > used on ALL of their added 12V DC EVC circuits? > Black = HOT = Plus.

Thanks to all that replied. When I saw the original post, I assumed it was an owner of a legitimate copy, merely selling his used version. Guess the price was too good to be true. Best, JW

Elden- Are you aware of the Winnie house wiring code used on ALL of their added 12V DC EVC circuits? Black = HOT = Plus. Green = Negative or Ground. This as been mentioned here, but keeps getting