开云体育

She was following two trucks onto an expressway. The farthest suddenly jammed on its brakes--probably one of those failures of nerve while merging--and the truck behind jammed on its brakes. My wife was following the middle vehicle too close to stop in time and plowed into it. At least the hittee didn't whack the truck in front of it.

And yes this is the second time in a year, same driver. She's had a good accident record up till now. I've suggested maybe following a little farther back in future. The irony is that she's worried about me following too close many times.

I suppose I'll need to check out all the Winnie appliances...

Lee Thé
97 EVC (most of one at least)
Palo Alto, CA

I'm sorry to ear that,
Maybe you can check this with the bettle clinic in San Mateo.
He knows very well the Eurovan and he owns one.
Christian

Ken,

When I needed brakes Midas here in San Antonio, TX said they'd put them on for $75.00 if I got the rotors and pads since they didn't have them in stock. As it turned out I wasn't able to do that and ended up with the dealer (long story), but I know that was much cheaper than the dealer.

Peace, Love and Serenity,
Madeleine

About a year ago Sheepskin seat covers were a topic of conversation.
For those of you who installed them "What is your opinion after more
than a year of use?"

. . . Gary of Grass Valley

It's smart to flush the brakes, and any shop can do it. Use DOT 4 or 5, but
the shop will know this. Replace the rear shoes too, and the drums probably
will not need to be turned. One possible hangup is you might discover
rusted or leaking wheel cylinders that should be replaced (about $50 each,
one for each rear wheel) and that's one of those things where you won't know
you need them until you pull the drum, and then no one will have the
cylinders in stock. You can get cylinders from europarts-sd.com in a matter
of a few days if necessary. This is not a special tool job, so no reason
why VW needs to do it. Of course, you will have to find a shop with a
strong lift. You don't *need* a lift, but the job is a lot more
time-consuming without one.

----------
From: Ken & Deb <dackwood@...>
To: <ev_update@...>
Subject: [ev_update] brake replacement
Date: Tue, Sep 18, 2001, 10:04 PM


I'm starting to hear what sounds like a scraping when the rear brakes are
engaged lightly. The brakes are original, non-ABS, with 85,000 miles. Not
bad, right? Anyway, I suspect it's time for brake replacement and related
service. My main concern has to do with brake fluid. I had the system
flushed 20,000 miles ago at a VW dealer service. This should be standard
procedure for all VW's every 2 years as I understand from the owner's
manual. I'm leaning toward having an independent garage or a Midas shop
perform the service to hopefully save some money, but I worry about the
fluid. Is this stuff unique to VW? Should I stay with the VW brake fluid?
Should I have VW do the service and pay the price?

I'd really appreciate any opinions related to brakes.

Thanks,

Ken Wood
'93 EVMVWK
Wisconsin


Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<> .

I'm starting to hear what sounds like a scraping when the rear brakes are
engaged lightly. The brakes are original, non-ABS, with 85,000 miles. Not
bad, right? Anyway, I suspect it's time for brake replacement and related
service. My main concern has to do with brake fluid. I had the system
flushed 20,000 miles ago at a VW dealer service. This should be standard
procedure for all VW's every 2 years as I understand from the owner's
manual. I'm leaning toward having an independent garage or a Midas shop
perform the service to hopefully save some money, but I worry about the
fluid. Is this stuff unique to VW? Should I stay with the VW brake fluid?
Should I have VW do the service and pay the price?

I'd really appreciate any opinions related to brakes.

Thanks,

Ken Wood
'93 EVMVWK
Wisconsin

Lee.. glad to hear the Little Women was okay. I was just curious... she
wasn't putting on mascara or talking on a cell phone was she :)

Roy
99 EVC - with VERY NOISY and funny feeling brakes!

Isn't this the third recent accident reported by this list? Lee, glad to
know your wife is all right, but does she think the brakes weren't up to the
task of stopping in time, or was this accident unrelated to stopping power?

----------
From: plthe@...
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] ev_update: replacing 140hp V6 w/201hp?
Date: Tue, Sep 18, 2001, 8:38 PM


My wife rear-ended an Econoline, thus attacking its bumper with our
engine. She wasn't hurt other than having a sore neck for a few days,
but in addition to extensive nose damge, the body shop tells me one
of the engine mounts sheared off the block. First time he'd seen such
a thing in thirty years of body shop work, he said.

I assume the labor cost of putting all the existing engine parts on a
new block would equal the cost of just swapping in the new 201hp
engine, which the local dealer tells me would probably work fine with
the rest of the van.

Does anyone know if the 201hp engine can swap in without requiring
mods?

Also, my mechanic tells me the insurance companies just want to pay
for broken parts and labor, even if the cost = a new engine. Anyone
know about that? We're with Farmer's.

BTW thus far Farmer's has been good to us about this.

BTW BTW one of the tables was set up at the time of the crash, and it
apparently broke the leg in some way.

Lee Thé
97 EVC
Palo Alto, CA


Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<> .


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[snip]since then i've purchaced a compressor and paint gun and now repaint
my own
vehicles.

don
[snip]

Don,

What kind of equipment do you have? Do you have a booth? What about
purchasing the paint, out here in CA they are VERY careful about who they
sell to. Do you use HVLP conversion? Air drier? What kind of paint?
Clearcoat? This would be a good topic for groop.

Stevie-z

James (et al.),

Be wary of these laser guided temperature sensors. If the emissivity
setting is not dialed in for the material you are measuring, it can be way
off. Also you can get totally unpredictable results when measuring
something shiny like chrome or aluminum. I'd trust the dash gauge first.

Stevie-z

I have had two sets between 1995 and now and love them. I also bought them at
costco.
Storm Penton

In a message dated 9/18/01 11:06:33 PM, plthe@... writes:

<< i.e. 112mph, right? >>

Yea, but that's still pretty fast for a EuroVan. I only tried this twice in
areas that were straight enough and flat enough. The TDI was capable of
giving quite a bit more, but the Westfalia didn't feel safe at that speed.

Steve Lashley
SKL Enterprises Inc.

636-797-9015
636-789-2127 fax

In a message dated 9/18/01 7:08:49 PM, serge@... writes:

<< Which brings up the question, just how fast has everyone gone in their
EV/EVCs? 90? 100? 110? Faster?

(any numbers provided would be assumed to have been reached on a
closed course, of course). >>

A couple of weeks back I got my rented 2002 Westfalia TDI up to 180 on the
Autobahn.

Steve Lashley
SKL Enterprises Inc.

636-797-9015
636-789-2127 fax

... regarding the increased hp engine, you're
really just trying to find a way to break you EVC land
speed record, right?

Which brings up the question, just how fast has everyone gone in their
EV/EVCs? 90? 100? 110? Faster?

(any numbers provided would be assumed to have been reached on a
closed course, of course).

Serge
2001 EVC "Beluga" (100MPH)

Lee, I am glad to hear Phyl is OK, too bad about the
accident. But, regarding the increased hp engine, you're
really just trying to find a way to break you EVC land
speed record, right?

Larry

--- plthe@... wrote:

My wife rear-ended an Econoline, thus attacking its
bumper with our
engine. She wasn't hurt other than having a sore neck for
a few days,
but in addition to extensive nose damge, the body shop
tells me one
of the engine mounts sheared off the block. First time
he'd seen such
a thing in thirty years of body shop work, he said.

I assume the labor cost of putting all the existing
engine parts on a
new block would equal the cost of just swapping in the
new 201hp
engine, which the local dealer tells me would probably
work fine with
the rest of the van.

Does anyone know if the 201hp engine can swap in without
requiring
mods?

Also, my mechanic tells me the insurance companies just
want to pay
for broken parts and labor, even if the cost = a new
engine. Anyone
know about that? We're with Farmer's.

BTW thus far Farmer's has been good to us about this.

BTW BTW one of the tables was set up at the time of the
crash, and it
apparently broke the leg in some way.

Lee Th
97 EVC
Palo Alto, CA




Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

__________________________________________________
Terrorist Attacks on U.S. - How can you help?
Donate cash, emergency relief information

--- In ev_update@y..., Sklashley@a... wrote:

Find your shop carefully. Not all Maaco or Earl Scheibs are the

same.

The main thing about any cheapo paint job is lack of proper prep
folks. I've said this many times on Vanagon over the years, it is
prep time you pay for, spraying a car is a joke, but the difference
between $200, $1000, $5000 jobs is almost all in the prep and some in
the materials themselves. I've shot $1100 in materials alone on a
friends '73 Vette, if you counted my time it would have pushed a
$6000 job most likely. The good news is YOU CAN MAKE THE DIFFERENCE
to a great extent all by yourself. For anyone interested more go
look in the vanagon archives but my short form is this.

1. Wash the van entirely with hot water and a little TSP, DON'T
use "car wash" that doesn't remove wax you want to remove it. Rinse
real well, hot water is great again.
2. Go by a can of real auto paint prep degreaser, PPG AcyliClean is
great but so are cheapo things from Autozone or a budget paint supply
house. Buy a pack of 50 red shop towels at SAMS wash them 2 times in
detergent and bleach, once in just water, dry. Use MANY of those
towels to degrease, one wet, follow with one dry, change the dry
often, use about 10 towels for the van.
3. Now do any body work you want to do, fill pinholes, spot prime,
whatever I'm not getting into that.
4. MOST IMPORTANT TIP, scrub the entire van now with 400-600ish wet
dry done wet OR easier and better with a relatively coarse/medium
painters "scotch bright" pad from an auto paint shop, you will need a
few. If you can't find em, a regular new green dishwashing pad will
do but breaks down faster. Scrub it all, all the seams, nooks,
crannies, flats, etc. Use the wet dry to featheredge primer you put
on, level spot glazing putty, etc but scrub it all with the abrasive
pad. By coarse I mean these are still like effective 400 grit or so.
5. Wash van with a little TSP in hot water, rinse many times.
6. Degrease van again with degreaser.
7. For the ultimate take thin wire (a single strand of telephone wire
is great) and tuck it underneath the edge of all the rubber seals on
all the windows with a broken popsickle stick or whatever so it lifts
up the edge of the rubber. Then YOU apply good masking tape and wrap
it just over the edge of the now lifted rubber. You should tape the
entire van yourself in fact for a good job, or at least for the job
you deserve because you did it if using a real cheapo place.
8. Take it to Scheib and give em $200 or whatever.

All said this will cost you maybe $50 in stuff (less likely) and will
make the job infinitely better looking, and lasting. The wire under
the rubber trick is exceptionally good as paint gets wicked a hair
under the rubber, you have no masking marks, the rubber covers back
down. The results of that are amazing I've done panel repairs where
you couldn't tell around the windows it looks so perfect. I don't
like any "professional" who doesn't do this on a $1000+ job. Another
good tip find a foam rubber "WonderBlock" to sand with, lasts in the
water for wet sanding and is comfortable to use. Do this and you can
turn a $200 job into a $1000 for about a days work. Well worth the
time. The Scheib guy can probably spray a nice finish well enough he
does it all day long, and the paint probably will last 5+ years if
cared for but the details make the job.

John
jander14@...

"my 2001 EVC comes with an access opening precut - almost exactly as my old 97 EVC."

Is this simply a hole or is it a hole with a covering?


Peace, Love and Serenity,
Madeleine

My wife rear-ended an Econoline, thus attacking its bumper with our
engine. She wasn't hurt other than having a sore neck for a few days,
but in addition to extensive nose damge, the body shop tells me one
of the engine mounts sheared off the block. First time he'd seen such
a thing in thirty years of body shop work, he said.

I assume the labor cost of putting all the existing engine parts on a
new block would equal the cost of just swapping in the new 201hp
engine, which the local dealer tells me would probably work fine with
the rest of the van.

Does anyone know if the 201hp engine can swap in without requiring
mods?

Also, my mechanic tells me the insurance companies just want to pay
for broken parts and labor, even if the cost = a new engine. Anyone
know about that? We're with Farmer's.

BTW thus far Farmer's has been good to us about this.

BTW BTW one of the tables was set up at the time of the crash, and it
apparently broke the leg in some way.

Lee Thé
97 EVC
Palo Alto, CA

i kind of worry about the pan soaking up a telltale leak before it's noticed
in time. the absence of a pan allows me
to peek under more often than every oil change. maybe if the sound pad was
removed and the inside of the pan
painted bright white leaks could be spotted. my tranporter's 1st owner
didn't notice an oil leak that soaked and softened
the main timing belt . it stripped teeth and a piston punched open valves
into the head.

don

At 11:11 PM 9/18/2001 +0000, Donald wrote:

--- In ev_update@y..., aberns@m... wrote:

Since it sounds like the opinions on the effects of removing the
belly pan are mixed--what are the thoughts on cutting a whole in

the

belly pan to allow for easier oil changes? Has anyone done this?

I have said this before: Its a very bad idea.

Its such a bad idea that VW decided to do it on the later production dates of 2000 and all 2001. So much for that theory.

Baldy